Climbs 377
Rocktype Basalt

Faces NW

A very warm evening send of Physical Graffiti at Dumbarton Rock. © Jonathan Bean

Crag features

Glasgows best crag will test the strongest climbers with Chemin de Fer (E5) and Requiem (E8 6b) rated as Scotlands finest crack routes. Seven big boulders provide an excellent training ground. Scotland's first E9, Achemine, is here as well as Scotland's first Font 8a problem - Pongo (true sit start). [Stuart McNeil, Graham Foster]

Approach notes

From the car park a good path leads to the North Face and the Boulders.

Access Advice

Dumbarton Rock is a historic monument so do NOT climb into the castle grounds.

New resin bolts installed now installed "Bad Attitude" as well as "Half Breed" & "Unforgiven". The old rusty bolts will be chopped in due course.
JLS - 06/Oct/13
New resin bolts installed on Unforgiven and Halfbreed today. Treat with caution pending testing. Further bolt renewal on Halfbreed and Bad Attitude, as well as removal of the old bolts to follow.
JLS - 14/Sep/13
Online guide to Dumby with topos, gallery and videos can be found at: www.dumby.info
Jonathan Bean - 10/Jul/13
Dave Macleod's guide which was on scotlandonline (see above) has been moved to http://www.scottishoutdoors.co.uk/outdoors/dumbarton/intro.htm
gforce - 12/Jun/08
Bouldering with the giant imposing lines of Chemin de Fer (E5) and Requiem (E7) towering above is an experience not to be missed. You may find yourself spending a lot of time just gazing upwards at this sheer overhanging face. Longbow (E1) and Windjammer (HVS), just to the right, are great exercises in forced bridging, laybacking and jamming. Together with the graffiti, local kids, and River Clyde, Dumby is proper Glasgow hard stuff.
Paul Hutton - 31/Jul/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  North Face
2 Angel's Pavement f5  
3 Angel's Pavement Low f6A  
4 Beta
-
E1 5b 3
5 Antigrav E3 6a *  
6 Monsoon Gully
-
S 4b * 5
7 Nameless Crack
-
VD 1
  Gully Wall
9 Snowhite
-
E2 5b ** 7
  North-West Face
11 Route Three
-
HVS 5a * 10
12 Stonefall Crack
-
HVS 5a ** 78
13 Stonefall Crack Direct
-
HVS 5a 31
14 Payback Time! 7b+  
15 The Big Zipper
-
E3 5b ** 40
16 Woops E4 6a ** 5
17 Omerta 7c ** 28
18 Chemin de Fer E5 6a *** 55
19 Achemine E9 6c ***  
20 Cop Out
-
5.13c r **  
21 Rhapsody E11 7a 1
22 Direquiem
-
5.14a r **  
23 Unfinished Symphony 8b+ ** 1
24 Requiem
-
E8 6b *** 2
25 Requiem Direct Start E3 5b  
26 Dumbarton Oaks (AKA La Dumby-Dumby Project) Project *** 1
27 Rock of Ages
-
E3 6a * 4
28 Persistence of Vision 7a+ *** 204
29 Dumb and Dumber E7 6c **  
30 First Movement 6b+ ** 67
31 Abstract Movement 6b+ * 8
32 Abstract Art 6c ** 155
33 Cyclops
-
E5 6b * 1
34 Calm Before the Storm E6 6c *  
35 Dum Dum Boys
-
7c+ *** 7
36 Sufferance 8a *** 62
37 Endurance 8a ** 7
38 Suffix 8a ** 11
39 Persistance 8a * 2
40 Tarrier
-
8a ** 15
41 Tolerance 8b ** 2
42 Fever Pitch E4 5c ** 6
43 Fatso E4 5c *  
44 Negative Creep 8b 1
45 Appliance of Violence
-
7b+ ** 91
46 Gratuitous Violence 8a ** 1
