Climbs 81
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces W

Mr Fox doing his first trad of the year on Medusa © jamesgodwin64

Crag features

An excellent venue for low/middle grade traditional climbing with multi-pitch routes up to 46m long on the main buttress. Good quality rock with great exposure and fine views. Never too busy, but classic routes e.g. Gymnic (VS 4c) and Medusa (VS 4b,4b) are polished. Other great outings include Delusor (VS 4c), Via Vita (E1 5b) and Conclusor (HVS 4c, 5a). Few hard routes, but Wilt (E5 6b) is well-named, well-protected and tricky to flash. Starting to get overgrown, even on the most popular routes.

************* IMPORTANT ACCESS NOTE ***************
Nesting birds often mean temporary bans on parts of the crag early in the year and occasionally at other times. Please look out for restriction notices.

Further information on the BMC Regional Access using the link at the bottom of the page.

*********************************************************

Approach notes

Situated in Cressbrook Dale. Limited parking is available below the crag close to Ravensdale Cottages (SK 173737). Respect privacy please. A concessionary footpath leads up to the main buttress.
Often bird-banned early in the year and occasionally at other times too. Look for the warning notices.

Access Advice

The crag is owned and managed by Natural England and located in the Derbyshire Dales National Nature Reserve.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Raven and peregrine are nesting on the crag in 2017 which means two different areas of restriction, each with different dates as follows:

  • 15th March - 31st May: all routes between Cracked Edge and Solitaire
  • 15th March - 30th June: all routes from Solitaire rightwards

In addition to this, climbers should approach the crag using the lower (left hand) branch of the approach path which avoids Raven Buttress and make sure you move quickly along it rather than stopping to watch the birds. This left hand branch is a bit hard to spot as it clearly hasn't been used much recently, but it branches off the main path at a small cairn approx 30-40m from the toe of Raven Buttress and stays in the trees. Avoid staying at the top of the crag once you have topped out and instead descend to the base as quickly as possible. The only walking descent that should be used during the restriction is the gully on the left side of the crag but for several routes it is possible to abseil directly back to the bottom which is the quickest and best option.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Beachcomber
2 Raven Crack
-
VD 4
3 Canopy Crack
-
D 4
4 Unpleasant
-
S 1
5 True Lime
-
HS 4b 3
6 Bifurous Chimney VD 11
7 Pedestal Branch VD 9
8 Bifurous Corner
-
VS 4c 5
9 I Want Cookie E2 5c 1
10 The Bigot
-
HVS 5b  
11 The Bigot Direct Start E3 6a * 2
12 Forgotten Groove
-
VS 4c 3
13 So-So
-
S 4a 10
14 Ivy Corner
-
S 9
15 Tower Climb
-
VD 9
16 Beachcomber HVS 5a * 65
17 Tower Crack
-
HS 4b 2
18 Bosky
-
S 5
19 Gruesome Groove VS 4c 15
20 Scorpion E2 5c * 10
  Flying Buttress
22 The Gymnic HVS 5a * 124
23 Freedom Slaves E4 6c  
24 Cold Shoulder E1 5b 6
25 Amain HVS 5a ** 53
26 Russian Roulette HVS 5b 7
27 Looking at Blue HVS 5b 2
28 Impendant VS 4c ** 109
29 Shattered Crack VD 48
30 Amnesiacs E1 5b 1
31 Cave Corner S 4a 82
32 Ash Crack VS 4c ** 171
33 Hydrolysis E1 5b * 21
34 Tria HS 4b ** 111
  Malpossessed
36 Cut Loose or Fly E3 5c * 20
37 Wilt E5 6b ** 1
38 Pagan Man E5 6b *  
39 The Wilt Alternative E5 6c *  
40 Malpossessed HVS 5b * 10
41 Sneck HVS 5b 2
42 Tank
-
E1 5b 1
43 The Wick VS 4b 17
44 Ice Cream Pheonix
-
HVS 5a 1
45 Exfoliation
-
VS 4c  
46 Troops of Tomorrow E1 5c  
47 Rockbiter HVS 5a * 33
48 Plaque Crack S 4a 3
49 Gorrah VS 5a 1
50 Begorrah
-
VS 4c  
51 Sagittarius
-
VS 4c  
52 Cracked Edge
-
HS 4b  
53 Round the Bend
-
E2 5c 4
54 Hi-Fi
-
VS 4c 3
55 Boulder Problem
-
VS 4c 1
56 Metronome
-
VS 4c  
57 Postern Crack
-
VS 4c  
58 Yew Cap
-
VS 4c  
59 End Of The Tour E3 5c  
60 Y Chimney
-
VS 4c  
  Raven's Buttress
62 Myopia
-
HVS 4
63 Solitaire HS 4b 42
64 Conclusor HVS 5a *** 290
65 Delusor HVS 5a * 73
66 Hades
-
E2 1
67 Medusa VS 4b *** 385
68 Via Vita E1 5c * 107
69 Via Vita Direct E2 6a ** 16
70 Mealy Bugs VS 4c ** 156
71 Mealystopheles VS 5a * 85
72 Bullets HVS 5b * 5
73 Mephistopheles E1 5b ** 122
74 Purple Haze E1 5b ** 130
75 Ploy VS 4c * 128
76 Frore VS 5a * 42
77 Vintage Two
-
E2 5b 7
78 Enigma
-
HVS 5a 7
79 Paupericles
-
S 8
  Girdle Traverses
81 Girdle Traverse VS 4c  
82 Critical Town HVS 5a  
  Unknown

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