Climbs 401
Rocktype Basalt
Altitude 6m a.s.l
Faces NW

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Struggling with a Bad Attitude at Dumby. © Fraser

Crag features

The classic crag of the Scottish lowlands. A gateway to Scotland's hardest climbing, the crag features famous routes such as Chemin de Fer (E5), Achemine (E9), Requiem (E8), and Rhapsody (E11). Several large boulders provide over 300 boulder problems, including Scotland's first Font 8a problem - Pongo Sit Start.

Approach notes

From the car park a good path leads to the North Face and the Boulders.

Access Advice

Dumbarton Rock is a historic monument so do NOT climb into the castle grounds.

New resin bolts installed now installed "Bad Attitude" as well as "Half Breed" & "Unforgiven". The old rusty bolts will be chopped in due course.
JLS - 06/Oct/13
New resin bolts installed on Unforgiven and Halfbreed today. Treat with caution pending testing. Further bolt renewal on Halfbreed and Bad Attitude, as well as removal of the old bolts to follow.
JLS - 14/Sep/13
Online guide to Dumby with topos, gallery and videos can be found at: www.dumby.info
Jonathan Bean - 10/Jul/13
Dave Macleod's guide which was on scotlandonline (see above) has been moved to http://www.scottishoutdoors.co.uk/outdoors/dumbarton/intro.htm
gforce - 12/Jun/08
Bouldering with the giant imposing lines of Chemin de Fer (E5) and Requiem (E7) towering above is an experience not to be missed. You may find yourself spending a lot of time just gazing upwards at this sheer overhanging face. Longbow (E1) and Windjammer (HVS), just to the right, are great exercises in forced bridging, laybacking and jamming. Together with the graffiti, local kids, and River Clyde, Dumby is proper Glasgow hard stuff.
Paul Hutton - 31/Jul/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  North Face
2 Angel's Pavement f5  
3 Angel's Pavement Low f6A  
4 Beta
-
E1 5b 3
5 Antigrav E3 6a *  
6 Monsoon Gully
-
S 4b * 5
7 Nameless Crack
-
VD 1
  Gully Wall
9 Snowhite
-
E2 5b ** 8
  North-West Face
11 Stonefall Wall E4 6a  
12 Eliminator E6 6b *  
13 Route Three
-
HVS 5a * 14
14 Stonefall Crack
-
HVS 5a ** 94
15 Stonefall Crack Direct
-
HVS 5a 40
16 Payback Time! 7b+  
17 The Big Zipper
-
E3 5b ** 36
18 Woops E4 6a ** 5
19 Omerta 7c *** 22
20 Chemin de Fer E5 6a *** 34
21 Achemine E9 6c ***  
22 Cop Out
-
5.13c r **  
23 Rhapsody E11 7a 1
24 Direquiem
-
5.14a r **  
25 Unfinished Symphony 8b+ ** 1
26 Requiem E8 6c *** 3
27 Requiem Direct Start E3 5b 1
28 Dumbarton Oaks (AKA La Dumby-Dumby Project) Project *** 1
