Altitude 460m a.s.l
On Joint Effort at Staden © http://Climbers.net
A fine traditional climbing venue concentrated on two main faces of good quality, weathered limestone in an otherwise chossy quarry. Routes between 17 and 25m, mostly vertical/off vertical with good protection in the HVS to E3 range. Joint Effort Wall has the best routes; e.g. Joint Effort (HVS 5b), The Nails (HVS 5b), Liquid Courage (E1 5b) and the brilliant Cathy's Clown (E2 5c). Recommended on the the left-hand section are Bicycle Repair Man (E1 5b) and Telescopic Demand (E3 6a).
Limited parking at a specific spot in Cowdale (SK 084722, past first houses on right, space where road swings left) Cowdale is reached from the A6 Bakewell to Buxton Rd.
Reason: Nesting Birds
Permissive access to the crag for climbing was withdrawn in 2012 when the landowner began an application process for a water bottling plant in the quarry. The landowner stated at that time that the ban was not permanent and that concessionary access for climbers would be restored once the outcomes of any planning applications for use of the site were decided upon. This unfortunately did not happen and the landowner has not re-instated the permissive access that was promised. Further planning applications and appeals have been submitted which have not been successful so far.
The BMC does not support the continued ban on climbing in the quarry, but is informing climbers of the wishes of the landowner. If climbers decide to climb at Staden and are challenged by the landowner, please be polite and if asked to leave, do so as soon as you safely can.
|...and High Tor.|
Jonny2vests - 15/Jan/10
|Certainly an above average crag, we only picked only the obvious classics but all had nice non-strenuous techie moves on quality rock with good holds and gear. I'll defo return for the other ticks. Bit of a shame to visit on a sunny day tho, brrr.|
Owen W-G - 28/Sep/09
|...apart from chee tor and malham. and gordale. and avon.|
martin k - 22/Jun/06
|By far the best inland trad limestone in the country. Much more like a sea-cliff or mountain slab than the usual choss.|
Fiend - 10/Jun/06