Climbs 78
Rocktype Culm

Faces W

Latching the top of trench eliminate © Ed Mabon

Crag features

Tidal bouldering, only cut off for an hour either side of high tide. Problems of all grades up to 8a, with an emphasis on the harder
problems.

Trad routes to be found on www.javu.co.uk.

Bouldering Guide to be found here: http://www.rockrun.com/wp/hartland-quay-bouldering-miniguide/ or on www.javu.co.uk

The trench is full of pebbles after the winter storms and a lot of the problems are much shorter now with different easier grades. There is even a boulder under the dyno making it more of a jump. With sit starts you can just about do the original routes....
Chad123 - 09/Jul/14
The starting handholds and the starting heel hook of Ache Ball have both broken off at some point (I guess during the winter storms). What's left is a much better heel hook and, maybe, better starting handholds too. May well take the grade down to 7C.
jakes - 06/Apr/10
An amazing looking horizontal roof crack project exists in the Ache Ball cave. A must for any crack climbing wads.
jakes - 02/Sep/09
FOUND LOTS OF EASIER GRADE BOULDERING GOOD TRAVERSE AROUND THROUGH THE CAVE .THE TRENCH ALMOST DIRECTLY OUTSIDE THE CAVE NEEDS SOME INSPECTION TOO . DONT BE PUT OFF BY COMMENTS OF HARDER PROBLEMS!.
chunk - 04/Oct/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 North of the Hotel 
 Broad Beach 
3Hartline
-
VS 4b  
4Quaywi
-
VS 4b  
5The Quick and the Dead
-
E3 5b  
 Bear Rock 
7Gripped by the BeastE6 6a ** 
8Barely Possible
-
VS 4b 1
 Bran Flake area 
10Consolation
-
D 3
11Fibres EdgeE1 5a  
12Cereal KillerE5 6b ** 
13Grizzly BearE3 5b 1
14Crunchy Nut CrackE1 5b 1
15Gloss over the Mattf7C * 
 Autumn Gold Wall 
17FirethornE4 6a ** 
18Autumn GoldE2 5c * 
19Broken FaceE1 5b  
 Winter Wonderland 
21MADE IN THE SHADEE4 6a/b ** 
22Hartland Aretef5+ *8
23Quay to the Hartf6C+ 2
24KALEIT NEMARAE3 6a * 
25NUCKELAVEEE4 6b ** 
26SHAPE SHIFTERHVS 5b  
27BROKEN BLINKVS 4b  
 Clinical Edge Area 
29Pocket Aretef6A+ *26
30Easy Wallf4 *22
31Clinical Edgef7B **54
32Me Julief7B *22
33Egg Nishnaf7B 14
34One MoveV1 4
35Ball Achef7B *15
36Clinical Traverse
-
f7B+ ***1
37Juggy Traversef6B *5
 Ache Ball Cave 
39Ache Ballf7C+ **28
40Ballin'f7C 1
41Aching Balls
-
f8A **1
42Ache Ball Traversef7A+ *10
43Ache Ball Traverse Extensonf7B+ *2
44The Krakenf8B  
45Crystal MazeA2 1
46Floodgate *f8B ***1
 The Trench 
48Trench Wallf5 **44
49Trench Crackf4+ *61
50Jas' Wall (Left-Hand)f5+ 69
51Jas' Wallf5+ **75
52Trench UndercutV4+ 3
53Trench Eliminatef7A *69
54Trench Dynof6C *34
55Bloody Noraf6C+ 48
56Trenchfootf7A 25
57Trench Traversef7B *5
58Opposite TraverseV0- 1
 Warren Cliff 
60Stag Night Fright
-
XS 5a  
61Jerusalem
-
XS 5b  
 South of the Hotel 
 Hartland Cave 
64Quay WallV7 2
65Problem 3 (D W's guide)
-
f6B  
66Raindancef7B 2
67Sundancef7A+ 1
68Hartland Bulge LeftV4 3
69Hartland Bulge MiddleV4 3
70Hartland Bulge RightV4+ 4
 Carnage Wall 
72The Aretef6A 3
73100mphf7C+ ***1
74Carnagef7B ***51
75People of the Shiref8A ** 
76Corridors of Powerf7C ***17
77Supercedef8A ***4
78Supercede Stand
-
f7C+ ***2
79Northern Exposuref7B **1
80Misguided Ghostsf6C+ 2
81Freddie Freeloaderf6C+ **6
 Shae's Tooth (aka Rhinoceros Boulder) 
83Hartland Pillarf5+ 3
84Full powerf6C *16
85Total Powerf7A **15
86Slight Groovef6B **11
87Braunton Wanderersf7B **4
 Hartland Roof 
89 Hartland Rooff7B+ *1
90 Brutal Spoonf7A+ *2
 St Catherine's Point 
92Contortionf7B+ **1
93The Revolution is Comingf8A ***1
94The End is Nighf8A ***9
 Not yet located 
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers jakes and Mark Kemball