Climbs 399
Rocktype Basalt

Faces NW

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A very warm evening send of Physical Graffiti at Dumbarton Rock. © Jonathan Bean

Crag features

Glasgows best crag will test the strongest climbers with Chemin de Fer (E5) and Requiem (E8 6b) rated as Scotlands finest crack routes. Seven big boulders provide an excellent training ground. Scotland's first E9, Achemine, is here as well as Scotland's first Font 8a problem - Pongo (true sit start). [Stuart McNeil, Graham Foster]

Approach notes

From the car park a good path leads to the North Face and the Boulders.

Access Advice

Dumbarton Rock is a historic monument so do NOT climb into the castle grounds.

New resin bolts installed now installed "Bad Attitude" as well as "Half Breed" & "Unforgiven". The old rusty bolts will be chopped in due course.
JLS - 06/Oct/13
New resin bolts installed on Unforgiven and Halfbreed today. Treat with caution pending testing. Further bolt renewal on Halfbreed and Bad Attitude, as well as removal of the old bolts to follow.
JLS - 14/Sep/13
Online guide to Dumby with topos, gallery and videos can be found at: www.dumby.info
Jonathan Bean - 10/Jul/13
Dave Macleod's guide which was on scotlandonline (see above) has been moved to http://www.scottishoutdoors.co.uk/outdoors/dumbarton/intro.htm
gforce - 12/Jun/08
Bouldering with the giant imposing lines of Chemin de Fer (E5) and Requiem (E7) towering above is an experience not to be missed. You may find yourself spending a lot of time just gazing upwards at this sheer overhanging face. Longbow (E1) and Windjammer (HVS), just to the right, are great exercises in forced bridging, laybacking and jamming. Together with the graffiti, local kids, and River Clyde, Dumby is proper Glasgow hard stuff.
Paul Hutton - 31/Jul/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  North Face
2 Angel's Pavement f5  
3 Angel's Pavement Low f6A  
4 Beta
-
E1 5b 3
5 Antigrav E3 6a *  
6 Monsoon Gully
-
S 4b * 5
7 Nameless Crack
-
VD 1
  Gully Wall
9 Snowhite
-
E2 5b ** 8
  North-West Face
11 Stonefall Wall E4 6a  
12 Eliminator E6 6b *  
13 Route Three
-
HVS 5a * 14
14 Stonefall Crack
-
HVS 5a ** 91
15 Stonefall Crack Direct
-
HVS 5a 40
16 Payback Time! 7b+  
17 The Big Zipper
-
E3 5b ** 35
18 Woops E4 6a ** 5
19 Omerta 7c *** 22
20 Chemin de Fer E5 6a *** 33
21 Achemine E9 6c ***  
22 Cop Out
-
5.13c r **  
23 Rhapsody E11 7a 1
24 Direquiem
-
5.14a r **  
25 Unfinished Symphony 8b+ ** 1
26 Requiem
-
E8 6b *** 3
27 Requiem Direct Start E3 5b 1
