Climbs 123
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 460m a.s.l
Faces NE

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Cathy's Clown (E2) at Staden © Alan James

Crag features

A fine traditional climbing venue concentrated on two main faces of good quality, weathered limestone in an otherwise chossy quarry. Routes between 17 and 25m, mostly vertical/off vertical with good protection in the HVS to E3 range. Joint Effort Wall has the best routes; e.g. Joint Effort (HVS 5b), The Nails (HVS 5b), Liquid Courage (E1 5b) and the brilliant Cathy's Clown (E2 5c). Recommended on the the left-hand section are Bicycle Repair Man (E1 5b) and Telescopic Demand (E3 6a).

Approach notes

Limited parking at a specific spot in Cowdale (SK 084722, past first houses on right, space where road swings left) Cowdale is reached from the A6 Bakewell to Buxton Rd.

Lower Quarry - As for Staden Main Quarry. But head through the field in the direction of the A6 till you reach a gate, cross this and down the track  to a ruin the quarry is obvious on the left.

Restricted Access

The landowner of Staden has recently changed and the new landower's attitude to climbing is unknown. If visiting Staden to climb please continue to keep your impact low - park sensibly, remove litter, keep noise to a minimum - and demonstrate to the new landowner that responsible access will have no impact on their activities or local residents.

