Climbs 77
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 460m a.s.l
Faces NE

On Joint Effort at Staden © http://Climbers.net

Crag features

A fine traditional climbing venue concentrated on two main faces of good quality, weathered limestone in an otherwise chossy quarry. Routes between 17 and 25m, mostly vertical/off vertical with good protection in the HVS to E3 range. Joint Effort Wall has the best routes; e.g. Joint Effort (HVS 5b), The Nails (HVS 5b), Liquid Courage (E1 5b) and the brilliant Cathy's Clown (E2 5c). Recommended on the the left-hand section are Bicycle Repair Man (E1 5b) and Telescopic Demand (E3 6a).

Approach notes

Limited parking at a specific spot in Cowdale (SK 084722, past first houses on right, space where road swings left) Cowdale is reached from the A6 Bakewell to Buxton Rd.

Access Advice

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Permissive access to the crag for climbing was withdrawn in 2012 when the landowner began an application process for a water bottling plant in the quarry. The landowner stated at that time that the ban was not permanent and that concessionary access for climbers would be restored once the outcomes of any planning applications for use of the site were decided upon. This unfortunately did not happen and the landowner has not re-instated the permissive access that was promised. Further planning applications and appeals have been submitted which have not been successful so far.

The BMC does not support the continued ban on climbing in the quarry, but is informing climbers of the wishes of the landowner. If climbers decide to climb at Staden and are challenged by the landowner, please be polite and if asked to leave, do so as soon as you safely can.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
...and High Tor.
Jonny2vests - 15/Jan/10
Certainly an above average crag, we only picked only the obvious classics but all had nice non-strenuous techie moves on quality rock with good holds and gear. I'll defo return for the other ticks. Bit of a shame to visit on a sunny day tho, brrr.
Owen W-G - 28/Sep/09
...apart from chee tor and malham. and gordale. and avon.
martin k - 22/Jun/06
By far the best inland trad limestone in the country. Much more like a sea-cliff or mountain slab than the usual choss.
Fiend - 10/Jun/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Freezone Wall
2 Hells Teeth S 1
3 Conspiracy Theory E2 5b  
4 One Foot In The Cave E3 5c * 1
5 Down To the Armpits E2 5b *  
6 Monochlor E1 5c  
7 Slap On The Pyro HVS 5b  
8 Cornicure VS 4c 1
9 Don't Forget The Freezone E1 5b 3
10 Salactol E1 5b  
  Box Recess Wall
12 Locks, Box and Barrel VS 4c 3
13 Boxed In
-
E2 5c  
14 Thinking Outside The Box E3 5c  
15 X-box HVS 5a * 4
16 Open the box HVS 5a * 8
17 Little Boxes on a Hillside E1 5b *  
18 Boxing Number 7 E2 5c 1
19 Boxing Clever E1 5a * 4
20 Forbidden Rib E2 5b *  
21 The Dead Parrot Sketch VS 4c 3
22 The Ministry of Silly Walks VS 4b 2
  A Game of Chess
24 Tout Comprendre HVS 4c 3
25 Je ne Comprendre Pas
-
E5 6a  
26 A Game of Chess E5 6b ** 5
27 Hammer into Anvil E2 6a 20
28 Nice 'n' Sleazy E2 5b * 19
29 96 Smears E5 6c  
30 Rupert Bear Goes Hiking VS 4c * 120
31 Bimbo the Exploding Lorry Driver's Gulch Eliminate HS 4b * 209
32 Beau Jest E1 5a 9
33 The Stig E2 5c 1
34 Stig of the Dump E1 5a 1
35 Emblam Embargo HVS 5a 1
36 Somebody's Trademark HVS 5a 2
  Bicycle Repair Man
38 Silent Manoeuvres E4 5c * 5
39 Telescopic Demand E3 6a ** 71
40 Swan Song E1 5b * 97
41 Bicycle Repair Man E1 5b ** 485
42 Top Gear E5 6b *  
43 Charas E1 5b ** 170
44 Mosaic Piece E4 5c 4
45 Wipe Out E3 5b * 15
46 Paraplege E3 5c ** 51
47 Amatarasu VS 4c 26
  Joint Effort Wall
49 Xenophobia
-
E1 5a * 8
50 Suscipiat VS 4c ** 353
51 Sunai E1 5b * 89
52 The Nails E1 5b ** 396
53 Soft Times E1 5c * 69
54 Welcome to Hard Times E2 5c ** 210
55 Welcome to Hard Times Direct E3 5c ** 67
56 Joint Effort HVS 5a *** 632
57 Badlands E3 6a 4
58 Private Gripped E6 6b * 3
59 Captain Reliable E2 5c ** 241
60 Extra Effort E2 5c 3
61 Investal HVS 5a 10
62 Clowning E2 5b * 5
63 Cathy's Clown E2 5c ** 247
64 Cathys Courage E3 5c * 7
65 Liquid Courage E1 5b ** 287
66 Sound As A Trout E3 5c 2
67 Cross Purposes HVS 5b 1
  The Solo Area
69 Solar Plexus
-
VD 4
70 Diaphragm VS 4b 1
71 Friendly Local
-
S  
72 Generosity Exists HS 4a 1
73 Sun Crack HS 4a * 4
74 Olotson
-
S 4b  
75 Flying Solo
-
E4 6a *  
76 Solo
-
HS 4a 1
77 Fixation
-
HS 4c 1
78 Distant Thunder E1 5c * 3
79 The Wry-Necked Gonk
-
VS 5a 2
80 Frozen Assets HVS 4c * 4
81 The Solo Man's Ploy VS 4c * 4
82 O' Solo Mio HVS 5a * 1
83 Step by Step * VS 4b 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Whealiebob