Climbs 111
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 370m a.s.l
Faces W

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Ed Brown leading Oedipus (E3 6a). © Guy Maccdox

Crag features

Lovely setting, sheltered and sunny; reasonable mid-grade trad routes and now a bunch of generally easier short sport climbs.

Access Advice

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Breeding Ravens. This site is regularly monitored and fledging often occurs here by early May so the restriction may be lifted earlier than the date mentioned above. Keep checking this page for updates.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire covers some of the best limestone crags in the UK including the big three of Malham, Kilnsey and Gordale. Alongside these titans are numerous other destinations that offer both sport and trad climbing throughout the grades, ranging from the intimidating walls of Blue Scar and Trow Gill to the long lines of newly-developed low to mid-grade sport crags such as Moughton Nab and Giggleswick South. Trad climbing is also well catered for on the walls and escarpments at the likes of Trowbarrow Quarry, Twistleton Scar, Attermire Scar and Witches Quarry.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Yorkshire Limestone (2005)

Out of print:
The start of Candy's Case is now a bit harder as a good lay away hold broke off yesterday at the top of the right hand crack between bolt 1 & 2 :-(
Christheclimber - 06/Jul/17
Candy's Case is now a bit harder at the start as a good lay away hold broke off between bolt 1 & 2........ sorry :-(
Christheclimber - 05/Jul/17
The normal approach to High Stoney Bank described in Rockfax is rather long and following the left bank of the stream (river?) is not that easy. Far better to strike directly across to the crag from the "lone Tree" (the alternative approach mentioned in Rockfax).
roger whetton - 02/Jul/17
First bolt on "Come On (Sport)" (aka "Come on Come on) is loose, needs a spanner.
Geofffn - 17/Apr/15
4th or 5th Bolt up, just before the break under the overhang on Paranoid Eyes has fallen off. Nut, washer and bolt unscrewed themselves from the wall, screw still intact in the wall. Just so you know. Its obvious when you get under the route.
Simmo576 - 16/May/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  High Stoney Bank - Left
  Mastiles Buttress
3 Not to be Sniffed At 6a 24
4 Cara
-
VS 4c * 2
5 Mastiles Lane
-
S 4a * 2
6 Workers Playtime 6a 17
7 Clocking On 6a * 33
8 Clocking Off 6b * 31
9 Arbitration 4c * 46
  Perched Block Buttress
11 Mutton Jeff 5c 65
12 Lamb Chops 5a 74
13 Meaty Options (Left) 6b * 31
14 Meaty Options (Right) 6a * 30
15 Mist over Malham 5c * 69
16 Platting Fog 6a+ 30
17 Stone of Tears 6a 17
18 Stone of Tears (sport) 6a * 55
19 Pinnacle Flake 6a+ 41
20 High Flyer 6a+ * 67
21 King Flush 6a+ * 58
22 Kings of the Stone Age 6a+ * 33
23 What Remains 5c 53
24 It's Showtime Folks! 6a+ 6
25 The Inevitable Diagonal 5c 6
  Central Wall
27 Barbed Envy
-
HS 4b 3
28 Unnatural Practice
-
VS 4c 4
29 A Peck on the Cheek 6b * 2
30 Lip Service 6c **  
31 French Kiss E3 5c ** 2
32 Debauchery
-
VS 4c * 13
33 Latrina
-
HS 4b 6
34 Latrina Direct 6a+ * 3
35 Royal Flush 6c+ *  
36 Post Point Five Blues 6b+ * 3
37 Whet 6b * 3
38 Dyre
-
HS 4a 5
39 Ben Dover 5b ** 2
40 Cavity Wall 6c * 1
Climb name Grade
41 Phil McCavity 6b ** 3
42 Depravity
-
HS 4b * 8
43 Short But Pumpy 6b+ ** 3
44 Incest
-
VS 4c * 10
45 Nicest 6a ** 3
46 Necrophilia
-
HVS 5a * 9
47 Dead Kinky 6b+ * 18
  High Stoney Bank - Right
49 Squirm Crack
-
VS 4c * 4
50 Offwidth Their Heads 6b+ * 16
51 Laius 7a+ * 2
52 Laius (sport) 7a+ * 1
53 Jocasta (Sport) 7b *** 36
54 Oedipus E3 6a ** 4
55 Candy's Case 6b+ *** 79
56 Diver's Groove Direct
-
HVS 5a 5
57 Diver's Groove
-
MVS 4b 1
58 Mr Shifter (sport) 6a+ * 76
59 The Shifty Start 6c+ 4
60 Summertime(and the weather is lousy) 6b * 71
61 Tight Fit 6c+ 5
62 Burlesque 7a *** 67
63 Caricature 7a **  
64 Sodom Direct Start
-
HVS 5a 2
65 The Bela Start 7a 7
66 Zoar 6a 73
67 Sodom MVS 4b 4
68 The Straight and Narrow 6a * 92
69 Gomorrah
-
VS 4b * 16
70 Hors d'Oeuvres 6b+ 4
71 Judgement and Justice 6c+ 5
72 Pillar of salt 6a+ 48
73 Lust
-
VS 4c 3
74 Stony Broke 6c * 31
75 Come On (Sport) 6b+ ** 53
76 Headless Hammer 6b+ * 36
77 Yew Climb S 4a 3
  Platypus Buttress
79 Harlot 7a+ * 5
80 Crazy Little Devil 7a * 9
Climb name Grade
81 The Jericho Incident 6c+ * 6
82 Wicked Ways 6c * 6
83 Berlin 7b * 3
  Low Stoney Bank
85 Marginal Path 7a 2
86 Thai Bride 6a 7
87 2010 6b+ 7
88 Ogowayama Layback
-
HVS 5b 1
89 Ogowayama Direct Start HVS 5a 2
90 Optical Illusion 6b+ 6
91 KD
-
HVS 5a 2
92 Optic Nerve 6c+ ** 16
93 Vanishing Point E3 6a *** 1
94 An Eye for the Elegant 7a ** 13
95 An Eye for Optics 7a ** 1
96 Pigs on the Wing (trad) E4 ** 1
97 Pigs on the Wing 7a+ * 2
98 Pushing the Limpet (trad) E3 5c  
99 Pushing the Limpet 6c+ * 12
100 Frequent Flyer 7a * 16
101 A Play of Light 7a+ ** 7
102 Visionhurry 6c ** 40
103 Paranoid Eyes 6c+ ** 39
104 Cliptomania 7b ** 18
105 Happy Wanderer HVS 5a * 3
106 Tumeric Variation E1 5b 1
107 Cave Route Upper Left-hand 6b 7
108 Cave Route Upper Hand 6b+ ** 41
109 Pulling into Focus 7a 5
110 Prince Nez 6a+ * 51
111 South Crag Eliminate 6b+ 9
112 Norwegian Wood 6b+ * 36
113 Rich as Cresus 6a+ 29
114 Hidden Wall 6c+ 2
115 The Abbatoir 6b 3
  Stump Wall
117 A Little Trip to Heaven 6b+ 2
118 A Touch of Magic 7a 1
119 Hope and a Little Sugar 7a+ 1

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