UKC

Climbs 379
Rocktype Basalt

Faces NW

A very warm evening send of Physical Graffiti at Dumbarton Rock. © Jonathan Bean

Crag features

Glasgows best crag will test the strongest climbers with Chemin de Fer (E5) and Requiem (E8 6b) rated as Scotlands finest crack routes. Seven big boulders provide an excellent training ground. Scotland's first E9, Achemine, is here as well as Scotland's first Font 8a problem - Pongo (true sit start). [Stuart McNeil, Graham Foster]

Approach notes

From the car park a good path leads to the North Face and the Boulders.

Access Advice

Dumbarton Rock is a historic monument so do NOT climb into the castle grounds.

New resin bolts installed now installed "Bad Attitude" as well as "Half Breed" & "Unforgiven". The old rusty bolts will be chopped in due course.
JLS - 06/Oct/13
New resin bolts installed on Unforgiven and Halfbreed today. Treat with caution pending testing. Further bolt renewal on Halfbreed and Bad Attitude, as well as removal of the old bolts to follow.
JLS - 14/Sep/13
Online guide to Dumby with topos, gallery and videos can be found at: www.dumby.info
Jonathan Bean - 10/Jul/13
Dave Macleod's guide which was on scotlandonline (see above) has been moved to http://www.scottishoutdoors.co.uk/outdoors/dumbarton/intro.htm
gforce - 12/Jun/08
Bouldering with the giant imposing lines of Chemin de Fer (E5) and Requiem (E7) towering above is an experience not to be missed. You may find yourself spending a lot of time just gazing upwards at this sheer overhanging face. Longbow (E1) and Windjammer (HVS), just to the right, are great exercises in forced bridging, laybacking and jamming. Together with the graffiti, local kids, and River Clyde, Dumby is proper Glasgow hard stuff.
Paul Hutton - 31/Jul/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  North Face
2 Angel's Pavement f5  
3 Angel's Pavement Low f6A  
4 Beta
-
E1 5b 3
5 Antigrav E3 6a *  
6 Monsoon Gully
-
S 4b * 5
7 Nameless Crack
-
VD 1
  Gully Wall
9 Snowhite
-
E2 5b ** 8
  North-West Face
11 Route Three
-
HVS 5a * 10
12 Stonefall Crack
-
HVS 5a ** 72
13 Stonefall Crack Direct
-
HVS 5a 32
14 Payback Time! 7b+  
15 The Big Zipper
-
E3 5b ** 32
16 Woops E4 6a ** 5
17 Omerta 7c ** 22
18 Chemin de Fer E5 6a *** 22
19 Achemine E9 6c ***  
20 Cop Out
-
5.13c r **  
21 Rhapsody E11 7a 1
22 Direquiem
-
5.14a r **  
23 Unfinished Symphony 8b+ ** 1
24 Requiem
-
E8 6b *** 2
25 Requiem Direct Start E3 5b  
26 Dumbarton Oaks (AKA La Dumby-Dumby Project) Project *** 1
27 Rock of Ages
-
E3 6a * 4
28 Persistence of Vision 7a+ *** 182
29 Dumb and Dumber E7 6c **  
30 First Movement 6b+ ** 61
31 Abstract Movement 6b+ * 5
32 Abstract Art 6c ** 141
33 Cyclops
-
E5 6b * 1
34 Calm Before the Storm E6 6c *  
35 Dum Dum Boys
-
7c+ *** 7
36 Sufferance 8a *** 41
37 Endurance 8a ** 7
38 Suffix 8a ** 7
39 Persistance 8a * 2
40 Tarrier
-
8a ** 11
41 Tolerance 8b ** 2
42 Fever Pitch E4 5c ** 6
43 Fatso E4 5c *  
44 Negative Creep 8b 1
45 Appliance of Violence
-
7b+ ** 84
46 Gratuitous Violence 8a ** 1
47 Eh Gringo E4 5c *  
