Climbs 99
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 370m a.s.l
Faces W

Ed Brown leading Oedipus (E3 6a). © Guy Maddox

Crag features

Lovely setting, sheltered and sunny; reasonable mid-grade trad routes and now a bunch of generally easier short sport climbs.

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Guidebooks

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire covers some of the best limestone crags in the UK including the big three of Malham, Kilnsey and Gordale. Alongside these titans are numerous other destinations that offer both sport and trad climbing throughout the grades, ranging from the intimidating walls of Blue Scar and Trow Gill to the long lines of newly-developed low to mid-grade sport crags such as Moughton Nab and Giggleswick South. Trad climbing is also well catered for on the walls and escarpments at the likes of Trowbarrow Quarry, Twistleton Scar, Attermire Scar and Witches Quarry.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Yorkshire Limestone (2005)

Out of print:
The start of Candy's Case is now a bit harder as a good lay away hold broke off yesterday at the top of the right hand crack between bolt 1 & 2 :-(
Christheclimber - 06/Jul/17
Candy's Case is now a bit harder at the start as a good lay away hold broke off between bolt 1 & 2........ sorry :-(
Christheclimber - 05/Jul/17
The normal approach to High Stoney Bank described in Rockfax is rather long and following the left bank of the stream (river?) is not that easy. Far better to strike directly across to the crag from the "lone Tree" (the alternative approach mentioned in Rockfax).
roger whetton - 02/Jul/17
First bolt on "Come On (Sport)" (aka "Come on Come on) is loose, needs a spanner.
Geofffn - 17/Apr/15
4th or 5th Bolt up, just before the break under the overhang on Paranoid Eyes has fallen off. Nut, washer and bolt unscrewed themselves from the wall, screw still intact in the wall. Just so you know. Its obvious when you get under the route.
Simmo576 - 16/May/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  High Stoney Bank - Left
  Mastiles Buttress
3 Not to be Sniffed At 6a 23
4 Cara
-
VS 4c * 1
5 Mastiles Lane
-
S 4a * 1
6 Workers Playtime 6a 18
7 Clocking On 6a * 31
8 Clocking Off 6b * 31
9 Arbitration 4c * 30
  Perched Block Buttress
11 Mutton Jeff 5c 56
12 Lamb Chops 5a 59
13 Meaty Options (Left) 6b * 28
14 Meaty Options (Right) 6a * 27
15 Mist over Malham 5c * 53
16 Platting Fog 6a+ 24
17 Stone of Tears 6a 12
18 Stone of Tears (sport) 6a * 46
19 Pinnacle Flake 6a+ 32
20 High Flyer 6a+ * 53
21 King Flush 6a+ * 48
22 Kings of the Stone Age 6a+ * 30
23 What Remains 5c 43
24 It's Showtime Folks! 6a+ 6
25 The Inevitable Diagonal 5c 6
  High Stoney Bank - Right
27 Barbed Envy
-
HS 4b 3
28 Unnatural Practice
-
VS 4c 3
29 Debauchery
-
VS 4c * 12
30 Latrina Direct
-
VS 5a 1
31 Latrina
-
HS 4b ** 6
32 Post Point Five Blues
-
HVS 5b 1
33 Dyre
-
HS 4a 5
34 Depravity
-
HS 4b * 7
35 Incest
-
VS 4c * 9
36 Necrophilia
-
HVS 5a * 8
37 Dead Kinky 6b+ * 15
38 Squirm Crack
-
VS 4c * 3
39 Offwidth Their Heads 6b+ * 13
40 Laius 7a+ * 1
41 Laius (sport) 7a+ * 1
42 Jocasta (Sport) 7b *** 26
43 Oedipus E3 6a ** 4
44 Candy's Case 6b+ *** 65
45 Diver's Groove Direct
-
HVS 5a 5
46 Diver's Groove
-
MVS 4b 1
47 Mr Shifter (sport) 6a+ * 59
48 The Shifty Start 6c+ 2
49 Summertime(and the weather is lousy) 6b * 60
50 Tight Fit 6c+ 4
51 Burlesque 7a *** 53
52 Sodom Direct Start
-
HVS 5a 2
53 The Bela Start 7a 5
54 Zoar 6a 65
55 Sodom MVS 4b 3
56 The Straight and Narrow 6a * 76
57 Gomorrah
-
VS 4b * 12
58 Hors d'Oeuvres 6b+ 3
59 Judgement and Justice 6c+ 4
60 Pillar of salt 6a+ 43
61 Lust
-
VS 4c 3
62 Stony Broke 6c * 27
63 Come On (Sport) 6b+ ** 43
64 Headless Hammer 6b+ * 31
65 Yew Climb S 4a 3
  Platypus Buttress
67 Harlot 7a+ * 4
68 Crazy Little Devil 7a * 9
69 The Jericho Incident 6c+ * 6
70 Wicked Ways 6c * 6
71 Berlin 7b * 3
  Low Stoney Bank
73 Marginal Path 7a 2
74 Thai Bride 6a 5
75 2010 6b+ 6
76 Ogowayama Layback
-
HVS 5b 1
77 Ogowayama Direct Start HVS 5a 2
78 Optical Illusion 6b+ 5
79 KD
-
HVS 5a 2
80 Optic Nerve 6c+ ** 13
81 Vanishing Point E3 6a *** 1
82 An Eye for the Elegant 7a ** 10
83 Pigs on the Wing (trad) E4 ** 1
84 Pigs on the Wing 7a+ * 2
85 Pushing the Limpet (trad) E3 5c  
86 Pushing the Limpet 6c+ * 11
87 Frequent Flyer 7a * 14
88 A Play of Light 7a+ ** 5
89 Visionhurry 6c ** 36
90 Paranoid Eyes 6c+ ** 30
91 Cliptomania 7b ** 15
92 Happy Wanderer HVS 5a * 3
93 Tumeric Variation E1 5b 1
94 Cave Route Upper Left-hand 6b 6
95 Cave Route Upper Hand 6b+ ** 36
96 Pulling into Focus 7a 5
97 Prince Nez 6a+ * 43
98 South Crag Eliminate 6b+ 8
99 Norwegian Wood 6b+ * 28
100 Rich as Cresus 6a+ 24
101 Hidden Wall 6c+ 2
102 The Abbatoir 6b 3
  Stump Wall
104 A Little Trip to Heaven 6b+ 2
105 A Touch of Magic 7a 1
106 Hope and a Little Sugar 7a+ 1

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