29 Rock of Ages
-
E3 6a * 4
30 Persistence of Vision 7a+ *** 223
31 Eurovision 7a ** 26
32 Dumb and Dumber E7 6c **  
33 First Movement 6b+ ** 83
34 Abstract Movement 6b+ * 6
35 Abstract Art 6c+ * 160
36 Cyclops
-
E5 6b * 1
37 Calm Before the Storm E6 6c *  
38 Dum Dum Boys 7c+ *** 7
39 Sufferance 8a *** 53
40 Endurance 8a ** 8
41 Suffix 8a * 7
42 Persistance 8a * 2
43 Tarrier 7c+ ** 12
44 Tolerance 8a+ ** 2
45 Fever Pitch E4 5c ** 7
46 Fatso E4 5c *  
47 Negative Creep 8b * 1
48 Appliance of Violence 7b+ * 96
49 Gratuitous Violence 8a ** 1
50 Eh Gringo E4 5c *  
51 Desperado HVS 5a * 20
52 Blackout E6 6a ** 1
53 Windjammer
-
HVS 5a ** 131
54 Out on the Rigging HVS 5a 2
55 Bad Attitude 7b 50
56 Half Breed 7b *** 85
57 Unforgiven 7b *** 133
58 Friends in High Places E4 6a ** 2
59 Benny's Route Left-hand 7b * 19
60 Benny's Route Right-hand 7c * 45
61 Natural Born Drillers 7a * 92
  West Face
63 Dumbarton Chimney VS 4c 2
64 Easter Rib
-
S *** 19
65 Casanostra 6c+ * 10
66 Plunge
-
D *** 40
67 Sea Traverse/West Face Girdle f5+ 35
  Eagle Boulder
69 1920 Traverse VB 4a 26
70 Rankin's Bajin
-
VB 4a 88
71 Soixante Neuf
-
f3+ * 103
72 Pas Mal
-
f3 * 82
73 No.1 Route
-
f3+ * 113
74 Left Direct
-
f3 ** 106
75 Centre Direct
-
f4 * 108
76 Right Direct f3 53
77 No. 2 Route
-
VB 3a * 70
78 No. 2 Route SS f6B 11
79 No.2 Route Direct f4+ 59
80 Pullover
-
f5 * 152
81 Condor V5 * 1
82 Runs on Potato Power f7A * 15
83 Triple Bogey f6C 4
84 Double Bogey f6B * 14
85 Kev's Problem f7A * 22
86 John's Dyno f6B+ ** 11
87 Ramp Traverse f6C * 11
88 The Beastie f6A * 8
89 Bust My Chops LH f7A *** 37
90 Bust My Chops f7A ** 38
91 Bust My Chops RH f7A * 44
92 Bust Jeremy's Chops f7A ** 13
93 Treasure f7B * 13
94 Treasure Hunt f7B * 14
95 Fool's Gold f7A+ * 12
96 Old Faithful f5 * 12
97 Zig Zag f4 *** 157
98 Zig Zag SS f6C * 69
99 Zig Sit Start Super Low f6C+ ** 15
100 Zig Zag Variation f6A 15
101 Pullover Traverse f5+ 19
102 Jeremy's Problem f6C+ ** 18
103 Double Slopers f6A 29
104 Treasure Trail f7B+ ** 3
105 The Bampot Chop f6C+ * 7
106 Total Bamchop f7A 1
107 Total Bampot f7A ** 4
108 Bampot Arete f6B+ * 38
109 Bampot Traverse f7A ** 30
110 Fouk Yee f7B * 3
111 Fouk Yer Chops Kev f7C 3
112 Tam's Route Sit Start f6A+ 8
113 Tam's Route f5+ 26
114 Tam's Route Original SS f7A 3
115 Shadow
-
f7A+ ** 2
116 The Story of the Hurricane f7A ** 1
117 Trick of the Vale f7B ** 2
118 High Flyer
-
f6C 8
119 Pressure
-
f8B 1
120 Firefight
-
f8B 1
121 Smokescreen f7C * 6
122 Firestarter
-
f8A *** 4
123 Gorilla
-
f6B *** 149
124 Gorilla Warfare
