Climbs 378
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces W

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Matt clamping his way up the Yorkshire classic Red Baron (V7) © Jamie Moss

Crag features

Shipley Glen is a treasure of Yorkshire climbing - it should be listed as a World Heritage Site like Saltaire down the tramway.  There is pure bouldering and even some routes but the real specialty of 'The Glen' is the predominance of good old fashioned, tiny holded, old-school high balls.  These are mini-routes that can test technique and commitment in equal measure.  Everything can feel hard for the grade, but in a good way that will stimulate you - the perfect antidote to plastic bucket pulling.

At one time, the crag had a bit of an unsavory reputation but currently it is close to idyllic - the sylvan setting almost equals the quality of the climbing.  The Sun hitting it from the West makes it good early and late in the season; the first or last stolen after work climb of many a year for many.

Pete Jackson attempted to rationalise the amazing variety on offer at Shipley Glen by encouraging contributors to mention the guides they picked the problems from.  This approach has been continued, so:

CD = Cameron Duff 2000
TC = Total Climbing 2008

To borrow from Gladiator, "If you tire of Shipley Glen or start to find the climbs easy, don't worry - you're already dead!"

Approach notes

Park in the parking spots.  Walk down.

There is a lot of broken glass around glen arÍte area
Steve H87 - 04/Dec/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 The Glen 100 TD *** 6
2 The Alternative Circuit D *** 1
  God is Love
4 Jesus Saves
-
f5 5
5 Outreach f5+ 2
6 God Graffiti's
-
f6B 1
7 God is Love
-
f4 7
8 God is Love Traverse
-
f6A 1
9 Sleeping Beauty Sit f6C ** 6
10 Making Up f4 1
11 Wicked Way f4 1
  CD Boulder 1 TC Area 1 - Dog's Dinner Buttress
13 Dogging f5 128
14 Dogger
-
f4+ * 134
15 Dog's Dinner Gully Arete f5 5a * 17
16 Dog's Dinner f4 ** 116
17 Dog's Dinner Direct f5 69
18 Dog's Dinner Right Arete (CD 1 Problem 5) V0 14
  CD Boulder 2 TC Area 2 - Christine's Horror- Kestrel Crack
20 Sparrow Hawk Left f3 7
21 Sparrow Hawk Left Sit f4+ * 7
22 Sparrow Hawk
-
f4 107
23 CD 2 Problem 2 VB 5a+ 11
24 Falcon f5+ ** 105
25 Kestrel Crack f4+ *** 165
26 Fowler f5+ *** 76
27 CD 2 Problem 6 V1 5c 12
28 The Blair Witch f5+ 35
29 Voodoo Doll f6A 53
30 Higher Terra f4+ 51
31 Christine's Horror
-
f4+ 63
32 Tree Traverse f3+ * 2
33 Tree Traverse Eliminate f5 1
  CD Boulder 3 TC Area 3 - Low Block - The Press
35 The Press f4+ 17
36 Low Block Traverse f6B+ 3
37 CD 3 Problem 3 VB 4b 9