28 Dumbarton Oaks (AKA La Dumby-Dumby Project) Project *** 1
29 Rock of Ages
-
E3 6a * 4
30 Persistence of Vision 7a+ *** 214
31 Eurovision 7a ** 24
32 Dumb and Dumber E7 6c **  
33 First Movement 6b+ ** 80
34 Abstract Movement 6b+ * 6
35 Abstract Art 6c+ * 158
36 Cyclops
-
E5 6b * 1
37 Calm Before the Storm E6 6c *  
38 Dum Dum Boys 7c+ *** 7
39 Sufferance 8a *** 51
40 Endurance 8a ** 7
41 Suffix 8a * 7
42 Persistance 8a * 2
43 Tarrier 7c+ ** 12
44 Tolerance 8a+ ** 2
45 Fever Pitch E4 5c ** 7
46 Fatso E4 5c *  
47 Negative Creep 8b * 1
48 Appliance of Violence 7b+ * 95
49 Gratuitous Violence 8a ** 1
50 Eh Gringo E4 5c *  
51 Desperado HVS 5a * 20
52 Blackout E6 6a ** 1
53 Windjammer
-
HVS 5a ** 128
54 Out on the Rigging HVS 5a 2
55 Bad Attitude 7b 49
56 Half Breed 7b *** 81
57 Unforgiven 7b *** 123
58 Friends in High Places E4 6a ** 2
59 Benny's Route Left-hand 7b * 19
60 Benny's Route Right-hand 7c * 44
61 Natural Born Drillers 7a * 90
  West Face
63 Dumbarton Chimney VS 4c 2
64 Easter Rib
-
S *** 18
65 Casanostra 6c+ * 10
66 Plunge
-
D *** 38
67 Sea Traverse/West Face Girdle f5+ 35
  Eagle Boulder
69 1920 Traverse VB 4a 25
70 Rankin's Bajin
-
VB 4a 87
71 Soixante Neuf
-
f3+ * 100
72 Pas Mal
-
f3 * 79
73 No.1 Route
-
f3+ * 111
74 Left Direct
-
f3 ** 104
75 Centre Direct
-
f4 * 104
76 Right Direct f3 52
77 No. 2 Route
-
VB 3a * 67
78 No. 2 Route SS f6B 11
79 No.2 Route Direct f4+ 56
80 Pullover
-
f5 * 149
81 Condor V5 * 1
82 Runs on Potato Power f7A * 15
83 Triple Bogey f6C 4
84 Double Bogey f6B * 14
85 Kev's Problem f7A * 22
86 John's Dyno f6B+ ** 11
87 Ramp Traverse f6C * 11
88 The Beastie f6A * 7
89 Bust My Chops LH f7A *** 33
90 Bust My Chops f7A ** 37
91 Bust My Chops RH f7A * 44
92 Bust Jeremy's Chops f7A ** 12
93 Treasure f7B * 13
94 Treasure Hunt f7B * 14
95 Fool's Gold f7A+ * 12
96 Old Faithful f5 * 11
97 Zig Zag f4 *** 153
98 Zig Zag SS f6C * 66
99 Zig Sit Start Super Low f6C+ ** 14
100 Zig Zag Variation f6A 15
101 Pullover Traverse f5+ 18
102 Jeremy's Problem f6C+ ** 18
103 Double Slopers f6A 28
104 Treasure Trail f7B+ ** 3
105 The Bampot Chop f6C+ * 6
106 Total Bamchop * f7A 1
107 Total Bampot f7A ** 4
108 Bampot Arete f6B+ * 37
109 Bampot Traverse f7A ** 29
110 Fouk Yee f7B * 4
111 Fouk Yer Chops Kev f7C 3
112 Tam's Route Sit Start f6A+ 8
113 Tam's Route f5+ 25
114 Tam's Route Original SS f7A 3
115 Shadow
-
f7A+ ** 2
116 The Story of the Hurricane f7A ** 1
117 Trick of the Vale f7B ** 2
118 High Flyer
-
f6C 8
119 Pressure
-
f8B 1
120 Firefight
-
f8B  
121 Smokescreen f7C * 6
122 Firestarter
-
f8A *** 4
123 Gorilla
-
f6B *** 143
