Climbs 102
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 368m a.s.l
Faces NW

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Trellis © Nick Brown

Crag features

The North Quarry is a gloomy quarry with a few decent routes best done on high summer evenings. When the sun is flooding in Fox House Flake or Zeus will be memorable experiences and not greasy battles. The outer slab, including the classic Millwheel Wall, comes into condition more often. The often-wet wall at the back of the quarry is now home to a set of technical wall climbs that are rarely in condition.

The Southern Quarry is as grim as its neighbour; it has a small collection of hard routes and a few lesser offerings. Most of the routes are only climbable after a dry spell.

Approach notes

The best approach is from the Fox House end of the valley. There is parking on the grass verge on the roadside 200m uphill from the entrance to the pub car park. A stile allows you to cross the wall and leads straight across the moor (splodgy after rain) for 550m to reach the cliff-top path above the quarries. The rest of the crag is to the right (northeast) from here.

Green Drive - There is a very limited parking spot (about 5 cars) at the end of the main valley path. Walk up the Green Drive and head rightwards up the hill to reach the quarries.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  North Quarry
2 Hanging Prow f6C * 22
3 Hanging Prow Sit-start f7A+ * 53
4 Run The Jewels VS 5a 3
5 Deception HVS 5c 1
6 Great Flake Route VD 47
7 Zorev f7C ** 10
8 Zorev Sit-start
-
V10 *  
9 Hidden in the Midden E2 5c 3
10 Chinese Whispers
-
E3 6a *  
11 Zeus E2 5b *** 208
12 Fagus Sylvatica E8 7a *  
13 Hades E1 5c ** 106
14 It's Just Not Fair E5 6b  
15 Fox House Flake VS 4b ** 671
16 Disbeliever HVS 5a 1
17 Fox House Fake
-
HVS 5b 21
18 The Cock VS 5a * 68
19 Perched Block Route HVS 4c 9
20 Violence f7A+ * 62
21 Stockbroker on the Woodpile E5 6b 1
22 French Kiss E8 6b * 2
23 Inspiration Dedication E8 6b * 1
24 Psychosomatic Pigeon E7 6b *  
25 Odin's Piles HVS 4c 1
26 Shadows on the Wall E7 6b * 2
27 Curving Chimney
-
VD 3
28 Coldest Crack E2 5c ** 32
29 Bashed Crab Meets Dr Barnard E4 6a  
30 Little Monkey Hands
-
E5 6a  
31 Sand Chimney
-
VD 2
32 Static Irritation
-
E3 6a  
33 Valk Corner
-
S 1
34 Nice and Tasty
-
HVS 5b  
35 Corner Chimney
-
M 6
36 Longest Day
-
HVS 5a  
37 Shale
-
D 1
Climb name Grade
38 Prince Tarquin
-
E2 5b 2
39 Connoisseur's Crack
-
HVS 5b * 9
40 Broken Wall
-
VD 4
41 Twin Cracks VS 4c 19
42 Broken Crack
-
S 8
43 Flaked Out
-
E4 5c 4
44 Picnic In Palestine * VE ? ***  
  Millwheel Slab
46 Mini Millwheel f5 * 49
47 Millwheel Mantel V0+ 11
48 Middle-Aged Mutant Ninja Birtles
-
E3 6a  
49 Dunkley's Eliminate VS 4c ** 480
50 Pretzel Logic E3 6a * 18
51 Millwheel Wall E1 5b *** 285
52 Cartwheel Wall
-
E2 5c 3
53 Hell for Leather
-
E4 6b * 3
54 Cardinal's Backbone
-
HVS 5a 1
55 Scoop Crack VS 4b 7
56 Giant's Staircase
-
VD 12
57 Spyhole Crack
-
VD 14
58 Burssola HVS 5b * 90
59 R9
-
HVS 5b 1
  Between The Quarries
61 Softwidth Wall f4+ * 20
62 Rabbit Offwidth V0- 18
63 Soft ArĂȘte f5 6
64 Rabbit Claw f6A 11
65 Side-pull Arch f5+ ** 148
66 Hamburger Roof f6A+ * 38
67 The Celtic Cross f5+ *** 245
68 Little Gem f7A ** 53
  South Quarry
70 G.B.H.
-
E4 6a 2
71 The Verdict E2 6a 1
72 The Old Bailey HVS 5b * 3
73 Bingo Chicken Wings E3 5c **  
74 Wizzard Ridge ?  
Climb name Grade
75 The Simpering Savage E5 6b * 4
76 Bracken Crack
-
HS 4b 11
77 Shattered Crack
-
VD 18
78 No Flowers E5 6b  
79 Keep On Giving E7 6b ** 1
80 Undercut Crack
-
f6C 3
81 Poisoned Dwarf E1 5c * 50
82 Pendulous E4 6a *  
83 Trellis f7A ** 25
84 The Ramp
-
HVS 5a 6
85 Gardener's Wall
-
HVS 5b 4
86 Creaking Flakes
-
VS 4c 4
87 Noble Rot
-
E2 5c 1
88 The Dover and Ellis Chimney E1 5b * 4
89 Silent Spring E4 5c *** 12
90 Silent Scream E7 6c *** 1
91 Grooveamarionation
-
E4 6b  
92 Masters of the Universe E7 6c ** 15
93 Offspring E5 6b *** 34
94 Captain Invincible E8 6c ***  
95 Captain Unclimbable ? ***  
96 Leotard Legend f7C ** 5
  The Kindergarten
98 Lilou
-
VB 9
99 Kinderlibrium
-
VB 9
100 Quiet Slab * V4  
  Sliver Boulder
102 Sliverlite f3 3
103 Sliversmith f6A 2
104 Slivereen f5+ 2
105 Sliver f5 2
106 Sliver Lining f4 2
107 Sliver Spoon f4+ 2
  7a Slab
109 PDB 7a Slab f7A 34
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer mark20