38 Slabby Side f3+ 30
39 CD 3 Problem 5 V1 5c * 9
  CD Boulder 4 TC Area 4 - Good Evans
41 CD 4 Problem 1
-
V0 5b 2
42 CD 4 Problem 2
-
V3 6a 3
43 Double D
-
f7A 5
44 CD 4 Problem 4 V5 6b+ 1
45 Wall and Roof f6C * 18
46 Wall and Roof Bail Right f6A * 7
47 Hammer f4 * 73
48 Hammer Sit f5 ** 4
49 Leaper
-
f4 * 75
50 Leaper, SDS f5 38
51 Evans Above
-
f6A+ 35
52 Good Evans f6A 44
53 Gosh f5+ * 13
54 CD 4 Problem 11
-
V0 5b 4
55 CD 4 Problem 13
-
V1 5c 6
56 CD 11 f5 2
57 Low Ledges Sit (CD11 from a sitter) f6A * 2
  CD Boulder 5 TC Area 5 - Charlie Brown -Woodstock
59 Rerun f4 30
60 CD 5 Problem 2
-
V1 5c 5
61 Linus f4+ 43
62 Woodstock f3 48
63 Lucy f5 33
64 Snoopy
-
f5 27
65 CD 5 Problem 7
-
V1 5b 3
66 Wooden Wedge
-
f5+ 26
67 CD 5 Problem 9 TC Problem 7 f6A 7
  CD Boulder 6 - Fool's Mirror
69 CD 6 (Fool's Mirror), Problem 1 V2 5c 2
70 CD 6 Problem 3
-
VB 4c 4
71 Pick Pocket f3+ 22
72 Image
-
f4 18
73 Flute Route f3 * 23
74 Reflection f4 14
75 Fool's Mirror f3+ 17
76 Oboe
-
f5 2
  CD Boulder 7 TC Area 6 - Square Face
78 CD 7 Problem 1
-
f4 6
79 One Hand One Hold
-
f5+ 13
80 Side Step
-
f4 13
81 Central Route
-
f4 22
82 Square Face
-
f4+ 11
83 Layaway f5 23
84 CD 7 Problem 7
-
V5 6b  
  CD Boulder 8 TC Area 7 - YMC Wall- Glen Arete
86 Last Line
-
f4 14
87 Revived 45
-
f5+ 13
88 Fair Lady f6A 13
89 Lancashire Hotpot f6B 7
90 Mike's Wall
-
f5+ 43
91 CD 8 Problem 6
-
V4 6a 3
92 The Glen Arete Left f5 ** 9
93 The Glen Arete
-
f4 * 159
94 YMC Wall
-
f4 * 191
95 Groovy
-
f4+ 117
96 Faint Heart f4+ 110
97 Jimmy Jump
-
f4 70
98 Mini Arete f4 75
99 Left Edge
-
f4+ 150
100 Left Edge Sitter
-
f5+ 16
101 The Hole
-
f4 146
102 The Hole Sitter
-
f5+ 14
103 Hole Lotta Love f6A 4
104 Chart Topper
-
f5+ 80
105 CD 8 Problem 16 V0 5a+ 18
106 CD 8 Problem 17
-
VB 4c 16
107 Golden Oldie Left Arete Sitter f5+ 13
108 Golden Oldie f4 199
109 Golden Oldie, SDS
-
f5+ 93
110 Golden Oldie Wall Sitter f5+ * 21
111 CD 8 Problem 19 VB 5a 27
112 Block Traverse
-
f6C 31
113 Last Minute f4 4
114 Last Orders f5 3
115 Last Train Home f5 3
116 Last But Not Least f4 6
117 Final Chapter f5 2
  CD Boulder 9 TC Area 8 - John Area- Grooved Arete
119 Stretch
-
f4 84
120 Grooved Arete
-
f3 199
121 Reach for the Sky
-
f4+ 218
122 Reach for the Pie f4 149
123 Wall L of Tree f4 19
124 Wall L of Tree Eliminate f5 7
125 Kate's Horror
-
f2+ 171
126 Kate's Horror Eliminate f4 11
127 Kate's Horror Eliminate II f5+ 3
128 TC 8 Unnamed Traverse f6C 14
129 Stump
-
f4 130
130 TC 8b Problem 2 f4 67
131 Gensing
-
f3 204
132 John
-
f4 229
133 CD 9 Problem 10 V3 5c+ 17
134 The John Traverse
-
f5 34
