Climbs 36
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces SW

Crag features

A rejuvinated mixed 'Trad' and 'Sport' sandstone crag.

Routes up to 20m in length.

Many aretes and corners.

A genuine Winter venue, because it faces south, gets any sunshine and does not seep.

Approach notes

About 7 miles north of M4 J28 on the A467.

Turn towards  'Cwmcarn Forest Drive' at the roundabout with the mountain bike art work.

First left takes you into Cwmcarn. At the Cwmcarn pub/post office, turn R into Park St. Then take the third L to a parking spot (not outside houses).

A footpath on the corner leads to a lane between garages, enter the woods and follow the left fork uphill (100m) into the quarry.

Northbound on Newport Road (Cwmcarn) turn right into Park Street. Take the second of two very minor lanes on the left. Park considerately before reaching the junction of Wood Street. Walk uphill on a mud track through the garages and trending leftwards very steeply uphill for 50m. Do not attempt to climb here unless you intend on bringing, a static rope, ascenders, gloves, crow bar, secateurs, hammer, pegs, a lot of time and a good life insurance policy.
alan rosier - 11/May/09
parked up and walked between the garages along the back of some houses access road (where the bins are kept etc). continued left and up (parrallel with the road below and wandered on. did not find the crag...must be quite small as all of the land seems to slope gradually. will try to find it in the winter again when the leaves clear away. will take some photos when i get there.
Drunken_Springbok - 10/May/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Left Wing
2 Endosperm 5a 6
3 Jiffy's Twitter Spat 6a+ 13
4 The Luddite HVS 5b 5
5 Archaeopteryx 6a * 7
6 Terrordactyl 6a+ ** 13
7 The Phill 6b 8
8 Pig in a Cage 5a 19
9 Tweaking Lats 5b * 17
10 Feeling Totally Hacked Off! 5c 10
11 Where there's A Killer E3 5c 1
12 Clint Yeastwood S 4a 5
  Central Promentory
14 Face the Rap E2 5c 2
15 Take the rap for beating the crap 6b ** 9
16 Rap Crap E3 5c 1
17 Nicks line 6b * 6
  Right Wing
19 The Yeast from the Undergrowth XS 1
20 Eyeful Tower 6b+ * 6
21 Polyphemus 6b+ * 2
22 Squeaking Bats E1 5b  
23 Red With Rage E3 5c  
24 Crimson 6c * 11
25 Auf Wiedersehen Mate 6b 2
26 Pus in my Boots 6a * 11
27 Yellow Tower 6b+ 3
28 Like It Then Lump It 6b+ * 4
29 Sour Grapes 5c 3
30 Cwmcarnage 6b * 5
31 Project B 1  
32 Afterlife V5+ 1
  Upper Tier
34 The Willy Whacker Project 1  
35 The Terrace Gardener 6a+ 2
36 Bramble Pitt Gets Hammered 6a+ 3
37 Corneal Abrasion 6b 3
38 Stumbling Block Project 6a+ 2
39 Lisa likes 67 6b 5
40 Drop knee at 67? 6b * 2

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer alan rosier