Climbs 156
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces N

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Sunset at Rocky Valley © Simon Caldwell

Crag features

North Facing so get the right conditions or suffer the consequences.

This Ain't the quarry........

The Bouldering described in the TC guide is also described by a Topo which I have uploaded as a Photo (see below)

Approach notes

Rocky Valley lies approximately 800m W of the better-known Cow and Calf area. Car Park 100m from the Cow & Calf rocks. Bus and train to Ilkley approx. 3 km away. Allow 50 min for the walk.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
On 27/05/2013 a large block became detached on the lower section of 'The Flake Climb', trapping a climbers arm. Required the help of fire service and mountain rescue to extract him. The block was left held up by wedges inserted by the fire service. Three local notables did their BMC duty and have removed the block that had trapped the chap's arm. 5th June 2013.
peteJ23 - 08/Aug/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Number One Buttress
2 Cooper's Slab VD * 55
3 Private Line E3 6a  
4 Beeline HVS 5b *** 198
5 Beyond The Fringe E5 6a * 23
6 Wiseguys E8 6c **  
7 Little A Climb S 4a 80
8 Herbacious Border Variation
-
VS 4c 9
9 Dot's Cracks HS 4b 17
  Number Two Buttress
11 Stiction VS 4c 16
12 Stiction Chimney VD * 79
13 Nordwand E2 5b * 11
14 Scoop and Hole HVS 5a ** 19
15 Forgotten Arete E3 6a  
16 Superb Too Right E6 6c ** 1
17 Berserker E2 5b ** 15
18 Am I Brown?
-
E1 5b 4
19 The Strid HS 4b * 52
20 The Strid (Direct)
-
VS 4c 15
21 Flypaper f4 * 23
22 V Groove f4+ * 5
23 Ivor the Engine HVS 5c  
24 Jones The Steam
-
HVS 5b  
  Number Three Buttress
26 Pink, Ginger and Irish E3 5c  
27 Black Chimney VD * 39
28 Minigrip
-
E2 5b  
29 Three Slabs Route S 4a ** 351
30 Three Slabs Chimney
-
VD 10
31 Sod It f5 * 1
32 Bogey Wall f4+ * 28
33 Hades HVS 5b * 21
34 Peach Melba
-
E6 6b  
35 The Flake Climb S 4a *** 395
36 Gremlin's Wall
-
E4 6b 2
37 Oak Tree Slab S 4b * 104
38 Oak Tree Crack S 4a 33
39 Crack And Wall
-
VS 4c 7
40 Spiral
-
S 4a * 9
  Number Four Buttress
42 Rockin' Valley Arete E5 6a *  
43 Sentry Box
-
S 4a * 127
44 Sentry Box (Direct) HS 4b * 91
45 Kestrel VS 4c * 47
46 My First Obsession E2 5b  
47 Shock Horror E6 6b ** 24
48 Rodney Mullen E9 6c ***  
49 Slide Zone E4 6a *  
50 Throstle's Nest Climb HS 4b 9
51 Twin Cracks HS 4b * 24
52 Somersault VS 4c ** 102
53 Long Chimney D ** 147
54 Long Chimney Direct HVD ** 76
55 The Link
-
S 4a 9
56 Walker's Hangover HVS 5a ** 78
57 Sound Box VS 4b 24
Climb name Grade
58 The Tremor Wall Finish
-
HVS 5b 1
59 Tombstone Crack VS 4b * 13
60 La Petite S 1
  Number Five Buttress
62 Dale's Delight
-
MS 6
63 Blasphemy Crack HS 4b * 28
64 The Chute S 4b * 23
65 Gym Crack HVS 5b ** 34
66 Sylvia E3 5c * 16
