Morwell Rocks Crags © Kafoozalem
There is no need to pay £5. Access is sensitive so keep a low profile. Once you have reached your chosen crag you are unlikely to be disturbed except for Weir Buttress. Although the crag won't be to everyone's taste there are a number of good climbs here and many of them are in superb situations. It received a unnecessarily negative and bilious write up in Nick White's guidebook considering some of the other crags described.
Obviously such a dense woodland is at risk of fire, so no naked flames please!
2016 Recommended restored routes ... Cold Grief, Maybe Tomorrow, Thor, Damaged Goods. These are quite easy to reach. Ultramontane takes a bit more effort to reach but it is a classic, now upgraded to E1. Hopefully more coming soon.
Not recently climbed but look ok- Perfecto, Spinal Column, Quiet River
May 2017 - Aerial Ballet cleaned. Looks excellent.
1 The northern crags are reached by a stealth mission via the track which starts at the lodge 400m from Gunnislake New Bridge. Ignore the initial no parking sign and continue to a small parking area and information board. This approach involves brazenly ignoring Private signs.
2 A top-down approach from the track on the valley rim is best for the southern cluster of crags. This can be accessed from the Lodge parking via a legal path up to Chimney Rock. Alternatively (better) park on the roadside 500m from Morwellham's excessive parking charges and follow the cycle track which starts here (GR 448 703). This leads directly (with twists and turns) to the viewpoint at the top of C Buttress. From there steep wooded slopes to the left (looking out) can be descended to reach the other crags. A Buttress (Aerial Ballet) is found by descending to a dry leat, following it rightwards around a jutting spur and descending the bay beyond.
It is possible to descend all the way to the river from A Buttress to get access to Perfecto and a little further downstream, Ultramontane. Though it has to be said the woodland terrain is hard going!
The crags are on private property but there is no outright ban on climbing and with sensitivity it is possible to climb here without attracting attention. See above for more info.
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