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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 78
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 454m a.s.l
Faces W

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You must be firkin' mad! © Sean Kelly

Crag features

Some of the best and longest routes on Dartmoor, with rough granite feldspar giving rounded overhangs, flakes, breaks and cracks. Haytor will delight the sub-E1 climber, while Low Man offers more for those on E2 and above. Interrogation (E3) and Aviation (HVS/E1) stand out as the best routes of their respective grades on Dartmoor. A very popular spot to visit so don't expect solitude.

Approach notes

On the A38, if approaching from the N follow signs to Bovey Travey and then signposts to Haytor. From the S exit the A38 at Ashburton, then follow signs to Widecombe and Haytor. There is a car park below the main tor: follow the broad green track, which takes you to Haytor's W face. Low Man is to the SW (on your L).

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Good online guide here http://javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DartmoorRoutes/Haytor/index.shtml
Kafoozalem - 09/Jul/13
There is now an abseil point that someone has kindly placed at the top of Bridal Piton Slab. This makes what was a tricky descent much safer, so no excuses not to have a crack at the north face routes!
John_Warner - 15/Apr/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Hay Tor summit
-
summit 45
  Haytor North Face
3 Corner Slab
-
VD 16
4 Superdirect S 4a 21
5 Chimney & Direct
-
D 20
6 Half Nelson
-
S 4a 6
7 Canis VS 4c * 159
8 East Chimney M 52
9 Green Chimney S 15
10 Tunnel Chimney M 25
11 Diamond Sky E2 5b 9
12 Vandal and Ann HVS 5b *** 427
13 Central Chimney
-
D 145
14 Bridle Piton Slab D * 336
15 North Face Chimney VS 4b 31
16 West Chimney D 36
17 Direct Justice
-
E5 6b 7
18 Rough Justice E5 6a *** 19
19 Rough Diamond E4 6a *** 39
20 Glass Bead Game
-
E5 6a 3
21 Rough 'n' Ready
-
E6 6b 3
22 Frog's Failure E2 5b 11
23 Cobleigh's Chimney VD 88
24 Funky Gibbon
-
E3 5c 3
25 Saddle Rib VD 24
26 Grey Mare's Groove D 119
27 Bridle Flake VD 1
Climb name Grade
  Haytor West Face
29 Letterbox Wall VS 5b 233
30 Letterbox Wall / Hangover Combo E1 5b *** 374
31 Don't Stop Now E2 5c * 181
32 Don't Stop Now - Variation E1 5b * 17
33 Little Fish Eats Big Fish E3 6b 10
34 Rock Lobster E3 6b ** 34
35 Hangover E2 5c * 145
36 Hangover / Don't Stop Now Combo HVS 4c * 17
37 Zig Zag VD ** 1389
38 Zig Zag Direct HVS 5b * 32
39 Bulging Wall VD ** 1419
40 Bulging Wall Direct HS 4a * 92
41 Step Across D * 757
42 Haggis Left Hand HVS 5a * 12
43 Haggis E1 5b *** 633
44 D'Artagnan E1 5c * 220
45 Athos VD * 814
46 Aramis VS 4c ** 732
47 Accomplice to Murder E1 5b 34
48 Double Bubble
-
E1 6a 6
49 Unnamed D 5
  Lowman Tor
51 Crunchie E2 5c 1
52 Posidrive E4 5c 1
53 Left Hand Thread E2 5b 2
54 Screw VS 4c * 92
Climb name Grade
55 Thursday's Child
-
E5 6b ** 1
56 Fist and Buttock Clencher HVS 5c  
57 Honeymoon Corner S 4a * 502
58 Shacked Up
-
E1 5c 3
59 Outward Bound HVS 4c ** 902
60 The Flier E1 5c * 202
61 Raven Wing VS 4b ** 850
62 Raven Gully S ** 1196
63 Raven Direct VS 4c * 26
64 Interrogation E3 6a *** 173
65 Interrogation Superdirect
-
E5 6a *** 3
66 Aviation E1 5b *** 784
67 Aviation/Rhinoceros E2 5a, 5c *** 9
68 Bermuda Bill
-
E4 6a 1
69 Igneous Pig
-
E3 5c ** 21
70 Rhinoceros E2 5c ** 79
71 Rhinoceros/Aviator E2 5c, 5a 10
72 Die Laughing
-
E5 6c 1
73 The Camel
-
E6 6c 1
74 Blood Lust
-
E4 6b 4
75 Levitation VS 4b ** 787
76 Levitation Direct HVS 5b * 145
77 Levi
-
E1 5b 15
78 Nameless
-
VD 17
79 Capstan
-
VD 33
80 Low Man Girdle
-
E3 6a 6
81 Dehydration
-
E2 5c 3

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