48 Desperado HVS 5a * 16
49 Blackout E6 6a ** 1
50 Windjammer
-
HVS 5a ** 115
51 Out on the Rigging HVS 5a 1
52 Bad Attitude
-
7b ** 42
53 Half Breed
-
7b ** 67
54 Unforgiven
-
7b *** 98
55 Friends in High Places E4 6a ** 2
56 Benny's Route Left-hand
-
7b 16
57 Benny's Route Right-hand
-
7c * 38
58 Natural Born Drillers 7a 84
  West Face
60 Dumbarton Chimney VS 4c 2
61 Easter Rib
-
S *** 16
62 Casanostra 6c+ * 10
63 Plunge
-
D *** 36
64 Sea Traverse/West Face Girdle f5+ 32
  Eagle Boulder
66 1920 Traverse VB 4a 23
67 Rankin's Bajin
-
VB 4a 78
68 Soixante Neuf
-
f3+ * 92
69 Pas Mal
-
f3 * 73
70 No.1 Route
-
f3+ * 103
71 Left Direct
-
f3 ** 91
72 Centre Direct
-
f4 * 95
73 Right Direct f3 49
74 No. 2 Route
-
VB 3a * 57
75 No. 2 Route SS f6B 11
76 Pullover
-
f5 * 143
77 No.2 Route Direct f4+ 50
78 Runs on Potato Power f7A * 13
79 Triple Bogey f6C 4
80 Double Bogey f6B * 14
81 Kev's Problem f7A * 20
82 John's Dyno f6B+ ** 11
83 Ramp Traverse f6C * 11
84 The Beastie f6A * 7
85 Bust My Chops LH f7A *** 27
86 Bust My Chops f7A ** 31
87 Bust My Chops RH f7A * 37
88 Bust Jeremy's Chops f7A ** 11
89 Treasure f7B * 12
90 Treasure Hunt f7B * 12
91 Fool's Gold f7A+ * 11
92 Old Faithful f5 * 8
93 Zig Zag f4 *** 140
94 Zig Zag SS f6C * 59
95 Zig Sit Start Super Low f6C+ ** 13
96 Zig Zag Variation f6A 15
97 Pullover Traverse f5+ 16
98 Jeremy's Problem f6C+ ** 18
99 Double Slopers f6A 25
100 Treasure Trail f7B+ ** 3
101 The Bampot Chop f6C+ * 6
102 Total Bampot f7A ** 4
103 Bampot Arete f6B+ * 37
104 Bampot Traverse f7A ** 26
105 Fouk Yee f7B * 2
106 Fouk Yer Chops Kev f7C 3
107 Tam's Route Sit Start f6A+ 7
108 Tam's Route f5+ 21
109 Tam's Route Original SS f7A 3
110 Shadow
-
f7A+ ** 2
111 The Story of the Hurricane f7A ** 1
112 Trick of the Vale f7B ** 2
113 High Flyer
-
f6C 7
114 Pressure
-
f8B  
115 Firefight
-
f8B  
116 Smokescreen f7C * 5
117 Firestarter
-
f8A *** 4
118 Gorilla
-
f6B *** 144
119 Gorilla Warfare
-
f7A+ ** 21
120 Gorilla Hanging Start
-
f7A 31
121 Neil's Extension/Gorilla SS
-
f7B+ *** 22
122 Silver Back
-
f7C *** 18
123 Silverback Arete f7C+ *** 3
124 Silverware V9 ** 1
125 King Kong f8A 9
126 Cautious Lip f6B * 27
127 Mother Glasgow's Starlings f7B+ ***  
128 Shin Sekai
-
f6C+ * 15
129 Hoop f7C *** 5
130 Ladderman f7C ** 1
131 Bingham's Wall
-
f7B+ ** 1
132 Dressed for Success
-
f7B+ ** 5
Climb name Grade
133 Dressed into Ford
-
f7C+  
134 Dressed Reversed
-
f7B+  
135 Supinator
-
f6A+ * 26
136 Supinator XL f6B+ 1
137 The Legacy f6B+ 1
138 2HB
-
f6A *** 74
139 2HB SS f6B 5
140 A Ford Flash
-
f7B 1
141 Ford Capri f7A+  
142 Torino Sun f6B ** 27
143 Oceans
-
f7C 5
144 Sea Bed f8A *** 2
145 1990 Traverse f7B * 33
146 2016 Traverse f7B+ *  
147 Snappy f6B+ ** 13
148 Yappy f6B+ ** 13
149 The Blue Meanie f5 *** 158
150 PTO
-
f5 * 142
  Warm-up Wall
152 Left Edge
-
f3 * 237
153 Tuesday Wall f3+ 38
154 Fridays Fill f3 * 316
155 Friar's Mantle f4+ *** 380
156 Thursday Wall f5 51
157 Ungava f4+ 279
158 Right Edge f3+ 212
159 Warmup Wall Low Traverse f5 163
  Home Rule
161 Orange Wall f6A 6
