UKC

Climbs 387
Rocktype Basalt

Faces NW

A very warm evening send of Physical Graffiti at Dumbarton Rock. © Jonathan Bean

Crag features

Glasgows best crag will test the strongest climbers with Chemin de Fer (E5) and Requiem (E8 6b) rated as Scotlands finest crack routes. Seven big boulders provide an excellent training ground. Scotland's first E9, Achemine, is here as well as Scotland's first Font 8a problem - Pongo (true sit start). [Stuart McNeil, Graham Foster]

Approach notes

From the car park a good path leads to the North Face and the Boulders.

Access Advice

Dumbarton Rock is a historic monument so do NOT climb into the castle grounds.

New resin bolts installed now installed "Bad Attitude" as well as "Half Breed" & "Unforgiven". The old rusty bolts will be chopped in due course.
JLS - 06/Oct/13
New resin bolts installed on Unforgiven and Halfbreed today. Treat with caution pending testing. Further bolt renewal on Halfbreed and Bad Attitude, as well as removal of the old bolts to follow.
JLS - 14/Sep/13
Online guide to Dumby with topos, gallery and videos can be found at: www.dumby.info
Jonathan Bean - 10/Jul/13
Dave Macleod's guide which was on scotlandonline (see above) has been moved to http://www.scottishoutdoors.co.uk/outdoors/dumbarton/intro.htm
gforce - 12/Jun/08
Bouldering with the giant imposing lines of Chemin de Fer (E5) and Requiem (E7) towering above is an experience not to be missed. You may find yourself spending a lot of time just gazing upwards at this sheer overhanging face. Longbow (E1) and Windjammer (HVS), just to the right, are great exercises in forced bridging, laybacking and jamming. Together with the graffiti, local kids, and River Clyde, Dumby is proper Glasgow hard stuff.
Paul Hutton - 31/Jul/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  North Face
2 Angel's Pavement f5  
3 Angel's Pavement Low f6A  
4 Beta
-
E1 5b 3
5 Antigrav E3 6a *  
6 Monsoon Gully
-
S 4b * 5
7 Nameless Crack
-
VD 1
  Gully Wall
9 Snowhite
-
E2 5b ** 8
  North-West Face
11 Route Three
-
HVS 5a * 10
12 Stonefall Crack
-
HVS 5a ** 76
13 Stonefall Crack Direct
-
HVS 5a 36
14 Payback Time! 7b+  
15 The Big Zipper
-
E3 5b ** 33
16 Woops E4 6a ** 5
17 Omerta 7c ** 22
18 Chemin de Fer E5 6a *** 24
19 Achemine E9 6c ***  
20 Cop Out
-
5.13c r **  
21 Rhapsody E11 7a 1
22 Direquiem
-
5.14a r **  
23 Unfinished Symphony 8b+ ** 1
24 Requiem
-
E8 6b *** 3
25 Requiem Direct Start E3 5b 1
26 Dumbarton Oaks (AKA La Dumby-Dumby Project) Project *** 2
27 Rock of Ages
-
E3 6a * 4
28 Persistence of Vision 7a+ *** 191
29 Eurovision 7a ** 5
30 Dumb and Dumber E7 6c **  
31 First Movement 6b+ ** 67
32 Abstract Movement 6b+ * 5
33 Abstract Art 6c ** 145
34 Cyclops
-
E5 6b * 1
35 Calm Before the Storm E6 6c *  
36 Dum Dum Boys
-
7c+ *** 7
37 Sufferance 8a *** 42
38 Endurance 8a ** 7
39 Suffix 8a ** 7
40 Persistance 8a * 2
41 Tarrier
-
8a ** 11
42 Tolerance 8b ** 2
43 Fever Pitch E4 5c ** 6
44 Fatso E4 5c *  
45 Negative Creep 8b 1
46 Appliance of Violence
-
7b+ ** 85
47 Gratuitous Violence 8a ** 1
48 Eh Gringo E4 5c *  
49 Desperado HVS 5a * 16