124 Gorilla Warfare
-
f7A+ ** 22
125 Gorilla Warfare Hanging Start f7A+ ** 1
126 Gorilla Hanging Start
-
f7A 33
127 Neil's Extension/Gorilla SS
-
f7B+ *** 24
128 Silver Back
-
f7C *** 19
129 Silverback Arete f7C+ *** 3
130 Silverware V9 ** 2
131 King Kong f8A 9
132 Cautious Lip f6B * 28
133 Mother Glasgow's Starlings f7B+ ***  
134 Shin Sekai
-
f6C+ * 15
135 Hoop f7C *** 6
136 Ladderman f7C ** 2
137 Bingham's Wall
-
f7B+ ** 1
138 Dressed for Success
-
f7B+ ** 5
Climb name Grade
139 Dressed into Ford
-
f7C+  
140 Dressed Reversed
-
f7B+  
141 Supinator
-
f6A+ * 31
142 Supinator XL f6B+ 1
143 The Legacy f6B+ 1
144 2HB
-
f6A *** 78
145 2HB SS f6B 6
146 A Ford Flash
-
f7B 1
147 Ford Capri f7A+  
148 Torino Sun f6B ** 28
149 Oceans
-
f7C 5
150 Sea Bed f8A *** 2
151 1990 Traverse f7B * 36
152 2016 Traverse f7B+ *  
153 Snappy f6B+ ** 13
154 Yappy f6B+ ** 13
155 The Blue Meanie f5 *** 175
156 Green Meanie f5 4
157 PTO
-
f5 * 158
158 PTO Right Hand f4+ 5
  Warm-up Wall
160 Left Edge
-
f3 * 270
161 Tuesday Wall f3+ 49
162 Fridays Fill f3 * 352
163 Friar's Mantle f4+ *** 430
164 Thursday Wall f5 61
165 Ungava f4+ 310
166 Warm Up Wall Dyno Eliminate f6A 5
167 Right Edge f3+ 235
168 Warmup Wall Low Traverse f5 183
  Home Rule
170 Orange Wall f6A 7
171 The Beast f3 58
172 The Brute f4 13
173 The Brute SS f5+ 5
174 Valkyrie f4+ 7
175 Encore Une Fois f7A * 7
176 Pas Encore f5 * 15
177 Crimp! f6B+ 10
178 More Chicken
-
f7A+ * 2
179 Head Butt f7A 19
180 More Malkstizo f7A ** 3
181 Chicken Butt f7A+ ** 1
182 Butt Head f7A+ 2
183 Malky Traverse f7B+ ** 17
184 Dagger f7B+ ** 9
185 Malky's Chicken f7B+ 5
186 Malkied f7C *** 12
187 Malky f7B+ * 51
188 Malky Sit Start f7C 3
189 Malky Schmalky f7C ** 10
190 Dweller f7B+ 2
191 Dweller (Mugsy jug finish) f7A 6
192 Set in Motion f7C+  
193 Hokku f8A * 1
194 Sosho f8A+ **  
195 Spam f7C * 19
196 Spamsly * f7C+ 1
197 Glasgow Kiss f7C+ *** 7
198 Spam Dagger f8A * 9
199 Mugsy Extension f7B+ ** 14
200 Mugsy Traverse f7B *** 58
201 Mugsy Sit Start f7B ** 21
202 Mugsy Static f7A+ *** 50
203 Mugsly f7B+ 3
204 Mugslife f7C 1
205 Mugsy (Ya Bass)
-
f7A *** 94
206 Houston We Have a Problem f7B  
207 Mestugso f7B ** 12
208 Malky's Sleazy Chicken f8A *** 3
209 Thoroughbred f7C+ 12
210 Nice and Sleazy f7C+ *** 18
211 Mugstizo f7B+ *** 12
212 Mugstizo High f7B ** 4
213 Mestizo Extension f7B+ ** 14
214 Mestizo Traverse f7B ** 60
215 Mestizo SS f7A+ ** 80
216 Mestizo f6A *** 154
217 Mestizo 'Direct'
-
f7A 3
218 Art Attack f7B 5
219 Power Relation f7B 2
220 Knowledge is Power f7B+ *** 4
221 Physical Graffiti f6B ** 72