162 The Beast f3 52
163 The Brute f4 13
164 The Brute SS f5+ 4
165 Valkyrie f4+ 5
166 Encore Une Fois f7A * 7
167 Pas Encore f5 * 13
168 Crimp! f6B+ 9
169 More Chicken
-
f7A+ * 1
170 Head Butt f7A 18
171 More Malkstizo f7A ** 2
172 Chicken Butt f7A+ ** 1
173 Butt Head f7A+ 2
174 Malky Traverse f7B+ ** 15
175 Dagger f7B+ ** 6
176 Malky's Chicken f7B+ 4
177 Malkied f7C *** 11
178 Malky f7B+ * 47
179 Malky Schmalky f7C ** 7
180 Dweller f7B+  
181 Dweller (Mugsy jug finish) f7A 1
182 Set in Motion f7C+  
183 Hokku f8A * 1
184 Sosho f8A+ **  
185 Spam f7C * 15
186 Glasgow Kiss f7C+ *** 6
187 Spam Dagger f8A * 7
188 Mugsy Extension f7B+ ** 11
189 Mugsy Traverse f7B *** 56
190 Mugsy Sit Start f7B ** 19
191 Mugsy Static f7A+ *** 38
192 Mugsly f7B+  
193 Mugslife f7C  
194 Mugsy (Ya Bass)
-
f7A *** 86
195 Houston We Have a Problem f7B  
196 Mestugso f7B ** 11
197 Malky's Sleazy Chicken f8A *** 2
198 Thoroughbred f7C+ 10
199 Nice and Sleazy f7C+ *** 16
200 Mugstizo f7B+ *** 11
201 Mestizo Extension f7B+ ** 12
202 Mestizo Traverse f7B ** 56
203 Mestizo SS f7A+ ** 71
204 Mestizo f6A *** 129
205 Mestizo 'Direct'
-
f7A 3
206 Art Attack f7B 5
207 Knowledge is Power f7B+ *** 3
208 Physical Graffiti f6B ** 71
209 Nice and Sleazier f7C+ ** 4
210 Eazy Sleazy f7C+ ** 2
211 Home Rule
-
f6A ** 161
212 Devolution f6C ** 18
213 Devo Max f6C * 7
214 Spray On f7B *  
215 Home Rule Low Traverse f7A+ * 29
216 Home Rule High Traverse f6B ** 42
217 Bob's Problem
-
f6A 10
218 Presence f5+ * 27
219 Royale Beauty f6B * 1
220 Route Royale E3 5c 18
221 Chicken Royale f6C 1
222 Royal Arete f6B 1
223 The Whip E2 5b ** 35
224 The Whip SS f6C * 30
225 The Whip SS Direct f6A+ * 5
226 The Switch f5 4
227 Einherjar f6B+ * 2
228 Skin Deep f6B+ * 3
229 Valhalla f4 10
230 The Beauty
-
f4 9
  Suckers Boulder
232 P.S.
-
f3 5a 16
233 Cave Route f6A 4
234 Cave Route RH f6A+ 10
235 Unnamed Toto Gallagher Eliminate f7A 8
236 Toto f6A *** 247
237 Toto SS f7A 82
238 Toto Right Hand f6C ** 18
239 Totalled f7B ** 4
240 Totality f7B+ 14
241 Totality Direct Finish f7A+ * 21
242 Toto Traverse f7A+ 6
243 The Shield f7B+ *** 26
244 The Shield SS f7C ** 6
245 The Shield Right Hand
-
f7A+ * 8
246 The Shield Right Hand SS f7B * 1
247 Redpath's Problem f7B  
248 Power Pockets
-
f6C * 22
249 Power Pockets SS
-
f7C *  
250 Off The Rails f7A+ ** 1
251 Railing
-
f6B+ ** 145
252 Railings Extension f6B+ **  
253 Snooker Shelf
-
f4 37
254 Kneebar
-
f6A+ * 13
255 Mosca
-
f3+ 14
256 Antimatter f4 3
257 Suckers Slab
-
f4+ 14
258 Volpone
-
f3 * 44
259 Smear Test f3 5
  B.N.I Boulder
261 Chahala Easy SS
-
f6A 4
262 Chahala f5+ ** 87
263 Chahala SS
-
f8A+ 1
264 Perfect Crime f8A+ ***  
Climb name Grade
265 Perfect Crime Extension f8B  
266 The Serum of Sisyphus f8A+ *** 1
267 The Grand Tour f8B  
268 Sanction f8B *** 1
269 Gut Buster f8B+ ***  
270 B.N.I. Direct Start f7B+ *** 15
271 Le Tour De Technique f7B+ ** 9
272 La Saboteur f8A+ *** 4
273 Sabotaged f8A *** 2
274 Sabotage f8A *** 21
275 The Elbow Basher
-
f7B+ 5
276 Very Ape
-
f6C 1
277 Good Nicks
-
f6B ** 51
