Climbs 98
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 500m a.s.l
Faces all

Pili © vollaard

Crag features

Behind the typical bustling city of Murcia is a long range of hills. The high point is the rocky ridge of the Cresta del Gallo and at one end of this is the impressive tower of La Panocha, which translates appropriately as the Corncob. This is the best climbing venue in the immediate area, and a popular place at weekends with people escaping the city for a bit of cragging, hence it can get busy but during the week you are likely to have the place to yourself. The area has a full spread of grades, with many fine face-routes and a number of mini-summits to bag. Most of the routes are single pitch, though the biggest of these are almost 30m long. The routes have been popular for generations and many are very polished nowadays.

The Cresta del Gallo is at an altitude of almost 500m, so can be a little cooler than the valleys surrounding it. Being a ridge, there is often a breeze blowing and La Panocha has walls facing in all directions making it a viable venue at almost any time of the year.

Approach notes

The crag is situated southeast of the city of Murcia. From the north, follow the A7 motorway southeast then the A30 that runs round Murcia, towards Cartagena. Once past the city centre, take junction 148 signed 'La Alberca' (and 'Algezares'). Head into La Alberca and join the Mu302. Drive about 3km east on this then, about 200m past a petrol station on the left, make a sharp right turn signed to 'Santuari de la Fuensanta' - old sign, just past a small park area. Drive up the hill past the impressive religious buildings to a T-junction. Turn left and follow the road past a section of one-way road to the extensive parking in front of the cliff.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
Quite loose in a lot of places and one side of the Panocha looks ready to head down the hillside!!!
valentinesbabe - 18/Feb/13
Sector Lennon is the crag to the right of La Panocha facing the car park. Two minutes approach
Pencarth - 04/Apr/11
Probably worth mentioning that around Xmas time, the sun doesn't get high enough in the sky to shine on the lower part of the South face and lower right of the west face of the main crag. Therefore not really a good destination at that time of year (although sector Paisaje Lunar gets the sun until around 4.30 and is sheltered)
Neil Binns - 04/Jan/06
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Northwest Face
2 Antonio Mairal 4c ** 2
3 Freynet 7a ** 1
4 Maria Angeles 5c *** 5
5 Epi 7b  
6 Buriles 7a+  
7 Directa Norte 6b+ ** 4
8 Directissima 7c **  
9 Norte Baldomera 6c+ *** 6
10 Fisura Gallego 6b ** 7
11 Gallego - Cãnovas 7a+ *** 1
12 Gallego - Tirolinas 6c+ ** 2
13 Maneras de Sobre 6b+ ** 1
14 Fuensanta Maruja 7a ***  
  Sector Lennon
16 Mare Nostrum 4a 3
17 AC/DC 5a 4
18 Carmen 4c 2
19 Chapa'ande quieras 5c 3
20 COE 5c 7
21 Rodrigo 6a 8
22 Sueños Infinitos 5a 3
23 Feni 4a 1
24 John Lennon 6a+ 2
25 Piano 5c 2
26 Carlos 5a  
27 Ana 5a  
  South Face
29 Victoria Elvira 7b *  
30 Majura Directisima 6c **  
31 Variante Majura 6c+ ***  
32 Gallego - Carlos 6a+ *** 20
33 Pili Directa 6c * 4
34 Esther 6b ** 15
35 Pili 5a ** 53
36 Niña Bonita 6b ** 17
37 Porki 6a+ ** 14
38 Pipi 6a ** 27
39 Sur 5a * 30
40 'M' 6a+ * 4
41 Sur Directa 5c 6
42 Murciano - Catalana 5c ** 8
43 Sevi - Spiri 5c ** 19
44 Almirante 5a ** 32
45 Mar 6c * 4
46 Espolón Sureste 5a 1
47 San Bernardo 5a ** 8
48 Pep Camarena 6a+ * 10
49 Arista Sureste 4c * 10
  Sector Blanco
51 Zipe y Zape 6a+ 1
52 Dougal Haston 6c ** 2
53 Gato u Ocho Buriles 6c+ ** 5
54 Cirrosis 6b+ ** 9
55 Flauta Mágica 6c+ * 3
56 Cachondeos 6c+ ** 5
57 Directa Margarita 7b+ *  
58 Matas - Ginés 7b+ *  
59 Jaisa Tropel, no subas 6a+ 1
  Sector Caseta - Lower
61 Voy Compadre 6b+ * 1
62 Tijuana Brass 6a+ *  
63 Lagarto Juancho 6a *  
64 Raquel 6b * 1
65 O.J.E. 6a *  
66 Anfeta Local 6a+ ** 1
67 Direct Anfeta Local 6a *  
68 Bruce Lee
-
6a * 1
  Sector Quijar
70 Diedraco 5c  
71 Pájaro 5a ** 3
72 Variante I de la Pájaro 5a  
73 Variante II de la Pájaro 5a ** 1
74 Vistabella City 6b * 2
75 Sobredosis 6b * 2
76 Directa Ana, ascenisa 6a * 3
77 Botella 3+ 3
78 Espolón BB 4c * 2
79 Bonita 5c 2
80 Bonita Directa 6a * 15
81 Variante 2 de la Bonita 6a 3
82 Variante 1 de la Bonita 6b+ 6
  Sector Caseta - Upper
84 Fisura Matas 7a  
85 Placa del árbol 5a * 2
86 Mariá Cristina 6a * 3
87 Terodáctilo 5c ** 4
88 Consuelo-Sevi 5c  
  Paisaje Lunar
90 Cuatro patas 5a * 16
91 Gulliver 6a * 41
92 J.E.P. 5c * 34
93 Eliminate 6a+ 5
94 Anaconda 5c * 43
95 Súperanaconda 5a * 43
96 Fisura de la sinfonía 5a ** 51
97 Placa de la sinfonía 6a+ 44
98 Sinfonía 4a * 37
99 Espolón de la sinfonía 4a 5
100 Anda que no Andas ná 5a ** 27
101 Comecocos 6a+ * 26
102 Matogrosso 5a 9
103 Follando y el sol pegando 6a+ * 26
104 Excalibur 6a+ ** 18

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer dannyboy83