-
f7A+ ** 22
125 Gorilla Warfare Hanging Start f7A+ ** 1
126 Gorilla Hanging Start f7A 34
127 Hung Like a Gorilla f7B **  
128 Neil's Extension/Gorilla SS
-
f7B+ *** 26
129 Silver Back
-
f7C *** 21
130 Silverback Arete f7C+ *** 3
131 Silverware V9 ** 3
132 King Kong f8A 9
133 Cautious Lip f6B * 28
134 Mother Glasgow's Starlings f7B+ ***  
135 Shin Sekai
-
f6C+ * 15
136 Nature f8A 1
137 Hoop f7C *** 6
138 Ladderman f7C ** 2
139 Bingham's Wall
-
f7B+ ** 1
Climb name Grade
140 Dressed for Success
-
f7B+ ** 5
141 Dressed into Ford
-
f7C+  
142 Dressed Reversed
-
f7B+  
143 Supinator
-
f6A+ * 31
144 Supinator XL f6B+ 1
145 The Legacy f6B+ 1
146 2HB
-
f6A *** 78
147 2HB SS f6B 6
148 A Ford Flash
-
f7A 1
149 Ford Capri f7A  
150 Torino Sun f6B ** 28
151 Oceans
-
f7C 5
152 Sea Bed f8A *** 2
153 1990 Traverse f7B * 36
154 2016 Traverse f7B+ *  
155 Snappy f6B+ ** 13
156 Yappy f6B+ ** 13
157 The Blue Meanie f5 *** 177
158 Green Meanie f5 5
159 PTO
-
f5 * 159
160 PTO Right Hand f4+ 8
  Warm-up Wall
162 Left Edge
-
f3 * 275
163 Tuesday Wall f3+ 53
164 Fridays Fill f3 * 364
165 Friar's Mantle f4+ *** 445
166 Thursday Wall f5 64
167 Ungava f4+ 318
168 Warm Up Wall Dyno Eliminate f6A 5
169 Right Edge f3+ 239
170 Warmup Wall Low Traverse f5 187
  Home Rule
172 The Switch f5 4
173 Einherjar f6B+ * 2
174 Skin Deep f6B+ * 4
175 Valhalla f4 11
176 The Beauty f4 10
177 Orange Wall f6A 7
178 The Beast f3 59
179 The Brute f4 14
180 The Brute SS f5+ 6
181 Valkyrie f4+ 8
182 Encore Une Fois f6C+ * 7
183 Pas Encore f5 * 15
184 Crimp! f6B+ 10
185 More Chicken
-
f7A+ * 2
186 Head Butt f7A 19
187 More Malkstizo f7A ** 3
188 Chicken Butt f7A+ ** 1
189 Butt Head f7A+ 2
190 Malky Traverse f7B+ ** 17
191 Dagger f7B+ ** 9
192 Malky's Chicken f7B+ 5
193 Malkied f7C *** 12
194 Malky f7B+ * 52
195 Malky Sit Start f7C 3
196 Malky Schmalky f7C ** 10
197 Dweller f7B+ 2
198 Dweller (Mugsy jug finish) f7A 6
199 Set in Motion f7C+  
200 Hokku f8A * 1
201 Sosho f8A+ **  
202 Spam f7C * 19
203 Spamsly f7C+ 1
204 Glasgow Kiss f7C+ *** 9
205 Spam Dagger f8A * 9
206 Mugsy Extension f7B+ ** 14
207 Mugsy Traverse f7B *** 61
208 Mugsy Sit Start f7B ** 22
209 Mugsy Static f7A+ *** 56
210 Mugsly f7B+ 5
211 Mugslife f7C 1
212 Mugsy (Ya Bass)
-
f7A *** 98
213 Houston We Have a Problem f7B  
214 Mestugso f7B ** 13
215 Malky's Sleazy Chicken f8A *** 3
216 Thoroughbred f7C+ 12
217 Nice and Sleazy f7C+ *** 19
218 Mugstizo f7B+ *** 12
219 Mugstizo High f7B ** 4
220 Mestizo Extension f7B+ ** 14
221 Mestizo Traverse f7B ** 62
222 Mestizo SS f7A+ ** 84
