Climbs 370
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces W

Rainbow over Shipley Glen © Simon Richardson

Crag features

Shipley Glen is a treasure of Yorkshire climbing - it should be listed as a World Heritage Site like Saltaire down the tramway.  There is pure bouldering and even some routes but the real specialty of 'The Glen' is the predominance of good old fashioned, tiny holded, old-school high balls.  These are mini-routes that can test technique and commitment in equal measure.  Everything can feel hard for the grade, but in a good way that will stimulate you - the perfect antidote to plastic bucket pulling.

At one time, the crag had a bit of an unsavory reputation but currently it is close to idyllic - the sylvan setting almost equals the quality of the climbing.  The Sun hitting it from the West makes it good early and late in the season; the first or last stolen after work climb of many a year for many.

Pete Jackson attempted to rationalise the amazing variety on offer at Shipley Glen by encouraging contributors to mention the guides they picked the problems from.  This approach has been continued, so:

CD = Cameron Duff 2000
TC = Total Climbing 2008

To borrow from Gladiator, "If you tire of Shipley Glen or start to find the climbs easy, don't worry - you're already dead!"

Approach notes

Park in the parking spots.  Walk down.

There is a lot of broken glass around glen arÍte area
Steve H87 - 04/Dec/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 The Glen 100 TD *** 4
  God is Love
3 Jesus Saves
-
f5 3
4 God Graffiti's
-
f6B  
5 God is Love
-
f4 5
6 God is Love Traverse
-
f6A  
7 Sleeping Beauty Sit f6C ** 5
8 Making Up f4  
9 Wicked Way f4  
  CD Boulder 1 TC Area 1 - Dog's Dinner Buttress
11 Dogging f5 112
12 Dogger
-
f4+ * 117
13 Dog's Dinner Gully Arete f5 5a * 10
14 Dog's Dinner f4 ** 106
15 Dog's Dinner Direct f5 59
16 Dog's Dinner Right Arete (CD 1 Problem 5) V0 11
  CD Boulder 2 TC Area 2 - Christine's Horror- Kestrel Crack
18 Sparrow Hawk Left f3 4
19 Sparrow Hawk Left Sit f4+ * 2
20 Sparrow Hawk
-
f4 94
21 CD 2 Problem 2 VB 5a+ 8
22 Falcon f5+ ** 96
23 Kestrel Crack f4+ *** 149
24 Fowler f5+ *** 70
25 CD 2 Problem 6 V1 5c 10
26 The Blair Witch f5+ 30
27 Voodoo Doll f6A 48
28 Higher Terra f4+ 42
29 Christine's Horror
-
f4+ 56
30 Tree Traverse f3+ * 1
31 Tree Traverse Eliminate f5 1
  CD Boulder 3 TC Area 3 - Low Block - The Press
33 The Press f4+ 14
34 Low Block Traverse f6B+ 3
35 CD 3 Problem 3 VB 4b 7
36 Slabby Side f3+ 26
37 CD 3 Problem 5 V1 5c * 8
