Climbs 93
Rocktype Culm

Faces W

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Latching the top of trench eliminate © Ed Mabon

Crag features

Tidal bouldering, only cut off for an hour either side of high tide. Problems of all grades up to 8a, with an emphasis on the harder
problems.

Trad routes to be found on www.javu.co.uk.

Bouldering Guide to be found here: http://www.rockrun.com/wp/hartland-quay-bouldering-miniguide/ or on www.javu.co.uk

The trench is full of pebbles after the winter storms and a lot of the problems are much shorter now with different easier grades. There is even a boulder under the dyno making it more of a jump. With sit starts you can just about do the original routes....
Chad123 - 09/Jul/14
The starting handholds and the starting heel hook of Ache Ball have both broken off at some point (I guess during the winter storms). What's left is a much better heel hook and, maybe, better starting handholds too. May well take the grade down to 7C.
jakes - 06/Apr/10
An amazing looking horizontal roof crack project exists in the Ache Ball cave. A must for any crack climbing wads.
jakes - 02/Sep/09
FOUND LOTS OF EASIER GRADE BOULDERING GOOD TRAVERSE AROUND THROUGH THE CAVE .THE TRENCH ALMOST DIRECTLY OUTSIDE THE CAVE NEEDS SOME INSPECTION TOO . DONT BE PUT OFF BY COMMENTS OF HARDER PROBLEMS!.
chunk - 04/Oct/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  North of the Hotel
  Broad Beach
3 Hartline
-
VS 4b 1
4 Quaywi
-
VS 4b 1
5 The Quick and the Dead
-
E3 5b  
  Bear Rock
7 Gripped by the Beast E6 6a **  
8 Barely Possible
-
VS 4b 1
  Bran Flake area
10 Consolation
-
D 4
11 Fibres Edge E1 5a  
12 Cereal Killer E5 6b **  
13 Grizzly Bear E3 5b 2
14 Gloss over the Matt f7C * 1
  Autumn Gold Wall
16 Firethorn E4 6a **  
17 Autumn Gold E2 5c *  
18 Broken Face E1 5b  
  Winter Wonderland
20 MADE IN THE SHADE E4 6a/b **  
21 Hartland Arete f5+ * 13
22 Quay to the Hart f6C+ 2
23 KALEIT NEMARA E3 6a *  
24 NUCKELAVEE E4 6b **  
25 SHAPE SHIFTER HVS 5b  
26 BROKEN BLINK VS 4b  
  Clinical Edge Area
28 Pocket Arete f6A+ * 44
29 Easy Wall f4 * 36
30 Clinical Edge f7B ** 69
31 Me Julie f7B * 24
32 Egg Nishna f7B 19
33 One Move V1 14
34 Ball Ache f7B * 22
35 Clinical Traverse
-
f7B+ *** 1
36 Juggy Traverse f6B * 6
Climb name Grade
  Ache Ball Cave
38 Ache Ball f7C+ ** 30
39 Floodgate f8B *** 1
40 Ballin' f7C 5
41 Aching Balls
-
f8A ** 1
42 Ache Ball Traverse f7A+ * 10
43 Ache Ball Traverse Extenson f7B+ * 2
44 The Kraken f8B  
45 Crystal Maze A2 1
  The Trench
47 Trench Wall f5 ** 69
48 Trench Crack f4+ * 90
49 Jas' Wall (Left-Hand) f5+ 98
50 Jas' Wall f5+ ** 108
51 Trench Warfare f7B ** 1
52 Trench Undercut V4+ 9
53 Trench Eliminate f7A * 100
54 Trench Eliminate sit start f7A+ ** 3
55 Trench Dyno f6C * 41
56 Bloody Nora f6C+ 72
57 Bloody Nora Sit Start f6C+ 2
58 Trenchfoot f7A 30
59 Trenchfoot sit start
-
f7A 2
60 Trench Traverse f7B * 5
61 Opposite Traverse V0- 4
62 No Mans Land f7A 1
  Warren Cliff
64 Stag Night Fright
-
XS 5a  
65 Jerusalem
-
XS 5b  
  The Pub
67 Douglas Jeffery Memorial Wall f4 3
  South of the Hotel
  Hartland Cave
70 Quay Wall V7 2
71 Problem 3 (D W's guide)
-
f6B  
72 Raindance f7B 2
73 Sundance f7A+ 1
Climb name Grade
74 Hartland Bulge Left V4 3
75 Hartland Bulge Middle V4 3
76 Hartland Bulge Right V4+ 4
  Carnage Wall
78 The Arete f6A 3
79 100mph f7C+ *** 1
80 Carnage f7B *** 65
81 People of the Shire f8A ** 2
82 Corridors of Power f7C *** 23
83 Supercede f8A *** 6
84 Supercede Stand
-
f7C+ *** 5
85 The Vault f8B *** 2
86 Northern Exposure f7B ** 1
87 Misguided Ghosts f6C+ 2
88 Freddie Freeloader f6C+ ** 10
89 Autobahn * f8A+ ** 1
90 Superpower * f8A+ *** 1
  Shae's Tooth (aka Rhinoceros Boulder)
92 Hartland Pillar f5+ 3
93 Full power f6C * 25
94 Total Power f7A ** 25
95 Slight Groove f6B ** 15
96 Braunton Wanderers f7B ** 7
97 Perfect Jug f6C+ * 2
98 Rhino Traverse f7B ** 1
99 Problem 7 (Javu) f7A 2
  Hartland Roof
101 Hartland Roof f7B+ * 1
102 Brutal Spoon f7A+ * 4
  St Catherine's Point
104 The Revolution is Coming f8A *** 3
105 The Revolution is Nigh f8A * 1
106 The End of the Revolution f8A+ *** 2
107 The End is Nigh f8A *** 15
108 Disclaimer dyno V5 *  
109 Contortion f7B+ ** 1
110 Distortion V5 *  
  Not yet located
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers jakes and Mark Kemball