Climbs 375
Rocktype Basalt

Faces NW

A very warm evening send of Physical Graffiti at Dumbarton Rock. © Jonathan Bean

Crag features

Glasgows best crag will test the strongest climbers with Chemin de Fer (E5) and Requiem (E8 6b) rated as Scotlands finest crack routes. Seven big boulders provide an excellent training ground. Scotland's first E9, Achemine, is here as well as Scotland's first Font 8a problem - Pongo (true sit start). [Stuart McNeil, Graham Foster]

Approach notes

From the car park a good path leads to the North Face and the Boulders.

Access Advice

Dumbarton Rock is a historic monument so do NOT climb into the castle grounds.

New resin bolts installed now installed "Bad Attitude" as well as "Half Breed" & "Unforgiven". The old rusty bolts will be chopped in due course.
JLS - 06/Oct/13
New resin bolts installed on Unforgiven and Halfbreed today. Treat with caution pending testing. Further bolt renewal on Halfbreed and Bad Attitude, as well as removal of the old bolts to follow.
JLS - 14/Sep/13
Online guide to Dumby with topos, gallery and videos can be found at: www.dumby.info
Jonathan Bean - 10/Jul/13
Dave Macleod's guide which was on scotlandonline (see above) has been moved to http://www.scottishoutdoors.co.uk/outdoors/dumbarton/intro.htm
gforce - 12/Jun/08
Bouldering with the giant imposing lines of Chemin de Fer (E5) and Requiem (E7) towering above is an experience not to be missed. You may find yourself spending a lot of time just gazing upwards at this sheer overhanging face. Longbow (E1) and Windjammer (HVS), just to the right, are great exercises in forced bridging, laybacking and jamming. Together with the graffiti, local kids, and River Clyde, Dumby is proper Glasgow hard stuff.
Paul Hutton - 31/Jul/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Main Crags 
2Beta
-
E1 5b 3
3AntigravE3 6a * 
4Monsoon Gully
-
S 4b *5
5Nameless Crack
-
VD 1
6Snowhite
-
E2 5b **7
7Route Three
-
HVS 5a *10
8Stonefall Crack
-
HVS 5a **73
9Stonefall Crack Direct
-
HVS 5a 29
10Payback Time!7b+  
11The Big Zipper
-
E3 5b **28
12WoopsE4 6a **6
13Omerta7c **26
14Chemin de FerE5 6a ***49
15AchemineE9 6c *** 
16Cop Out
-
5.13c r ** 
17RhapsodyE11 7a 19
18Direquiem
-
5.14a r ** 
19Unfinished Symphony8b+ **1
20Requiem
-
E8 6b ***2
21Requiem Direct StartE3 5b  
22Dumbarton Oaks (AKA La Dumby-Dumby Project)Project ***1
23Rock of Ages
-
E3 6a *4
24Dumb and DumberE7 6c ** 
25Persistence of Vision7a+ ***181
26First Movement6b+ **55
27Abstract Movement6b+ *4
28Abstract Art6c **136
29Cyclops
-
E5 6b *1
30Calm Before the StormE6 6c * 
31Dum Dum Boys
-
7c+ ***7
32Sufferance8a ***58
33Endurance8a **6
34Suffix8a **5
35Persistance8a *2
36Tarrier
-
8a **10
37Tolerance8b **2
38Fever PitchE4 5c **6
39FatsoE4 5c * 
40Negative Creep8b 1
