Climbs 377
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces W

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Matt clamping his way up the Yorkshire classic Red Baron (V7) © Jamie Moss

Crag features

Shipley Glen is a treasure of Yorkshire climbing - it should be listed as a World Heritage Site like Saltaire down the tramway.  There is pure bouldering and even some routes but the real specialty of 'The Glen' is the predominance of good old fashioned, tiny holded, old-school high balls.  These are mini-routes that can test technique and commitment in equal measure.  Everything can feel hard for the grade, but in a good way that will stimulate you - the perfect antidote to plastic bucket pulling.

At one time, the crag had a bit of an unsavory reputation but currently it is close to idyllic - the sylvan setting almost equals the quality of the climbing.  The Sun hitting it from the West makes it good early and late in the season; the first or last stolen after work climb of many a year for many.

Pete Jackson attempted to rationalise the amazing variety on offer at Shipley Glen by encouraging contributors to mention the guides they picked the problems from.  This approach has been continued, so:

CD = Cameron Duff 2000
TC = Total Climbing 2008

To borrow from Gladiator, "If you tire of Shipley Glen or start to find the climbs easy, don't worry - you're already dead!"

Approach notes

Park in the parking spots.  Walk down.

There is a lot of broken glass around glen arÍte area
Steve H87 - 04/Dec/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 The Glen 100 TD *** 6
2 The Alternative Circuit D *** 1
  God is Love
4 Jesus Saves
-
f5 5
5 Outreach f5+ 2
6 God Graffiti's
-
f6B 1
7 God is Love
-
f4 7
8 God is Love Traverse
-
f6A 1
9 Sleeping Beauty Sit f6C ** 6
10 Making Up f4 1
11 Wicked Way f4 1
  CD Boulder 1 TC Area 1 - Dog's Dinner Buttress
13 Dogging f5 126
14 Dogger
-
f4+ * 131
15 Dog's Dinner Gully Arete f5 5a * 17
16 Dog's Dinner f4 ** 115
17 Dog's Dinner Direct f5 68
18 Dog's Dinner Right Arete (CD 1 Problem 5) V0 14
  CD Boulder 2 TC Area 2 - Christine's Horror- Kestrel Crack
20 Sparrow Hawk Left f3 6
21 Sparrow Hawk Left Sit f4+ * 7
22 Sparrow Hawk
-
f4 106
23 CD 2 Problem 2 VB 5a+ 11
24 Falcon f5+ ** 105
25 Kestrel Crack f4+ *** 164
26 Fowler f5+ *** 76
27 CD 2 Problem 6 V1 5c 12
28 The Blair Witch f5+ 35
29 Voodoo Doll f6A 53
30 Higher Terra f4+ 50
31 Christine's Horror
-
f4+ 62
32 Tree Traverse f3+ * 2
33 Tree Traverse Eliminate f5 1
  CD Boulder 3 TC Area 3 - Low Block - The Press
35 The Press f4+ 17
36 Low Block Traverse f6B+ 3
