Climbs 41
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces E

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Paper Clip Slab (2nd ascent) © Mark Davis

Crag features

A worthwhile trad venue with many relatively new routes (mostly from 2010). The crag is rather prone to revegetation by moss on the slabs, and bracken and brambles; however, this year (2019) a clean-up was undertaken, and currently the routes should be in good condition.

To visitors using the new CC Symonds Yat guidebook: the following three climbs are not yet equipped with lower-offs and should be avoided: THE PAST, NOSE JOB, DAVID VIRGO 1969. Other routes finish at abseil stations or reach substantial trees. Topping out is generally not a safe option. There is loose rock above the finishes of all climbs, and helmets are strongly recommended.

On entering the quarry, a huge, roughly circular area of slab will be seen on the left: The Great Slab, which is home to a dozen new routes. Right of the Great Slab is a tower containing a prominent corner crack (The Horned One), capped by an enormous projecting roof: The Horn. A vegetated runnel separates the right arete of the tower from another arete: these aretes are taken by the original two Martin Crocker routes: Round the Horn and Del Fuego. Next comes a very large tree which has fallen from high above and currently means that you have to drop down to get to the next climbs.

Right again is a distinctive whaleback slab (Baran), which steepens and narrows as it rises to twin cracks in a recess; to the right of this slab is an arete (Ice Age), and to the right again an as yet unclimbed deep corner capped by a large roof. Some 50m further is a small face (Master Seth's Edge), and, right again, the distictive hanging slab of Paper Clip Slab.

A small slab, Old Staple Edge, lies on the hillside above the first part of the approach track, and contains the worthwhile In a Lonely Place and 2 other routes.

Several twin-bolt abseil stations were installed in Spring 2011. See comment below for details.

Approach notes

From Cinderford, drive south through Ruspidge. Shortly after leaving the village, at a long bend in the road, there are two grassy lay-bys on the right. Park here (if driving back the same way, a U turn will be required either before or after climbing: pick your spot for this carefully) and walk back towards the village a short way; then take the good new track on the left (facing towards the village). Follow the track to its end (at a recently capped mine shaft enclosed by green fencing) and continue straight ahead on a small undulating path, passing above the factory buildings. Ignore a left fork in the path which rises to an isolated telegraph pole, and continue ahead a short way; then drop down to a trough which rises up and merges from the right, and leads down left into the quarry. This all takes 5-10 minutes from the car.

What a great crag, did Ice Age, would have done more if it had been clean. I am tempted to go back and clean off the lines I want to do as they look great. But a team effort would be better
stevethomas - 29/Apr/17
Had a day here last week. July might not be a good idea. Apart from Horned One, all routes are now somewhat or very vegetated. Great effort to clean this up, but I'd guess it needs the same effort every 2 years. Anyway, we did Quarry Effect (thought this would be excellent if clean), Paper Clip Slab (vicious gorse in the corner!) and Grendel's Mother. Wanted to do Baran, but the bottom slab is a carpet now.
edwardwoodward - 25/Jul/15
gutted to have arrived to see 'Barran' covered in moss and everything a bit damp and gloomy. Bone dry and a clean up and I'm sure this is as good as it all looks in the guide though.
Stanners - 16/Aug/14
Well, it looks like The Lost Treasure Of The Kingdom of Mercia is currently top of the leader board :)
Mark Davies PK - 12/Dec/13
A cracking little crag, good effort cleaning it up. From the photos it looks as though it is at its best during the winter, which is great as sandstone usually takes terrible seepage.
alan rosier - 08/Sep/13
Double bolt belays (with BMC consent) have been installed for routes on the main slab between 'Arthur Pod' and 'Tiffin Club' (exluding Back, Foot and Crack) as well as one at the top of 'The Future' and one at the top of 'Baran' that can also be used for 'Grendels Mother'. All other routes finish at adequate tree belays.
Mark Davies PK - 17/Sep/11
The routes are overhung by large amounts of veg, so as a result there is a lot of muck on the holds, in cracks. We did several one * routes and there was more loose rock than I'd hoped for. All the great photos seem to have been taken with a very wide angle lens which makes the crag seem much bigger than it is. Best temper your enthusiasm before arrival! Probably best enjoyed after a dry spell as some of the sandstone seems to absorb water and get softer.
Tim M - 19/Jun/11
Be careful on route 'Burnt Mound, VS 5a'. Just below the crux move the tree is acting as a spear, a fall onto this would be very serious. Climb 21 in the new CC Yat guide.
afrad - 22/May/11
Nice little crag. Be really very nice with a little more traffic to keep the brambles down! Certainly going to return.
Ander - 11/Oct/10
Really like this crag and can't wait to come back next Spring when everything should be in tip- top condition. If ever a crag waranted bolt belay stations at the top of the crag though it is certainly this one!
Dale Berry - 29/Aug/10
Update: The Future is now equipped with a lower-off.
bpmclimb - 27/Jul/10
Just a note for anyone who has just bought the new Symonds Yat guide: This newly developed quarry (formerly known as Ruspidge west quarry) has been developed over the past winter and early spring. Most of the routes finish at trees and/or lower offs. Several lower offs are not yet in place due to my accident yesterday: please do not attempt to climb routes: 'The Past', 'The Future', 'Nose Job' and 'David Virgo' lower offs for these will be put in ASAP. Summer vegetation is rampant down there since we cleaned and climbed the routes and some routes need a bit of re-gardening but most of the routes look pretty clean.
Mark Davies PK - 19/Jul/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Old Staple Edge
2 In a Lonely Place E3 6a * 1
3 Freeminers Crack S 4a 1
4 Speculation Slab HS 4a 1
  Approach Path Problems
6 Outer Corner V0 1
7 Stoney Crispy Corner V0 1
8 1 Shot Wonder V0 1
  Main Crag
10 Moss Trespass E1 5b 5
11 Arthur Pod HVS 5b 9
12 Staple Diet E6 6b * 4
13 Abcession E7 6c ** 1
14 Fight Club E5 6b * 3
15 Butch and Sundance E1 5b * 38
Climb name Grade
16 The Lost Treasure Of The Kingdom of Mercia HVS 5a * 94
17 Back, Foot and Crack VS 4c * 78
18 The Other Brothers HVS 5a 13
19 The Quarry Effect E1 5c * 65
20 The Vanishing Spade HS 4b 51
21 Abdominal Slab E2 5c * 25
22 The Tiffin Club HS 4a 46
23 The Past VS 4b 4
24 The Future HVS 5a * 24
25 El Zorro E3 5c 4
26 Drake Passage E2 5c * 7
27 The Horned One E1 5b ** 41
28 Round the Horn E1 5c * 4
29 Del Fuego E1 5c 3
30 Baran E2 5b * 47
Climb name Grade
31 Grendel's Mother E2 5c * 8
32 Burnt Mound VS 5a * 39
33 Ice Age VS 4c * 69
34 And No Birds Do Sing HVS 5a 22
35 Finger Popping Good HS 4b 9
36 Finger Popping Bad E2 5c 1
37 Master Seth's Edge HS 4b 16
38 The Systematic Sexing up of Ruspidge West HS 4a 13
39 A Little Obscure HS 4b 13
40 Paper Clip Slab E3 5c * 28
41 Minister for Paper Clips VS 4c 3
42 Nose Job E3 5c * 5
43 King of Lights HVS 4c 4
44 David Virgo 1969 VS 4c 1

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