223 Mestizo f6A *** 157
224 Mestizo 'Direct'
-
f7A 3
225 Art Attack f7B 5
226 Power Relation f7B 2
227 Knowledge is Power f7B+ *** 4
228 Physical Graffiti f6B ** 72
229 Nice and Sleazier f7C+ ** 4
230 Eazy Sleazy f7C+ ** 2
231 Home Rule
-
f6A ** 177
232 Devolution f6C ** 18
233 Devo Max f6C * 7
234 Spray On f7B * 2
235 Home Rule Low Traverse f7A+ * 32
236 Home Rule High Traverse f6B ** 44
237 Bob's Problem
-
f6A 10
238 Presence f5+ * 29
239 Royale Beauty f6B * 1
240 Route Royale E3 5c 19
241 Chicken Royale f6C 2
242 Royal Arete f6B 2
243 The Whip E2 5b ** 38
244 The Whip SS f6C * 30
245 The Whip SS Direct f6A+ * 5
  Suckers Boulder
247 Cave Route f6A 5
248 Cave Route RH f6A+ 11
249 P.S. f3 20
250 Unnamed Toto Gallagher Eliminate f6B * 10
251 Unnamed Toto Watson Eliminate f6B 1
252 Toto f6A *** 265
253 Toto Right Hand f6C+ ** 18
254 Toto SS f7A 91
255 Toto Traverse f7A+ 6
256 Toto Sit Start Direct f7A+ * 21
257 Totality f7B+ 18
258 Totalled f7B ** 8
259 The Shield f7B+ *** 30
260 The Shield SS f7C ** 6
261 The Shield Right Hand
-
f7A+ * 11
262 The Shield Right Hand SS f7B * 3
263 Redpath's Problem f7B  
264 Power Pockets
-
f6C * 27
265 Power Pockets SS
-
f7C *  
266 Off The Rails f7A+ ** 1
267 The Railings f6B+ ** 155
268 Railings Extension f6B+ ** 1
269 Snooker Shelf
-
f4 43
270 Kneebar
-
f6A+ * 15
271 Mosca f3+ 16
272 Antimatter f4 3
273 Suckers Slab f4+ 14
274 Volpone f3 * 49
275 Smear Test f3 7
  B.N.I Boulder
277 Chahala Easy SS
-
f6A 6
278 Chahala f5+ ** 103
Climb name Grade
279 Chahala SS f8B 1
280 Perfect Crime f8A+ ***  
281 Perfect Crime Extension f8B  
282 The Serum of Sisyphus f8A+ *** 1
283 The Grand Tour f8B  
284 Sanction f8B *** 2
285 Gutbuster f8B+ ***  
286 B.N.I. Direct Start f7B+ *** 15
287 Le Tour De Technique f7B+ ** 10
288 La Saboteur f8A+ *** 4
289 Sabotaged f8A *** 2
290 Sabotage f8A *** 27
291 The Elbow Basher
-
f7B+ 6
292 Very Ape
-
f6C 1
293 Good Nicks
-
f6B ** 54
294 Good Nicks SS
-
f6C ** 17
295 You're Nicked f7B 2
296 HP f6B+ 4
297 Pendulum
-
f4 *** 34
298 Revelation f6A+ 1
299 Nadjilation f6C+ *  
300 Sugar Rush
-
f7B  
301 Harvester of Eyes
-
f3 23
302 Astronomy VB 36
303 Gratis Rib f3+ 4
304 Deo Gratis f4+ * 25
305 Imposter Arete f3+ *** 77
306 B.N.I. Direct f5+ 8
307 B.N.I.
-
f5 *** 16
  Pongo Boulder
309 Skint Cave Traverse f6B+ 10
310 Skint Knuckles
-
f4 * 73
311 Skint Sitter
-
f6C+ 6
312 Slap Happy SS f7A 10
313 Slap Happy f7A ** 192
314 Hap Slappy f7B+ 52
315 Slap Happy Dyno f7C *** 6
316 Happy Slap f7C+ * 9
317 Paedo Bikini f7C * 3
318 In Bloom f7C+ *** 15
319 In Bloom Arete f8A ** 1
