Climbs 102
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 368m a.s.l
Faces NW

Trellis © Nick Brown

Crag features

Either walk in along the Green Drive, or park further up the road by the stile and follow the path straight over the top to the quarries.

North facing and exposed to NW-NE winds means the more exposed routes are surprisingly quick drying in especially with some afternoon sun.

Don't miss Dunkley's Eliminate (VS), Fox House Flake (VS), Millwheel Wall (E1), Coldest Crack (E2), Zeus (E2) and some good recent E7-8 additions.

Approach notes

See under Burbage South Edges

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  North Quarry
2 Hanging Prow f6C * 11
3 Hanging Prow Crouch Start f7A+ * 30
4 Deception HVS 5c 1
5 Run The Jewels * VS 5a 1
6 The Great Flake Route VD 34
7 Zorev f7C ** 9
8 Zorev Sit Start
-
V10 7a *  
9 Chinese Whispers E3 6a *  
10 Hidden In The Midden E2 5c 3
11 Zeus E2 5b *** 193
12 Fagus Sylvatica E8 7a *  
13 Hades E1 5c ** 88
14 It's Just Not Fair E5 6b  
15 Fox House Flake VS 4b ** 580
16 Disbeliever HVS 5a 1
17 Fox House Fake
-
HVS 5b 20
18 The Cock VS 5a * 60
19 Perched Block Route HVS 4c 9
20 Violence f7A+ * 51
21 Stockbroker On The Woodpile E5 6b 1
22 French Kiss E8 6b * 2
23 Inspiration Dedication E8 6b * 1
24 Psychosomatic Pigeon E7 6b *  
25 Odin's Piles HVS 4c 1
26 Shadows On The Wall E7 6b * 2
27 Curving Crack
-
VD 3
28 Coldest Crack E2 5c ** 25
29 Bashed Crab Meets Dr Barnard E4 6a  
30 Little Monkey Hands
-
E5 6a  
31 Sand Chimney
-
VD 2
32 Static Irritation
-
E3 6a  
33 Valk Corner
-
S 1
34 Nice and Tasty
-
HVS 5b  
35 Corner Chimney
-
M 4
36 Longest Day
-
HVS 5a  
37 Shale
-
D 1
38 Prince Tarquin
-
E2 5b 2
39 Connoisseur's Crack
-
HVS 5b * 7
40 Broken Wall
-
VD 3
41 Twin Cracks VS 4c 16
42 Broken Crack
-
S 7
43 Flaked Out
-
E4 5c 3
44 Rockfax Fax09 P12 V0+ 5a 6
45 Rockfax Fax09 P11 V0 4c 5
46 T.S. Something V0 5a 5
  Millwheel Slab
48 Mini Millwheel f5 * 23
49 Rockfax Fax09 P8 V0 5a 15
50 Rockfax Fax09 P9 V0+ 5b 11
51 Middle-Aged Mutant Ninja Birtles
-
E3 6a  
52 Dunkley's Eliminate VS 4c ** 417
53 Pretzel Logic E3 6a * 14
54 Millwheel Wall E1 5b *** 276
55 Cartwheel Wall
-
E2 5c 3
56 Hell For Leather
-
E4 6b * 2
57 Cardinal's Backbone
-
HVS 5a  
58 Scoop Crack VS 4b 7
59 Giant's Staircase
-
VD 9
60 Spyhole Crack
-
VD 14
61 Burssola HVS 5b * 71
62 R9
-
HVS 5b 1
  Between The Quarries
64 Softwidth Wall f4+ * 17
65 Rabbit Offwidth S 4b 17
66 Soft Arete f5 6
67 Rabbit Claw f6A 10
68 Side-pull Arch f5+ ** 119
69 Hamburger Roof f6A+ * 27
70 The Celtic Cross f5+ *** 191
71 Little Gem f7A ** 39
  South Quarry
73 The Verdict E2 6a  
74 G.B.H.
-
E4 6a 1
75 The Old Bailey HVS 5b * 1
76 Wizzard Ridge none proj  
77 The Simpering Savage E5 6b * 4
78 Bracken Crack
-
HS 4b 8
79 Shattered Crack
-
VD 14
80 No Flowers E5 6b  
81 Keep On Giving E7 6b ** 1
82 Poisoned Dwarf E1 5c * 45
83 Trellis f7A ** 17
84 The Ramp
-
HVS 5a 4
85 Gardener's Wall
-
HVS 5b 4
86 Creaking Flakes
-
VS 4c 3
87 Noble Rot
-
E2 5c  
88 The Dover and Ellis Chimney E1 5b * 1
89 Silent Spring E4 5c *** 10
90 Silent Scream E7 6c *** 1
91 Grooveamarionation
-
E4 6b  
92 Masters Of The Universe E7 6c ** 10
93 Offspring E5 6b *** 27
94 Captain Invincible E8 6c ***  
95 Captain Unclimbable none ***  
96 Leotard Legend f7C ** 5
  Other Bouldering
98 PDB 7a Slab f7A 30
99 Undercut Crack
-
f6C 6b 2
100 Sliversmith f6A 1
101 Slivereen f5+ 1
102 Sliver f5 1
103 Sliver Lining f4 1
104 Sliver Spoon f4+ 1
105 Sliverlite f3 1
106 Lilou
-
VB 7
107 Kinderlibrium
-
VB 7
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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