222 Nice and Sleazier f7C+ ** 4
223 Eazy Sleazy f7C+ ** 2
224 Home Rule
-
f6A ** 174
225 Devolution f6C ** 18
226 Devo Max f6C * 7
227 Spray On f7B * 1
228 Home Rule Low Traverse f7A+ * 32
229 Home Rule High Traverse f6B ** 43
230 Bob's Problem
-
f6A 10
231 Presence f5+ * 28
232 Royale Beauty f6B * 1
233 Route Royale E3 5c 19
234 Chicken Royale f6C 2
235 Royal Arete f6B 2
236 The Whip E2 5b ** 38
237 The Whip SS f6C * 30
238 The Whip SS Direct f6A+ * 5
239 The Switch f5 4
240 Einherjar f6B+ * 2
241 Skin Deep f6B+ * 4
242 Valhalla f4 11
243 The Beauty f4 10
  Suckers Boulder
245 P.S.
-
f3 5a 19
246 Cave Route f6A 4
247 Cave Route RH f6A+ 11
248 Unnamed Toto Gallagher Eliminate f7A 10
249 Unnamed Toto Watson Eliminate f6B 1
250 Toto f6A *** 258
251 Toto SS f7A 90
252 Toto Right Hand f6C ** 18
253 Totalled f7B ** 7
254 Totality f7B+ 17
255 Totality Direct Finish f7A+ * 21
256 Toto Traverse f7A+ 6
257 The Shield f7B+ *** 28
258 The Shield SS f7C ** 6
259 The Shield Right Hand
-
f7A+ * 11
260 The Shield Right Hand SS f7B * 2
261 Redpath's Problem f7B  
262 Power Pockets
-
f6C * 26
263 Power Pockets SS
-
f7C *  
264 Off The Rails f7A+ ** 1
265 Railing
-
f6B+ ** 154
266 Railings Extension f6B+ ** 1
267 Snooker Shelf
-
f4 41
268 Kneebar
-
f6A+ * 14
269 Mosca f3+ 16
270 Antimatter f4 3
271 Suckers Slab f4+ 14
272 Volpone f3 * 48
273 Smear Test f3 6
  B.N.I Boulder
275 Chahala Easy SS
-
f6A 5
276 Chahala f5+ ** 100
Climb name Grade
277 Chahala SS
-
f8A+ 1
278 Perfect Crime f8A+ ***  
279 Perfect Crime Extension f8B  
280 The Serum of Sisyphus f8A+ *** 1
281 The Grand Tour f8B  
282 Sanction f8B *** 2
283 Gut Buster f8B+ ***  
284 B.N.I. Direct Start f7B+ *** 15
285 Le Tour De Technique f7B+ ** 10
286 La Saboteur f8A+ *** 4
287 Sabotaged f8A *** 2
288 Sabotage f8A *** 25
289 The Elbow Basher
-
f7B+ 6
290 Very Ape
-
f6C 1
291 Good Nicks
-
f6B ** 54
292 Good Nicks SS
-
f6C ** 17
293 You're Nicked f7B 2
294 HP f6B+ 4
295 Pendulum
-
f4 *** 34
296 Revelation E4 6a 1
297 Nadjilation E6 6b **  
298 Sugar Rush
-
f7B  
299 Harvester of Eyes
-
f3 21
300 Astronomy VB 33
301 Gratis Rib f3+ 3
302 Deo Gratis f4+ * 23
303 Imposter Arete f3+ *** 74
304 B.N.I. Direct f5+ 8
305 B.N.I.
-
f5 *** 16
  Pongo Boulder
307 Skint Cave Traverse f6B+ 9
308 Skint Knuckles
-
f4 * 72
309 Skint Sitter
-
f6C+ 6
310 Slap Happy SS f7A 10
311 Slap Happy f7A ** 181
312 Hap Slappy f7B+ 48
313 Slap Happy Dyno f7C *** 4
314 Happy Slap f7C+ * 9
315 Paedo Bikini f7C * 3
316 In Bloom f7C+ *** 15
317 In Bloom Arete f8A ** 1
318 Mr Tickle Extension f8A+ ** 1