47 Eh Gringo E4 5c *  
48 Desperado HVS 5a * 16
49 Blackout E6 6a ** 1
50 Windjammer
-
HVS 5a ** 127
51 Out on the Rigging HVS 5a 1
52 Bad Attitude
-
7b ** 44
53 Half Breed
-
7b ** 70
54 Unforgiven
-
7b *** 112
55 Friends in High Places E4 6a ** 2
56 Benny's Route Left-hand
-
7b 16
57 Benny's Route Right-hand
-
7c * 39
58 Natural Born Drillers 7a 90
  West Face
60 Dumbarton Chimney VS 4c 2
61 Easter Rib
-
S *** 16
62 Casanostra 6c+ * 12
63 Plunge
-
D *** 36
64 Sea Traverse/West Face Girdle f5+ 34
  Eagle Boulder
66 1920 Traverse VB 4a 22
67 Rankin's Bajin
-
VB 4a 77
68 Soixante Neuf
-
f3+ * 92
69 Pas Mal
-
f3 * 72
70 No.1 Route
-
f3+ * 102
71 Left Direct
-
f3 ** 89
72 Centre Direct
-
f4 * 95
73 Right Direct f3 49
74 No. 2 Route
-
VB 3a * 56
75 No. 2 Route SS f6B 11
76 Pullover
-
f5 * 145
77 No.2 Route Direct f4+ 50
78 Runs on Potato Power f7A * 13
79 Triple Bogey f6C 4
80 Double Bogey f6B * 14
81 Kev's Problem f7A * 20
82 John's Dyno f6B+ ** 11
83 Ramp Traverse f6C * 11
84 The Beastie f6A * 7
85 Bust My Chops LH f7A *** 26
86 Bust My Chops f7A ** 31
87 Bust My Chops RH f7A * 38
88 Bust Jeremy's Chops f7A ** 12
89 Treasure f7B * 11
90 Treasure Hunt f7B * 13
91 Fool's Gold f7A+ * 11
92 Old Faithful f5 * 8
93 Zig Zag f4 *** 143
94 Zig Zag SS f6C * 62
95 Zig Sit Start Super Low f6C+ ** 13
96 Zig Zag Variation f6A 15
97 Pullover Traverse f5+ 16
98 Jeremy's Problem f6C+ ** 18
99 Double Slopers f6A 25
100 Treasure Trail f7B+ ** 3
101 The Bampot Chop f6C+ * 6
102 Total Bampot f7A ** 4
103 Bampot Arete f6B+ * 37
104 Bampot Traverse f7A ** 27
105 Fouk Yee f7B * 2
106 Fouk Yer Chops Kev f7C 3
107 Tam's Route Sit Start f6A+ 7
108 Tam's Route f5+ 22
109 Tam's Route Original SS f7A 3
110 Shadow
-
f7A+ ** 2
111 The Story of the Hurricane f7A ** 1
112 Trick of the Vale f7B ** 2
113 High Flyer
-
f6C 8
114 Pressure
-
f8B  
115 Firefight
-
f8B  
116 Smokescreen f7C * 5
117 Firestarter
-
f8A *** 12
118 Gorilla
-
f6B *** 136
119 Gorilla Warfare
-
f7A+ ** 23
120 Gorilla Hanging Start
-
f7A 32
121 Neil's Extension/Gorilla SS
-
f7B+ *** 28
122 Silver Back
-
f7C *** 18
123 Silverback Arete f7C+ *** 3
124 Silverware V9 ** 1
125 King Kong f8A 9
126 Cautious Lip f6B * 27
127 Mother Glasgow's Starlings f7B+ ***  
128 Shin Sekai
-
f6C+ * 15
129 Hoop f7C *** 5
130 Ladderman f7C ** 1
131 Bingham's Wall
-
f7B+ ** 1
132 Dressed for Success
-
f7B+ ** 5
133 Dressed into Ford
-
f7C+  
134 Dressed Reversed
-
f7B+  
135 Supinator
-
f6A+ * 26
136 Supinator XL f6B+ 1
137 The Legacy f6B+ 1
138 2HB
-
f6A *** 84
139 2HB SS f6B 5
140 A Ford Flash
-
f7B 1
141 Ford Capri f7A+  
142 Torino Sun f6B ** 27
143 Oceans
-
f7C 5
144 Sea Bed f8A *** 2
145 1990 Traverse f7B * 38
146 2016 Traverse f7B+ *  
147 Snappy f6B+ ** 13
148 Yappy f6B+ ** 14
149 The Blue Meanie f5 *** 161
150 PTO
-
f5 * 142
  Warm-up Wall
152 Left Edge
-
f3 * 236
153 Tuesday Wall f3+ 38
154 Fridays Fill f3 * 315
155 Friar's Mantle f4+ *** 374
156 Thursday Wall f5 50
157 Ungava f4+ 276
158 Right Edge f3+ 211
159 Warmup Wall Low Traverse f5 162
  Home Rule
161 Orange Wall f6A 6
