Climbs 33
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces S

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milky clipping © Tom Russell

Crag features

Very sheltered and sunny aspect with climbing on mainly vertical quarried walls. Most routes start from ledge above deep pool. Takes no seepage so year-round climbing possible. Some reasonable bouldering on short walls at entrance, though a little sandy.


important note. September 2017, beware of hidden wasp nest below Nectar.

Approach notes

Head Northwest out of Dundee on A923, passing through Birkhill. Midway through Muirhead, follow A923 left, heading for Coupar Angus. Follow A923 for approx 10Km, passing Piperdam, Lundie, Tullybaccart and eventually Pitcur. Almost immediately after Pitcur turn right at the sign for Newtyle (Grid ref NO248372) onto small country road. Follow road to Village of Ley. Just before the 2nd house on right there is an indistinct track (Grid
ref NO253377) leading up to woods. Drive up track: parking beside reservoir. Please don't block the track. Follow the track up past the gate - the quarry can be seen on the right.

cleaned the top of rottweiler,although the rain today has probably carried more from the top down. no lower offs on it, absailed from the tree.
Hawky - 04/Jul/15
An impressive face. The whole place seemed overgrown yet the main face always looked impressively clean. Myself and Dave did a lot of clearing, many holds seemed permi-dirty/sandy and more traffic would do it good in this respect, though it doesn't lend itself to large numbers and the sandstone wears away... The walkway is brilliant, and gives the place a lot of interest (and makes belay changeovers fun!).
Kevin Woods - 18/Mar/14
It was the choice for the day as the weather was bad in Glen Clova, Routes were ok but I enjoyed the bouldering much more than the routes and I am not a keen boulderer by any means. Some of the routes feel like the bolts are in a dangerous position if you dont have a clipstick and are onsighting.
Sandy Simpson - 28/Sep/09
if you are vertically challenged then stay away from this place! a great place for lanky types i would think
Lead dnf - 27/Sep/09
The purists should note that most of the routes are chipped. Nonetheless good quality sports climbing generally characterised by long stretches between teeny holds on vertical rock.
Eric9Points - 04/Nov/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Rotweiller 4a 91
2 Scarred for Life
6a 152
3 Magic Pockets
6b 96
4 Pit Bull
4a 118
5 Cat Scratch Fever
4a 93
6 April's Arete
3c 59
7 Easy Ley
6a+ 73
8 Nectar
6a+ 113
9 Dropping Like Flies
6b 7
10 Nirvana
7a+ *** 28
11 Five Magics 6b+ ** 67
12 Footfall
6a 135
Climb name Grade
13 Not the Risk Business
6c 28
14 Drowning by Numbers 7a+ * 14
15 Darkmoon Rising
6b 15
16 Twilight Zone
7a 7
17 Fishing for Compliments
6b 14
18 Caught in the Act
6b 16
19 Traditional Imperfections
6a * 25
20 Making the Grade 7b 9
21 Pool of Despair
7a+ * 16
22 Leyed To Rest
7a 16
23 Barrel of Laughs 7a ** 46
24 Haul or Nothing
7b+ ** 10
Climb name Grade
25 Holy Water
7b 7
26 Life's a Beach
6b * 33
27 Fat Man Starts to Fall
6b * 21
28 The Magic Thumb
7b 5
29 Carlos Fire 6b+ 1
31 Tree Beard f7B+ ** 4
32 Tree Beard (with foot ledge)
f6C 6
33 Bouldering Wall Traverse (L-R) f6B 11
34 Sloper lip traverse f6A 12

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