Climbs 14
Rocktype Granite

left to right. Dogon E4 5c and Bobangi E7 6c. © Tom Last

Crag features

Approach From the base of the quarried bay continue along the tramway. Just around the corner look up the hillside to the left and you should see a cluster of larger boulders, the right hand of which is identified by a prominent roof on the left hand side. Routes are described from right to left:

Approach notes

Approach From Bovey Tracey follow signs towards Widecombe. These should lead you uphill for a few miles. At the very top of the hill a large lump of granite - Haytor - is visible (to the right of the road). Park in the first car park on the left (toilets and National Park info centre; just passed the hotel).

Follow an obvious paths towards mounds of granite blocks that mark Haytor Quarry (if lookiong up at Haytor these are down to the right). Beyond here a path leads directly onto an old tramway. Turn left and shortly after turn tight on another tramway that leads downhill to a quarry on the left at the bottom. The routes in this guide are found in the quarry bay on the right, easily identified by it's impressive, smooth left wall.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Bobangi E7 6c **  
2 Schmogon V8 *** 1
3 Young, Gifted, and Black E4 6a  
4 Hutu HVS 4c 7
5 BoBo E2 6a 1
6 Tsutsi E6 6b *  
7 Dogon E4 5c * 7
8 Narrow boulder - right eliminate V2 6a * 2
9 Old, Ordinary, and White HVS 5a 3
10 Narrow boulder - central flakes V0 5a 2
11 Crypsis V5 6a * 3
12 Tim the Enchanter V4 6a 4
13 Left Arete V0 5a 1
14 Slow Show * VD 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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