Climbs 37
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 2m a.s.l
Faces W

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Maybe its best to solo this one... © Annette H.

Crag features

The Main Crag is a a low but steep bluff of natural limestone in a pleasant setting on the west-facing side of the southern point of Hope's Nose which has liberated a good set of short routes in the HS - E2 range and some excellent bouldering/solos. The limestone is generally good quality and sound, except for the top-out zone where a bit of care is required in some places.  It is an important location in the Global Geopark and quite justifiably is free of fixed and/or drilled gear. Adequate stake belays to climb all the listed routes were in place in 2017, just east of the footpath which runs along the crest.  Rigging a static line off the stakes is a good tactic to enable belaying from the top of the rock face and a faster descent on completion.  Most of the pitches can be climbed with a small rack of wires & cams and a single/full rope can be used in most cases on the 'straight-up' lines.  The upward boulder problems get very highball and, whilst the moves are generally easier high up, a good mat (or three) and a spotter are advisable.  Several of the described routes can also have the initial sequences bouldered out or can be wholly soloed; in fact, routes and boulder problems blur to an extent, the descritions reflect the described style of the first ascentionists.  Those soloing to the top should consider checking that the top-out holds are clear of soil and loose rock.  The crag catches the sun from early afternoon onwards & is sheltered from an easterly wind.

The Northern Quarry of Hope's Nose has quite a lot of exposed rock but disappoints in potential for both bouldering and climbs.  Three mini-trad. lines on the small buttress at the west end have good moves on interesting rock.  One 'nut-job' climb tackles the south face...  For geological types, the interesting caves and fissures at the seaward end are worth a look.  

Notes with the climbs presume posession of the 2018 CC South Devon guide book so only expect supplementary notes, unless the line is a new addition. 

Approach notes

For the Main Crag, approach from the main Hope's Nose parking area on Ilsham Marine Drive - 5 mins. walk.  Follow the main path down the hill and bear rightwards towards the south-facing bay; the crag soon comes into view at the left end of the bay (facing out).   

For the Northern Quarry, follow the fishermen's path down towards the north-eastern point.    

Guidebooks

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Main Crag - Upper Area
2 Jug-blind HS 4c 4
3 White Slab f6A+ *  
4 Corner & Continuation VS 5a 2
5 Sanity Assassin HVS 5b/c * 4
6 The Party Boat E1 6a * 1
7 The Cider Press f7B ** 1
8 Cider Press - Fermentation Finish f7B+ ** 1
9 Roots Manoeuvre E2 6a 2
10 A Special Place in Hell f7B ** 2
11 The 48% f7A ** 2
12 The Thin Blue Line f7B ** 2
13 Thin Blue Line Sit f7B ** 1
14 Peaches en Regalia f7B *** 2
Climb name Grade
15 How d'you like them apples? f7A *** 2
16 Esperanza E2 6a/b * 1
17 Emil Fischer f7C ** 1
18 The Cast-Off f7C *** 1
19 Happy Birthday Mr Porcupine E1 5c * 6
20 Stiff Upper Lip E2 5c *  
21 Eliminated Bunny VS 5a 1
22 Vikhr-4 f7A+ * 3
23 Renaissance f7C+ *** 1
24 The Stonechat Test f7C+ *** 1
25 Death of the Belay Bunny VS 4b * 9
26 Schmoke and a Pancake E2 5b *  
27 Mad World E2 5c 1
28 Skate-park Virgin HVS 5b 2
Climb name Grade
29 Rapid Vienna * f7A+ * 1
  Main Crag - Lower Face
31 Mashed on Mescal VS 4b 7
32 Magic Brownie HVS 5b * 4
33 Skunk Odyssey LH VS 4c 2
34 Skunk Odyssey RH VS 4c 1
  Northern Quarry
36 Hot Dog HVS 5b 1
37 Red Stripe S 4a * 2
38 Grime VS 4c 1
39 Unconformist HVS 4c  
40 Wind fall * f7B+ *** 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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