Climbs 73
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 8m a.s.l
Faces S

Crag features

Makes the Gower look appealing.

Approach notes

Walk out along the path on top of the down until the fort at the end of the headland comes into view.

Turn left at a concrete gun emplacement near the path and scramble down to the west of the first cliff (Red Slab Wall).

Lovely crag, a hidden gem. Much needed lower grade trad in the Bristol area. The guidebook description is rubbish, almost seems to want to keep it hidden. On approaching the fort bear left at the first building and you'll come to the gun emplacement (which is hidden at first) before the fort itself. Scramble down the (kind of) ridge in front of the bunker and then turn left making your way along the slippery, seaweed infested, muddy ground away from the fort. The wall is obvious when you reach it with a steeper crag with a clear overhang and the red slab off to the side. We abseiled from the top of the routes to descend but I also down climbed a corner to the right of the red slab (looking in from the bottom) which felt about diff and was a reasonable way back down.
sheelba - 07/Sep/14
Wasted most of a lovely saturday trying to find Hotaches buttress, tried following the CC guide instructions (a lot of words no maps !). We walked to the end then 500m back (couldn't find the 'grassy spur') soloed somehow down to the beach, walked back 300m, found Ochre wall (very uninspiring top outs) but couldn't find Hotaches. I know others have been there recently so any instructions would be great.
James Marshall - 01/Sep/14
Brean fort crags regeneration Team are hard at work - Some great sea cliff trad routes are being cleaned up and repeated that are well worth climbing. Of particular note is Hotaches Buttress.
Stanners - 19/Aug/14
What a gorgeous place, and what lovely grippy rock! The way down was a bit of a puzzle; when you turn left off the path towards the fort you go down a bit and there is a little building (gun emplacement), and the scramble down is in front of that.
BusyLizzie - 28/Apr/13
I couldn't find it. I couldn't work out where to go to Ab down and therefore didn't climb at the Fort Crag, ended up on the beach. A solid description from someone who knows would be useful, I found the description in the CC guide to be utterly useless.
puppythedog - 31/Mar/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Trench
2 Wheezers and Dodgers
-
VS 4c 1
3 Zee Germans are coming E2 5c * 1
4 The Expendable Acoustic Emitter
-
HVS 5a 2
  Southern Spur
6 Dion
-
HS 4b 3
7 The Sea Priestess
-
S 4a * 1
8 Fortune
-
VS 4c 1
9 The Comeback
-
HS 4a 2
  Shelter Chimney AREA
11 Shelter Chimney VD 3
12 Just Climb Something M 2
13 Chimney Sweep HD 3
14 Lozzagyr D 2
15 Roadbike Headcase S 4a 3
16 Daughter D 4
17 Daddy Route VD * 5
  Red Slab Area
19 Nome HD 3
20 Obvious Crack HS 4c 4
21 Finger Crack VD 34
22 Pining for Pembroke VD 2
23 Romuth Beckoning E1 5a 2
24 Curving Crack VD 31
25 Eavesdrop VD 31
26 One False Move E5 6a 2
27 Birthmark E1 5b 11
28 In the Soup E1 5b * 9
29 Backstairs S 9
30 Gone Fishing HVS 5a 15
31 Well-honed HVS 4c * 38
32 Red Slab Crack VD 50
33 Red Slab Central HVS 4c 35
34 Red Slab Corner S 62
35 Red Wall Crack (Left) VS 4c 9
36 Red Wall Crack (Right) VD 10
  Broken cleft
38 Dead Man's Handshake E5 6a/b *  
39 Genetic Love Affair VS 4b 2
40 The Big Chill E1 5a 2
41 Pint Handle Crack HVS 5a 3
42 Save the Down from Mankind E1 5b 2
43 Honeycomb E1 5c 10
44 Me' shell E2 5c ** 7
45 She Male VS 4c ** 3
46 Apparition
-
VS 4b * 17
47 True Identity
-
HVS 4c 1
  ochre strip
49 Blocked VS 4b 2
50 OK Crack
-
S 6
51 Deception
-
VS 4b 5
52 Ochre Groove
-
VD 6
53 Bereaved
-
E1 5b 5
54 Bequeathed
-
E1 5c * 5
55 Beholden
-
E1 5b  
56 Cynical of Success
-
E3 5b  
57 The Bones of Goram
-
VS 4b * 4
58 Blind Man's Paradox
-
E1 6a 2
59 Blind Man's Paradox Indirect HVS 5a * 1
60 Retardis
-
HVS 4c 4
61 Travesty
-
E5 6a *  
62 Theopolis
-
E2 6a  
63 Black Comedy
-
E1 5b 5
64 Satyre
-
E3 6a * 3
65 Fun With Pyro
-
E2 5c 2
66 Overgrade, Undergrade: Wobbling Free
-
E1 5b 5
67 Needs Must
-
VS 4c 2
68 Bongo Workshop Bash
-
E2 5b  
69 Ben Baddoo
-
E2 5b  
70 Purge the Week Away
-
E2 5c  
71 The Brean Bone Chamber
-
E3 6a  
72 Pinnochio
-
E2 5b  
73 Nosejob
-
E3 5c  
  Hotaches Buttress
75 Before The Dawn
-
VS 4c * 2
76 Have-a-go Hero
-
E4 5c * 2
77 Hotaches
-
E1 5b * 6
78 Creak Machine
-
E2 6a * 2
79 Squeaky Clean
-
E4 6a ** 2
80 Lonely Corner
-
VD 1

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