Climbs 399
Rocktype Basalt

Faces NW

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A very warm evening send of Physical Graffiti at Dumbarton Rock. © Jonathan Bean

Crag features

Glasgows best crag will test the strongest climbers with Chemin de Fer (E5) and Requiem (E8 6b) rated as Scotlands finest crack routes. Seven big boulders provide an excellent training ground. Scotland's first E9, Achemine, is here as well as Scotland's first Font 8a problem - Pongo (true sit start). [Stuart McNeil, Graham Foster]

Approach notes

From the car park a good path leads to the North Face and the Boulders.

Access Advice

Dumbarton Rock is a historic monument so do NOT climb into the castle grounds.

New resin bolts installed now installed "Bad Attitude" as well as "Half Breed" & "Unforgiven". The old rusty bolts will be chopped in due course.
JLS - 06/Oct/13
New resin bolts installed on Unforgiven and Halfbreed today. Treat with caution pending testing. Further bolt renewal on Halfbreed and Bad Attitude, as well as removal of the old bolts to follow.
JLS - 14/Sep/13
Online guide to Dumby with topos, gallery and videos can be found at: www.dumby.info
Jonathan Bean - 10/Jul/13
Dave Macleod's guide which was on scotlandonline (see above) has been moved to http://www.scottishoutdoors.co.uk/outdoors/dumbarton/intro.htm
gforce - 12/Jun/08
Bouldering with the giant imposing lines of Chemin de Fer (E5) and Requiem (E7) towering above is an experience not to be missed. You may find yourself spending a lot of time just gazing upwards at this sheer overhanging face. Longbow (E1) and Windjammer (HVS), just to the right, are great exercises in forced bridging, laybacking and jamming. Together with the graffiti, local kids, and River Clyde, Dumby is proper Glasgow hard stuff.
Paul Hutton - 31/Jul/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  North Face
2 Angel's Pavement f5  
3 Angel's Pavement Low f6A  
4 Beta
-
E1 5b 3
5 Antigrav E3 6a *  
6 Monsoon Gully
-
S 4b * 5
7 Nameless Crack
-
VD 1
  Gully Wall
9 Snowhite
-
E2 5b ** 8
  North-West Face
11 Stonefall Wall E4 6a  
12 Eliminator E6 6b *  
13 Route Three
-
HVS 5a * 13
14 Stonefall Crack
-
HVS 5a ** 83
15 Stonefall Crack Direct
-
HVS 5a 37
16 Payback Time! 7b+  
17 The Big Zipper
-
E3 5b ** 33
18 Woops E4 6a ** 5
19 Omerta 7c ** 22
20 Chemin de Fer E5 6a *** 32
21 Achemine E9 6c ***  
22 Cop Out
-
5.13c r **  
23 Rhapsody E11 7a 1
24 Direquiem
-
5.14a r **  
25 Unfinished Symphony 8b+ ** 1
26 Requiem
-
E8 6b *** 3
27 Requiem Direct Start E3 5b 1
28 Dumbarton Oaks (AKA La Dumby-Dumby Project) Project *** 1
29 Rock of Ages
-
E3 6a * 4
30 Persistence of Vision 7a+ *** 200
