Climbs 42
Rocktype Conglomerate
Altitude 248m a.s.l
Faces W

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Let your arms be as warm as the sun from up above....... © TT

Crag features

A mixture of both natural outcrops and larger quarried faces. Delightfully situated by Caban Coch dam on the eastern shore of the reservoir. Park at the Elan Valley Visitor centre (which is handy for the cafe and toilets) or otherwise cross the river via the Bailey bridge turn left and park at the side of the road. The crag is most easily reached from the EVVC by walking towards the dam, crossing the river by the bridge (beneath the dam) and striking up the short, steep, stepped footpath (less than 10 minutes). Alternatively, from the bailey bridge, follow the path into Cnwch Wood on the south side of the river and follow the zig-zag path to reach the crag in 15 minutes.

The crag contains a good variety of climbing (bouldering, trad and sport).

Approach notes

The crag is on CROW land and there are no access restrictions.

Lovely, well bolted low-to-mid grade sport climbs overlooking the reservoir. Nice place to stop on our way through mid-Wales. Must buy the new Mid-Wales guidebook.
Adam Perrett - 24/Jul/18
Hopefully the new guide will clarify the exact position of various routes. Quartz Wall is particularly difficult to understand. Abseil Wall is a well bolted short crag. No idea where the trad routes are. Worth a visit.
caradoc - 08/May/18
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  EVL Outcrop
2 Problem 1
-
f3+ 14
3 Problem 2
-
f2+ 16
4 Problem 3
-
f2 16
5 Problem 4
-
f2 16
  Bwtres Bach
7 Dirty Cow
-
E1 5b 5
8 Ready Mixed Left Hand E2 6a 3
9 Ready Mixed
-
HVS 4c * 11
10 Reddy Rubbed
-
HVS 5a 7
11 Elephants Never Forget
-
HVS 5b 8
12 Masters of Elan E2 5b 2
13 Y Cnwch Banana
-
VS 4b 10
14 The Scrattle Bag * HVS 5a 1
15 Low level traverse
-
f4 1
16 Saggy Trousers E2 5b * 1
Climb name Grade
17 Night Boat To Carno
-
HVS 5a 5
18 Nemandi
-
E1 5b * 5
19 Beyond Madness * E2 5c * 1
20 Broken Pinnacle
-
D 4
21 Heather Face
-
E1 5a 3
22 Ordinary Route
-
VD 4
  Abseil Wall
24 Pancho Villa
-
6a 26
25 Simon Bolivar
-
6b 10
26 Angelito
-
7b ** 5
27 Bring Me Sunshine
-
6b+ ** 8
28 Stranger On The Shore
-
6b 8
29 Corner Climb
-
S 10
30 Ffyd Mewn Ffrithiant
-
5c * 25
  Bwtres y Chwarel
32 Gadjo Dilo
-
5b 7
Climb name Grade
33 Cusan Haul
-
5a 11
34 Easy Rhaeadr
-
VD 3
35 Last Tango in Powys
-
5b 13
36 Good Girls Climb Grit 5b * 3
37 Children of a Lesser Gog
-
6a * 17
  Quartz Pebble Wall
39 Begin the Beguine
-
6a * 2
40 We've Only Just Begun
-
6a+ * 7
41 Serotonin Storm
-
7a 1
42 Atom Heart Mother
-
7a * 2
43 Dopamine Delirium
-
6c * 5
44 It Started With a Kiss
-
6a+ * 13
45 Nevermind
-
6a ** 22
  Obmas Buttress
47 Making Your Mind Up
-
5b 5
48 Bye, Bye, Baby
-
6a * 3
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Doug Kerr