  CD Boulder 4 TC Area 4 - Good Evans
39 CD 4 Problem 1
-
V0 5b 1
40 CD 4 Problem 2
-
V3 6a 3
41 Double D
-
f7A 5
42 CD 4 Problem 4 V5 6b+ 1
43 Wall and Roof f6C * 16
44 Wall and Roof Bail Right f6A * 6
45 Hammer f4 * 66
46 Hammer Sit f5 ** 2
47 Leaper
-
f4 * 71
48 Leaper, SDS f5 34
49 Evans Above
-
f6A+ 32
50 Good Evans f6A 41
51 Gosh f5+ * 11
52 CD 4 Problem 11
-
V0 5b 3
53 CD 4 Problem 13
-
V1 5c 5
54 CD 11 f5 1
55 Low Ledges Sit (CD11 from a sitter) f6A * 1
  CD Boulder 5 TC Area 5 - Charlie Brown -Woodstock
57 Rerun f4 26
58 CD 5 Problem 2
-
V1 5c 4
59 Linus f4+ 38
60 Woodstock f3 42
61 Lucy f5 27
62 Snoopy
-
f5 21
63 CD 5 Problem 7
-
V1 5b 2
64 Wooden Wedge
-
f5+ 21
65 CD 5 Problem 9 TC Problem 7 f6A 6
  CD Boulder 6 - Fool's Mirror
67 CD 6 (Fool's Mirror), Problem 1 V2 5c 2
68 CD 6 Problem 3
-
VB 4c 3
69 Pick Pocket f3+ 18
70 Image
-
f4 15
71 Flute Route f3 * 20
72 Reflection f4 11
73 Fool's Mirror f3+ 14
  CD Boulder 7 TC Area 6 - Square Face
75 CD 7 Problem 1
-
f4 4
76 One Hand One Hold
-
f5+ 9
77 Side Step
-
f4 10
78 Central Route
-
f4 18
79 Square Face
-
f4+ 7
80 Layaway f5 19
81 CD 7 Problem 7
-
V5 6b  
  CD Boulder 8 TC Area 7 - YMC Wall- Glen Arete
83 Last Line
-
f4 11
84 Revived 45
-
f5+ 10
85 Fair Lady f6A 11
86 Lancashire Hotpot f6B 6
87 Mike's Wall
-
f5+ 38
88 CD 8 Problem 6
-
V4 6a 2
89 The Glen Arete Left f5 ** 6
90 The Glen Arete
-
f4 * 151
91 YMC Wall
-
f4 * 180
92 Groovy
-
f4+ 109
93 Faint Heart f4+ 103
94 Jimmy Jump
-
f4 65
95 Mini Arete f4 67
96 Left Edge
-
f4+ 138
97 Left Edge Sitter
-
f5+ 13
98 The Hole
-
f4 139
99 The Hole Sitter
-
f5+ 10
100 Hole Lotta Love f6A 2
101 Chart Topper
-
f5+ 74
102 CD 8 Problem 16 V0 5a+ 15
103 CD 8 Problem 17
-
VB 4c 14
104 Golden Oldie Left Arete Sitter f5+ 10
105 Golden Oldie f4 186
106 Golden Oldie, SDS
-
f5+ 81
107 Golden Oldie Wall Sitter f5+ * 13
108 CD 8 Problem 19 VB 5a 24
109 Block Traverse
-
f6C 30
110 Last Minute f4 4
111 Last Orders f5 3
112 Last Train Home f5 3
113 Last But Not Least f4 6
114 Final Chapter f5 2
  CD Boulder 9 TC Area 8 - John Area- Grooved Arete
116 Stretch
-
f4 79
117 Grooved Arete
-
f3 180
118 Reach for the Sky
-
f4+ 205
119 Reach for the Pie f4 132
120 Wall L of Tree f4 9
121 Wall L of Tree Eliminate f5 4
122 Kate's Horror
-
f2+ 158
123 Kate's Horror Eliminate f4 5
124 Kate's Horror Eliminate II f5+ 2
125 TC 8 Unnamed Traverse f6C 14
126 Stump
-
f4 116
127 TC 8b Problem 2 f4 55
128 Gensing
-
f3 179
129 John
-
f4 209
130 CD 9 Problem 10 V3 5c+ 16
131 The John Traverse
-
f5 32
132 John's Footless Traverse - John Area, CD Problem 11 V5 6a * 2
