Climbs 127
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 8m a.s.l
Faces S

View Stats

Crag features

Makes the Gower look appealing.

Approach notes

Walk out along the path on top of the down until the fort at the end of the headland comes into view.

Turn left at a concrete gun emplacement near the path and scramble down to the west of the first cliff (Red Slab Wall).

Lovely crag, a hidden gem. Much needed lower grade trad in the Bristol area. The guidebook description is rubbish, almost seems to want to keep it hidden. On approaching the fort bear left at the first building and you'll come to the gun emplacement (which is hidden at first) before the fort itself. Scramble down the (kind of) ridge in front of the bunker and then turn left making your way along the slippery, seaweed infested, muddy ground away from the fort. The wall is obvious when you reach it with a steeper crag with a clear overhang and the red slab off to the side. We abseiled from the top of the routes to descend but I also down climbed a corner to the right of the red slab (looking in from the bottom) which felt about diff and was a reasonable way back down.
sheelba - 07/Sep/14
Wasted most of a lovely saturday trying to find Hotaches buttress, tried following the CC guide instructions (a lot of words no maps !). We walked to the end then 500m back (couldn't find the 'grassy spur') soloed somehow down to the beach, walked back 300m, found Ochre wall (very uninspiring top outs) but couldn't find Hotaches. I know others have been there recently so any instructions would be great.
James Marshall - 01/Sep/14
Brean fort crags regeneration Team are hard at work - Some great sea cliff trad routes are being cleaned up and repeated that are well worth climbing. Of particular note is Hotaches Buttress.
Stanners - 19/Aug/14
What a gorgeous place, and what lovely grippy rock! The way down was a bit of a puzzle; when you turn left off the path towards the fort you go down a bit and there is a little building (gun emplacement), and the scramble down is in front of that.
BusyLizzie - 28/Apr/13
I couldn't find it. I couldn't work out where to go to Ab down and therefore didn't climb at the Fort Crag, ended up on the beach. A solid description from someone who knows would be useful, I found the description in the CC guide to be utterly useless.
Muttly - 31/Mar/12
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Searchlight Island
2 Searchlight Chimney M 5
3 Light at the end of the Runnel D 13
4 Light at the end of the Jumble S 6
  The Trench
6 Wheezers and Dodgers
-
VS 4c 1
7 Zee Germans are coming E2 5c * 1
8 The Expendable Acoustic Emitter
-
HVS 5a 2
9 Daisies of the World Unite D 10
10 Bungiveagh D 5
11 Bungardilaun D 5
12 Those Cunning Brothers none 3
13 Lords of the Vat D 4
14 Trench Foot HS 4c 2
  Southern Spur
16 Dion
-
HS 4b 4
17 The Sea Priestess
-
S 4a * 3
18 Fortune
-
VS 4c 1
19 The Comeback
-
HS 4a 3
20 Frontiersman VD 3
21 I named it, so what? MVS 4c 1
  The Heights
23 Kate's Escape D 9