320 Mr Tickle Extension f8A+ ** 1
321 Mr Tickle f8A ** 1
322 Pongo f7A *** 78
323 Pongo True SS f8A *** 15
324 Pongo Jump f7B 5
325 Pongo Static f7B+ 9
326 Pongo Knuckle f7C 4
327 Supersize Me f8B 1
328 Rock Around the Bloc (Low) f6C * 5
329 Rock Around the Bloc (High) f6B * 6
330 Pongo Arete f7A+ ** 56
331 Embrace The Rock V7 **  
332 Amalgamated f7C  
333 The Dumbartoner f7B+ **  
334 Andy's Arete f7A ** 32
335 Buzz Saw f7A+ 9
336 Sorcerer's Slab
-
f3 68
337 Magic Wand
-
f3+ 39
338 Slant
-
f3 41
339 Shothole SS f6A+ 12
340 Steak At Lunch f6A  
341 The Groove f4+ 10
342 Nemesis Left
-
f4+ 6
343 Nemesis f5 * 113
344 Nemesis SS f6B ** 23
345 Nemesis SS Right
-
f6B+ 7
346 Narcosis f5 * 54
347 Narcosis SS f6A * 23
348 Lunik f4+ * 60
349 Lunik SS f6A+ 13
350 Rosie and Jim f5+ * 20
351 Cheddar Direct f4+ *** 199
352 Cheddar Direct SS f6A 23
353 Hard Cheddar Direct f6A+ * 15
354 Hard Cheddar
-
f5+ *** 257
355 Hard Cheddar SS f6A 67
356 Big Cheese
-
f7C+ ** 3
357 Le Rustique f6C+ ** 10
358 Cheese-bored f6C+ * 7
359 The Jugs Don't Work f6B+ ** 17
360 Juggie
-
f4 *** 92
361 The Ramp (Juggie Right)
-
f5 15
362 Jugs are for Mugs f6B * 7
363 Phoenix f7A 12
364 Consolidated f7B+ *** 53
365 Consolidated Extension f7C *** 28
366 Babybel f6C * 7
367 'Consoled' f7A+ 3
368 Solid f6C 6
369 ...Dated f7A+ 3
  Sea Boulder
371 Short Wall f4 23
372 The Crack f3 23
373 White Streak f6B ** 103
374 Steptoe f3+ * 181
375 Red Streak
-
f6A 105
376 Chowbok
-
f3+ ** 207
377 Erewhon f4+ 201
378 Tuesday Treat/Commercialism f6A 28
379 Commercial Route
-
f4 ** 172
380 Wednesday Wall f4 100
381 Silver's Route
-
f3+ * 158
382 Silver's Route SS f6C+ ** 13
383 Silver Rib f3+ 14
384 Silver Arete f6B 6
385 Gardner's Girdle f4 *** 76
  Triplets
387 Short Sight
-
f3+ 20
388 Honesty f7A 12
389 Reducer Arete Left
-
f5+ 12
390 Reducer Arete
-
f6A 24
391 Reducer
-
f7B 7
392 Long Reach
-
f5+ 18
393 Short Notice
-
f4+ 17
394 Ivy Rib f5+ 7
395 Ivy Traverse f5 7
  Black Wall
397 The Niche Left f5+ 9
398 The Niche
-
f6A 9
399 Black Wall Crack f5+ 28
400 Black Wall Circuit f6A * 26
401 Easy Crack f3+ 12
402 Mick T f4+ 10
403 Mick T SS f6A 8
  Everdry Wall
405 Longbow
-
E1 5b ** 107
406 Longbow SS
-
f5+ 12
407 The Slopers f6C+ 3
408 Old Man's Corner f6A 9
409 The Match f6B 4
410 This Place is Shit f6A 17
411 Liddell, Ha and Crombie f6A+ 3
412 Shattered Traverse High f6C 104
413 Shattered Traverse Low f7B ** 23
  Circuits
415 JLS training circuit f6A 6a 67
416 Stone Country Yellow Circuit f5+ ** 1

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