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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 128
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 8m a.s.l
Faces S

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Crag features

Makes the Gower look appealing.

Approach notes

Walk out along the path on top of the down until the fort at the end of the headland comes into view.

Turn left at a concrete gun emplacement near the path and scramble down to the west of the first cliff (Red Slab Wall).

Lovely crag, a hidden gem. Much needed lower grade trad in the Bristol area. The guidebook description is rubbish, almost seems to want to keep it hidden. On approaching the fort bear left at the first building and you'll come to the gun emplacement (which is hidden at first) before the fort itself. Scramble down the (kind of) ridge in front of the bunker and then turn left making your way along the slippery, seaweed infested, muddy ground away from the fort. The wall is obvious when you reach it with a steeper crag with a clear overhang and the red slab off to the side. We abseiled from the top of the routes to descend but I also down climbed a corner to the right of the red slab (looking in from the bottom) which felt about diff and was a reasonable way back down.
sheelba - 07/Sep/14
Wasted most of a lovely saturday trying to find Hotaches buttress, tried following the CC guide instructions (a lot of words no maps !). We walked to the end then 500m back (couldn't find the 'grassy spur') soloed somehow down to the beach, walked back 300m, found Ochre wall (very uninspiring top outs) but couldn't find Hotaches. I know others have been there recently so any instructions would be great.
James Marshall - 01/Sep/14
Brean fort crags regeneration Team are hard at work - Some great sea cliff trad routes are being cleaned up and repeated that are well worth climbing. Of particular note is Hotaches Buttress.
Stanners - 19/Aug/14
What a gorgeous place, and what lovely grippy rock! The way down was a bit of a puzzle; when you turn left off the path towards the fort you go down a bit and there is a little building (gun emplacement), and the scramble down is in front of that.
BusyLizzie - 28/Apr/13
I couldn't find it. I couldn't work out where to go to Ab down and therefore didn't climb at the Fort Crag, ended up on the beach. A solid description from someone who knows would be useful, I found the description in the CC guide to be utterly useless.
Muttly - 31/Mar/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Searchlight Island
2 Searchlight Chimney M 9
3 Light at the end of the Runnel D 15
4 Light at the end of the Jumble S 6
  The Trench
6 Wheezers and Dodgers
-
VS 4c 1
7 Zee Germans are coming E2 5c * 1
8 The Expendable Acoustic Emitter
-
HVS 5a 2
9 Daisies of the World Unite D 12
10 Bungiveagh D 7
11 Bungardilaun D 6
12 Those Cunning Brothers none 4
13 Lords of the Vat D 5
14 Trench Foot HS 4c 2
  Southern Spur
16 Dion
-
HS 4b 4
17 The Sea Priestess
-
S 4a * 3
18 Fortune
-
VS 4c 1
19 The Comeback
-
HS 4a 3
20 Frontiersman VD 4