133 TC 8b Wooden Wedge f5+ 39
Climb name Grade
134 CD 9 Problem 12 V2 5c 10
  CD Boulder 10 TC Area 9 - Leaper Roof
136 Lemming f4 67
137 Jug for a Thug
-
f5 * 183
138 Leaper
-
f5+ * 145
139 Leaper Roof Extension (TC 9a Problem 3) f6A 12
140 Leaper Leap V0 5b 6
141 Leaper Leap Footless V1 5b 4
142 Leaper Roof, Problem 4 V3 6a 17
143 Leaper Roof, Problem 5 V2 6a 10
144 Leaper Roof, Problem 6 V2 5c 13
145 Lemur f6A 53
146 Lemur C f6B 6
  Leaper Traverse
148 Leaper Traverse f6A ** 134
149 CD 11 Problem 2 f6B 17
150 Leaper Footless Traverse V2 5b 2
151 Leaper Eliminate Traverse
-
f6C 52
  CD Boulder 11 TC Areas 10 & 11 - Barbeque Rib - Low Roof - C
153 Glen Campus One f6A+ * 58
154 CD 11 Problem 4 Extension f6B 4
155 Glen Campus Two
-
f6B+ 20
156 Glen Campus Three
-
f6B * 35
157 Glen Campus Four f6B 22
158 Low Roof (Glen Campus) Traverse f7B 28
159 Glen Campus High Traverse
-
f7A * 60
160 ChalkWall
-
f3+ 17
161 Pete's Wall
-
f4+ 4
162 Squeezed Chimney
-
f3+ 24
163 Spare Rib
-
f4 43
164 Barbeque Rib f4+ * 33
165 Stewpot
-
f4 62
166 Crank
-
f5+ 58
167 Crank It f6A 35
168 Rat Run f6B 10
169 Campus link low to high V8+  
  Hidden Gem
171 HG Arete f6A+ * 3
172 HG Arete Eliminate f6B 1
173 Hidden Gem f6B * 87
174 Hidden Gem Direct f6B+ * 5
175 Tramway f6A * 2
  CD Boulder 12 TC Area 12 Donner and Blitzen- Millstone Grit
177 CD 12 Problem 1
-
VB 4b 3
178 CD 12 Problem 2
-
V3 5b 4
179 Bonnie's Wall
-
f4+ * 89
180 CD boulder 12, problem 4 V2 ** 10
181 CD 12 Problem 4 Sitter f6A+ ** 4
182 Adolph
-
f6A 50
183 CD 12 Problem 6
-
V1 5b 2
184 B-Team Traverse
-
f6B+ 9
185 Donna
-
f6A 101
186 Rudolph (Millstone) f6C ** 41
187 Millstone Grit f7B *** 26
188 Sleighride f6B+ 10
189 Blitzen
-
f5+ * 73
190 CD 12 Problem 14
-
V3 5c 1
191 CD 12 Problem 15
-
VB 4b 2
  CD Boulder 13 TC Area 13 - Red Wall
193 CD 13 Problem 1
-
f4+ 4
194 Nicely
-
f4+ 23
195 Don't Fall Off
-
f6A 9
196 Last Edition
-
f6A 4
197 Circuit Breaker
-
f6B 2
198 Lurcher
-
f6A 68
199 Lurch
-
f5+ 86
200 Red Wall
-
f6A 49
201 Cracked Rib
-
f5 68
202 Flake Wall
-
f4 73
203 Open Book
-
f3 47
204 Hairline
-
f4+ 67
205 Hairline SDS
-
f5+ * 31
206 Red Wall Traverse f6B 23
207 Prow f5 108
208 CD 13 Problem 15 V2 5c 7
209 Easy Chimney
-
VB 2c 16
210 Un-Original Route
-
f4+ 10
211 Original Route f3 20
212 Banana Flake f3+ * 21
  CD B 14 TC Areas 14 &15 Nosey Parker Area - Kens Arete - Par
214 Funnywall
-
f6A 4
215 Funny Move
-
f5 21
216 Ken's Arete f6A * 24
217 Mike's Mantle
-
f6A+ * 10
218 Tree Crack
-
VB 4c 27
219 Green Wall
-
f4+ 58
220 Green Arete