31 Eurovision 7a ** 19
32 Dumb and Dumber E7 6c **  
33 First Movement 6b+ ** 71
34 Abstract Movement 6b+ * 6
35 Abstract Art 6c ** 150
36 Cyclops
-
E5 6b * 1
37 Calm Before the Storm E6 6c *  
38 Dum Dum Boys
-
7c+ *** 7
39 Sufferance 8a *** 48
40 Endurance 8a ** 7
41 Suffix 8a ** 7
42 Persistance 8a * 2
43 Tarrier
-
8a ** 12
44 Tolerance 8b ** 2
45 Fever Pitch E4 5c ** 6
46 Fatso E4 5c *  
47 Negative Creep 8b 1
48 Appliance of Violence
-
7b+ ** 87
49 Gratuitous Violence 8a ** 1
50 Eh Gringo E4 5c *  
51 Desperado HVS 5a * 20
52 Blackout E6 6a ** 1
53 Windjammer
-
HVS 5a ** 121
54 Out on the Rigging HVS 5a 1
55 Bad Attitude
-
7b ** 48
56 Half Breed
-
7b ** 80
57 Unforgiven
-
7b *** 114
58 Friends in High Places E4 6a ** 2
59 Benny's Route Left-hand
-
7b 19
60 Benny's Route Right-hand
-
7c * 44
61 Natural Born Drillers 7a 85
  West Face
63 Dumbarton Chimney VS 4c 2
64 Easter Rib
-
S *** 17
65 Casanostra 6c+ * 10
66 Plunge
-
D *** 37
67 Sea Traverse/West Face Girdle f5+ 34
  Eagle Boulder
69 1920 Traverse VB 4a 25
70 Rankin's Bajin
-
VB 4a 85
71 Soixante Neuf
-
f3+ * 99
72 Pas Mal
-
f3 * 77
73 No.1 Route
-
f3+ * 108
74 Left Direct
-
f3 ** 99
75 Centre Direct
-
f4 * 103
76 Right Direct f3 51
77 No. 2 Route
-
VB 3a * 64
78 No. 2 Route SS f6B 11
79 No.2 Route Direct f4+ 55
80 Pullover
-
f5 * 147
81 Condor * V5 6c *  
82 Runs on Potato Power f7A * 14
83 Triple Bogey f6C 4
84 Double Bogey f6B * 14
85 Kev's Problem f7A * 20
86 John's Dyno f6B+ ** 11
87 Ramp Traverse f6C * 11
88 The Beastie f6A * 7
89 Bust My Chops LH f7A *** 33
90 Bust My Chops f7A ** 37
91 Bust My Chops RH f7A * 44
92 Bust Jeremy's Chops f7A ** 11
93 Treasure f7B * 12
94 Treasure Hunt f7B * 12
95 Fool's Gold f7A+ * 11
96 Old Faithful f5 * 10
97 Zig Zag f4 *** 151
98 Zig Zag SS f6C * 65
99 Zig Sit Start Super Low f6C+ ** 13
100 Zig Zag Variation f6A 15
101 Pullover Traverse f5+ 18
102 Jeremy's Problem f6C+ ** 18
103 Double Slopers f6A 28
104 Treasure Trail f7B+ ** 3
105 The Bampot Chop f6C+ * 6
106 Total Bamchop * f7A 1
107 Total Bampot f7A ** 4
108 Bampot Arete f6B+ * 37
109 Bampot Traverse f7A ** 27
110 Fouk Yee f7B * 4
111 Fouk Yer Chops Kev f7C 3
112 Tam's Route Sit Start f6A+ 8
113 Tam's Route f5+ 24
114 Tam's Route Original SS f7A 3
115 Shadow
-
f7A+ ** 2
116 The Story of the Hurricane f7A ** 1
117 Trick of the Vale f7B ** 2
118 High Flyer
-
f6C 8
119 Pressure
-
f8B 1
120 Firefight
-
f8B  
121 Smokescreen f7C * 6
122 Firestarter
-
f8A *** 4
123 Gorilla
-
f6B *** 138
124 Gorilla Warfare
-
f7A+ ** 22
125 Gorilla Warfare Hanging Start f7A+ ** 1
126 Gorilla Hanging Start
-
f7A 33
127 Neil's Extension/Gorilla SS
-
f7B+ *** 24
128 Silver Back
-
f7C *** 19