319 Mr Tickle f8A ** 1
320 Pongo f7A *** 76
321 Pongo True SS f8A *** 14
322 Pongo Jump f7B 5
323 Pongo Static f7B+ 8
324 Pongo Knuckle f7C 4
325 Supersize Me f8B  
326 Rock Around the Bloc (Low) f6C * 5
327 Rock Around the Bloc (High) f6B * 5
328 Pongo Arete f7A+ ** 56
329 Embrace The Rock V7 **  
330 Amalgamated * f7C  
331 The Dumbartoner f7B+ **  
332 Andy's Arete f7A ** 32
333 Buzz Saw f7A+ 9
334 Sorcerer's Slab
-
f3 67
335 Magic Wand
-
f3+ 36
336 Slant
-
f3 40
337 Shothole SS f6A+ 11
338 Steak At Lunch * V3 6a+  
339 The Groove f4+ 9
340 Nemesis Left
-
f4+ 5
341 Nemesis f5 * 111
342 Nemesis SS f6B ** 22
343 Nemesis SS Right
-
f6B+ 6
344 Narcosis f5 * 50
345 Narcosis SS f6A * 21
346 Lunik f4+ * 58
347 Lunik SS f6A+ 11
348 Rosie and Jim f5+ * 18
349 Cheddar Direct f4+ *** 193
350 Cheddar Direct SS f6A 22
351 Hard Cheddar Direct f6A+ * 13
352 Hard Cheddar
-
f5+ *** 256
353 Hard Cheddar SS f6A 66
354 Big Cheese
-
f7C+ ** 3
355 Le Rustique f7A ** 9
356 Cheese-bored f7A * 6
357 The Jugs Don't Work f6B+ ** 17
358 Juggie
-
f4 *** 85
359 The Ramp (Juggie Right)
-
f5 14
360 Jugs are for Mugs f6B * 6
361 Phoenix f7A 10
362 Consolidated f7B+ *** 52
363 Consolidated Extension f7C *** 27
364 Babybel f6C+ * 6
365 'Consoled' f7A+ 3
366 Solid f6C 5
367 ...Dated f7A+ 3
  Sea Boulder
369 The Crack f3 23
370 Short Wall f4+ 22
371 White Streak f6B ** 102
372 Steptoe f3+ * 176
373 Red Streak
-
f6A 103
374 Chowbok
-
f3+ ** 201
375 Erewhon f4+ 199
376 Tuesday Treat/Commercialism f6A 28
377 Commercial Route
-
f4 ** 169
378 Wednesday Wall f4 99
379 Silver's Route
-
f3+ * 157
380 Silver's Route SS f6C+ ** 13
381 Silver Rib f3+ 14
382 Silver Arete f6B 6
383 Gardner's Girdle f4 *** 76
  Triplets
385 Short Sight
-
f3+ 19
386 Honesty f7A 11
387 Reducer Arete Left
-
f5+ 11
388 Reducer Arete
-
f6A 22
389 Reducer
-
f7B 6
390 Long Reach
-
f5+ 16
391 Short Notice
-
f4+ 16
392 Ivy Rib f5+ 5
393 Ivy Traverse f5 6
  Black Wall
395 The Niche Left f5+ 9
396 The Niche
-
f6A 9
397 Black Wall Crack f5+ 27
398 Black Wall Circuit f6A * 24
399 Easy Crack f3+ 11
400 Mick T f4+ 9
401 Mick T SS f6A 8
  Everdry Wall
403 Longbow
-
E1 5b ** 105
404 Longbow SS
-
f5+ 12
405 The Slopers f7A 3
406 Old Man's Corner f6A 9
407 The Match f6B 4
408 This Place is Shit f6A 16
409 Liddell, Ha and Crombie f6A+ 3
410 Shattered Traverse High f6C 102
411 Shattered Traverse Low f7B ** 21
  Circuits
413 JLS training circuit f6A 6a 67
414 Stone Country Yellow Circuit f5+ ** 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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