37 CD 3 Problem 3 VB 4b 9
38 Slabby Side f3+ 30
39 CD 3 Problem 5 V1 5c * 9
  CD Boulder 4 TC Area 4 - Good Evans
41 CD 4 Problem 1
-
V0 5b 2
42 CD 4 Problem 2
-
V3 6a 3
43 Double D
-
f7A 5
44 CD 4 Problem 4 V5 6b+ 1
45 Wall and Roof f6C * 18
46 Wall and Roof Bail Right f6A * 7
47 Hammer f4 * 72
48 Hammer Sit f5 ** 4
49 Leaper
-
f4 * 75
50 Leaper, SDS f5 38
51 Evans Above
-
f6A+ 35
52 Good Evans f6A 44
53 Gosh f5+ * 13
54 CD 4 Problem 11
-
V0 5b 4
55 CD 4 Problem 13
-
V1 5c 6
56 CD 11 f5 2
57 Low Ledges Sit (CD11 from a sitter) f6A * 2
  CD Boulder 5 TC Area 5 - Charlie Brown -Woodstock
59 Rerun f4 30
60 CD 5 Problem 2
-
V1 5c 5
61 Linus f4+ 43
62 Woodstock f3 48
63 Lucy f5 33
64 Snoopy
-
f5 27
65 CD 5 Problem 7
-
V1 5b 3
66 Wooden Wedge
-
f5+ 26
67 CD 5 Problem 9 TC Problem 7 f6A 7
  CD Boulder 6 - Fool's Mirror
69 CD 6 (Fool's Mirror), Problem 1 V2 5c 2
70 CD 6 Problem 3
-
VB 4c 4
71 Pick Pocket f3+ 22
72 Image
-
f4 18
73 Flute Route f3 * 23
74 Reflection f4 14
75 Fool's Mirror f3+ 17
76 Oboe
-
f5 2
  CD Boulder 7 TC Area 6 - Square Face
78 CD 7 Problem 1
-
f4 6
79 One Hand One Hold
-
f5+ 13
80 Side Step
-
f4 13
81 Central Route
-
f4 22
82 Square Face
-
f4+ 11
83 Layaway f5 23
84 CD 7 Problem 7
-
V5 6b  
  CD Boulder 8 TC Area 7 - YMC Wall- Glen Arete
86 Last Line
-
f4 14
87 Revived 45
-
f5+ 13
88 Fair Lady f6A 13
89 Lancashire Hotpot f6B 7
90 Mike's Wall
-
f5+ 43
91 CD 8 Problem 6
-
V4 6a 3
92 The Glen Arete Left f5 ** 9
93 The Glen Arete
-
f4 * 158
94 YMC Wall
-
f4 * 190
95 Groovy
-
f4+ 115
96 Faint Heart f4+ 108
97 Jimmy Jump
-
f4 70
98 Mini Arete f4 74
99 Left Edge
-
f4+ 148
100 Left Edge Sitter
-
f5+ 16
101 The Hole
-
f4 144
102 The Hole Sitter
-
f5+ 13
103 Hole Lotta Love f6A 4
104 Chart Topper
-
f5+ 79
105 CD 8 Problem 16 V0 5a+ 18
106 CD 8 Problem 17
-
VB 4c 16
107 Golden Oldie Left Arete Sitter f5+ 13
108 Golden Oldie f4 197
109 Golden Oldie, SDS
-
f5+ 90
110 Golden Oldie Wall Sitter f5+ * 20
111 CD 8 Problem 19 VB 5a 27
112 Block Traverse
-
f6C 30
113 Last Minute f4 4
114 Last Orders f5 3
115 Last Train Home f5 3
116 Last But Not Least f4 6
117 Final Chapter f5 2
  CD Boulder 9 TC Area 8 - John Area- Grooved Arete
119 Stretch
-
f4 84
120 Grooved Arete
-
f3 196
121 Reach for the Sky
-
f4+ 216
122 Reach for the Pie f4 147
123 Wall L of Tree f4 18
124 Wall L of Tree Eliminate f5 7
125 Kate's Horror
-
f2+ 167
126 Kate's Horror Eliminate f4 11
127 Kate's Horror Eliminate II f5+ 3
128 TC 8 Unnamed Traverse f6C 14
129 Stump
-
f4 128
130 TC 8b Problem 2 f4 67
131 Gensing
-
f3 200
132 John
-
f4 227
133 CD 9 Problem 10 V3 5c+ 17
