Climbs 77
Rocktype Culm

Faces W

Latching the top of trench eliminate © Ed Mabon

Crag features

Tidal bouldering, only cut off for an hour either side of high tide. Problems of all grades up to 8a, with an emphasis on the harder
problems.

Trad routes to be found on www.javu.co.uk.

Bouldering Guide to be found here: http://www.rockrun.com/wp/hartland-quay-bouldering-miniguide/ or on www.javu.co.uk

The trench is full of pebbles after the winter storms and a lot of the problems are much shorter now with different easier grades. There is even a boulder under the dyno making it more of a jump. With sit starts you can just about do the original routes....
Chad123 - 09/Jul/14
The starting handholds and the starting heel hook of Ache Ball have both broken off at some point (I guess during the winter storms). What's left is a much better heel hook and, maybe, better starting handholds too. May well take the grade down to 7C.
jakes - 06/Apr/10
An amazing looking horizontal roof crack project exists in the Ache Ball cave. A must for any crack climbing wads.
jakes - 02/Sep/09
FOUND LOTS OF EASIER GRADE BOULDERING GOOD TRAVERSE AROUND THROUGH THE CAVE .THE TRENCH ALMOST DIRECTLY OUTSIDE THE CAVE NEEDS SOME INSPECTION TOO . DONT BE PUT OFF BY COMMENTS OF HARDER PROBLEMS!.
chunk - 04/Oct/05
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 North of the Hotel 
 Broad Beach 
3Hartline
-
VS 4b  
4Quaywi
-
VS 4b  
5The Quick and the Dead
-
E3 5b  
 Bear Rock 
7Gripped by the BeastE6 6a ** 
8Barely Possible
-
VS 4b 1
 Bran Flake area 
10Consolation
-
D  
11Fibres EdgeE1 5a  
12Cereal KillerE5 6b ** 
13Grizzly BearE3 5b 1
14Crunchy Nut CrackE1 5b 1
15Gloss over the Mattf7C * 
 Autumn Gold Wall 
17FirethornE4 6a ** 
18Autumn GoldE2 5c * 
19Broken FaceE1 5b  
 Winter Wonderland 
21MADE IN THE SHADEE4 6a/b ** 
22Hartland Aretef5+ *8
23Quay to the Hartf6C+ 2
24KALEIT NEMARAE3 6a * 
25NUCKELAVEEE4 6b ** 
26SHAPE SHIFTERHVS 5b  
27BROKEN BLINKVS 4b  
 Clinical Edge Area 
29Pocket Aretef6A+ *24
30Easy Wallf4 *22
31Clinical Edgef7B **49
32Me Julief7B *22
33Egg Nishnaf7B 14
34One MoveV1 4
35Ball Achef7B *15
36Clinical Traverse
-
f7B+ ***1
37Juggy Traversef6B *5
 Ache Ball Cave 
39Ache Ballf7C+ **22
40Ballin'f7C 1
41Aching Balls
-
f8A **1
42Ache Ball Traversef7A+ *8
43Ache Ball Traverse Extensonf7B+ *2
44The Krakenf8B  
45Crystal MazeA2 1
 The Trench 
47Trench Wallf5 **40
48Trench Crackf4+ *54
49Jas' Wall (Left-Hand)f5+ 62
50Jas' Wallf5+ **68
51Trench UndercutV4+ 3
52Trench Eliminatef7A *62
53Trench Dynof6C *33
54Bloody Noraf6C+ 45
55Trenchfootf7A 24
56Trench Traversef7B *3
57Opposite TraverseV0- 1
 Warren Cliff 
59Stag Night Fright
-
XS 5a  
60Jerusalem
-
XS 5b  
 South of the Hotel 
 Hartland Cave 
63Quay WallV7 2
64Problem 3 (D W's guide)
-
f6B  
65Raindancef7B 2
66Sundancef7A+ 1
67Hartland Bulge LeftV4 1
68Hartland Bulge MiddleV4 1
69Hartland Bulge RightV4+ 2
 Carnage Wall 
71The Aretef6A 2
72100mphf7C+ ***1
73Carnagef7B ***51
74People of the Shiref8A ** 
75Corridors of Powerf7C ***17
76Supercedef8A ***4
77Supercede Stand
-
f7C+ ***2
78Northern Exposuref7B **1
79Misguided Ghostsf6C+ 2
80Freddie Freeloaderf6C+ **6
 Shae's Tooth (aka Rhinoceros Boulder) 
82Hartland Pillarf5+ 3
83Full powerf6C *15
84Total Powerf7A **15
85Slight Groovef6B **10
86Braunton Wanderersf7B **4
 Hartland Roof 
88 Hartland Rooff7B+ *1
89 Brutal Spoonf7A+ *2
 St Catherine's Point 
91Contortionf7B+ **1
92The Revolution is Comingf8A ***1
93The End is Nighf8A ***9
 Not yet located 

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers jakes and Mark Kemball