24 Nine Lives Nook HVD 4
25 Captain Cornflake's Cleft HVD 5
26 Al Dog's Evil Start S 4a 6
27 Bob's Blistering Barnacles VD 7
28 Pirate Pete's Perambulation HS 4b * 1
29 Gravitas VS 4b 6
30 Shoneen Games VS 4c 26
31 Flahoolagh Entertainment S 15
32 Ahab's Alarming Arete S 8
33 Little Britain Street HS 4a 7
34 Rapparee D 13
35 Yellow Brick Road D 5
36 Parietin Highway VD 3
37 Was it worth it? HS 4a 2
  Zawn West
39 John Swee Sur VD 5
40 Tech Toniques VD 4
41 Craick and Flak HD 8
42 The Craic of Doom HD 8
43 Eu Ropa Corner S 16
44 MCS Arete S 13
45 MCS Wall S 15
46 Highway to the Danger Zawn VS 4b * 30
Climb name Grade
47 All Quiet on the Weston Front VS 4c 35
48 Danger Zawn Direct HVS 4c * 6
  Shelter Chimney Area
50 Sceptre VD 5
51 Throwaway D 7
52 Gimme Shelter VD 5
53 Sirens HS 10
54 Shelter Chimney VD 18
55 Eccles Street S 4a 11
56 Eblana VD 7
57 Canter M 3
58 Just Climb Something M 4
59 Chimney Sweep HD 5
60 Lozzagyr D 4
61 Roadbike Headcase S 4a 5
62 Daughter D 6
63 Daddy Route VD * 7
64 Pea Shooter VD 6
65 Furry Lees VD 8
66 J Dog and the Scary Overhang HD 8
67 Balor of the Evil Eye HVD 3
  Red Slab Area
69 Nome HD 6
70 Obvious Crack HS 4c 3
71 Finger Crack VD 44
72 Eve's Drop VD ** 26
73 Pining for Pembroke VD 4
74 Romuth Beckoning E1 5a 2
75 Curving Crack VD 41
76 Eavesdrop VD 50
77 One False Move E5 6a 2
78 Birthmark E1 5b 14
79 In the Soup E1 5b * 11
80 Backstairs S 13
81 Gone Fishing HVS 5a 17
82 Well-honed HVS 4c * 40
83 Red Slab Crack VD 72
84 Red Slab Central HVS 4c 53
85 Red Slab Corner S 99
86 Red Wall Crack (Left) VS 4c 14
87 Red Wall Crack (Right) VD 40
88 Adeste fideles VD 22
89 Mars Capone D 22
  Broken cleft
91 Dead Man's Handshake E5 6a/b *  
92 Genetic Love Affair VS 4b 2
Climb name Grade
93 The Big Chill E1 5a 2
94 Pint Handle Crack HVS 5a 3
95 Save the Down from Mankind E1 5b 2
96 Honeycomb E1 5c 10
97 Me' shell E2 5c ** 7
98 She Male VS 4c ** 3
99 Apparition
-
VS 4b * 20
100 True Identity
-
HVS 4c 1
  Ochre strip
102 Blocked VS 4b 2
103 OK Crack
-
S 6
104 Deception
-
VS 4b 5
105 Ochre Groove
-
VD 7
106 Bereaved
-
E1 5b 5
107 Bequeathed
-
E1 5c * 5
108 Beholden
-
E1 5b  
109 Cynical of Success
-
E3 5b  
110 The Bones of Goram
-
VS 4b * 4
111 Blind Man's Paradox
-
E1 6a 2
112 Blind Man's Paradox Indirect HVS 5a * 1
113 Retardis
-
HVS 4c 4
114 Travesty
-
E5 6a *  
115 Theopolis
-
E2 6a  
116 Black Comedy
-
E1 5b 5
117 Satyre
-
E3 6a * 3
118 Fun With Pyro
-
E2 5c 2
119 Overgrade, Undergrade: Wobbling Free
-
E1 5b 5
120 Needs Must
-
VS 4c 2
121 Bongo Workshop Bash
-
E2 5b  
122 Ben Baddoo
-
E2 5b  
123 Purge the Week Away
-
E2 5c  
124 The Brean Bone Chamber
-
E3 6a  
125 Pinnochio
-
E2 5b  
126 Nosejob
-
E3 5c  
  Hotaches Buttress
128 Before The Dawn
-
VS 4c * 2
129 Have-a-go Hero
-
E4 5c * 2
130 Hotaches
-
E1 5b * 6
131 Creak Machine
-
E2 6a * 2
132 Squeaky Clean
-
E4 6a ** 2
133 Lonely Corner
-
VD 1
  Choc Ice Gully
135 Isis
-
HVD 2
136 Osiris
-
HS 2
137 Horus
-
HS 4
138 Larry
-
HVD 2

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer jayyaj