Standedge Quarry

Climbs 53
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces SW

Cloud tsunami crashes into the Pennine hills © craig h

Crag features

A good crag but better suited to short solos and bouldering. The main quarry is barely climbed anymore, which is a shame as there are some good (ish) routes but appear loose and corroded. The bouldering, however, is excellent and a great circuit all along the edge can be worked out giving a good few hours worth of quality problems. Some, such as Terradaktil (E1 5b) are very high and demanding and a spotter and mat is required. stand out problems/solos are Terradaktil (E1 5b), Space Trip (HVS, 5a), problems around the hidden wall area and the problems in 'the place sheep go to die'. Consult the Huddersfield area guide for a more comrehensive list.

Rain Dog.

Approach notes

No access problems at present. I believe access has always been given and have never encountered anything to the contrary.

Update this Crag

Last updated on 04/Oct/2016

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Guidebooks

Lancashire Rock (2016)
Over the Moors (2012)
Lancashire Rock (1999)
Kirklees Climbing Website

Out of print:

Huddersfield Area (2002)

Update Guidebooks

Loads more problems in the Kirklees guide that arnt on this UKC page. Download it; website below.... jules699 - 22/Jul/14
the eastern problems and main quarry are on private land- keep the noise down to prevent incurring the wrath of the local farmer. Once over the final stile (or kissing gate as it is now) the boulders lie on access land below the pennine way- the first of these being "the place sheep go to die" I have never seen any dead sheep there and I wouldn't want to- the sheep on that moor belong to me!! The Kirklees guide is excellent. Tibbort - 23/Jul/13
Newly updated guide available here: http://www.kirkleesclimbing.co.uk/standedge schloosh - 04/Dec/12
Great bouldering along the edge, Square, Cheese Block and 'Sit Start' area well worth the walk in, nice and peaceful, quality problems - excellent views :-) PD - 19/Jun/12
The bouldering is ace, as is the view. The quarry however makes Worlow look like Millstone Edge... Hardonicus - 01/Jun/09
Forget about the quarry and head along the Pennie Way for some bouldering along the edge. Pack your Huddersfield Bouldering Guide and enjoy. Alex Thompson - 04/Mar/08

Climbs at this crag

	Climb name		Grade
	Small Quarry
2	Short Line		V1	3
3	Thin Line		V1	2
4	Pennine Arete		D	6
	Main Quarry
6	Wall and Crack	-	VS 4c	3
7	Firefrost		S 4a	2
8	Watching the Detectives	-	VS 4c	2
9	Footless Oasis	-	VS 4c	1
10	The Flake of the Floating Light	-	S 4a	3
11	The Pennine Way		none	3
12	James' Coconut Bong	-	V1	10
13	Little Red Corsa	-	V2	1
14	Slight Rib	-	V4	1
15	Direct Past Dished Pocket	-	V2	4
16	Slab via Small Pocket	-	V0	20
17	High Traverse	-	V0-	10
18	Easy Slabby Wall		f3	1
	The Place Sheep Go to Die
20	Small Nose		f3	2

	Climb name		Grade
21	Dead Sheap Traverse	-	V1 *	17
22	Overhanging Arete	-	V1	14
23	Thin Crack	-	V0-	18
24	Bulge and Crack	-	V4	1
25	Left Bulge	-	V1 *	19
26	Right Bulge	-	V1 *	24
27	Blind Crack	-	V1	18
28	Right Wall	-	V0	25
	Trig Point Boulders
30	The Arete	-	V0-	23
31	The Wall	-	V1	19
32	Jamming Crack	-	V0-	23
33	Blind Flake	-	V0-	23
	Hidden Wall
35	Green Grasper	-	V0	10
36	Terrordaktil	-	V2 **	4
37	Route 21	-	V1 *	10
38	Left Wall	-	V0 *	15
39	Rigodunum	-	V1	14
40	Hand Crack	-	V0	18

	Climb name		Grade
41	Finger Jam Corner	-	V0	19
42	Thin Crack (Hidden Wall)	-	V1 *	17
43	Flake Crack	-	V0	18
44	Eliminate the Wall	-	V0	16
45	There and Back	-	V1 *	9
46	Testing Top	-	V0	18
	Square and Cheese Block
48	Arete		f5	7
49	Wall		V1	8
50	Eliminate Wall		V0-	11
51	Central Line		V0	8
52	Right Line		V0	7
53	Overhang		V3	6
54	Problem 41 in Over the Moors BMC	-	V1	5
55	OTM Problem 42 'Traverse'		V2	7
56	The Right Face		f5	3
	To be checked
58	Crinkly Wall	-	V0-	7
59	Bulge	-	V0	6
60	Sleepy Hollow		f6B+ *	2

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