135 John's Footless Traverse - John Area, CD Problem 11 V5 6a * 2
136 TC 8b Wooden Wedge f5+ 42
Climb name Grade
137 CD 9 Problem 12 V2 5c 11
  CD Boulder 10 TC Area 9 - Leaper Roof
139 Lemming f4 79
140 Jug for a Thug
-
f5 * 206
141 Leaper
-
f5+ * 159
142 Leaper Roof Extension (TC 9a Problem 3) f6A 12
143 Leaper Leap V0 5b 7
144 Leaper Leap Footless V1 5b 5
145 Leaper Roof, Problem 4 V3 6a 18
146 Leaper Roof, Problem 5 V2 6a 12
147 Leaper Roof, Problem 6 V2 5c 15
148 Lemur f6A 57
149 Lemur C f6B 14
  Leaper Traverse
151 Leaper Traverse f6A ** 150
152 CD 11 Problem 2 f6B 18
153 Leaper Footless Traverse V2 5b 3
154 Leaper Eliminate Traverse
-
f6C 60
155 Leaper Traverse Leap f6C * 2
  CD Boulder 11 TC Areas 10 & 11 - Barbeque Rib - Low Roof - C
157 Glen Campus One f6A+ * 62
158 CD 11 Problem 4 Extension f6B 4
159 Glen Campus Two
-
f6B+ 26
160 Glen Campus Three
-
f6B * 39
161 Glen Campus Four f6B 24
162 Low Roof (Glen Campus) Traverse f7B 28
163 Glen Campus High Traverse
-
f7A * 66
164 ChalkWall
-
f3+ 20
165 Pete's Wall
-
f4+ 6
166 Squeezed Chimney
-
f3+ 26
167 Spare Rib
-
f4 47
168 Barbeque Rib f4+ * 36
169 Stewpot
-
f4 69
170 Crank
-
f5+ 65
171 Crank It f6A 36
172 Rat Run f6B 10
173 Campus link low to high V8+ 1
  Hidden Gem
175 HG Arete f6A+ * 4
176 HG Arete Eliminate f6B 2
177 Hidden Gem f6B * 109
178 Hidden Gem Direct f6B+ * 7
179 Tramway f6A * 3
  CD Boulder 12 TC Area 12 Donner and Blitzen- Millstone Grit
181 CD 12 Problem 1
-
VB 4b 3
182 CD 12 Problem 2
-
V3 5b 4
183 Bonnie's Wall
-
f4+ * 97
184 CD boulder 12, problem 4 V2 ** 11
185 CD 12 Problem 4 Sitter f6A+ ** 6
186 Adolph
-
f6A 53
187 CD 12 Problem 6
-
V1 5b 2
188 B-Team Traverse
-
f6B+ 9
189 Donna
-
f6A 109
190 Rudolph (Millstone) f6C ** 41
191 Millstone Grit f7B *** 26
192 Sleighride f6B+ 10
193 Blitzen
-
f5+ * 79
194 CD 12 Problem 14
-
V3 5c 1
195 CD 12 Problem 15
-
VB 4b 2
  CD Boulder 13 TC Area 13 - Red Wall
197 CD 13 Problem 1
-
f4+ 5
198 Nicely
-
f4+ 26
199 Don't Fall Off
-
f6A 12
200 Last Edition
-
f6A 5
201 Circuit Breaker
-
f6B 3
202 Lurcher
-
f6A 75
203 Lurch
-
f5+ 100
204 Red Wall
-
f6A 52
205 Cracked Rib
-
f5 78
206 Flake Wall
-
f4 86
207 Open Book
-
f3 51
208 Hairline
-
f4+ 72
209 Hairline SDS
-
f5+ * 36
210 Red Wall Traverse f6B 25
211 Prow f5 120
212 CD 13 Problem 15 V2 5c 7
213 Easy Chimney
-
VB 2c 18
214 Un-Original Route
-
f4+ 11
215 Original Route f3 21
216 Banana Flake f3+ * 25
217 Lurched f6B * 1
  CD B 14 TC Areas 14 &15 Nosey Parker Area - Kens Arete - Par
219 Funnywall
-
f6A 5
220 Funny Move
-
f5 24
221 Ken's Arete f6A * 26
222 Mike's Mantle
-
f6A+ * 10
223 Tree Crack
-
VB 4c 28
224 Green Wall
-
f4+ 64
225 Green Arete