278 Good Nicks SS
-
f6C ** 17
279 You're Nicked f7B 2
280 HP f6B+ 4
281 Pendulum
-
f4 *** 31
282 Revelation E4 6a  
283 Nadjilation E6 6b **  
284 Sugar Rush
-
f7B  
285 Harvester of Eyes
-
f3 19
286 Astronomy
-
VB 3a 27
287 Gratis Rib f3+ 2
288 Deo Gratis
-
f4+ * 21
289 Imposter Arete f3+ *** 65
290 B.N.I. Direct f5+ 8
291 B.N.I.
-
f5 *** 14
  Pongo Boulder
293 Skint Cave Traverse f6B+ 8
294 Skint Knuckles
-
f4 * 67
295 Skint Sitter
-
f6C+ 6
296 Slap Happy SS f7A 9
297 Slap Happy f7A ** 157
298 Hap Slappy f7B+ 42
299 Slap Happy Dyno f7C *** 3
300 Happy Slap f7C+ * 8
301 Paedo Bikini f7C * 1
302 In Bloom f7C+ *** 16
303 In Bloom Arete f8A ** 1
304 Mr Tickle Extension f8A+ ** 1
305 Mr Tickle f8A ** 1
306 Pongo f6C+ *** 70
307 Pongo True SS f8A *** 13
308 Pongo Jump f7B 4
309 Pongo Static f7B+ 5
310 Pongo Knuckle f7C 4
311 Supersize Me f8B  
312 Rock Around the Bloc (Low) f6C * 5
313 Rock Around the Bloc (High) f6B * 5
314 Pongo Arete f7A+ ** 53
315 The Dumbartoner f7B+ **  
316 Andy's Arete f7A ** 30
317 Buzz Saw f7A+ 9
318 Sorcerer's Slab
-
f3 60
319 Magic Wand
-
f3+ 34
320 Slant
-
f3 39
321 Shothole SS f6A+ 10
322 The Groove f4+ 6
323 Nemesis Left
-
f4+ 4
324 Nemesis f5 * 101
325 Nemesis SS f6B ** 21
326 Nemesis SS Right
-
f6B+ 6
327 Narcosis f5 * 47
328 Narcosis SS f6A * 20
329 Lunik f4+ * 54
330 Lunik SS f6A+ 10
331 Rosie and Jim f5+ * 16
332 Cheddar Direct
-
f4+ *** 176
333 Cheddar Direct SS f6A 16
334 Hard Cheddar Direct f6A+ * 9
335 Hard Cheddar
-
f5+ *** 229
336 Hard Cheddar SS f6A 59
337 Big Cheese
-
f7C+ ** 3
338 Le Rustique f7A ** 6
339 Cheese-bored f7A * 5
340 The Jugs Don't Work f6B+ ** 16
341 Juggie
-
f4 *** 77
342 The Ramp (Juggie Right)
-
f5 11
343 Jugs are for Mugs f6B * 4
344 Phoenix f7A 8
345 Consolidated f7B+ *** 58
346 Consolidated Extension f7C *** 24
347 Babybel f6C+ * 6
  Sea Boulder
349 The Crack f3 15
350 Short Wall f4+ 13
351 White Streak f6B ** 93
352 Steptoe f3+ * 159
353 Red Streak
-
f6A 100
354 Chowbok
-
f3+ ** 181
355 Erewhon f4+ 182
356 Tuesday Treat/Commercialism f6A 24
357 Commercial Route
-
f4 ** 157
358 Wednesday Wall
-
f4 92
359 Silver's Route
-
f3+ * 146
360 Silver's Route SS f6C+ ** 10
361 Silver Rib f3+ 9
362 Silver Arete f6B 4
363 Gardner's Girdle f4 *** 71
  Triplets
365 Short Sight
-
f3+ 17
366 Honesty f7A 11
367 Reducer Arete Left
-
f5+ 9
368 Reducer Arete
-
f6A 18
369 Reducer
-
f7B 5
370 Long Reach
-
f5+ 14
371 Short Notice
-
f4+ 14
372 Ivy Rib f5+ 4
373 Ivy Traverse f5 4
  Black Wall
375 The Niche Left f5+ 7
376 The Niche
-
f6A 7
377 Black Wall Crack f5+ 23
378 Black Wall Circuit f6A * 18
379 Easy Crack f3+ 9
380 Mick T f4+ 9
381 Mick T SS f6A 8
  Everdry Wall
383 Longbow
-
E1 5b ** 95
384 Longbow SS
-
f5+ 8
385 The Slopers f7A 3
386 Old Man's Corner f6A 8
387 The Match f6B 4
388 This Place is Shit f6A 13
389 Liddell, Ha and Crombie f6A+ 3
390 Shattered Traverse High f6C 85
391 Shattered Traverse Low f7B ** 18
  Circuits
393 JLS training circuit f6A 6a 64
394 Stone Country Yellow Circuit f5+ ** 1

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