129 Silverback Arete f7C+ *** 3
130 Silverware V9 ** 2
131 King Kong f8A 9
132 Cautious Lip f6B * 28
133 Mother Glasgow's Starlings f7B+ ***  
134 Shin Sekai
-
f6C+ * 15
135 Hoop f7C *** 6
136 Ladderman f7C ** 2
137 Bingham's Wall
-
f7B+ ** 1
138 Dressed for Success
-
f7B+ ** 5
Climb name Grade
139 Dressed into Ford
-
f7C+  
140 Dressed Reversed
-
f7B+  
141 Supinator
-
f6A+ * 30
142 Supinator XL f6B+ 1
143 The Legacy f6B+ 1
144 2HB
-
f6A *** 77
145 2HB SS f6B 5
146 A Ford Flash
-
f7B 1
147 Ford Capri f7A+  
148 Torino Sun f6B ** 28
149 Oceans
-
f7C 5
150 Sea Bed f8A *** 2
151 1990 Traverse f7B * 36
152 2016 Traverse f7B+ *  
153 Snappy f6B+ ** 13
154 Yappy f6B+ ** 13
155 The Blue Meanie f5 *** 174
156 Green Meanie f5 4
157 PTO
-
f5 * 156
158 PTO Right Hand f4+ 4
  Warm-up Wall
160 Left Edge
-
f3 * 261
161 Tuesday Wall f3+ 46
162 Fridays Fill f3 * 342
163 Friar's Mantle f4+ *** 422
164 Thursday Wall f5 58
165 Ungava f4+ 305
166 Warm Up Wall Dyno Eliminate f6A 5
167 Right Edge f3+ 229
168 Warmup Wall Low Traverse f5 180
  Home Rule
170 Orange Wall f6A 7
171 The Beast f3 56
172 The Brute f4 13
173 The Brute SS f5+ 4
174 Valkyrie f4+ 6
175 Encore Une Fois f7A * 7
176 Pas Encore f5 * 14
177 Crimp! f6B+ 9
178 More Chicken
-
f7A+ * 2
179 Head Butt f7A 18
180 More Malkstizo f7A ** 2
181 Chicken Butt f7A+ ** 1
182 Butt Head f7A+ 2
183 Malky Traverse f7B+ ** 16
184 Dagger f7B+ ** 9
185 Malky's Chicken f7B+ 5
186 Malkied f7C *** 11
187 Malky f7B+ * 50
188 Malky Sit Start f7C 2
189 Malky Schmalky f7C ** 9
190 Dweller f7B+ 1
191 Dweller (Mugsy jug finish) f7A 5
192 Set in Motion f7C+  
193 Hokku f8A * 1
194 Sosho f8A+ **  
195 Spam f7C * 18
196 Spamsly * f7C+ 1
197 Glasgow Kiss f7C+ *** 7
198 Spam Dagger f8A * 9
199 Mugsy Extension f7B+ ** 13
200 Mugsy Traverse f7B *** 58
201 Mugsy Sit Start f7B ** 21
202 Mugsy Static f7A+ *** 49
203 Mugsly f7B+ 3
204 Mugslife f7C 1
205 Mugsy (Ya Bass)
-
f7A *** 92
206 Houston We Have a Problem f7B  
207 Mestugso f7B ** 12
208 Malky's Sleazy Chicken f8A *** 3
209 Thoroughbred f7C+ 11
210 Nice and Sleazy f7C+ *** 18
211 Mugstizo f7B+ *** 12
212 Mugstizo High f7B ** 4
213 Mestizo Extension f7B+ ** 14
214 Mestizo Traverse f7B ** 60
215 Mestizo SS f7A+ ** 79
216 Mestizo f6A *** 151
217 Mestizo 'Direct'
-
f7A 3
218 Art Attack f7B 5
219 Power Relation f7B 1
220 Knowledge is Power f7B+ *** 4
221 Physical Graffiti f6B ** 72
222 Nice and Sleazier f7C+ ** 4
223 Eazy Sleazy f7C+ ** 2
224 Home Rule
-
f6A ** 172
225 Devolution f6C ** 18
226 Devo Max f6C * 7
227 Spray On f7B * 1
228 Home Rule Low Traverse f7A+ * 32
229 Home Rule High Traverse f6B ** 43
230 Bob's Problem
-
f6A 10
231 Presence f5+ * 28
232 Royale Beauty f6B * 1