-
f4 60
221 CD 14 Problem 9
-
V2 5c 4
222 CD 14 Problem 10
-
V5 6b 1
223 Honey I shrunk the kids. f7B ** 34
224 Honey I Shrunk The Kids (Stand Start) f6A+ * 27
225 The Pinch f7B+ 36
226 Why Crack
-
f4 103
227 Why Crack Right Hand Variant
-
f6A 32
228 Why Crack Sitter f4+ 16
229 Adieu Les Patisseries f6A 46
230 Supermarionation f6C+ 6
231 Sidepull
-
V5 6b 27
232 Side Pull Standing Start f4 30
233 Layback f5 22
234 Parker f7A+ 149
235 Parker SDS f7B+ *** 37
236 Lady Penelope f7B *** 15
237 Lady Penelope, SDS f7C *** 6
238 Nosey
-
f5+ 67
239 Nosey, SDS
-
f6A * 10
240 Short Side
-
f4 28
241 Small Slab L arete f3 4b 57
242 Small Slab Centre
-
f4+ 83
243 Small Slab RH f3+ 53
244 Slab Traverse f6B+ 45
245 Slab Hugger f5+ 4
246 Leaning Slab f4+ 5
247 Backside f5+ 2
248 g f2+ 8
249 Monkey Business f7A 3
  CD Boulder 15 TC Areas 16 & 17 Manson's Wall - Red Baron
251 CD 15 Problem 1 (Big Mid-height traverse) f7A 1
252 Omo f6B * 8
253 White Wash (traverse) f5+ * 1
254 Daz
-
f6A+ * 116
255 Off Stump Wall
-
f4+ 12
256 Stump Crack f2+ 27
257 Manson's Wall f6C *** 150
258 The M-P Integrale f7A 1
259 Phil's Wall f7A+ ** 59
260 Vim
-
f6A+ 104
261 Vim to Omo f5 * 1
262 Smear
-
f6A 92
263 Three Moves Wall
-
f4 52
264 Straight Crack f4 33
265 Undercracker
-
f6B+ 13
266 By-Pass
-
f5+ 19
Climb name Grade
267 Amalgam
-
f6A+ 11
268 Red Baron
-
f7A+ *** 178
269 Red Baron Roof
-
f7C+ ** 26
270 Dead Baron f8A 1
271 Simian Traverse
-
f5+ 11
272 The Gangway
-
f2 38
273 The Dobby
-
f5 16
  CD Boulder 16 TC Area 18 Sloping/Slopey Traverse
275 Slopey (JD's) Traverse
-
f7C  
276 CD 16 Problem 2
-
V3 6b  
  TC Area 19 Longy's Traverse
278 Longy's Traverse f7A ** 5
279 Pink Moon f6C * 1
  CD Boulder 17 TC Area 20 - Rupert Bear
281 Mystery Arete
-
f4+ 9
282 Mystery
-
f4+ 10
283 Sam
-
f4 *** 57
284 Rupert Bear
-
f4 * 69
285 Paddy
-
f4 * 58
286 Dendrocopos Roof f6B+ * 4
287 Dendrocopos Wall f5 4
288 Big Break Traverse
-
f4+ 28
289 Fat Arete
-
f5+ 23
290 Generation XXXL f6A 3
291 Fatter Arete f5 37
292 Short and Reachy f4+ 44
293 Mystery Edge f5 1
294 Bustin' Dave f4 2
295 Bustin' Dave Eliminate f5 2
  CD Boulder 18 TC Area 21 Wood's Wall- Manson's Must
297 Al's Arete
-
f5+ 48
298 The Vault
-
f6C+ 5
299 Manson's Must
-
f6B *** 30
300 Wood's Crack f3+ 14
301 Wood's Wall Traverse f5 * 3
302 Raspberry
-
f5+ 37
303 Wood's Arete
-
f5+ 23
304 Wood's Wall End Arete f4+ * 4
305 Wood's Wall
-
f6A 45
306 CD 18 Problem 7
-
V3 5c 6
307 CD 18 Problem 8
-
V4 6a 2
308 Al's Arete Sit f6B 4
  CD Boulder 19 TC Area 22 - Phantom Area- Phantom of the Opera