162 The Beast f3 53
163 The Brute
-
f4 13
164 The Brute SS f5+ 4
165 Valkyrie
-
f4+ 5
166 Encore Une Fois f7A * 7
167 Pas Encore f5 * 13
168 Crimp! f6B+ 9
169 More Chicken
-
f7A+ * 1
170 Head Butt f7A 18
171 More Malkstizo f7A ** 2
172 Chicken Butt f7A+ ** 1
173 Butt Head f7A+ 2
174 Malky Traverse f7B+ ** 14
175 Dagger f7B+ ** 6
176 Malky's Chicken f7B+ 4
177 Malkied f7C *** 12
178 Malky f7B+ * 47
179 Malky Schmalky f7C ** 6
180 Dweller f7B+  
181 Dweller (Mugsy jug finish) f7A 1
182 Set in Motion f7C+  
183 Hokku f8A * 3
184 Sosho f8A+ **  
185 Spam f7C * 15
186 Glasgow Kiss f7C+ *** 6
187 Spam Dagger f8A * 7
188 Mugsy Extension f7B+ ** 11
189 Mugsy Traverse f7B *** 59
190 Mugsy Sit Start f7B ** 19
191 Mugsy Static f7A+ *** 41
192 Mugsy (Ya Bass)
-
f7A *** 96
193 Houston We Have a Problem f7B  
194 Mestugso f7B ** 10
195 Malky's Sleazy Chicken f8A *** 2
196 Thoroughbred f7C+ 10
197 Nice and Sleazy f7C+ *** 16
198 Mugstizo f7B+ *** 10
199 Mestizo Extension f7B+ ** 11
200 Mestizo Traverse
-
f7B ** 60
201 Mestizo SS
-
f7A+ ** 77
202 Mestizo f6A *** 139
203 Mestizo 'Direct'
-
f7A 3
204 Art Attack f7B 5
205 Knowledge is Power f7B+ *** 3
206 Physical Graffiti f6B ** 85
207 Nice and Sleazier f7C+ ** 4
208 Eazy Sleazy f7C+ ** 2
209 Home Rule
-
f6A ** 164
210 Devolution f6C ** 18
211 Devo Max f6C * 7
212 Spray On f7B *  
213 Home Rule Low Traverse f7A+ * 32
214 Home Rule High Traverse f6B ** 42
215 Bob's Problem
-
f6A 10
216 Presence f5+ * 26
217 Royale Beauty f6B * 1
218 Route Royale E3 5c 18
219 Chicken Royale f6C 1
220 Royal Arete f6B 1
221 The Whip E2 5b ** 36
222 The Whip SS f6C * 31
223 The Whip SS Direct f6A+ * 5
224 The Switch f5 4
225 Einherjar f6B+ * 2
226 Skin Deep f6B+ * 3
227 Valhalla f4 10
228 The Beauty
-
f4 9
  Suckers Boulder
230 P.S.
-
f3 5a 16
231 Cave Route f6A 4
232 Cave Route RH f6A+ 10
233 Unnamed Toto Gallagher Eliminate f7A 8
234 Toto
-
f6A *** 238
235 Toto SS f7A 90
236 Toto Right Hand f6C ** 18
237 Totalled f7B ** 4
238 Totality f7B+ 17
239 Totality Direct Finish f7A+ * 21
240 Toto Traverse f7A+ 6
241 The Shield
-
f7B+ *** 24
242 The Shield SS
-
f7C ** 5
243 The Shield Right Hand
-
f7A+ * 8
244 The Shield Right Hand SS f7B * 1
245 Redpath's Problem f7B  
246 Power Pockets
-
f6C * 22
247 Power Pockets SS
-
f7C *  
248 Off The Rails f7A+ ** 1
249 Railing
-
f6B+ ** 150
250 Railings Extension f6B+ **  
251 Snooker Shelf
-
f4 37
252 Kneebar
-
f6A+ * 13
253 Mosca
-
f3+ 14
254 Antimatter f4 3
255 Suckers Slab
-
f4+ 14
256 Volpone
-
f3 * 44
257 Smear Test f3 5
  B.N.I Boulder
259 Chahala Easy SS
-
f6A 4
260 Chahala f5+ ** 88
261 Chahala SS
-
f8A+ 1
262 Perfect Crime f8A+ ***  
263 Perfect Crime Extension f8B  
264 The Serum of Sisyphus f8A+ *** 1
265 The Grand Tour f8B  
266 Sanction f8B *** 1
267 Gut Buster f8B+ ***  
268 B.N.I. Direct Start f7B+ *** 16
269 Le Tour De Technique f7B+ ** 9
270 La Saboteur f8A+ *** 4
271 Sabotaged f8A *** 2
272 Sabotage f8A *** 34
273 The Elbow Basher
-
f7B+ 5
274 Very Ape
-
f6C 1
275 Good Nicks
-
f6B ** 51
276 Good Nicks SS
-
f6C ** 17
