A large limestone slab in an old quarry. It faces south and tends to be sheltered. The friction is excellent but the rock quality isn't too good on those parts of the slab where it has a veneer of quartzy rock. The routes have been intensively cleaned and make best use of the good rock. Rock issues aside, the routes (F3 - F6b+) are actually very enjoyable. Double lower-offs.
Be wary of broken glass and the detritus from yoof activity in the quarry!
From the A55 come off at junction 31 to take the A5151 signposted to Prestatyn and Dyserth. Followed the road to Dyserth and after about 6 miles (and just after passing the Dyserth and 30 M.P.H. signs), and you have gone into the dip turn right into the “Dyserth to Prestatyn Walkway” car park (yellow barrier). Head out of the car park to follow the Dyserth to Prestatyn walkway. Pass under two bridges and in about 10 minutes you will cross a bridge over a path with a dog waste bin on the right (if the bridge goes over at road, you're a bridge too far). Here there is a path on the right which goes down to the underpass (may be signposted “Dyserth Castle”). Follow this footpath up the hill for about 100 yards to a junction and turn left down a good track into the quarry. The slab soon appears in front of you.
Nice little crag to spend an hour or two at, quite enjoyable climbing but the bolting (in my opinion) could be improved, as there are some big run outs between bolts especially low down on a few of the routes GazE83 - 15/Aug/19
Ref the loose bolt on Tegengle that looks like it has been replaced. The krab looks rusted but the mailon is good so threaded fine to descend off. Struggled finding the path off the main track with the leaf cover so spent a while walking around up near the other slab! For future ref the GR is SJ 06010 79809. Little bit of loose rock but nothing major and a few bits of glass but on the floor rather than the crag.
Happy climbing, great little crag! SebCa - 20/Nov/18
Advise wearing helmet at all times. Experienced a reasonable flake which fell off Isabella Rose, after my partner had already loaded with weight, but during his down climb. Also some small rocks showering us from above, most likely active birdlife above.
Great sheltered venue and great Sun trap July Rotorslap - 19/Jul/15
Just to let everyone know, we were here today and there's a lot of broken glass half way up 36 bolts to happiness on the ledges. We tried to remove as much as we could but without a brush couldn't get it all. nb148 - 13/Jul/14
Hi Otis, they are not siezed, but glued closed to discourage theft michael burrows - 22/May/14
May 2014: lower off carabiner & maillon at top of Tegengle/Purple ladies have seized. Perfectly safe, but needs threading, rather than clipping. Otis - 21/May/14
Climbed here last weekend, found the second to last bolt before the lower off on Tegengle to be loose. Be careful! AlunR - 03/Nov/12
It's worth wearing a helmet here as even the rope dragging over the rock dislodges quite an amount of material. Bob - 05/Mar/12