Climbs 40
Rocktype Slate

Faces W

Morwell Rocks Crags © Kafoozalem

Crag features

There is no need to pay £5. Access is sensitive so keep a low profile. Once you have reached your chosen crag you are unlikely to be disturbed except for Weir Buttress. Although the crag won't be to everyone's taste there are a number of good climbs here and many of them are in superb situations. It received a unnecessarily negative and bilious write up in Nick White's guidebook considering some of the other crags described.

Obviously such a dense woodland is at risk of fire, so no naked flames please!

2016 Recommended restored routes ... Cold Grief, Maybe Tomorrow, Thor, Damaged Goods. These are quite easy to reach. Ultramontane takes a bit more effort to reach but it is a classic, now upgraded to E1. Hopefully more coming soon.
Not recently climbed but look ok-  Perfecto, Spinal Column, Quiet River

May 2017 - Aerial Ballet cleaned. Looks excellent.

Approach notes

 

1 The northern crags are reached by a stealth mission via the track which starts at the lodge 400m from Gunnislake New Bridge. Ignore the initial no parking sign and continue to a small parking area and information board. This approach involves brazenly ignoring Private signs.

2 A top-down approach from the track on the valley rim is best for the southern cluster of crags. This can be accessed from the Lodge parking via a legal path up to Chimney Rock. Alternatively (better) park on the roadside 500m from Morwellham's excessive parking charges and follow the cycle track which starts here (GR 448 703). This leads directly (with twists and turns) to the viewpoint at the top of C Buttress. From there steep wooded slopes to the left (looking out) can be descended to reach the other crags. A Buttress (Aerial Ballet) is found by descending to a dry leat, following it rightwards around a jutting spur and descending the bay beyond.

It is possible to descend all the way to the river from A Buttress to get access to Perfecto and a little further downstream, Ultramontane. Though it has to be said the woodland terrain is hard going!

 

 

Access Advice

The crags are on private property but there is no outright ban on climbing and with sensitivity it is possible to climb here without attracting attention. See above for more info.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Gunnislake Buttress
2 Cerebus VD 2
3 Quickening Pulse
-
HVS 4c  
4 Thor VS 4c 2
5 Damaged Goods HVS 5a 1
6 Odin Your Tea's Ready
-
HVS 4c  
  Upper Cliff
8 Haunted People HVS 5a 1
  Soupcon Ridge
10 Soup├žon VD 2
11 Overhanging Crack S  
  Chimney Rock
13 Chimney Rock
-
D  
  Weir Buttress
15 Limping Home VS  
16 Vacancy at the Vatican HVS 4c * 1
17 Palace of Skulls E3 5b  
18 Love is like Anthrax VS  
19 Tiptoe HS  
  Main Buttress
21 Spinal column S 4a * 1
  Summit Buttress (Pleasure Rock)
23 Fern Chimney
-
D  
24 The Cleaver
-
S  
  Blasted Buttress
26 Good Day Sunshine E1 5b  
27 Perfecto VS 4b 1
28 Seasons in the sun VS 4b  
29 Lazing on a Sunny Afternoon HVS 5a  
30 Sunshine Superman E2 5c  
  Middle Buttress
32 Continuation Wall
-
S  
33 Pine Top
-
VS  
34 Impertinent Robin
-
VS 4b  
  A Buttress
36 Jollity Farm HVS 5a  
37 Aerial Ballet E1 5b * 2
38 Monkey Puzzle VS 4b  
39 Daylight Saving HVS 4c  
  B Buttress
41 Quiet River
-
VS 4c  
42 The Entertainer E1 5b  
  C Buttress
44 Cold finger
-
E1 5a 1
45 Cold Grief E1 5b ** 3
46 Maybe Tomorrow HVS 5a 1
47 Points of View E2 5b 1
48 Cream Egg HVS 5a  
  River Buttress
50 Divine Inspiration
-
VS 4c  
51 Salvationist
-
S 1
52 Ultramontane E1 5a 1
53 Thought Process HVS 5a  

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