Climbs 80
Rocktype Culm

Faces W

Latching the top of trench eliminate © Ed Mabon

Crag features

Tidal bouldering, only cut off for an hour either side of high tide. Problems of all grades up to 8a, with an emphasis on the harder
problems.

Trad routes to be found on www.javu.co.uk.

Bouldering Guide to be found here: http://www.rockrun.com/wp/hartland-quay-bouldering-miniguide/ or on www.javu.co.uk

The trench is full of pebbles after the winter storms and a lot of the problems are much shorter now with different easier grades. There is even a boulder under the dyno making it more of a jump. With sit starts you can just about do the original routes....
Chad123 - 09/Jul/14
The starting handholds and the starting heel hook of Ache Ball have both broken off at some point (I guess during the winter storms). What's left is a much better heel hook and, maybe, better starting handholds too. May well take the grade down to 7C.
jakes - 06/Apr/10
An amazing looking horizontal roof crack project exists in the Ache Ball cave. A must for any crack climbing wads.
jakes - 02/Sep/09
FOUND LOTS OF EASIER GRADE BOULDERING GOOD TRAVERSE AROUND THROUGH THE CAVE .THE TRENCH ALMOST DIRECTLY OUTSIDE THE CAVE NEEDS SOME INSPECTION TOO . DONT BE PUT OFF BY COMMENTS OF HARDER PROBLEMS!.
chunk - 04/Oct/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  North of the Hotel
  Broad Beach
3 Hartline
-
VS 4b  
4 Quaywi
-
VS 4b  
5 The Quick and the Dead
-
E3 5b  
  Bear Rock
7 Gripped by the Beast E6 6a **  
8 Barely Possible
-
VS 4b 1
  Bran Flake area
10 Consolation
-
D 2
11 Fibres Edge E1 5a  
12 Cereal Killer E5 6b **  
13 Grizzly Bear E3 5b 1
14 Crunchy Nut Crack E1 5b 1
15 Gloss over the Matt f7C *  
  Autumn Gold Wall
17 Firethorn E4 6a **  
18 Autumn Gold E2 5c *  
19 Broken Face E1 5b  
  Winter Wonderland
21 MADE IN THE SHADE E4 6a/b **  
22 Hartland Arete f5+ * 8
23 Quay to the Hart f6C+ 2
24 KALEIT NEMARA E3 6a *  
25 NUCKELAVEE E4 6b **  
26 SHAPE SHIFTER HVS 5b  
27 BROKEN BLINK VS 4b  
  Clinical Edge Area
29 Pocket Arete f6A+ * 29
30 Easy Wall f4 * 26
31 Clinical Edge f7B ** 57
32 Me Julie f7B * 22
33 Egg Nishna f7B 15
34 One Move V1 7
35 Ball Ache f7B * 16
36 Clinical Traverse
-
f7B+ *** 1
37 Juggy Traverse f6B * 5
  Ache Ball Cave
39 Ache Ball f7C+ ** 25
40 Floodgate f8B *** 1
41 Ballin' f7C 2
42 Aching Balls
-
f8A ** 1
43 Ache Ball Traverse f7A+ * 9
44 Ache Ball Traverse Extenson f7B+ * 2
45 The Kraken f8B  
46 Crystal Maze A2 1
  The Trench
48 Trench Wall f5 ** 48
49 Trench Crack f4+ * 64
50 Jas' Wall (Left-Hand) f5+ 72
51 Jas' Wall f5+ ** 81
52 Trench Undercut V4+ 6
53 Trench Eliminate f7A * 76
54 Trench Dyno f6C * 37
55 Bloody Nora f6C+ 51
56 Trenchfoot f7A 25
57 Trench Traverse f7B * 5
58 Opposite Traverse V0- 1
  Warren Cliff
60 Stag Night Fright
-
XS 5a  
61 Jerusalem
-
XS 5b  
  South of the Hotel
  Hartland Cave
64 Quay Wall V7 2
65 Problem 3 (D W's guide)
-
f6B  
66 Raindance f7B 2
67 Sundance f7A+ 1
68 Hartland Bulge Left V4 3
69 Hartland Bulge Middle V4 3
70 Hartland Bulge Right V4+ 4
  Carnage Wall
72 The Arete f6A 3
73 100mph f7C+ *** 1
74 Carnage f7B *** 53
75 People of the Shire f8A **  
76 Corridors of Power f7C *** 15
77 Supercede f8A *** 4
78 Supercede Stand
-
f7C+ *** 2
79 Northern Exposure f7B ** 1
80 Misguided Ghosts f6C+ 2
81 Freddie Freeloader f6C+ ** 6
  Shae's Tooth (aka Rhinoceros Boulder)
83 Hartland Pillar f5+ 3
84 Full power f6C * 16
85 Total Power f7A ** 15
86 Slight Groove f6B ** 11
87 Braunton Wanderers f7B ** 4
  Hartland Roof
89 Hartland Roof f7B+ * 1
90 Brutal Spoon f7A+ * 2
  St Catherine's Point
92 The Revolution is Coming f8A *** 1
93 Disclaimer dyno V5 *  
94 The End is Nigh f8A *** 12
95 Contortion f7B+ ** 1
96 Distortion V5 *  
  Not yet located

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