Climbs 41
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 480m a.s.l
Faces S

As good as it gets on a fine sunny day? FA of Jeopardy, Craig yr Eglwys. © Dave Williams

Crag features

Craig yr Eglwys is a good little outcrop which offers a number of short climbs from D - E5. It is composed of hard Silurian sandstone and lies just to the north east the Hengwmannedd (Pumlumon) bouldering area, where it stands sentinel over the entrance to the relatively remote yet striking Cwm Gwarin*.

[* Sometime in the 1970s, the OS made a transcribing error which resulted in the mis-spelling of the valley's name on all subsequent and current 1:50 000 and 1:25 000 maps. Consequently it became Cwm Gwerin, although it's correct name is Cwm GWARIN - the 'Valley of the Rabbit Warren', a name which is still very much in local use.  By way of contrast, latest edition 1:10 000 OS maps show the valley with its correct name.]

Although the various buttresses are separated by some vegetated and broken rock, virtually all the routes here are worthwhile. The crag has a pleasant, open and sunny aspect. It dries quite quickly after rain and does not suffer from any significant seepage.

The best climbs here are the creme de la creme of  Elenydd outcrop climbing and are of a comparable quality to those found on the Peak District's eastern outcrops. The approach favours both the determined and the adventurous, who will be very well rewarded for their efforts by super climbing, peace and solitude. At the time of writing, this great little crag is sorely - and unfairly - neglected.

Approach notes

From the A487(T) Machynlleth to Aberystwyth road, turn off at Talybont and follow the mountain road, signposted Nant y Moch, to the reservoir. Follow the road round the reservoir and over the dam, then go uphill. Just after a cattle-grid turn left and follow another minor road towards Maesnant (O.S. ref 774 881). Park here at the end of the tarmac road, taking care not to block either of the two gates. It is also possible to reach this point from Ponterwyd on the A44 by following signs to Nant y Moch.

From the parking, go through the RH gate and follow the extremely rough track on foot for a mile, then just before the ford, turn right onto a path which heads upriver past a small plantation of conifers. Follow the hydrographic left bank of the Afon Hengwm for a mile on faint paths to the ruined farm of Hengwmannedd (which has the Pumlumon bouldering area just behind it (O.S. ref 797 893)). The final section can be a rather moist walking experience and wearing wellies is recommended in wetter periods. From the Hengwmannedd bouldering area, cross the Afon Gwarin before striking directly up the hillside/scree to the crag. (60 mins)


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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Odd One Out
HS 4b 4
2 Doctor Out Of Bourbons E2 6a  
3 Jockey Full Of Bourbon E3 6a * 2
4 A Question Of Sport VS 4c ** 5
5 One Hundred Years Of Solitude E3 6a * 1
6 The Weakest Link
S 4a 2
7 Play Your Cards Right
HS 4b  
8 Wipeout
VS 4c  
9 Celebrity Squares HS 4b *  
10 University Challenge HVS 5b ** 2
11 Fingers On The Buzzers E5 6b *  
12 Take Your Pick
HS 4b 1
13 The Golden Shot
HS 4b 1
14 Bullseye HVS 4c * 1
Climb name Grade
15 Sure Not To See A Soul E3 6b *  
16 Blockbusters VS 4c * 1
17 Top Of The Form
D 3
18 It's A Knockout
HVS 5b  
19 Bognor Or Bust
S 4b 2
20 Emerge The Bogmonsters E3 6a  
21 3-2-1
VD 2
22 Catchphrase
VD 3
23 Call My Bluff HVS 5b * 1
24 Just A Minute HVS 5a ** 3
25 Pointless
HS 4b  
26 The Cryptic Factor HVS 5a *  
27 Take It Or Leave It
VD 3
28 The Shard HVS 4c  
Climb name Grade
29 Countdown E3 5c **  
30 Big Break VS 4c *  
31 Double Jeopardy E4 6a *  
32 Jeopardy E3 5c ** 1
33 Through The Keyhole VD  
34 Ask The Family VS 4b 2
35 Distraction
36 Twenty Questions
37 The Generation Game
VS 4c 1
38 Treasure Hunt E2 5b * 3
39 You Bet!
40 Take Me Out HVS 5b *  
41 Winter Wipeout

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