Climbs 78
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 454m a.s.l
Faces W

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You must be firkin' mad! © Sean Kelly

Crag features

Some of the best and longest routes on Dartmoor, with rough granite feldspar giving rounded overhangs, flakes, breaks and cracks. Haytor will delight the sub-E1 climber, while Low Man offers more for those on E2 and above. Interrogation (E3) and Aviation (HVS/E1) stand out as the best routes of their respective grades on Dartmoor. A very popular spot to visit so don't expect solitude.

Approach notes

On the A38, if approaching from the N follow signs to Bovey Travey and then signposts to Haytor. From the S exit the A38 at Ashburton, then follow signs to Widecombe and Haytor. There is a car park below the main tor: follow the broad green track, which takes you to Haytor's W face. Low Man is to the SW (on your L).

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Good online guide here http://javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DartmoorRoutes/Haytor/index.shtml
Kafoozalem - 09/Jul/13
There is now an abseil point that someone has kindly placed at the top of Bridal Piton Slab. This makes what was a tricky descent much safer, so no excuses not to have a crack at the north face routes!
John_Warner - 15/Apr/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Hay Tor summit
-
summit 39
  Haytor North Face
3 Corner Slab
-
VD 15
4 Superdirect S 4a 18
5 Chimney & Direct
-
D 19
6 Half Nelson
-
S 4a 6
7 Canis VS 4c * 156
8 East Chimney M 51
9 Green Chimney S 15
10 Tunnel Chimney M 22
11 Diamond Sky E2 5b 9
12 Vandal and Ann HVS 5b *** 420
13 Central Chimney
-
D 143
14 Bridle Piton Slab D * 330
15 North Face Chimney VS 4b 30
16 West Chimney D 35
17 Direct Justice
-
E5 6b 7
18 Rough Justice E5 6a *** 19
19 Rough Diamond E4 6a *** 39
20 Glass Bead Game
-
E5 6a 3
21 Rough 'n' Ready
-
E6 6b 3
22 Frog's Failure E2 5b 11
23 Cobleigh's Chimney VD 81
24 Funky Gibbon
-
E3 5c 3
25 Saddle Rib VD 23
26 Grey Mare's Groove D 116
27 Bridle Flake VD 1
Climb name Grade
  Haytor West Face
29 Letterbox Wall VS 5b 228
30 Letterbox Wall / Hangover Combo E1 5b *** 358
31 Don't Stop Now E2 5c * 177
32 Don't Stop Now - Variation E1 5b * 15
33 Little Fish Eats Big Fish E3 6b 9
34 Rock Lobster E3 6b ** 34
35 Hangover E2 5c * 141
36 Hangover / Don't Stop Now Combo HVS 4c * 15
37 Zig Zag VD ** 1329
38 Zig Zag Direct HVS 5b * 27
39 Bulging Wall VD ** 1354
40 Bulging Wall Direct HS 4a * 85
41 Step Across D * 724
42 Haggis Left Hand HVS 5a * 12
43 Haggis E1 5b *** 613
44 D'Artagnan E1 5c * 217
45 Athos VD * 770
46 Aramis VS 4c ** 703
47 Accomplice to Murder E1 5b 34
48 Double Bubble
-
E1 6a 6
49 Unnamed D 5
  Lowman Tor
51 Crunchie E2 5c 1
52 Posidrive E4 5c 1
53 Left Hand Thread E2 5b 2
54 Screw VS 4c * 91
Climb name Grade
55 Thursday's Child
-
E5 6b ** 1
56 Fist and Buttock Clencher HVS 5c  
57 Honeymoon Corner S 4a * 483
58 Shacked Up
-
E1 5c 3
59 Outward Bound HVS 4c ** 870
60 The Flier E1 5c * 199
61 Raven Wing VS 4b ** 815
62 Raven Gully S ** 1155
63 Raven Direct VS 4c * 24
64 Interrogation E3 6a *** 162
65 Interrogation Superdirect
-
E5 6a *** 3
66 Aviation E1 5b *** 749
67 Aviation/Rhinoceros E2 5a, 5c *** 8
68 Bermuda Bill
-
E4 6a 1
69 Igneous Pig
-
E3 5c ** 21
70 Rhinoceros E2 5c ** 75
71 Rhinoceros/Aviator E2 5c, 5a 8
72 Die Laughing
-
E5 6c 1
73 The Camel
-
E6 6c 1
74 Blood Lust
-
E4 6b 4
75 Levitation VS 4b ** 755
76 Levitation Direct HVS 5b * 140
77 Levi
-
E1 5b 14
78 Nameless
-
VD 17
79 Capstan
-
VD 33
80 Low Man Girdle
-
E3 6a 6
81 Dehydration
-
E2 5c 3

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