21 I named it, so what? MVS 4c 1
  The Heights
23 Kate's Escape D 12
24 Nine Lives Nook HVD 5
25 Captain Cornflake's Cleft HVD 5
26 Al Dog's Evil Start S 4a 6
27 Bob's Blistering Barnacles VD 7
28 Pirate Pete's Perambulation HS 4b * 2
29 Gravitas VS 4b 7
30 Shoneen Games VS 4c 29
31 Flahoolagh Entertainment S 18
32 Ahab's Alarming Arete S 11
33 Little Britain Street HS 4a 7
34 Rapparee D 16
35 Yellow Brick Road D 6
36 Parietin Highway VD 3
37 Was it worth it? HS 4a 4
  Zawn West
39 John Swee Sur VD 6
40 Tech Toniques VD 5
41 Craick and Flak HD 9
42 The Craic of Doom HD 10
43 Eu Ropa Corner S 20
44 MCS Arete S 15
45 MCS Wall S 17
46 Highway to the Danger Zawn VS 4b * 33
47 All Quiet on the Weston Front VS 4c 40
Climb name Grade
48 Danger Zawn Direct HVS 4c * 7
  Shelter Chimney Area
50 Sceptre VD 6
51 Throwaway D 8
52 Gimme Shelter VD 6
53 Sirens HS 12
54 Shelter Chimney VD 19
55 Eccles Street S 4a 13
56 Eblana VD 9
57 Canter M 4
58 Just Climb Something M 5
59 Chimney Sweep HD 5
60 Lozzagyr D 4
61 Roadbike Headcase S 4a 5
62 Daughter D 6
63 Daddy Route VD * 7
64 Pea Shooter VD 6
65 Furry Lees VD 9
66 J Dog and the Scary Overhang HD 8
67 Balor of the Evil Eye HVD 3
  Red Slab Area
69 Nome HD 6
70 Obvious Crack HS 4c 3
71 Finger Crack VD 44
72 Eve's Drop VD ** 32
73 Pining for Pembroke VD 4
74 Romuth Beckoning E1 5a 2
75 Curving Crack VD 42
76 Belly Buster VS 4b * 1
77 Eavesdrop VD 54
78 One False Move E5 6a 2
79 Birthmark E1 5b 14
80 In the Soup E1 5b * 11
81 Backstairs S 13
82 Gone Fishing HVS 5a 17
83 Well-honed HVS 4c * 41
84 Red Slab Crack VD 77
85 Red Slab Central HVS 4c 54
86 Red Slab Corner S 100
87 Red Wall Crack (Left) VS 4c 15
88 Red Wall Crack (Right) VD 40
89 Adeste fideles VD 22
90 Mars Capone D 22
  Broken cleft
92 Dead Man's Handshake E5 6a/b *  
93 Genetic Love Affair VS 4b 2
94 The Big Chill E1 5a 2
Climb name Grade
95 Pint Handle Crack HVS 5a 3
96 Save the Down from Mankind E1 5b 2
97 Honeycomb E1 5c 10
98 Me' shell E2 5c ** 7
99 She Male VS 4c ** 3
100 Apparition
-
VS 4b * 20
101 True Identity
-
HVS 4c 1
  Ochre strip
103 Blocked VS 4b 2
104 OK Crack
-
S 6
105 Deception
-
VS 4b 5
106 Ochre Groove
-
VD 7
107 Bereaved
-
E1 5b 5
108 Bequeathed
-
E1 5c * 5
109 Beholden
-
E1 5b  
110 Cynical of Success
-
E3 5b  
111 The Bones of Goram
-
VS 4b * 4
112 Blind Man's Paradox
-
E1 6a 2
113 Blind Man's Paradox Indirect HVS 5a * 1
114 Retardis
-
HVS 4c 4
115 Travesty
-
E5 6a *  
116 Theopolis
-
E2 6a  
117 Black Comedy
-
E1 5b 5
118 Satyre
-
E3 6a * 3
119 Fun With Pyro
-
E2 5c 2
120 Overgrade, Undergrade: Wobbling Free
-
E1 5b 5
121 Needs Must
-
VS 4c 2
122 Bongo Workshop Bash
-
E2 5b  
123 Ben Baddoo
-
E2 5b  
124 Purge the Week Away
-
E2 5c  
125 The Brean Bone Chamber
-
E3 6a  
126 Pinnochio
-
E2 5b  
127 Nosejob
-
E3 5c  
  Hotaches Buttress
129 Before The Dawn
-
VS 4c * 2
130 Have-a-go Hero
-
E4 5c * 2
131 Hotaches
-
E1 5b * 6
132 Creak Machine
-
E2 6a * 2
133 Squeaky Clean
-
E4 6a ** 2
134 Lonely Corner
-
VD 1
  Choc Ice Gully
136 Isis
-
HVD 2
137 Osiris
-
HS 2
138 Horus
-
HS 4
139 Larry
-
HVD 2

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