Climbs 12
Rocktype Shale
Altitude 1m a.s.l
Faces SE

Pilchard Cove, Devon. 'Route 4' © andy_pemberton

Crag features

BEWARE OF THE NAKED ELDERLY

Slab climbing on a mixture of bolts, in situ gear, and good cam placements (cracks). Long sleeves should be worn as most of the routes are spattered with thorn bushes. Caution as some of the bolts and lower offs seem to have been lost to flaking rock and land slip.

Approach notes

Near the village of Strete between Dartmouth and Torcross on the A379. There is a car park half a mile south of strete (Stretegate). The climb is at the North end of the cove.

Access Advice

Near the village of Strete between Dartmouth and Torcross on the A379. There is a car park half a mile south of strete (Stretegate). The climb is at the North end of the cove.

Please note this is a popular nudist beach due to it's remote location, mainly consisting of the elderly, so please be polite, and use discretion on taking children here.

There now appear to be a few bolted routes here as well.
Fatclimber - 27/Jul/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Pilchard Groove *
-
HS 4b 4
2 Route 3 * HVS 5a 3
3 Route 4 * HS 4b * 4
4 Pilchard Groove - direct finish * HVS 5a 2
5 Lovely arete * V1 5a * 1
6 Cracks * VB 4a 1
7 Diagon Cooper * HVS 5b ** 1
8 Todger (route 2) * 6b * 1
9 Shiver Me Tinkers * 6b 1
10 Cock Ring * 4c 1
11 Route 5 * none  
12 Route 6 * none  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer TheGuns