134 The John Traverse
-
f5 33
135 John's Footless Traverse - John Area, CD Problem 11 V5 6a * 2
Climb name Grade
136 TC 8b Wooden Wedge f5+ 42
137 CD 9 Problem 12 V2 5c 11
  CD Boulder 10 TC Area 9 - Leaper Roof
139 Lemming f4 79
140 Jug for a Thug
-
f5 * 203
141 Leaper
-
f5+ * 159
142 Leaper Roof Extension (TC 9a Problem 3) f6A 12
143 Leaper Leap V0 5b 7
144 Leaper Leap Footless V1 5b 5
145 Leaper Roof, Problem 4 V3 6a 18
146 Leaper Roof, Problem 5 V2 6a 12
147 Leaper Roof, Problem 6 V2 5c 15
148 Lemur f6A 57
149 Lemur C f6B 13
  Leaper Traverse
151 Leaper Traverse f6A ** 145
152 CD 11 Problem 2 f6B 18
153 Leaper Footless Traverse V2 5b 3
154 Leaper Eliminate Traverse
-
f6C 57
155 Leaper Traverse Leap f6C * 2
  CD Boulder 11 TC Areas 10 & 11 - Barbeque Rib - Low Roof - C
157 Glen Campus One f6A+ * 60
158 CD 11 Problem 4 Extension f6B 4
159 Glen Campus Two
-
f6B+ 24
160 Glen Campus Three
-
f6B * 38
161 Glen Campus Four f6B 24
162 Low Roof (Glen Campus) Traverse f7B 28
163 Glen Campus High Traverse
-
f7A * 66
164 ChalkWall
-
f3+ 20
165 Pete's Wall
-
f4+ 6
166 Squeezed Chimney
-
f3+ 26
167 Spare Rib
-
f4 46
168 Barbeque Rib f4+ * 36
169 Stewpot
-
f4 69
170 Crank
-
f5+ 65
171 Crank It f6A 36
172 Rat Run f6B 10
173 Campus link low to high V8+  
  Hidden Gem
175 HG Arete f6A+ * 4
176 HG Arete Eliminate f6B 2
177 Hidden Gem f6B * 104
178 Hidden Gem Direct f6B+ * 7
179 Tramway f6A * 3
  CD Boulder 12 TC Area 12 Donner and Blitzen- Millstone Grit
181 CD 12 Problem 1
-
VB 4b 3
182 CD 12 Problem 2
-
V3 5b 4
183 Bonnie's Wall
-
f4+ * 97
184 CD boulder 12, problem 4 V2 ** 11
185 CD 12 Problem 4 Sitter f6A+ ** 6
186 Adolph
-
f6A 53
187 CD 12 Problem 6
-
V1 5b 2
188 B-Team Traverse
-
f6B+ 9
189 Donna
-
f6A 109
190 Rudolph (Millstone) f6C ** 41
191 Millstone Grit f7B *** 26
192 Sleighride f6B+ 10
193 Blitzen
-
f5+ * 79
194 CD 12 Problem 14
-
V3 5c 1
195 CD 12 Problem 15
-
VB 4b 2
  CD Boulder 13 TC Area 13 - Red Wall
197 CD 13 Problem 1
-
f4+ 5
198 Nicely
-
f4+ 26
199 Don't Fall Off
-
f6A 12
200 Last Edition
-
f6A 5
201 Circuit Breaker
-
f6B 3
202 Lurcher
-
f6A 74
203 Lurch
-
f5+ 97
204 Red Wall
-
f6A 51
205 Cracked Rib
-
f5 76
206 Flake Wall
-
f4 83
207 Open Book
-
f3 51
208 Hairline
-
f4+ 70
209 Hairline SDS
-
f5+ * 36
210 Red Wall Traverse f6B 24
211 Prow f5 119
212 CD 13 Problem 15 V2 5c 7
213 Easy Chimney
-
VB 2c 18
214 Un-Original Route
-
f4+ 11
215 Original Route f3 21
216 Banana Flake f3+ * 25
217 Lurched f6B * 1
  CD B 14 TC Areas 14 &15 Nosey Parker Area - Kens Arete - Par
219 Funnywall
-
f6A 5
220 Funny Move
-
f5 24
221 Ken's Arete f6A * 26
222 Mike's Mantle
-