67 Vestige E3 6a * 4
68 Sylveste E2 5b ** 56
69 Veste E1 5b * 35
70 Cat Like Thief E1 5c 1
71 Go Between E1 5c  
72 String Vest
-
HVS 5a * 5
73 Uncle Vester
-
E4 6a *  
74 Fat Flossin' E1 5c  
75 Little B Route
-
S 4a 9
76 Dionysius E3 6a  
77 Beetroot HVS 5b 4
  Number Six Buttress
79 Fear of a Failed Race
-
E5 6a 2
80 Catapult Crack HVS 4c * 11
81 Blue Meanies Tea Party E3 5c  
82 Sunburst Finish E5 6a *  
83 Ruby Parrot E3 5c * 1
84 Gutsie VS 4c 6
85 Stump Chimney VS 4b 6
86 Diamond Dogs E3 5c * 1
87 Blind Valley E3 5c *** 25
88 Blind Faith E4 6a **  
89 Countdown to Disaster E8 6b *** 4
90 Brush Crack S 4a 20
91 Arrowhead S 4a 15
92 Lady Mabel Route
-
VD 5
93 Taj Mahal VD 7
94 Windy Buttress VS 5a * 4
95 S Route
-
VD 9
96 The Ogre VS 4c * 16
97 The Centurion E5 6a  
98 Matchbox HS 4b * 13
99 Smog Wall
-
HS 4b 2
100 Smog Monster
-
E3 6b  
101 Overhanging Chockstone Crack D 7
102 Double Chockstone Crack S 4a 13
103 Spreading the Disease
-
E3 6b *  
104 Holly Tree Route D 59
105 Spread-eagle HS 4b ** 99
106 Eagle Eyed VS 4b ** 1
107 Bird of Prey
-
E1 5b 3
108 Bald Eagle E3 5c * 6
109 Illegitimate Crack VS 4c *** 202
110 Tricyclist
-
E2 6a  
111 Cyclist
-
E4 6a  
112 Rag Slab HVD 6
113 Too Far S 6a 1
114 A Girdle of Number Six Buttress S 1
Climb name Grade
  Bouldering
116 The Arete *
-
f6A 1
117 The Big Slab *
-
f5+ 1
118 Backside *
-
f6A 1
119 The Green Dyno *
-
f6A 1
120 The Crack *
-
f5 1
  TC Area 1 - Clubber Lang
122 The Big Arete f4 * 1
123 The Biggish Slab f3+ ** 1
124 Clubber Lang f7B * 25
125 Roof Problem f7A 2
126 Tommy Gunn * V6 1
  TC Area 2 - Rocky Balboa
128 Thunderlips; The Ultimate Male f7B *** 17
129 Rocky f7A * 3
130 The Italian Stallion f7B * 4
131 Rocky Balboa
-
f7C 1
132 T.C. f7B+ *** 7
133 Lord Farquaad *
-
V8  
  YMC AREA TWO
  TC Area 3 - A Crimson Tear
136 A Crimson Tear
-
f7C+ 4
137 Sweet Dreams
-
f8A * 10
138 Sweet Dreams standing start f7B ** 18
139 The Drip Tray * V7  
  Tc Area 4 - Energy Follows Thought
141 Body Rocker
-
f7A 21
142 Energy Follows Thought
-
f7B 9
143 Ug V3 * 1
144 Hyborian V5 * 1
  TC Area 5 - Carnivore Roaming
146 Side Skirt f6C+ 1
147 Up the Skirt f7A+ 7
148 Dobbo's Traverse
-
f6B 4
149 You Jest V2 2
150 Scout Wall f6A * 1
151 Beyond Borders f7A 14
152 Fa Kin Su Pa
-
f6B 8
153 Bloc Beside Fa Kin Su Pa V3 1
154 Off Ledge V2 2
155 Easy Wall V1 * 2
156 The Flake
-
f5 1
157 Frank
-
f8A 6
158 Small Arete V0 1
159 A Carnivore Roaming
-
f7B ** 2
160 Carnivore Mantel *
-
V6 1
161 Voodoo *
-
V8 1
162 Dobbo Superdirect * f7A ** 3
163 Slabbage * f3+ 1
164 Black Acre * f6A+ * 1
  TC Area 6 - Polar Haze
166 Polar Haze f7B *** 6
167 Apollo Creed
-
V6  
168 Ivan Drago
-
V8  
169 The Jester *
-
V6 1
  Not Checked / Unknown
171 Will it stick? f7A 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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