41Appliance of Violence
-
7b+ **85
42Gratuitous Violence8a **1
43Eh GringoE4 5c * 
44DesperadoHVS 5a *16
45BlackoutE6 6a **1
46Windjammer
-
HVS 5a **120
47Out on the RiggingHVS 5a 1
48Bad Attitude
-
7b **39
49Half Breed
-
7b **67
50Unforgiven
-
7b ***100
51Friends in High PlacesE4 6a **1
52Benny's Route Left-hand
-
7b 17
53Benny's Route Right-hand
-
7c *32
54Natural Born Drillers7a 82
55Dumbarton ChimneyVS 4c 2
56Easter Rib
-
S ***22
57Casanostra6c+ *7
58Plunge
-
D ***42
 Eagle Boulder 
601920 TraverseVB 19
61Rankin's Bajin
-
VB 74
62Soixante Neuf
-
f3+ *88
63Pas Mal
-
f3 *69
64No.1 Route
-
f3+ *99
65Left Direct
-
f3 **88
66Centre Direct
-
f4 *93
67Right Directf3 47
68No. 2 Route
-
VB *54
69No. 2 Route SSf6B 12
70Pullover
-
f5 *139
71No.2 Route Directf4+ 49
72Runs on Potato Powerf7A *13
73Triple Bogeyf6C 4
74Double Bogeyf6B *15
75Kev's Problemf7A *22
76John's Dynof6B+ **11
77Ramp Traversef6C *11
78The Beastief6A *7
79Bust My Chops LHf7A ***30
80Bust My Chopsf7A **33
81Bust My Chops RHf7A *38
82Bust Jeremy's Chopsf7A **12
83Treasuref7B *10
84Treasure Huntf7B *12
85Fool's Goldf7A+ *11
86Old Faithfulf5 *8
87Zig Zagf4 ***140
88Zig Zag SSf6C *58
89Zig Sit Start Super Lowf6C+ **13
90Zig Zag Variationf6A 15
91Pullover Traversef5+ 15
92Jeremy's Problemf6C+ **18
93Double Slopersf6A 23
94Treasure Trailf7B **3
95The Bampot Chopf6C+ *6
96Total Bampotf7A **3
97Bampot Aretef6B+ *35
98Bampot Traversef7A **25
99Fouk Yeef7B *3
100Fouk Yer Chops Kevf7C 3
101Tam's Route Sit Startf6A+ 6
102Tam's Routef5+ 20
103Tam's Route Original SSf7A 3
104Shadow
-
f7A+ **2
105The Story of the Hurricanef7A **1
106Trick of the Valef7B **2
107High Flyer
-
f6C 6
108Pressure
-
f8B  
109Firefight
-
f8B  
110Smokescreenf7C *4
111Firestarter
-
f8A ***12
112Gorilla
-
f6B ***120
113Gorilla Warfare
-
f7A+ **19
114Gorilla Hanging Start
-
f7A 32
115Neil's Extension/Gorilla SS
-
f7B+ ***27
116Silver Back
-
f7C ***25
117Silverback Aretef7C+ ***3
118King Kongf8A 13
119Cautious Lipf6B *26
120Mother Glasgow's Starlingsf7B+ *** 
121Shin Sekai
-
f6C+ *14
122Hoopf7C ***5
123Laddermanf7C **1
124Bingham's Wall
-
f7B+ **1
125Dressed for Success
-
f7B+ **5
126Dressed into Ford
-
f7C+  
127Dressed Reversed
-
f7B+  
128Supinator
-
f6A+ *24
129Supinator XLf6B+ 1
130The Legacyf6B+ 1
1312HB
-
f6A ***70
1322HB SSf6B 5
133A Ford Flash
-
f7B 1
134Ford Caprif7A+  
135Torino Sunf6B **27
136Oceans
-
f7C 5
137Sea Bedf8A ***2
1381990 Traversef7B *35
1392016 Traversef7B+ * 
140Snappyf6B+ **13
141Yappyf6B+ **9
142The Blue Meanief5 ***154
143PTO
-
f5 *139
 Warm-up Wall 
145Left Edge
-
f3 *228
146Tuesday Wallf3+ 31
147Fridays Fillf3 *304
148Friar's Mantlef4+ ***363
149Thursday Wallf5 43
150Ungavaf4+ 268
151Right Edgef3+ 202
152Warmup Wall Low Traversef5 155
 Home Rule 
154Orange Wallf6A 6
