All details can be found in the Climbers' Club Wye Valley Supplement 2012
June 2018: There is a lot of loose rock on the crag and evidence of some VERY big rock falls. Care required.
August 2013: The route described in the 2012 supplement from the layby along the river is no longer viable. The turn up through the forest to the crag has been blocked by new barbed wire fencing put in place by the new landowner of the footpath who does not want people to cross it.
DO NOT APPROACH THIS WAY.
The only approach is to park in Great Barnets wood carpark and take the main wide track south (signposted Mounton Brook) through the woods then after 10 mins and 100 metres after a very sharp right-hand bend a path is taken on the left which leads down to the crag. 15-20 mins approach time.
Update, June 2018: Follow the main track as far as ST 50997 93695 then turn right down the track to the bottom of the crag (will upload a photo of location of right turn on OS app).
Easy to get to if you follow the directions given here, rather than the ones in the guidebook.
Bramble encroachment is getting to be a problem. LO wall is just about accessible, but protect your legs and take gardening equipment. Neighbourhood watch area looks completely engulfed. Sprawl Walls and Spectacle buttress are still relatively accessible and have some nice climbs. Lady Mill Buttress may also be slightly engulfed by brambles. Country_Boy - 06/Jun/19
Warning about VERY big rock falls is totally unjustified. There is a little loose but nothing out of the ordinary for he general area. In fact the place was much nicer in this visit, potentially due to a lot of trees being felled allowing light in. As I said before this place just need traffic. A very nice secluded crag. Felix Ottey - 29/Apr/19
A lovely spot. Plenty of space in the car park and a nice walk down through bluebell woods. Not sure we took exactly the right route as we ariived at the bottom of the crag from the south, but hey, it wasn’t difficult to find. Some good routes, and some that are pretty poor, but it’s definitely worth a visit. Country_Boy - 21/Apr/19
Really cool peaceful place away from the crowds. It really is a shame it doesn't seem to get just a little more traffic though.... get down there guys! I'll be back for sure. Felix Ottey - 02/Oct/16
Double Dip wall is looking sadly neglected. It's a shame as the climbing here is excellent. Paul Robertson - 03/Jul/14
The vegetation is starting to encroach at the base of Overhanging Wall. Neighbourhood Wall area is the driest section with the worst access. Otherwise a great little venue, worthy of a several visits. riddle - 01/Jun/14
Easier to find, I think, if you skirt the wood to the right from the car park as the book says, but then take the broad track left where there is a clearing (gate into field on your right), and turn right again down another broad track which takes you to the right-hand end of the crags. BusyLizzie - 15/Dec/12
This place is the very devil to get to Dan63 - 31/Jul/12
great new crag with some quality climbs. Stanners - 20/Nov/11