UKC

Climbs 79
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 400m a.s.l
Faces W

You must be firkin' mad! © Sean Kelly

Crag features

Some of the best and longest routes on Dartmoor, with rough granite feldspar giving rounded overhangs, flakes, breaks and cracks. Haytor will delight the sub-E1 climber, while Low Man offers more for those on E2 and above. Interrogation (E3) and Aviation (HVS/E1) stand out as the best routes of their respective grades on Dartmoor. A very popular spot to visit so don't expect solitude.

Approach notes

On the A38, if approaching from the N follow signs to Bovey Travey and then signposts to Haytor. From the S exit the A38 at Ashburton, then follow signs to Widecombe and Haytor. There is a car park below the main tor: follow the broad green track, which takes you to Haytor's W face. Low Man is to the SW (on your L).

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Good online guide here http://javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DartmoorRoutes/Haytor/index.shtml
Kafoozalem - 09/Jul/13
There is now an abseil point that someone has kindly placed at the top of Bridal Piton Slab. This makes what was a tricky descent much safer, so no excuses not to have a crack at the north face routes!
John_Warner - 15/Apr/07
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Haytor North & East Faces
2 Corner Slab
-
VD 14
3 Superdirect S 4a 18
4 Chimney & Direct
-
D 19
5 Half Nelson
-
S 4a 6
6 Canis VS 4c * 149
7 East Chimney M 51
8 Green Chimney S 15
9 Tunnel Chimney M 21
10 Diamond Sky E2 5b 10
11 Vandal and Ann HVS 5b *** 401
12 Central Chimney
-
D 140
13 Bridle Piton Slab D * 324
14 North Face Chimney VS 4b 28
15 West Chimney D 35
16 Direct Justice
-
E5 6b 7
17 Rough Justice E5 6a *** 18
18 Rough Diamond E4 6a *** 36
19 Glass Bead Game
-
E5 6a 3
20 Rough 'n' Ready
-
E6 6b 3
21 Frog's Failure E2 5b 11
22 Cobleigh's Chimney VD 77
23 Funky Gibbon
-
E3 5c 3
24 Saddle Rib VD 23
25 Grey Mare's Groove D 108
26 Bridle Flake VD 1
  Haytor West (Main) Face
28 Letterbox Wall VS 5b 216
Climb name Grade
29 Letterbox Wall / Hangover Combo E1 5b *** 341
30 Don't Stop Now E2 5c * 171
31 Don't Stop Now - Variation E1 5b * 11
32 Little Fish Eats Big Fish E3 6b 9
33 Rock Lobster E3 6b ** 34
34 Hangover E2 5c * 140
35 Hangover / Don't Stop Now Combo HVS 4c * 14
36 Zig Zag VD ** 1274
37 Zig Zag Direct HVS 5b * 21
38 Bulging Wall VD ** 1289
39 Bulging Wall Direct HS 4a * 79
40 Step Across D * 694
41 Haggis Left Hand HVS 5a * 12
42 Haggis E1 5b *** 587
43 D'Artagnan E1 5c * 211
44 Athos VD * 741
45 Aramis VS 4c ** 675
46 Accomplice to Murder E1 5b 34
47 Double Bubble
-
E1 6a 6
48 Unnamed D 4
  Lowman Tor
50 Crunchie E2 5c 1
51 Posidrive E4 5c 1
52 Left Hand Thread E2 5b 2
53 Screw VS 4c * 85
54 Thursday's Child
-
E5 6b ** 1
55 Honeymoon Corner S 4a * 452
56 Shacked Up
-
E1 5c 2
Climb name Grade
57 Outward Bound HVS 4c ** 831
58 The Flier E1 5c * 191
59 Raven Wing VS 4b ** 780
60 Raven Gully S ** 1106
61 Raven Direct VS 4c * 21
62 Interrogation E3 6a *** 153
63 Interrogation Superdirect
-
E5 6a *** 3
64 Aviation E1 5b *** 711
65 Aviation/Rhinoceros E2 5a, 5c *** 7
66 Bermuda Bill
-
E4 6a 1
67 Igneous Pig
-
E3 5c ** 21
68 Rhinoceros E2 5c ** 72
69 Rhinoceros/Aviator E2 5c, 5a 7
70 Die Laughing
-
E5 6c 1
71 The Camel
-
E6 6c 1
72 Blood Lust
-
E4 6b 4
73 Levitation VS 4b ** 714
74 Levitation Direct HVS 5b * 133
75 Levi
-
E1 5b 14
76 Nameless
-
VD 17
77 Capstan
-
VD 33
78 Low Man Girdle
-
E3 6a 6
79 Dehydration
-
E2 5c 3
  Unknown
81 Raven Hill
-
VS 4b  
82 Igneous Aviator (Aviation Direct) E1 5c, 5a  
83 Fist and Buttock Clencher HVS 5c  

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Ian Jones