50 Blackout E6 6a ** 1
51 Windjammer
-
HVS 5a ** 118
52 Out on the Rigging HVS 5a 1
53 Bad Attitude
-
7b ** 45
54 Half Breed
-
7b ** 71
55 Unforgiven
-
7b *** 102
56 Friends in High Places E4 6a ** 2
57 Benny's Route Left-hand
-
7b 17
58 Benny's Route Right-hand
-
7c * 43
59 Natural Born Drillers 7a 84
  West Face
61 Dumbarton Chimney VS 4c 3
62 Easter Rib
-
S *** 16
63 Casanostra 6c+ * 10
64 Plunge
-
D *** 36
65 Sea Traverse/West Face Girdle f5+ 33
  Eagle Boulder
67 1920 Traverse VB 4a 24
68 Rankin's Bajin
-
VB 4a 82
69 Soixante Neuf
-
f3+ * 95
70 Pas Mal
-
f3 * 74
71 No.1 Route
-
f3+ * 105
72 Left Direct
-
f3 ** 96
73 Centre Direct
-
f4 * 101
74 Right Direct f3 49
75 No. 2 Route
-
VB 3a * 61
76 No. 2 Route SS f6B 11
77 Pullover
-
f5 * 145
78 No.2 Route Direct f4+ 52
79 Runs on Potato Power f7A * 15
80 Triple Bogey f6C 4
81 Double Bogey f6B * 14
82 Kev's Problem f7A * 20
83 John's Dyno f6B+ ** 11
84 Ramp Traverse f6C * 11
85 The Beastie f6A * 7
86 Bust My Chops LH f7A *** 28
87 Bust My Chops f7A ** 34
88 Bust My Chops RH f7A * 38
89 Bust Jeremy's Chops f7A ** 11
90 Treasure f7B * 12
91 Treasure Hunt f7B * 12
92 Fool's Gold f7A+ * 11
93 Old Faithful f5 * 9
94 Zig Zag f4 *** 148
95 Zig Zag SS f6C * 62
96 Zig Sit Start Super Low f6C+ ** 13
97 Zig Zag Variation f6A 15
98 Pullover Traverse f5+ 17
99 Jeremy's Problem f6C+ ** 18
100 Double Slopers f6A 26
101 Treasure Trail f7B+ ** 3
102 The Bampot Chop f6C+ * 6
103 Total Bampot f7A ** 4
104 Bampot Arete f6B+ * 37
105 Bampot Traverse f7A ** 26
106 Fouk Yee f7B * 3
107 Fouk Yer Chops Kev f7C 3
108 Tam's Route Sit Start f6A+ 8
109 Tam's Route f5+ 22
110 Tam's Route Original SS f7A 3
111 Shadow
-
f7A+ ** 2
112 The Story of the Hurricane f7A ** 1
113 Trick of the Vale f7B ** 2
114 High Flyer
-
f6C 8
115 Pressure
-
f8B 1
116 Firefight
-
f8B  
117 Smokescreen f7C * 6
118 Firestarter
-
f8A *** 4
119 Gorilla
-
f6B *** 132
120 Gorilla Warfare
-
f7A+ ** 21
121 Gorilla Hanging Start
-
f7A 31
122 Neil's Extension/Gorilla SS
-
f7B+ *** 23
123 Silver Back
-
f7C *** 18
124 Silverback Arete f7C+ *** 3
125 Silverware V9 ** 2
126 King Kong f8A 9
127 Cautious Lip f6B * 27
128 Mother Glasgow's Starlings f7B+ ***  
129 Shin Sekai
-
f6C+ * 15
130 Hoop f7C *** 5
131 Ladderman f7C ** 2
132 Bingham's Wall
-
f7B+ ** 1
133 Dressed for Success
-
f7B+ ** 5
134 Dressed into Ford
-
f7C+  
Climb name Grade
135 Dressed Reversed
-
f7B+  
136 Supinator
-
f6A+ * 27
137 Supinator XL f6B+ 1
138 The Legacy f6B+ 1
139 2HB
-
f6A *** 77
140 2HB SS f6B 5
141 A Ford Flash
-
f7B 1
142 Ford Capri f7A+  
143 Torino Sun f6B ** 27
144 Oceans
-
f7C 5
145 Sea Bed f8A *** 2
146 1990 Traverse f7B * 35
147 2016 Traverse f7B+ *  
148 Snappy f6B+ ** 13
149 Yappy f6B+ ** 13
150 The Blue Meanie f5 *** 166
151 PTO
-
f5 * 150
  Warm-up Wall
153 Left Edge
-
f3 * 250
154 Tuesday Wall f3+ 43
155 Fridays Fill f3 * 329
156 Friar's Mantle f4+ *** 402
157 Thursday Wall f5 56
158 Ungava f4+ 292
159 Warm Up Wall Dyno Eliminate f6A 4
160 Right Edge f3+ 223
161 Warmup Wall Low Traverse f5 172
  Home Rule
163 Orange Wall f6A 6
164 The Beast f3 54
165 The Brute f4 13
