Climbs 57
Rocktype Granite

Clockwork orange © andy south devon

Crag features

The bouldering in this area is still being developed and these along with the routes give a very worthwhile venue particulary when combined with another of the Lustleigh venues. The rock at Lustleigh is some of the finest and best on the moor making some of the problems well worth a visit purely for this factor.

The Nutcracker area is made up of around six small sectors containing between 2 to 6 problems each. The first area contains the pinnacle, Over the hill and the slopey boulder and is reached along the path just before the butress containing the routes Bamboozled E4 6a** and Lev E6 6b***.

Further details for the routes can be found in the guide and on Javu.co.uk

Approach notes

From Bovey Tracey take the Manaton road. Carry on along here until a right turn at the bottom of a hill signed for Lustleigh. Follow this road for approx. 1 mile, over a bridge and then take a left turn immediately after. Carry straight on along here for about 1 mile until parking spots on the side of the road. This is just before a footpath on the left with sign for Hunter's Tor, opposite some posh houses one called "LoganStone". To get to the Nutcracker area follow the path directly up the hill untilyou reach the top plateau. From here follow the path leftwards for a couple of minutes to discover the boulders among the trees!!

Boulders are described from the above approach and then roughly from left to right with some boulders below the others this is mentioned in the text for each boulder. It is perhaps easier to follow the left hand path to the top of the hill to find the Butchers Block and the Hill Crest sector.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Isolated Buttress
2 Isolated Buttress V4 6a ** 1
  The Slab Boulder
4 The Slab V2 5c *** 10
5 Slab Traverse V4 6a 2
  Slopey Boulder
7 TSL V8 ** 1
8 Rockover V5 6b ** 6
9 Right Arete V5 6b * 12
10 T.B.L. V8 6c **  
11 Easy Slab V0 4b * 2
12 Easy Slab Right VB 1
  The Pinnacle Area
14 Over the Hill V6 6b ** 13
15 Over the Mountain V10 7a *** 1
16 Behind the Hill? V2 5c 6
17 The Pillar V2 5c ** 19
18 Crystal Maze E5 6b 1
  Warm Up Wall
20 Micks Arete V3 5b ** 1
21 Slopey Mick V2 5c * 2
22 Zig Zag V1 5b * 2
23 Micks Wall V1 5a * 3
24 Micks Bulge V2 5c ** 3
25 Micks Lunge V3 6a * 1
  The Roof Boulder
27 Camel Toe Traverse V6 6b 1
28 Hercules V3 5c ** 7
29 Cerberus V2 5c ** 5
  The Slap Boulder
31 Bear ArĂȘte V5 6b *** 7
32 The Slap V4 6a * 4
  Jez's Little Bulge
34 Clockwork Orange V5 *** 10
35 Paths of Glory V4 6a ** 1
  Polly Buttress
37 Polly Wants a ...... S 4a * 1
38 Short but Sweet VS 4c * 1
39 Attractive Scoop V4 5c ** 1
  Little NTBTA Boulder
41 Flakey Arete V0 5b * 4
42 Arete Eliminate V2 6a 1
43 Little NTBTA V1 5b * 6
44 Eliminate Arete V5 6b * 4
45 Compression I Crave V4 6a * 4
46 Short Crack V0 5b 3
  Hill Crest
48 Hung Like a Makak V5 6b * 2
49 Road House V4 6b * 3
50 Conscientious Twix V3 6a ** 2
51 Careless Whisper V5 6b *** 6
52 Shout V0- 1
53 The Tipsy Gypsy V4 6a ** 1
  The Butchers Block
55 The Cleaver V4 6a ** 5
56 Still Waiting on Name V6 1
57 Kneel before Zod V7 6c *** 4
58 The Front Door Baker V2 * 9
59 The Butcher at 36 V3 6a * 5
60 The Candlestick Maker V5 6a 1
61 The Cowboy Butcher V5 6b *** 11
62 The Butcher Baker V6 6b ** 5
63 The Back Door Butcher V3 5c ** 9
64 George's mantle VB 2
65 Nice Kids problem 2 VB  
66 Nice Kids problem 3 VB  
67 Nice Kids problem 4 VB  
68 Charlie's project VB 1
69 Pointy fing VB 1

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