155The Beastf3 49
156The Brute
-
f4 14
157The Brute SSf5+ 4
158Valkyrie
-
f4+ 5
159Encore Une Foisf7A *6
160Pas Encoref5 *13
161Crimp!f6B+ 7
162More Chicken
-
f7A+ *1
163Head Buttf7A 14
164More Malkstizof7A **2
165Chicken Buttf7A+ **1
166Butt Headf7A+ 2
167Malky Traversef7B+ **13
168Daggerf7B+ **5
169Malky's Chickenf7B+ 4
170Malkiedf7C ***10
171Malkyf7B+ *43
172Dwellerf7B+  
173Dweller (Mugsy jug finish)f7A 1
174Set in Motionf7C+  
175Hokkuf8A * 
176Soshof8A+ ** 
177Spamf7C *19
178Glasgow Kissf7C+ ***6
179Spam Daggerf8A *7
180Mugsy Extensionf7B+ **9
181Mugsy Traversef7B ***56
182Mugsy Sit Startf7B **17
183Mugsy Staticf7A+ ***36
184Mugsy (Ya Bass)
-
f7A ***91
185Houston We Have a Problemf7B  
186Mestugsof7B **11
187Malky's Sleazy Chickenf8A ***2
188Thoroughbredf7C+ 9
189Nice and Sleazyf7C+ ***16
190Mugstizof7B+ ***14
191Mestizo Extensionf7B+ **10
192Mestizo Traverse
-
f7B **55
193Mestizo SS
-
f7A+ **72
194Mestizof6A ***131
195Mestizo 'Direct'
-
f7A 3
196Art Attackf7B 5
197Knowledge is Powerf7B+ ***3
198Physical Graffitif6B **77
199Nice and Sleazierf7C+ **4
200Eazy Sleazyf7C+ **1
201Home Rule
-
f6A **158
202Devolutionf6C **17
203Devo Maxf6C *7
204Spray Onf7B * 
205Home Rule Low Traversef7A+ *27
206Home Rule High Traversef6B **40
207Bob's Problem
-
f6A 10
208Presencef5+ *25
209Royale Beautyf6B *1
210Route RoyaleE3 5c 16
211Chicken Royalef6C 1
212Royal Aretef6B 1
213The WhipE2 5b **31
214The Whip SSf6C *30
215The Whip SS Directf6A+ *5
216The Switchf5 4
217Einherjarf6B+ *2
218Skin Deepf6B+ *3
219Valhallaf4 11
220The Beauty
-
f4 8
 Suckers Boulder 
222P.S.
-
f3 16
223Cave Routef6A 4
224Cave Route RHf6A+ 10
225Unnamedf7A 8
226Toto
-
f6A ***227
227Toto SSf7A 88
228Toto Right Handf6C **20
229Totalledf7B **5
230Totalityf7B+ 13
231Totality Direct Finishf7A+ *21
232Toto Traversef7A+ 6
233The Shield
-
f7B+ ***29
234The Shield SS
-
f7C **6
235The Shield Right Hand
-
f7A+ *8
236The Shield Right Hand SSf7B *1
237Redpath's Problemf7B  
238Power Pockets
-
f6C *23
239Power Pockets SS
-
f7C * 
240Off The Railsf7A+ **1
241Railing
-
f6B+ **143
242Railings Extensionf6B+ ** 
243Snooker Shelf
-
f4 40
244Kneebar
-
f6A+ *13
245Mosca
-
f3+ 13
246Antimatterf4 2
247Suckers Slab
-
f4+ 14
248Volpone
-
f3 *40
249Smear Testf3 4
 B.N.I Boulder 
251Chahala Easy SS
-
f6A 3
252Chahalaf5+ **82
253Chahala SS
-
f8A+  
254Perfect Crimef8A+ *** 
255Perfect Crime Extensionf8B  
256The Serum of Sisyphusf8A+ ***1
257The Grand Tourf8B  
258Sanctionf8B ***1
259Gut Busterf8B+ *** 
260B.N.I. Direct Startf7B+ ***13
261Le Tour De Techniquef7B+ **8
262La Saboteurf8A+ ***4
263Sabotagedf8A ***2
264Sabotagef8A ***28
265The Elbow Basher
-
f7B+ 5
266Very Ape
-
f6C 1
267Good Nicks
-
f6B **51
268Good Nicks SS
-
f6C **17
269You're Nicked
-
f7B 2
270HPf6B+ 4
271Pendulum
-
f4 ***28