f6A+ * 10
223 Tree Crack
-
VB 4c 28
224 Green Wall
-
f4+ 63
225 Green Arete
-
f4 62
226 CD 14 Problem 9
-
V2 5c 5
227 CD 14 Problem 10
-
V5 6b 1
228 Honey I shrunk the kids. f7B ** 34
229 Honey I Shrunk The Kids (Stand Start) f6A+ * 30
230 The Pinch f7B+ 38
231 Why Crack
-
f4 113
232 Why Crack Right Hand Variant
-
f6A 34
233 Why Crack Sitter f4+ 20
234 Adieu Les Patisseries f6A 53
235 Supermarionation f6C+ 7
236 Sidepull
-
V5 6b 30
237 Side Pull Standing Start f4 40
238 Layback f5 25
239 Parker f7A+ 157
240 Parker SDS f7B+ *** 40
241 Lady Penelope f7B *** 16
242 Lady Penelope, SDS f7C *** 7
243 Nosey
-
f5+ 73
244 Nosey, SDS
-
f6A * 10
245 Short Side
-
f4 33
246 Small Slab L arete f3 4b 66
247 Small Slab Centre
-
f4+ 97
248 Small Slab RH f3+ 63
249 Slab Traverse f6B+ 51
250 Slab Hugger f5+ 4
251 Leaning Slab f4+ 7
252 Backside f5+ 2
253 g f2+ 14
254 Monkey Business f7A 4
  CD Boulder 15 TC Areas 16 & 17 Manson's Wall - Red Baron
256 CD 15 Problem 1 (Big Mid-height traverse) f7A 1
257 Omo f6B * 9
258 White Wash (traverse) f5+ * 2
259 Daz
-
f6A+ * 122
260 Off Stump Wall
-
f4+ 12
261 Stump Crack f2+ 31
262 Manson's Wall f6C *** 152
263 The M-P Integrale f7A 1
264 Phil's Wall f7A+ ** 61
265 Vim
-
f6A+ 109
266 Vim to Omo f5 * 1
267 Smear
-
f6A 94
268 Three Moves Wall
-
f4 55
269 Straight Crack f4 36
270 Undercracker
-
f6B+ 15
Climb name Grade
271 By-Pass
-
f5+ 21
272 Amalgam
-
f6A+ 11
273 Red Baron
-
f7A+ *** 182
274 Red Baron Roof
-
f7C+ ** 27
275 Dead Baron f8A 1
276 Simian Traverse
-
f5+ 12
277 The Gangway
-
f2 40
278 The Dobby
-
f5 17
  CD Boulder 16 TC Area 18 Sloping/Slopey Traverse
280 Slopey (JD's) Traverse
-
f7C  
281 CD 16 Problem 2
-
V3 6b  
  TC Area 19 Longy's Traverse
283 Longy's Traverse f7A ** 7
284 Pink Moon f6C * 1
  CD Boulder 17 TC Area 20 - Rupert Bear
286 Mystery Arete
-
f4+ 10
287 Mystery
-
f4+ 13
288 Sam
-
f4 *** 63
289 Rupert Bear
-
f4 * 77
290 Paddy
-
f4 * 64
291 Dendrocopos Roof f6B+ * 5
292 Dendrocopos Wall f5 4
293 Big Break Traverse
-
f4+ 34
294 Fat Arete
-
f5+ 29
295 Generation XXXL f6A 5
296 Fatter Arete f5 43
297 Short and Reachy f4+ 55
298 Mystery Edge f5 1
299 Bustin' Dave f4 3
300 Bustin' Dave Eliminate f5 2
  CD Boulder 18 TC Area 21 Wood's Wall- Manson's Must
302 Al's Arete
-
f5+ 48
303 The Vault
-
f6C+ 5
304 Manson's Must
-
f6B *** 30
305 Wood's Crack f3+ 15
306 Wood's Wall Traverse f5 * 3
307 Raspberry
-
f5+ 39
308 Wood's Arete
-
f5+ 25
309 Wood's Wall End Arete f4+ * 5
310 Wood's Wall
-
f6A 46
311 CD 18 Problem 7
-
V3 5c 7
312 CD 18 Problem 8
-
V4 6a 2
313 Al's Arete Sit f6B 4
  CD Boulder 19 TC Area 22 - Phantom Area- Phantom of the Opera
