Climbs 33
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces SW

Castle Rock 3 © ALF

Crag features

A small outcrop of oolitic limestone to about 30ft. Fingery climbing on small pockets; often top-roped. There is a good 70ft 6a traverse, although this and much of the rock is polished. Can be windswept! [Peter Bowen]

Approach notes

Non tidal (for the last 300 million yrs). Park near The Rising Sun Hotel off the B4632 Cheltenham to Winchcombe road. Walk up the lane to the common, the rock is 1/2 mile to the S.

Guidebooks

Out of print:
Wye Valley (1997)
Parking Update!!! After years of very occasional sensitive evening parking with no trouble at the foot of Castle Rock outcrop Bishops Cleeve, the Rangers are getting officious again. Would recommend that climbers park at designated Car Parks along B4632. Ranger was very ‘animated’ but we think we were on the wrong end of an earlier altercation that evening.
terragait - 04/Jul/14
Nice area and views. You can hear the steam train now and again in the distance. The boulders are pretty cool, short lines but with some imagination you can get some good overhand training in. Will be visiting this often, shame the summers over!
megamonkeyman - 08/Oct/13
Nice little crag with very polished elements! The traverse is the most worthwhile route by far.
KitRabbette - 08/Sep/13
Whats up with the grades for this crag? The symonds yat guidebook seems to have most of them right, but on here they are several grades overgraded!! Dislocation is never E1 5c!! And corner 2 is never 6a!
james.slater - 17/Jul/12
A surprisingly nice little crag. Lovely views and situation. The routes are quite agreeable - much better than i was expecting.
Mark Davies PK - 14/Jul/10
Quite a bit of surface rock has fallen over the winter & a lot of unstable bits are just about clinging on
morticiaskeeper - 14/Mar/10
I had a good few hours there found it to be an ok place for a quick climb. I found routes took decent protection rock was a little polished though. Great belay stakes all over and not bad top outs. I was with someone who wanted to get some practice in but I'd of probably just gone for some solos if I was on my own. Great belay stakes all over. Haven't got a clue what routes we climbed as I had no guide did a few really easy ones and a couple that felt quite challenging.
Wallm0nkey - 07/Oct/09
In the last Wye Valley that included Castle Rock AKA Cleeve Hill, it mentioned that you could park underneath the crag, just off the track. This is no longer the case, the Wardens are current putting notices on car windows and are talking about prosecuting consistent offenders. Shame that their note, doesn't give advice on where you are allowed to park!
Paul at work - 14/Jul/08
Next time I go up here in the summer, I will try and brush some of the loose limestone off the top that has built up to give a more clean working area. Cheers Ben
BEN FOXALL& MATT CLARKE - 11/May/06
Nice little crag, wasnt dodgey in anyway, found no real need for a helmet, loose stones at on the top which may fall while walking about setting anchors, great for lead climbing but very strenuous...many routes can be quite a challenge. I found it tough but great fun, most routes will take lots of gear.
mattjam - 22/Apr/06
if you are here for bouldering, leave the far end and go straight to the top! flat land all around for landing, not on a hill like the rest, might be windy
jamesblond0013 - 20/Feb/06
Good for top rope / number of differant routes and a number of ancor selections on top of cliff. Be aware to take about a couple of 6 - 7 m/ts of rope for the ancors. the spikes are set back a bit from the cliff edge. Enjoy
BEN FOXALL / MATT CLARKE - 02/Sep/05
Some great drytooling on lower cliffs, about ten minutes walk past and down. These cliffs are too blocky and loose too climb on but has some great little edges to train on with axes. Obviously avoid using tools on the main cliff!
Laubie - 16/Dec/04
the flake on the hvs (left hand end) is partly missing. hope that helps
chris - 03/Jul/04
although the rock is in places polised, its not dodgy at all, only the hs at the far left hand end is bad and it's only recently this has happened, semingly from overzealous toproping. watch out for a flake half way up that could cause seriouse damage to the belayer. the only route unprotectable is the E4, all the rest, though strenuous, will take adequate gear.
stu mac - 30/Jun/04
further right from castle rock on the small end outcrops is some good quality(no polish) bouldering up to 6b so far. The end outcrop has two good traverses starting at a two finger pocket moving left on sloping holds to the nose and a rockover move to the top(6a) or going even lower using a side pull under the roof and smears at 6b. Well worth a go if in the area!
dylan burgess - 01/Jun/04
The rock is soft and loose and top-roping is really the only way to protect yourself. Top-roping will inevitabley bring down loose rock and gravel from above, wearing a helmet is more than a good idea.
Richard Fox - 25/May/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Short Crack HS 4b 100
2 Little Arete HVS 5a 44
3 The Easy HS 4b 147
4 Easy Right
-
HS 4a 36
5 Corner 1 HVS 5b 83
6 Dislocation E1 5b * 88
7 Dislocated E2 6a 55
8 Eliminate 1 E2 6a * 25
9 Piton Route E3 5c * 17
10 Piton Direct E3 6a * 22
11 Corner Direct E4 6a *** 30
12 Corner 2 E3 6a * 16
13 No Name E3 5c 6
14 The Overhang E1 5b * 79
15 Cave E2 5c ** 58
16 Eliminate 2 E2 5c 12
17 Niche E2 6a 31
18 Eliminate 3 E2 5c 40
19 The Hand Jam HS 4a * 231
20 In Between HVS 5b 107
21 Middle Crack S 4a * 265
22 Eliminate 4 VS 5a ** 107
23 Right Crack S * 310
24 Black Wall E1 5b * 77
25 End Route
-
HVS 5a/b 28
26 The Girdle E1 5b * 11
27 The Traverse none 6a ** 22
  Black Rock
29 Worth a go f3+ * 1
30 Pass me a sausage Joe f3 1
31 Evidence of Shame f5+ * 1
  Cracked Arete
33 The Crack VD 14
34 Pea Pod VD 17
35 The Arete HS 4c 13

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