Climbs 83
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 75m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Mouldy Rain V9 © James Squire

Crag features

A solid limestone cave with fantastic views overlooking the Avon Gorge. Hard eliminate bouldering mainly on pinches or sloping holds with thumb catches. There are many variations and eliminates to be had. Please note, any stars given to problems here are "gollums stars" and serve only to differentiate between problems. Obviously eliminates are never worth any true stars.

The numbered problems feature in the guide produced by the late Ian Hill. A reproduction can be found in the esoteric bouldering guidebook (no longer available on the Climbing Academy website). All Esoteric Bouldering topos can be found here: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/17d7bTU2ONVSSMPus5tONyydN2QSNMZOq?usp=sharing

Approach notes

Gollum's is not easy to find. The easiest access is from the junction of Percival Road and Clifton Down. Take the right turn up the tarmac footpath that gently curves round to the right as it goes uphill away from the road. Walk straight on up here for 120 m to where a dilapidated metal fence appears on the right hand side of the footpath. Here drop down the steep earth bank on the right and turn left onto an earth track. Follow this for 15 m to a concrete block. Turn right steeply downhill for 30 m and then down and left for another 25 m to a large block of limestone lying on the left of the path. You should be able to see the buttress ahead from here - follow the track left and down again for 20 m. This takes only a couple of minutes from the road.

Yeah it's a little grim but countless hard and fun eliminates once you see past the setting Reuben's mattresses make a nice addition
ChrisClark1 - 31/May/19
Went there today, a bit of seepage but enough dry holds to climb on. It's a shame about the litter though - next time will bring a bin bag.
reubenrules123 - 07/Mar/18
testing
reubenhf - 23/May/17
Well worth a visit in my opinion. If you can look past the graffiti and rubbish its a lovely spot with some fun (and hard!) problems. I spent a couple hours playing around in the sun this afternoon and will definitely be going back. I cleared up the worst of the rubbish, although some of it looked pretty recent, so no doubt more will appear.
reubenhf - 22/May/17
I've climbed in worse places! Despite what people say it's ok I've enjoyed a few sessions in the cave.
tombeasley - 14/Aug/16
Not great - rubbish and food and crap left. Saddening. Rock very sooty and graffiti. Probably better in warmer months.
KeriV - 01/Jan/15
Been twice in the last week or so and isn't too bad, moved the rubbish to the right hand side of cave, rock and holds seam fine. Well fine apart from graffiti, soot and grease. At least the view is still nice!
Beastly Squirrel - 28/Jul/14
Went down to Gollums cave today to find it in a total state. Some people have been camped out there and have left mattresses, rubbish, sleeping bags etc. They have had fires in the cave two, breaking many of the holds and staining the cave with smoke, so not that great to boulder at any more unfortunately.
George Frisby - 12/Mar/14
Pretty good as for a few sessions for training. Grades can be pretty stiff around the 7A-B range, though this is the best range with a very diverse set of problems. Polished to hell and back so many of the more sloping holds are much harder (some now basically impossible) to hold unfortunately. Thumb Wars wall gets wet around fairly key foot and hand placements during rainy periods. Beware the deeply unsettling in-situ protection and good god do not turn it over...
AMorris - 15/Nov/13
Must come back when I have some muscles. Somebody appears to have moved in -two tents and a cave -Luxury!
leland stamper - 22/Apr/13
somebody cleaned the place up. impressed. was planning to do that at some point since i first came here. but now somebody else did. cool! don't think the current, cleaned-up state will last long though...
pheotleyr - 10/Aug/12
pleased to finally take a look after hearing about it several times over the past few years. Great spot. Did some bouldering but no idea what I ticked.
Stanners - 10/Jan/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Numbered problems
2 Problem 1 f5+ 38
3 Problem 2 f6B * 46
4 Problem 3 f6B+ 31
5 Problem 4 f6A+ 15
6 Problem 5 f6B 27
7 Problem 6 f6A+ 13
8 Problem 7 f6B+ 11
9 Problem 8 f6B 10
10 Problem 9 f6B 6
11 Problem 10 f6C 12
12 Problem 11 f6B+ 10
13 Problem 12 f6B+ 9
14 Problem 13 f6B+ 5
15 Problem 14 f6B+ 7
16 Problem 15 f6B+ 3
17 Problem 16 f7A 8
18 Problem 17 f7A * 4
19 Problem 18 f6C+ * 15
20 Problem 19 f6C+ 9
21 Problem 20 f7A 8
22 Problem 21 f7A 9
23 Problem 22 f7A 4
24 Problem 23 f7A 5
25 Problem 24 f7A * 5
26 Problem 25 f7A ** 5
27 Problem 26 f7A 5
28 Problem 27 f7A 4
29 Problem 28 - Tom's Problem f7A ** 7
Climb name Grade
30 Problem 29 f6C+ 8
31 Problem 30 f7A  
32 Problem 31 f6C+ 2
33 Problem 32 f7A 3
34 Problem 33 - Will's Problem f7A+ * 1
35 Problem 34 - Ron's Problem f7B+ * 1
36 Problem 35 f7A+ 4
37 Problem 36 f7A 2
38 Problem 37 f7B 5
39 Problem 38 f7A+  
40 Problem 39 f7A+ 1
41 Problem 40 f7B 1
42 Problem 41 f7B 1
43 Problem 42 f7B+  
  New problems
45 Thumb Wars f8A * 3
46 Thumb Wars Stand
-
f7C 4
47 Thumb Wars Extension f8A 2
48 Thumb Wars Variation
-
f7C+ 1
49 No Pain No Gain f7C+ 7
50 No Pain No Gain (left hand) f7C ** 10
51 Gollum's Campus Problem f7C 2
52 Mouldy Bananas f7C+ * 4
53 Mouldy Bananas SDS f8A * 3
54 Mouldy Rain f7C 2
55 Sore Thumb f8A+ 2
56 Painful Bananas f8A 2
57 Painful Bananas RH f8A 2
58 Gollum's One Armer f7C+ 3
Climb name Grade
59 Episode 2 f7C+ 4
60 Smeagol
-
f7C+ 1
61 Deagol
-
f7C 1
62 Overhanging Prow f6B+ 4
63 Odd Tom and The Reubster f6B 2
64 Pharaoh f7A * 2
65 The Squeeze f7A ** 2
66 Dennis The Menace f6B+ 1
67 Feet? f6A 1
68 Bob's Your Uncle f6C+ 2
69 Bollocks f7B ** 2
70 The Dragon f7B *** 2
71 Gandalf the Strong f7B 1
72 Magic jar of toe jam f7A+ 1
73 Dan Dan the Flying Man f7A * 1
74 At least 7B+, my arse f7A * 1
  Circuits
76 F7a+ Circuit 7a+ 9
77 Easy Gollum's Traverse f5+ 14
78 Gollum's Traverse
-
f7C 1
  Trad
80 Le Parsnip VS 6a 2
81 Top of the World E5 6c 1
82 Fred Karno
-
E5 6a  
83 Jack-the-Lad
-
E2 5b  
84 La Grande Pomme
-
E5 6a  
85 Great Flying Beer Cans
-
E1 5a  
86 Lipstick
-
E4 5c  
87 GGGGRRRR not myrrh E2 5c * 6

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