Climbs 100
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 350m a.s.l

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smallacombe © mca

Crag features

Limited climbing, excellent bouldering on the finest Moorland Granite. Solid and extremely rough. Everything from slabs to roofs. More details at http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DartmoorBouldering/Smallacombe/index.shtml

Approach notes

From Haytor head north after crossing the granite railway contour around the hillside until you reach the rocks [Kathryn Bromfield]

Special walk in with secluded quarry and waterlilies. We were the only ones there and had fun making up some of our own problems whilst deciphering javu.
Elle - 13/Jun/18
I went to Smallacombe and had a really good day today. Goto Javu before coming here to view detailed info on the crag. The crag is perched on the side of the rugged and remote Haytor Vale with fantastic views and not a soul in sight. I sought out P28 and Undercut Arete, both excellent hanging aretes. P52 (see Javu) was another great arete and I got close to the quality Smiler and will go back for it. There are many other fine little problems to go back for and I haven't even been around every area. A sublime days climbing!
ElArt - 08/Mar/11
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Summit Sector
2 Summit Area P1 V2 5c 17
3 Summit Area P2 V1 5c 41
4 Summit Area P3 V0- 20
5 Summit Area P4 V2 16
6 Summit Area P5 V3 12
7 Summit Area P7 V1 5c 39
8 Cave Wall V3 6a 83
9 Cave Wall Eliminate V4 6b ** 41
10 Summit Area P11 V0- 4a 58
11 Summit Area P13 V1 10
12 Summit Area P14 V3 7
13 Death Jug Mantle V1 5c * 51
14 Summit Area P15
-
V0- 4c * 62
15 Summit Area P16 V2 5c 34
16 Summit Area P17
-
V1 5c 37
17 Summit Area P18
-
V0- 4c 58
18 Summit Area P19 V0- 4c 45
19 Summit Area P20 V2 5c 41
20 Summit Area P21
-
V0 5c 27
21 Summit Area P22 V3 6a 16
22 Summit Area P23
-
V2 5c 20
23 Yorkshire Tea (23b) V5 ** 22
24 Summit Area P24
-
V2 5c 10
25 Summit Area P25
-
V1 5c 9
26 Binocuous Traverse V3 6a ** 5
27 Summit Area P27 V1 5b * 19
28 Summit Area P6 V5 1
29 Summit Area left of 3 * V2 5c *** 1
  Middle Slope Sector
31 Middle Slope Sector P28 V2 5c *** 12
Climb name Grade
32 Middle Slope Sector P29 V2 6a 1
33 Middle Slope Sector P31
-
V1 5b 5
34 Middle Slope Sector P33 V1 5a 13
35 Middle Slope Sector P35
-
V0- 4c 18
36 Middle Slope Sector P39
-
V0- 4c 26
37 Middle Slope Sector P40
-
V0- 4c 30
38 Middle Slope Sector P41 V1 5c 32
39 Middle Slope Sector P42
-
V1 5a 25
40 Middle Slope Sector P43 V1 4b 4
41 Unnamed V0 2
42 Undercut Arete V2 6a *** 29
43 Middle Slope Sector P47 V1 5b * 9
44 Middle Slope Sector P48
-
V0 4c 3
45 Smiler V3 ** 24
46 Hidden Arete V0 5b 16
47 Middle Slope Sector P50 V2 5c 1
48 Middle Slope Sector P51 V0 4c 2
49 Middle Slope Sector P53 V1 5c 1
50 Fox Hound (Middle Slope Sector P54) V6 * 3
51 Middle Slope Sector P55 V1 5c 3
52 Middle Slope Sector P56 V0 5a 3
53 Middle Slope Sector P57 V0- 4b 14
54 Middle slop sector P30 * V0 1
55 Middle slope sector prob 34 *
-
V1 5a 1
56 Middle slope sector prob 38 * VB 4
57 Middle Slope Sector P45 * V1 5c 3
58 Protection Sit Start * V3 1
  Lower Slope right
60 Slopey Traverse 2 V4 6b * 4
61 Shorter Slopey Traverse (Javu p59) V4 6b ** 6
62 Lower Slope Right P65 V3 6a ** 13
Climb name Grade
63 Blackbird Chain V7 * 1
64 Lower Slope Right P66 V4 ** 1
65 Lower Slope Right P67
-
V0- 4a 2
66 Korma V3 6a ** 9
67 Protection (Javu p73) V3 6a *** 18
  Lower Slope Left
69 Lower Slope Left P76
-
V2 5c 1
70 Lower Slope Left P82
-
V0 5a 1
71 Gems' in a Granite Setting
-
E5 6b **  
72 Lower Slope Left p91 V3 * 4
73 Bad Faith * f7A+ 1
  Upper Slope Routes Sector
75 Buzzard Start V1 5b ** 7
76 Buzzard HVS 5b 13
77 Buzzard Direct E1 5c  
78 Summer Haze V3 6a 20
79 Javu p101 V2 6a ** 10
80 Javu P102 V2 5c 5
81 Orphan
-
V4 6b ** 15
82 Street Child V9 1
83 Stray Waif V8+  
84 Oh Dude V5 6b *** 5
85 Day Tripper
-
V3 6a 2
86 GW Twat
-
V5 6b * 1
87 Small Acorn
-
V3 6a ** 5
88 Cliquot * V4 6a 1
89 Dead Sheep Crack * VS 4c 3
90 The Stitch * S 4b 5
91 Ragamuffin * V6 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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