Climbs 18
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 106m a.s.l
Faces S
Dynoing for the crimp. © rockcat
Crag features
This quality sheltered and sunny crag has been a local's wll-kept secret since the 1980s. The main crag gives steep sections containing pockets and sharp edges, interspersed with juggy and sometimes slabby breaks, providing climbing which is often strenuous, sometimes surprisingly delicate and at times blind.
Ty Newydd is a sunny and very sheltered crag, lying as it does in a wooded south-facing hollow. In summer, the tree canopy will provide some shade on hot days and in spring/autumn the worst of the cold winds will be kept at bay. The rockface is steep and takes little drainage, so can be dry most of the year.
Approach notes
Park in the Prestatyn to Dyserth Way car park, situated on the north side of the A5151 in the dip just east of the main village.
From the car park, follow the tarmac surface of the Way northwards towards Prestatyn for 100m, to where an arched stone bridge crosses above. Ascend steps to the right of the bridge, pass through a kissing gate amongst the trees, then cross a footbridge onto a track. Turn left and follow the track uphill through rough terrain to where the footpath turns northeasterly along a fenceline; follow this for about 200m to a fence corner about 30m before a gate/stile. Turn right and walk downhill following the fenceline to gain an older fence alongside a wooded area. At the base of the valley, keep following this woodland boundary fence round to the left to reach a gate near the field corner. Go through the gate into the wooded area, head rightwards past old pheasant pens and steeply up to the crag.
Access Advice
On local farm land. Please text Mr Jones on 07717 257796 to request access.
No dogs allowed.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 21 June to 1 February
Reason: Other
There are sometimes seasonal restrictions for pheasant rearing and shooting: 1st September to 1st February inclusive.
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Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
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These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer michael burrows