277 You're Nicked
-
f7B 2
278 HP f6B+ 4
279 Pendulum
-
f4 *** 31
280 Revelation E4 6a  
281 Nadjilation E6 6b **  
282 Sugar Rush
-
f7B  
283 Harvester of Eyes
-
f3 19
284 Astronomy
-
VB 3a 26
285 Gratis Rib f3+ 2
286 Deo Gratis
-
f4+ * 20
287 Imposter Arete f3+ *** 68
288 B.N.I. Direct f5+ 10
289 B.N.I.
-
f5 *** 15
  Pongo Boulder
291 Skint Cave Traverse f6B+ 8
292 Skint Knuckles
-
f4 * 70
293 Skint Sitter
-
f6C+ 7
294 Slap Happy SS f7A 9
295 Slap Happy
-
f7A ** 175
296 Hap Slappy
-
f7B+ 43
297 Slap Happy Dyno f7C *** 3
298 Happy Slap f7C+ * 9
299 Paedo Bikini f7C * 1
300 In Bloom
-
f7C+ *** 16
301 In Bloom Arete f8A ** 1
302 Mr Tickle Extension f8A+ ** 1
303 Mr Tickle f8A ** 1
304 Pongo
-
f6C+ *** 79
305 Pongo True SS f8A *** 23
306 Pongo Jump f7B 4
307 Pongo Static f7B+ 5
308 Pongo Knuckle f7C 4
309 Supersize Me f8B  
310 Rock Around the Bloc (Low) f6C * 5
311 Rock Around the Bloc (High) f6B * 5
312 Pongo Arete f7A+ ** 57
313 The Dumbartoner f7B+ **  
314 Andy's Arete f7A ** 30
315 Buzz Saw f7A+ 9
316 Sorcerer's Slab
-
f3 61
317 Magic Wand
-
f3+ 36
318 Slant
-
f3 40
319 Shothole SS f6A+ 10
320 The Groove f4+ 6
321 Nemesis Left
-
f4+ 5
322 Nemesis f5 * 103
323 Nemesis SS f6B ** 21
324 Nemesis SS Right
-
f6B+ 6
325 Narcosis f5 * 50
326 Narcosis SS f6A * 20
327 Lunik f4+ * 55
328 Lunik SS f6A+ 10
329 Rosie and Jim f5+ * 16
330 Cheddar Direct
-
f4+ *** 176
331 Cheddar Direct SS f6A 16
332 Hard Cheddar Direct f6A+ * 9
333 Hard Cheddar
-
f5+ *** 230
334 Hard Cheddar SS f6A 62
335 Big Cheese
-
f7C+ ** 3
336 Le Rustique f7A ** 6
337 Cheese-bored f7A * 5
338 The Jugs Don't Work f6B+ ** 18
339 Juggie
-
f4 *** 75
340 The Ramp (Juggie Right)
-
f5 11
341 Jugs are for Mugs f6B * 4
342 Phoenix f7A 8
343 Consolidated f7B+ *** 56
344 Consolidated Extension f7C *** 23
345 Babybel f6C+ * 6
  Sea Boulder
347 The Crack f3 15
348 Short Wall f4+ 13
349 White Streak f6B ** 94
350 Steptoe f3+ * 159
351 Red Streak
-
f6A 100
352 Chowbok
-
f3+ ** 184
353 Erewhon f4+ 182
354 Tuesday Treat/Commercialism f6A 24
355 Commercial Route
-
f4 ** 159
356 Wednesday Wall
-
f4 92
357 Silver's Route
-
f3+ * 147
358 Silver's Route SS f6C+ ** 10
359 Silver Rib f3+ 10
360 Silver Arete f6B 4
361 Gardner's Girdle f4 *** 71
  Triplets
363 Short Sight
-
f3+ 17
364 Honesty f7A 11
365 Reducer Arete Left
-
f5+ 9
366 Reducer Arete
-
f6A 18
367 Reducer
-
f7B 6
368 Long Reach
-
f5+ 14
369 Short Notice
-
f4+ 14
370 Ivy Rib f5+ 4
371 Ivy Traverse f5 4
  Black Wall
373 The Niche Left f5+ 7
374 The Niche
-
f6A 7
375 Black Wall Crack f5+ 23
376 Black Wall Circuit f6A * 19
377 Easy Crack f3+ 9
378 Mick T f4+ 9
379 Mick T SS f6A 9
  Everdry Wall
381 Longbow
-
E1 5b ** 104
382 Longbow SS
-
f5+ 8
383 The Slopers f7A 3
384 Old Man's Corner f6A 8
385 The Match f6B 4
386 This Place is Shit f6A 13
387 Liddell, Ha and Crombie f6A+ 3
388 Shattered Traverse High f6C 88
389 Shattered Traverse Low f7B ** 18
  Circuits
391 JLS training circuit f6A 6a 64
392 Stone Country Yellow Circuit f5+ ** 1

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