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Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
Cows have not been let loose on the field to graze for quite some time. If you suffer from bad hayfever avoid on a high pollen day or take extreme precautions. I was basically rendered useless on my last visit! The quarry acts like a pollen bowl.
Dominicgriff - 02/Jul/19
...and High Tor.
Jonny2vests - 15/Jan/10
Certainly an above average crag, we only picked only the obvious classics but all had nice non-strenuous techie moves on quality rock with good holds and gear. I'll defo return for the other ticks. Bit of a shame to visit on a sunny day tho, brrr.
Owen W-G - 28/Sep/09
...apart from chee tor and malham. and gordale. and avon.
martin k - 22/Jun/06
By far the best inland trad limestone in the country. Much more like a sea-cliff or mountain slab than the usual choss.
Fiend - 10/Jun/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Main Quarry
  Freezone Wall
3 Hells Teeth S 1
4 Conspiracy Theory E2 5b 2
5 One Foot In The Cave E3 5c * 1
6 Down To the Armpits E2 5b *  
7 Monochlor E1 5c  
8 Slap On The Pyro HVS 5b  
9 Cornicure VS 4c 1
10 Don't Forget The Freezone E1 5b 3
11 Salactol E1 5b  
  Box Recess Wall
13 Locks, Box and Barrel
-
VS 4c 22
14 Boxed In E2 5c  
15 Thinking Outside The Box E2 5b 5
16 X-Box HS 4a * 34
17 Open the Box VS 4c * 38
18 Little Boxes on a Hillside
-
VS 4c * 29
19 Boxing Number 7
-
E2 5c 3
20 Boxing Clever
-
E1 5a * 20
21 Forbidden Rib
-
E2 5b * 2
22 The Dead Parrot Sketch
-
VS 4c 5
23 The Ministry of Silly Walks
-
VS 4b 4
  A Game of Chess
25 Tout Comprendre HVS 4c 3
26 Je ne Comprendre Pas
-
E5 6a  
27 A Game of Chess E5 6b ** 7
28 Hammer into Anvil E2 6a 22
29 Nice 'n' Sleazy E2 5b * 20
30 Nice 'n' Sleazy Original E2 5b  
31 96 Smears E5 6c  
32 Rupert Bear Goes Hiking VS 4c * 149
33 Bimbo the Exploding Lorry Driver's Gulch Eliminate HS 4b * 266
34 Beau Jest E1 5a 10
35 The Stig E2 5c 1
36 Stig of the Dump E1 5a 1
37 Emblam Embargo HVS 5a 1
38 Somebody's Trademark HVS 5a 2
  Bicycle Repair Man
40 Silent Manoeuvres E4 5c * 5
41 Telescopic Demand E3 6a ** 81
42 Telescopic Demand Original E3 5c *  
43 Swan Song E1 5b * 116
44 Bicycle Repair Man E1 5b ** 572
45 Top Gear E5 6b *  
46 Charas E1 5b ** 217
Climb name Grade
47 Mosaic Piece E4 5c 4
48 Wipe Out E3 5b * 19
49 Paraplege E3 5c ** 64
50 Amatarasu VS 4c 30
  Towers Area
52 Pussycat Groove
-
E2 5b  
53 What's New Pussycat
-
E1 5b  
54 Towering in Pernod
-
VS 4c  
55 Towered Out
-
E2 5c  
56 Step by Step VS 4b 1
57 The Cow and Trout HVS 5a *  
58 Step On It
-
E2 5c  
59 A Hard Shoulder To Cry On
-
6a  
60 Middle Laner
-
6c  
61 Curb Your Passion
-
6b+  
  Joint Effort Wall
63 Wooden Leg
-
E2 5b  
64 Xenophobia
-
E1 5a * 26
65 Suscipiat VS 4c ** 452
66 Sunai E1 5b * 112
67 The Nails E1 5b ** 507
68 Soft Times E1 5c * 90
69 Welcome to Hard Times E2 5c ** 251
70 Welcome to Hard Times Direct E3 5c ** 88
71 Joint Effort HVS 5a *** 769
72 Badlands E3 6a 5
73 Private Gripped E6 6b * 4
74 Captain Reliable E2 5c ** 294
75 Extra Effort E2 5c 3
76 Investal HVS 5a 11
77 Clowning E2 5b * 5
78 Cathy's Clown E2 5c ** 299
79 Cathy's Courage E3 6a 9
80 Liquid Courage Left-hand E3 6a  
81 Liquid Courage E1 5b ** 356
82 Sound As A Trout E3 5c 2
83 Cross Purposes HVS 5b 1
  Yellow Wall Area
85 Great Expectations HVS 5b * 1
  The Solo Area
87 Solar Plexus
-
VD 4
88 Diaphragm VS 4b 3
89 Friendly Local
-
S 1
90 Generosity Exists HS 4a 2
91 Sun Crack HS 4a * 17
92 Olotson
-
S 4b 2
Climb name Grade
93 Flying Solo
-
E4 6a *  
94 Solo
-
HS 4a 2
95 Fixation
-
HS 4c 1
96 Distant Thunder E1 5c * 5
97 The Wry-Necked Gonk
-
VS 5a 2
98 Frozen Assets HVS 4c * 12
99 The Solo Man's Ploy VS 4c * 4
100 O' Solo Mio HVS 5a * 5
101 Emergency E2 5a * 4
102 The Orange Throated Gonk VS 4b  
103 Baang VS 5a 1
104 The Soloist E2 5c * 1
  Lower Quarry
  Ruin Wall
107 Snowy the Owl
-
6a+  
108 Snow Blow
-
6a  
109 To Cold For Snow
-
6a 2
110 Girl from the Snow Country
-
6a+  
111 The Snow Queen
-
6a+  
112 Frosty Arete
-
6b  
  Soft Mick Wall
114 St Petersburger
-
6a  
115 Leningrad
-
E1 5b  
116 Route 1
-
HVS 5b  
117 Death's Retreat
-
6b+ 2
118 Laurel and Jihadi
-
7a+  
119 Soft Mick 6b+ 3
120 Bandobras Took
-
6c 1
121 Taxing Times
-
6b+  
122 Tax To The Max
-
6b 2
123 VAT Man!
-
6b  
124 The Tax Inspector
-
6a 6
125 Capital Gains
-
6a+ 1
126 The Staden Unconquerable
-
6c 1
  Silent Fear Wall
128 Invisible Limits
-
6c+  
129 Silent Fear
-
6c  
130 A Nice, Quiet Beer
-
6b+ 3
131 Deviant
-
6b 2
132 Levant
-
6c  
133 Ephemeral Groove
-
5b 4
134 Before the Storm
-
6b+ 2
135 Restive Being
-
6b 3
136 Being at Rest
-
6c+  

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