-
f4 63
226 CD 14 Problem 9
-
V2 5c 5
227 CD 14 Problem 10
-
V5 6b 1
228 Honey I shrunk the kids. f7B ** 34
229 Honey I Shrunk The Kids (Stand Start) f6A+ * 33
230 The Pinch f7B+ 41
231 Why Crack
-
f4 114
232 Why Crack Right Hand Variant
-
f6A 37
233 Why Crack Sitter f4+ 21
234 Adieu Les Patisseries f6A 56
235 Supermarionation f6C+ 7
236 Sidepull
-
V5 6b 32
237 Side Pull Standing Start f4 41
238 Layback f5 26
239 Parker f7A+ 164
240 Parker SDS f7B+ *** 40
241 Lady Penelope f7B *** 16
242 Lady Penelope, SDS f7C *** 7
243 Nosey
-
f5+ 74
244 Nosey, SDS
-
f6A * 11
245 Short Side
-
f4 33
246 Small Slab L arete f3 4b 66
247 Small Slab Centre
-
f4+ 97
248 Small Slab RH f3+ 63
249 Slab Traverse f6B+ 51
250 Slab Hugger f5+ 4
251 Leaning Slab f4+ 7
252 Backside f5+ 2
253 g f2+ 14
254 Monkey Business f7A 4
  CD Boulder 15 TC Areas 16 & 17 Manson's Wall - Red Baron
256 CD 15 Problem 1 (Big Mid-height traverse) f7A 1
257 Omo f6B * 9
258 White Wash (traverse) f5+ * 2
259 Daz
-
f6A+ * 124
260 Off Stump Wall
-
f4+ 12
261 Stump Crack f2+ 31
262 Manson's Wall f6C *** 159
263 The M-P Integrale f7A 3
264 Phil's Wall f7A+ ** 63
265 Vim
-
f6A+ 112
266 Vim to Omo f5 * 1
267 Smear
-
f6A 94
268 Three Moves Wall
-
f4 57
269 Straight Crack f4 40
270 Undercracker
-
f6B+ 15
271 By-Pass
-
f5+ 23
272 Amalgam
-
f6A+ 12
Climb name Grade
273 Red Baron
-
f7A+ *** 187
274 Red Baron Roof
-
f7C+ ** 31
275 Dead Baron f8A 1
276 Simian Traverse
-
f5+ 12
277 The Gangway
-
f2 40
278 The Dobby
-
f5 17
279 Red Baron Right * V8+ 1
  CD Boulder 16 TC Area 18 Sloping/Slopey Traverse
281 Slopey (JD's) Traverse
-
f7C  
282 CD 16 Problem 2
-
V3 6b  
  TC Area 19 Longy's Traverse
284 Longy's Traverse f7A ** 7
285 Pink Moon f6C * 1
  CD Boulder 17 TC Area 20 - Rupert Bear
287 Mystery Arete
-
f4+ 10
288 Mystery
-
f4+ 13
289 Sam
-
f4 *** 64
290 Rupert Bear
-
f4 * 78
291 Paddy
-
f4 * 65
292 Dendrocopos Roof f6B+ * 5
293 Dendrocopos Wall f5 4
294 Big Break Traverse
-
f4+ 35
295 Fat Arete
-
f5+ 31
296 Generation XXXL f6A 7
297 Fatter Arete f5 44
298 Short and Reachy f4+ 57
299 Mystery Edge f5 1
300 Bustin' Dave f4 3
301 Bustin' Dave Eliminate f5 2
  CD Boulder 18 TC Area 21 Wood's Wall- Manson's Must
303 Al's Arete
-
f5+ 49
304 The Vault
-
f6C+ 5
305 Manson's Must
-
f6B *** 31
306 Wood's Crack f3+ 15
307 Wood's Wall Traverse f5 * 3
308 Raspberry
-
f5+ 39
309 Wood's Arete
-
f5+ 25
310 Wood's Wall End Arete f4+ * 5
311 Wood's Wall
-
f6A 46
312 CD 18 Problem 7
-
V3 5c 8
313 CD 18 Problem 8
-
V4 6a 2
314 Al's Arete Sit f6B 5
  CD Boulder 19 TC Area 22 - Phantom Area- Phantom of the Opera
316 CD 19 Problem 1
-
V3 6a 4