166 The Brute SS f5+ 4
167 Valkyrie f4+ 5
168 Encore Une Fois f7A * 7
169 Pas Encore f5 * 13
170 Crimp! f6B+ 9
171 More Chicken
-
f7A+ * 1
172 Head Butt f7A 18
173 More Malkstizo f7A ** 2
174 Chicken Butt f7A+ ** 1
175 Butt Head f7A+ 2
176 Malky Traverse f7B+ ** 15
177 Dagger f7B+ ** 8
178 Malky's Chicken f7B+ 4
179 Malkied f7C *** 11
180 Malky f7B+ * 48
181 Malky Sit Start f7C 1
182 Malky Schmalky f7C ** 8
183 Dweller f7B+ 1
184 Dweller (Mugsy jug finish) f7A 2
185 Set in Motion f7C+  
186 Hokku f8A * 1
187 Sosho f8A+ **  
188 Spam f7C * 16
189 Glasgow Kiss f7C+ *** 6
190 Spam Dagger f8A * 9
191 Mugsy Extension f7B+ ** 12
192 Mugsy Traverse f7B *** 57
193 Mugsy Sit Start f7B ** 20
194 Mugsy Static f7A+ *** 41
195 Mugsly f7B+ 2
196 Mugslife f7C 1
197 Mugsy (Ya Bass)
-
f7A *** 91
198 Houston We Have a Problem f7B  
199 Mestugso f7B ** 12
200 Malky's Sleazy Chicken f8A *** 2
201 Thoroughbred f7C+ 11
202 Nice and Sleazy f7C+ *** 17
203 Mugstizo f7B+ *** 12
204 Mugstizo High f7B ** 1
205 Mestizo Extension f7B+ ** 12
206 Mestizo Traverse f7B ** 56
207 Mestizo SS f7A+ ** 73
208 Mestizo f6A *** 141
209 Mestizo 'Direct'
-
f7A 3
210 Art Attack f7B 5
211 Power Relation f7B 1
212 Knowledge is Power f7B+ *** 4
213 Physical Graffiti f6B ** 71
214 Nice and Sleazier f7C+ ** 4
215 Eazy Sleazy f7C+ ** 2
216 Home Rule
-
f6A ** 169
217 Devolution f6C ** 18
218 Devo Max f6C * 7
219 Spray On f7B *  
220 Home Rule Low Traverse f7A+ * 30
221 Home Rule High Traverse f6B ** 42
222 Bob's Problem
-
f6A 10
223 Presence f5+ * 28
224 Royale Beauty f6B * 1
225 Route Royale E3 5c 18
226 Chicken Royale f6C 1
227 Royal Arete f6B 1
228 The Whip E2 5b ** 36
229 The Whip SS f6C * 30
230 The Whip SS Direct f6A+ * 5
231 The Switch f5 4
232 Einherjar f6B+ * 2
233 Skin Deep f6B+ * 4
234 Valhalla f4 10
235 The Beauty f4 9
  Suckers Boulder
237 P.S.
-
f3 5a 18
238 Cave Route f6A 4
239 Cave Route RH f6A+ 11
240 Unnamed Toto Gallagher Eliminate f7A 9
241 Toto f6A *** 243
242 Toto SS f7A 83
243 Toto Right Hand f6C ** 18
244 Totalled f7B ** 6
245 Totality f7B+ 16
246 Totality Direct Finish f7A+ * 21
247 Toto Traverse f7A+ 6
248 The Shield f7B+ *** 28
249 The Shield SS f7C ** 6
250 The Shield Right Hand
-
f7A+ * 8
251 The Shield Right Hand SS f7B * 1
252 Redpath's Problem f7B  
253 Power Pockets
-
f6C * 24
254 Power Pockets SS
-
f7C *  
255 Off The Rails f7A+ ** 1
256 Railing
-
f6B+ ** 148
257 Railings Extension f6B+ **  
258 Snooker Shelf
-
f4 40
259 Kneebar
-
f6A+ * 14
260 Mosca f3+ 15
261 Antimatter f4 3
262 Suckers Slab f4+ 14
263 Volpone f3 * 45
264 Smear Test f3 6
  B.N.I Boulder
266 Chahala Easy SS
-
f6A 4
267 Chahala f5+ ** 93
268 Chahala SS
-
f8A+ 1
Climb name Grade
269 Perfect Crime f8A+ ***  
270 Perfect Crime Extension f8B  
271 The Serum of Sisyphus f8A+ *** 1
272 The Grand Tour f8B  
273 Sanction f8B *** 2
274 Gut Buster f8B+ ***  
275 B.N.I. Direct Start f7B+ *** 15
276 Le Tour De Technique f7B+ ** 9
277 La Saboteur f8A+ *** 4
278 Sabotaged f8A *** 2
279 Sabotage f8A *** 22
280 The Elbow Basher
-
f7B+ 6
281 Very Ape
-
f6C 1
282 Good Nicks
-
f6B ** 54
283 Good Nicks SS