310 CD 19 Problem 1
-
V3 6a 4
311 Phantom of the Opera f6A+ ** 14
312 Phantom Wall f6B ** 10
313 Phantom Rib
-
f6A 62
314 Phantom
-
f4 25
315 Reaching Out For Sam
-
f5+ 6
316 Phantom Crack
-
f3+ 10
317 Climblox
-
f6B+  
318 Saplink
-
f5+ 19
319 Shipley Yoga f5+ 2
320 Traditional Crack Sit f4+ 2
321 Traditional Crack f3 * 1
322 Without Traditional Crack f4+ * 1
323 Flat Corner f2 4
324 Flat Wall f3 4
325 CD Problem 10 (Phantom Area 19) f5 1
326 Alabaster Jack f7B ** 12
327 Metronome f6C ** 2
  CD Boulder 20 TC Area 23 & 24 - Kia-Ora Wall - Hamill's Horr
329 Green Life f4 10
330 Green Death
-
f6A 9
331 Clopper V3 5c *** 5
332 Clopper Promenade V3 5c+ *** 4
333 Don't Bother f4 5
334 Next Arete
-
f5+ 19
335 Green Traverse f6B+ 16
336 Step Down
-
f6A 14
337 Step Up
-
f5+ 25
338 Old Crack
-
f4 25
339 Interstella Overdrive E2 6a * 6
340 Original Route
-
HS 4b 16
341 Echinococcus E4 6b 3
342 Kia-Ora Wall E1 5b ** 33
343 Brush Off E2 6a 3
344 Old Peter E1 5b * 15
345 Vee Pod f4+ * 7
346 Vee Pod Classic HS 4b 2
347 Classic Rock
-
f3+ 16
348 Glen's Mantle
-
f4+ 32
349 Hammill's Horror f6B+ 3
350 Austin's Hangover
-
f5+ 12
351 CD20 Problem 26 V1 5b 4
352 Autumn Traverse f4 5
353 Good Golly f6B 3
354 Jam Crack
-
f5+ 31
355 The Nobbler
-
f6B+ 5
  CD B 21 TC A 24 & 25 Chipped Hold - Hammil's Horror - Scoop
357 CD 21 Problem 1
-
V2 5c 1
358 Nought To Fear
-
f5+ 17
359 Fearnought
-
f5+ 76
360 Dreadnought
-
f7A 5
361 Deep Chimney
-
f3 20
362 Pillar Rib
-
f5+ 42
363 Pillar Rock
-
f5+ * 33
364 Scoop Arete
-
f5+ * 37
365 Scoop Direct
-
f5+ * 42
366 Scoop
-
f3+ 52
367 Paddy's Saunter
-
M 3a 53
368 K.C Arete f2 15
369 CD 21 Problem 15
-
f3+ 5
  CD B 22 TC A 25,26,27 &28,Scoop Dir,Tiger Wall -Easy W, Gree
371 CD 22 Problem 1 V2 5b 5
372 CD 22 Problem 3 V3 5c+ 6
373 Pirouette
-
f5 * 110
374 Wool Man
-
f5+ * 49
375 Flake Crack
-
VB 2c 26
376 Tiger Wall
-
f5 * 52
377 Shoddy Wall
-
f3+ 32
378 Mouse Wall
-
f6A+ * 49
379 Mouse Wall Wet Weather Traverse. f6A * 3
380 CD 22 Problem 10 V3 5c 1
381 Green Rib
-
f4 23
382 Easy Groove
-
f3+ 49
383 Diagonal
-
f3+ 24
384 Easy Wall
-
f3+ 54
385 CD 22 Problem 15 VB 4b 14
386 Easy Route
-
f3 62
387 Easy-ish Arête
-
f4+ 3
388 The Green Traverse
-
f7A ** 32
389 CD 22 Problem 25 VB easy 10
390 CD 22 Problem 26 VB 4a 11
391 CD 22 Problem 27 VB 4a 9
392 CD 22 Problem 28 VB easy 11
  CD Boulder 23 - Black Roof
394 CD 23 Problem 1
-
V5 6b 1
395 CD 23 Problem 2
-
V7 6c 1
396 CD 23 Problem 3
-
V7 6c 1
397 CD 23 Problem 4
-
V7 6c 1
  Other Routes

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