317 Phantom of the Opera f6A+ ** 15
318 Phantom Wall f6B ** 11
319 Phantom Rib
-
f6A 66
320 Phantom
-
f4 28
321 Reaching Out For Sam
-
f5+ 6
322 Phantom Crack
-
f3+ 10
323 Climblox
-
f6B+  
324 Saplink
-
f5+ 22
325 Shipley Yoga f5+ 2
326 Traditional Crack Sit f4+ 2
327 Traditional Crack f3 * 2
328 Without Traditional Crack f4+ * 2
329 Flat Corner f2 5
330 Flat Wall f3 5
331 CD Problem 10 (Phantom Area 19) f5 1
332 Alabaster Jack f7B ** 12
333 Metronome f6C ** 2
  CD Boulder 20 TC Area 23 & 24 - Kia-Ora Wall - Hamill's Horr
335 Green Life f4 10
336 Green Death
-
f6A 9
337 Clopper V3 5c *** 5
338 Clopper Promenade V3 5c+ *** 4
339 Don't Bother f4 6
340 Next Arete
-
f5+ 20
341 Green Traverse f6B+ 17
342 Step Down
-
f6A 15
343 Step Up
-
f5+ 29
344 Old Crack
-
f4 26
345 Interstella Overdrive E2 6a * 7
346 Original Route
-
HS 4b 16
347 Echinococcus E4 6b 4
348 Kia-Ora Wall E1 5b ** 38
349 Brush Off E2 6a 3
350 Old Peter E1 5b * 15
351 Vee Pod f4+ * 7
352 Vee Pod Classic HS 4b 2
353 Classic Rock
-
f3+ 17
354 Glen's Mantle
-
f4+ 32
355 Hammill's Horror f6B+ 3
356 Austin's Hangover
-
f5+ 12
357 CD20 Problem 26 V1 5b 4
358 Autumn Traverse f4 5
359 Good Golly f6B 4
360 Jam Crack
-
f5+ 34
361 The Nobbler
-
f6B+ 6
  CD B 21 TC A 24 & 25 Chipped Hold - Hammil's Horror - Scoop
363 CD 21 Problem 1
-
V2 5c 1
364 Nought To Fear
-
f5+ 18
365 Fearnought
-
f5+ 87
366 Dreadnought
-
f7A 7
367 Deep Chimney
-
f3 24
368 Pillar Rib
-
f5+ 45
369 Pillar Rock
-
f5+ * 37
370 Scoop Arete
-
f5+ * 38
371 Scoop Direct
-
f5+ * 46
372 Scoop
-
f3+ 58
373 Paddy's Saunter
-
M 3a 59
374 K.C Arete f2 19
375 CD 21 Problem 15
-
f3+ 5
  CD B 22 TC A 25,26,27 &28,Scoop Dir,Tiger Wall -Easy W, Gree
377 CD 22 Problem 1 V2 5b 5
378 CD 22 Problem 3 V3 5c+ 6
379 Pirouette
-
f5 * 119
380 Wool Man
-
f5+ * 53
381 Flake Crack
-
VB 2c 31
382 Tiger Wall
-
f5 * 61
383 Shoddy Wall
-
f3+ 34
384 Mouse Wall
-
f6A+ * 55
385 Mouse Arete f6A 1
386 Mouse Wall Wet Weather Traverse. f6A * 4
387 CD 22 Problem 10 V3 5c 1
388 Green Rib
-
f4 24
389 Easy Groove
-
f3+ 53
390 Diagonal
-
f3+ 27
391 Easy Wall
-
f3+ 60
392 CD 22 Problem 15 VB 4b 15
393 Easy Route
-
f3 68
394 Easy-ish Arête
-
f4+ 10
395 The Green Traverse
-
f7A ** 37
396 CD 22 Problem 25 VB easy 12
397 CD 22 Problem 26 VB 4a 14
398 CD 22 Problem 27 VB 4a 11
399 CD 22 Problem 28 VB easy 13
400 Easy-ish Crack/Chimney *
-
f3 1
  CD Boulder 23 - Black Roof
402 CD 23 Problem 1
-
V5 6b 1
403 CD 23 Problem 2
-
V7 6c 1
404 CD 23 Problem 3
-
V7 6c 1
405 CD 23 Problem 4
-
V7 6c 1
  Other Routes
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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