272RevelationE4 6a  
273NadjilationE6 6b ** 
274Sugar Rush
-
f7B  
275Harvester of Eyes
-
f3 19
276Astronomy
-
VB 26
277Gratis Ribf3+ 1
278Deo Gratis
-
f4+ *20
279Imposter Aretef3+ ***60
280B.N.I. Directf5+ 5
281B.N.I.
-
f5 ***13
 Pongo Boulder 
283Skint Cave Traversef6B+ 8
284Skint Knuckles
-
f4 *67
285Skint Sitter
-
f6C+ 4
286Slap Happy SSf7A 8
287Slap Happy
-
f7A **165
288Hap Slappy
-
f7B+ 36
289Slap Happy Dynof7C ***3
290Happy Slapf7C+ *7
291Paedo Bikinif7C *1
292In Bloom
-
f7C+ ***22
293In Bloom Aretef8A **1
294Mr Tickle Extensionf8A+ **1
295Mr Ticklef8A **1
296Pongo
-
f6C+ ***71
297Pongo True SSf8A ***22
298Pongo Jumpf7B 4
299Pongo Staticf7B+ 5
300Pongo Knucklef7C 4
301Supersize Mef8B  
302Rock Around the Bloc (Low)f6C *5
303Rock Around the Bloc (High)f6B *5
304Pongo Aretef7A+ **55
305The Dumbartonerf7B+ ** 
306Andy's Aretef7A **33
307Buzz Sawf7A+ 9
308Sorcerer's Slab
-
f3 59
309Magic Wand
-
f3+ 33
310Slant
-
f3 37
311Shothole SSf6A+ 10
312The Groovef4+ 6
313Nemesis Left
-
f4+ 3
314Nemesisf5 *99
315Nemesis SSf6B **21
316Nemesis SS Right
-
f6B+ 6
317Narcosisf5 *46
318Narcosis SSf6A *20
319Lunikf4+ *53
320Lunik SSf6A+ 10
321Rosie and Jimf5+ *16
322Cheddar Direct
-
f4+ ***169
323Cheddar Direct SSf6A 16
324Hard Cheddar Directf6A+ *9
325Hard Cheddar
-
f5+ ***223
326Hard Cheddar SSf6A 59
327Big Cheese
-
f7C+ **3
328Le Rustiquef7A **6
329Cheese-boredf7A *5
330The Jugs Don't Workf6B+ **15
331Juggie
-
f4 ***75
332The Ramp (Juggie Right)
-
f5 11
333Jugs are for Mugsf6B *3
334Phoenixf7A 7
335Consolidatedf7B+ ***53
336Consolidated Extensionf7C ***26
337Babybelf6C+ *6
 Sea Boulder 
339The Crackf3 13
340Short Wallf4+ 11
341White Streakf6B **87
342Steptoef3+ *154
343Red Streak
-
f6A 96
344Chowbok
-
f3+ **179
345Erewhonf4+ 177
346Tuesday Treat/Commercialismf6A 23
347Commercial Route
-
f4 **153
348Wednesday Wall
-
f4 89
349Silver's Route
-
f3+ *144
350Silver's Route SSf6C+ **10
351Silver Ribf3+ 8
352Silver Aretef6B 4
353Gardner's Girdlef4 ***71
 Triplets 
355Short Sight
-
f3+ 18
356Honestyf7A 10
357Reducer Arete Left
-
f5+ 9
358Reducer Arete
-
f6A 18
359Reducer
-
f7B 4
360Long Reach
-
f5+ 12
361Short Notice
-
f4+ 13
362Ivy Ribf5+ 4
363Ivy Traversef5 4
364Sea Traverse/West Face Girdlef5+ 30
 Black Wall 
366The Niche Leftf5+ 7
367The Niche
-
f6A 6
368Black Wall Crackf5+ 23
369Black Wall Circuitf6A *15
370Easy Crackf3+ 8
371Mick Tf4+ 8
372Mick T SSf6A 6
 everdry wall 
374Longbow
-
E1 5b **99
375Longbow SS
-
f5+ 8
376The Slopersf7A 3
377Old Man's Cornerf6A 8
378The Matchf6B 4
379This Place is Shitf6A 13
380Liddell, Ha and Crombief6A+ 2
381Shattered Traverse Highf6C 84
382Shattered Traverse Lowf7B **19
 Circuits 
384JLS training circuitf6A 64
385Stone Country Yellow Circuitf5+ **1

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