315 CD 19 Problem 1
-
V3 6a 4
316 Phantom of the Opera f6A+ ** 15
317 Phantom Wall f6B ** 11
318 Phantom Rib
-
f6A 66
319 Phantom
-
f4 28
320 Reaching Out For Sam
-
f5+ 6
321 Phantom Crack
-
f3+ 10
322 Climblox
-
f6B+  
323 Saplink
-
f5+ 22
324 Shipley Yoga f5+ 2
325 Traditional Crack Sit f4+ 2
326 Traditional Crack f3 * 2
327 Without Traditional Crack f4+ * 2
328 Flat Corner f2 5
329 Flat Wall f3 5
330 CD Problem 10 (Phantom Area 19) f5 1
331 Alabaster Jack f7B ** 12
332 Metronome f6C ** 2
  CD Boulder 20 TC Area 23 & 24 - Kia-Ora Wall - Hamill's Horr
334 Green Life f4 10
335 Green Death
-
f6A 9
336 Clopper V3 5c *** 5
337 Clopper Promenade V3 5c+ *** 4
338 Don't Bother f4 6
339 Next Arete
-
f5+ 20
340 Green Traverse f6B+ 16
341 Step Down
-
f6A 15
342 Step Up
-
f5+ 27
343 Old Crack
-
f4 26
344 Interstella Overdrive E2 6a * 7
345 Original Route
-
HS 4b 16
346 Echinococcus E4 6b 4
347 Kia-Ora Wall E1 5b ** 38
348 Brush Off E2 6a 3
349 Old Peter E1 5b * 15
350 Vee Pod f4+ * 7
351 Vee Pod Classic HS 4b 2
352 Classic Rock
-
f3+ 17
353 Glen's Mantle
-
f4+ 32
354 Hammill's Horror f6B+ 3
355 Austin's Hangover
-
f5+ 12
356 CD20 Problem 26 V1 5b 4
357 Autumn Traverse f4 5
358 Good Golly f6B 4
359 Jam Crack
-
f5+ 33
360 The Nobbler
-
f6B+ 6
  CD B 21 TC A 24 & 25 Chipped Hold - Hammil's Horror - Scoop
362 CD 21 Problem 1
-
V2 5c 1
363 Nought To Fear
-
f5+ 18
364 Fearnought
-
f5+ 85
365 Dreadnought
-
f7A 7
366 Deep Chimney
-
f3 23
367 Pillar Rib
-
f5+ 45
368 Pillar Rock
-
f5+ * 37
369 Scoop Arete
-
f5+ * 38
370 Scoop Direct
-
f5+ * 46
371 Scoop
-
f3+ 56
372 Paddy's Saunter
-
M 3a 57
373 K.C Arete f2 16
374 CD 21 Problem 15
-
f3+ 5
  CD B 22 TC A 25,26,27 &28,Scoop Dir,Tiger Wall -Easy W, Gree
376 CD 22 Problem 1 V2 5b 5
377 CD 22 Problem 3 V3 5c+ 6
378 Pirouette
-
f5 * 117
379 Wool Man
-
f5+ * 53
380 Flake Crack
-
VB 2c 30
381 Tiger Wall
-
f5 * 61
382 Shoddy Wall
-
f3+ 34
383 Mouse Wall
-
f6A+ * 54
384 Mouse Arete f6A 1
385 Mouse Wall Wet Weather Traverse. f6A * 4
386 CD 22 Problem 10 V3 5c 1
387 Green Rib
-
f4 24
388 Easy Groove
-
f3+ 53
389 Diagonal
-
f3+ 25
390 Easy Wall
-
f3+ 60
391 CD 22 Problem 15 VB 4b 14
392 Easy Route
-
f3 68
393 Easy-ish Arête
-
f4+ 10
394 The Green Traverse
-
f7A ** 35
395 CD 22 Problem 25 VB easy 12
396 CD 22 Problem 26 VB 4a 14
397 CD 22 Problem 27 VB 4a 11
398 CD 22 Problem 28 VB easy 13
  CD Boulder 23 - Black Roof
400 CD 23 Problem 1
-
V5 6b 1
401 CD 23 Problem 2
-
V7 6c 1
402 CD 23 Problem 3
-
V7 6c 1
403 CD 23 Problem 4
-
V7 6c 1
  Other Routes

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