-
f6C ** 17
284 You're Nicked f7B 2
285 HP f6B+ 4
286 Pendulum
-
f4 *** 32
287 Revelation E4 6a  
288 Nadjilation E6 6b **  
289 Sugar Rush
-
f7B  
290 Harvester of Eyes
-
f3 20
291 Astronomy VB 30
292 Gratis Rib f3+ 3
293 Deo Gratis f4+ * 22
294 Imposter Arete f3+ *** 69
295 B.N.I. Direct f5+ 8
296 B.N.I.
-
f5 *** 14
  Pongo Boulder
298 Skint Cave Traverse f6B+ 9
299 Skint Knuckles
-
f4 * 71
300 Skint Sitter
-
f6C+ 6
301 Slap Happy SS f7A 9
302 Slap Happy f7A ** 169
303 Hap Slappy f7B+ 45
304 Slap Happy Dyno f7C *** 4
305 Happy Slap f7C+ * 9
306 Paedo Bikini f7C * 2
307 In Bloom f7C+ *** 16
308 In Bloom Arete f8A ** 1
309 Mr Tickle Extension f8A+ ** 1
310 Mr Tickle f8A ** 1
311 Pongo f6C+ *** 71
312 Pongo True SS f8A *** 13
313 Pongo Jump f7B 4
314 Pongo Static f7B+ 5
315 Pongo Knuckle f7C 4
316 Supersize Me f8B  
317 Rock Around the Bloc (Low) f6C * 5
318 Rock Around the Bloc (High) f6B * 5
319 Pongo Arete f7A+ ** 57
320 The Dumbartoner f7B+ **  
321 Andy's Arete f7A ** 30
322 Buzz Saw f7A+ 9
323 Sorcerer's Slab
-
f3 65
324 Magic Wand
-
f3+ 35
325 Slant
-
f3 40
326 Shothole SS f6A+ 11
327 The Groove f4+ 9
328 Nemesis Left
-
f4+ 5
329 Nemesis f5 * 107
330 Nemesis SS f6B ** 22
331 Nemesis SS Right
-
f6B+ 6
332 Narcosis f5 * 50
333 Narcosis SS f6A * 21
334 Lunik f4+ * 56
335 Lunik SS f6A+ 11
336 Rosie and Jim f5+ * 18
337 Cheddar Direct f4+ *** 183
338 Cheddar Direct SS f6A 21
339 Hard Cheddar Direct f6A+ * 13
340 Hard Cheddar
-
f5+ *** 241
341 Hard Cheddar SS f6A 61
342 Big Cheese
-
f7C+ ** 3
343 Le Rustique f7A ** 9
344 Cheese-bored f7A * 6
345 The Jugs Don't Work f6B+ ** 17
346 Juggie
-
f4 *** 81
347 The Ramp (Juggie Right)
-
f5 14
348 Jugs are for Mugs f6B * 6
349 Phoenix f7A 9
350 Consolidated f7B+ *** 50
351 Consolidated Extension f7C *** 25
352 Babybel f6C+ * 6
353 'Consoled' f7A+ 1
354 Solid f6C 2
355 ...Dated f7A+ 1
  Sea Boulder
357 The Crack f3 21
358 Short Wall f4+ 18
359 White Streak f6B ** 99
360 Steptoe f3+ * 165
361 Red Streak
-
f6A 101
362 Chowbok
-
f3+ ** 191
363 Erewhon f4+ 190
364 Tuesday Treat/Commercialism f6A 26
365 Commercial Route
-
f4 ** 163
366 Wednesday Wall f4 96
367 Silver's Route
-
f3+ * 151
368 Silver's Route SS f6C+ ** 11
369 Silver Rib f3+ 12
370 Silver Arete f6B 5
371 Gardner's Girdle f4 *** 73
  Triplets
373 Short Sight
-
f3+ 18
374 Honesty f7A 13
375 Reducer Arete Left
-
f5+ 11
376 Reducer Arete
-
f6A 22
377 Reducer
-
f7B 5
378 Long Reach
-
f5+ 15
379 Short Notice
-
f4+ 15
380 Ivy Rib f5+ 5
381 Ivy Traverse f5 6
  Black Wall
383 The Niche Left f5+ 8
384 The Niche
-
f6A 8
385 Black Wall Crack f5+ 23
386 Black Wall Circuit f6A * 20
387 Easy Crack f3+ 10
388 Mick T f4+ 9
389 Mick T SS f6A 8
  Everdry Wall
391 Longbow
-
E1 5b ** 96
392 Longbow SS
-
f5+ 10
393 The Slopers f7A 3
394 Old Man's Corner f6A 9
395 The Match f6B 4
396 This Place is Shit f6A 15
397 Liddell, Ha and Crombie f6A+ 3
398 Shattered Traverse High f6C 92
399 Shattered Traverse Low f7B ** 19
  Circuits
401 JLS training circuit f6A 6a 66
402 Stone Country Yellow Circuit f5+ ** 1

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