Climbs 141
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces N

Sunset at Rocky Valley © Simon Caldwell

Crag features

North Facing so get the right conditions or suffer the consequences.

This Ain't the quarry........

The Bouldering described in the TC guide is also described by a Topo which I have uploaded as a Photo (see below)

Approach notes

Rocky Valley lies approximately 800m W of the better-known Cow and Calf area. Car Park 100m from the Cow & Calf rocks. Bus and train to Ilkley approx. 3 km away. Allow 50 min for the walk.

Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
On 27/05/2013 a large block became detached on the lower section of 'The Flake Climb', trapping a climbers arm. Required the help of fire service and mountain rescue to extract him. The block was left held up by wedges inserted by the fire service. Three local notables did their BMC duty and have removed the block that had trapped the chap's arm. 5th June 2013.
peteJ23 - 08/Aug/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Number One Buttress
2 Cooper's Slab VD * 55
3 Private Line E3 6a  
4 Beeline HVS 5b *** 183
5 Beyond The Fringe E5 6a * 21
6 Wiseguys E8 6c **  
7 Little A Climb S 4a 77
8 Herbacious Border Variation
-
VS 4c 8
9 Dot's Cracks HS 4b 16
  Number Two Buttress
11 Stiction VS 4c 14
12 Stiction Chimney VD * 68
13 Nordwand E2 5b * 11
14 Scoop and Hole HVS 5a ** 17
15 Forgotten Arete E3 6a  
16 Superb Too Right E6 6c ** 1
17 Berserker E2 5b ** 15
18 Am I Brown?
-
E1 5b 3
19 The Strid HS 4b * 44
20 The Strid (Direct)
-
VS 4c 12
21 Flypaper f4 * 22
22 V Groove f4+ * 5
23 Ivor the Engine HVS 5c  
24 Jones The Steam
-
HVS 5b  
  Number Three Buttress
26 Pink, Ginger and Irish E3 5c  
27 Black Chimney VD * 37
28 Minigrip
-
E2 5b  
29 Three Slabs Route S 4a ** 317
30 Three Slabs Chimney
-
VD 3
31 Sod It f5 *  
32 Bogey Wall f4+ * 28
33 Hades HVS 5b * 21
34 Peach Melba
-
E6 6b  
35 The Flake Climb S 4a *** 368
36 Gremlin's Wall
-
E4 6b 1
37 Oak Tree Slab S 4b * 98
38 Oak Tree Crack S 4a 29
39 Crack And Wall
-
VS 4c 6
40 Spiral
-
S 4a * 9
  Number Four Buttress
42 Rockin' Valley Arete E5 6a *  
43 Sentry Box
-
S 4a * 112
44 Sentry Box (Direct) HS 4b * 71
45 Kestrel VS 4c * 38
46 My First Obsession E2 5b  
47 Shock Horror E6 6b ** 21
48 Rodney Mullen E9 6c ***  
49 Slide Zone E4 6a *  
50 Throstle's Nest Climb HS 4b 7
51 Twin Cracks HS 4b * 23
52 Somersault VS 4c ** 87
53 Long Chimney D ** 143
54 Long Chimney Direct HVD ** 65
55 The Link
-
S 4a 8
56 Walker's Hangover HVS 5a ** 74
57 Sound Box VS 4b 19
58 The Tremor Wall Finish
-
HVS 5b  
59 Tombstone Crack VS 4b * 13
60 La Petite S 1
  Number Five Buttress
62 Dale's Delight
-
MS 6
63 Blasphemy Crack HS 4b * 27
64 The Chute S 4b * 22
65 Gym Crack HVS 5b ** 35
66 Sylvia E3 5c * 13
67 Vestige E3 6a * 4
68 Sylveste E2 5b ** 50
69 Veste E1 5b * 35
70 Cat Like Thief E1 5c 1
71 Go Between E1 5c  
72 String Vest
-
HVS 5a * 4
73 Uncle Vester
-
E4 6a *  
74 Fat Flossin' E1 5c  
75 Little B Route
-
S 4a 8
76 Dionysius E3 6a  
77 Beetroot HVS 5b 4
  Number Six Buttress
79 Fear of a Failed Race
-
E5 6a 2
80 Catapult Crack HVS 4c * 9
81 Blue Meanies Tea Party E3 5c  
82 Sunburst Finish E5 6a *  
83 Ruby Parrot E3 5c * 1
84 Gutsie VS 4c 6
85 Stump Chimney VS 4b 6
86 Diamond Dogs E3 5c * 1
87 Blind Valley E3 5c *** 33
88 Blind Faith E4 6a **  
89 Countdown to Disaster E8 6b *** 3
90 Brush Crack S 4a 19
91 Arrowhead S 4a 15
92 Lady Mabel Route
-
VD 5
93 Taj Mahal VD 7
94 Windy Buttress VS 5a * 4
95 S Route
-
VD 9
96 The Ogre VS 4c * 14
97 The Centurion E5 6a  
98 Matchbox HS 4b * 12
99 Smog Wall
-
HS 4b 2
100 Smog Monster
-
E3 6b  
101 Overhanging Chockstone Crack D 7
102 Double Chockstone Crack S 4a 13
103 Spreading the Disease
-
E3 6b *  
104 Holly Tree Route D 54
105 Spread-eagle HS 4b ** 78
106 Eagle Eyed VS 4b ** 1
107 Bird of Prey
-
E1 5b 3
108 Bald Eagle E3 5c * 5
109 Illegitimate Crack VS 4c *** 176
110 Tricyclist
-
E2 6a  
111 Cyclist
-
E4 6a  
112 Rag Slab HVD 6
113 Too Far S 6a 1
114 A Girdle of Number Six Buttress S 1
  Bouldering
  YMC AREA ONE
  TC Area 1 - Clubber Lang
118 The Big Arete f4 * 1
119 The Biggish Slab f3+ ** 1
120 Clubber Lang f7B * 18
121 Roof Problem f7A 1
  TC Area 2 - Rocky Balboa
123 Thunderlips; The Ultimate Male f7B *** 9
124 Rocky f7A * 3
125 The Italian Stallion f7B * 4
126 Rocky Balboa
-
f7C 1
127 T.C. f7B+ *** 1
  YMC AREA TWO
  TC Area 3 - A Crimson Tear
130 A Crimson Tear
-
f7C+ 1
131 Sweet Dreams
-
f8A * 6
132 Sweet Dreams standing start f7B ** 15
  Tc Area 4 - Energy Follows Thought
134 Body Rocker
-
f7A 18
135 Energy Follows Thought
-
f7B 7
136 Ug V3 * 1
137 Hyborian V5 * 1
  TC Area 5 - Carnivore Roaming
139 Side Skirt f6C+ 1
140 Up the Skirt f7A+ 6
141 Dobbo's Traverse
-
f6B 2
142 You Jest V2 1
143 Scout Wall f6A * 1
144 Beyond Borders f7A 11
145 Fa Kin Su Pa
-
f6B 6
146 Bloc Beside Fa Kin Su Pa V3 1
147 Off Ledge V2 2
148 Easy Wall V1 * 2
149 The Flake
-
f5 1
150 Frank
-
f8A 3
151 Small Arete V0 1
152 A Carnivore Roaming
-
f7B ** 1
  TC Area 6 - Polar Haze
154 Polar Haze f7B *** 5
155 Apollo Creed
-
V6  
156 Ivan Drago
-
V8  
  Not Checked / Unknown

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