233 Route Royale E3 5c 18
234 Chicken Royale f6C 2
235 Royal Arete f6B 2
236 The Whip E2 5b ** 38
237 The Whip SS f6C * 30
238 The Whip SS Direct f6A+ * 5
239 The Switch f5 4
240 Einherjar f6B+ * 2
241 Skin Deep f6B+ * 4
242 Valhalla f4 11
243 The Beauty f4 10
  Suckers Boulder
245 P.S.
-
f3 5a 19
246 Cave Route f6A 4
247 Cave Route RH f6A+ 11
248 Unnamed Toto Gallagher Eliminate f7A 10
249 Toto f6A *** 254
250 Toto SS f7A 89
251 Toto Right Hand f6C ** 18
252 Totalled f7B ** 6
253 Totality f7B+ 16
254 Totality Direct Finish f7A+ * 21
255 Toto Traverse f7A+ 6
256 The Shield f7B+ *** 28
257 The Shield SS f7C ** 6
258 The Shield Right Hand
-
f7A+ * 10
259 The Shield Right Hand SS f7B * 2
260 Redpath's Problem f7B  
261 Power Pockets
-
f6C * 25
262 Power Pockets SS
-
f7C *  
263 Off The Rails f7A+ ** 1
264 Railing
-
f6B+ ** 149
265 Railings Extension f6B+ **  
266 Snooker Shelf
-
f4 41
267 Kneebar
-
f6A+ * 14
268 Mosca f3+ 16
269 Antimatter f4 3
270 Suckers Slab f4+ 14
271 Volpone f3 * 48
272 Smear Test f3 6
  B.N.I Boulder
274 Chahala Easy SS
-
f6A 4
275 Chahala f5+ ** 98
276 Chahala SS
-
f8A+ 1
Climb name Grade
277 Perfect Crime f8A+ ***  
278 Perfect Crime Extension f8B  
279 The Serum of Sisyphus f8A+ *** 1
280 The Grand Tour f8B  
281 Sanction f8B *** 2
282 Gut Buster f8B+ ***  
283 B.N.I. Direct Start f7B+ *** 15
284 Le Tour De Technique f7B+ ** 10
285 La Saboteur f8A+ *** 4
286 Sabotaged f8A *** 2
287 Sabotage f8A *** 24
288 The Elbow Basher
-
f7B+ 6
289 Very Ape
-
f6C 1
290 Good Nicks
-
f6B ** 54
291 Good Nicks SS
-
f6C ** 17
292 You're Nicked f7B 2
293 HP f6B+ 4
294 Pendulum
-
f4 *** 33
295 Revelation E4 6a 1
296 Nadjilation E6 6b **  
297 Sugar Rush
-
f7B  
298 Harvester of Eyes
-
f3 21
299 Astronomy VB 33
300 Gratis Rib f3+ 3
301 Deo Gratis f4+ * 23
302 Imposter Arete f3+ *** 72
303 B.N.I. Direct f5+ 8
304 B.N.I.
-
f5 *** 15
  Pongo Boulder
306 Skint Cave Traverse f6B+ 9
307 Skint Knuckles
-
f4 * 71
308 Skint Sitter
-
f6C+ 6
309 Slap Happy SS f7A 10
310 Slap Happy f7A ** 177
311 Hap Slappy f7B+ 47
312 Slap Happy Dyno f7C *** 4
313 Happy Slap f7C+ * 9
314 Paedo Bikini f7C * 3
315 In Bloom f7C+ *** 14
316 In Bloom Arete f8A ** 1
317 Mr Tickle Extension f8A+ ** 1
318 Mr Tickle f8A ** 1
319 Pongo f6C+ *** 73
320 Pongo True SS f8A *** 13
321 Pongo Jump f7B 5
322 Pongo Static f7B+ 6
323 Pongo Knuckle f7C 4
324 Supersize Me f8B  
325 Rock Around the Bloc (Low) f6C * 5
326 Rock Around the Bloc (High) f6B * 5
327 Pongo Arete f7A+ ** 56
328 Embrace The Rock V7 **  
329 Amalgamated * f7C  
330 The Dumbartoner f7B+ **  
331 Andy's Arete f7A ** 31
332 Buzz Saw f7A+ 9
333 Sorcerer's Slab
-
f3 66
334 Magic Wand
-
f3+ 36
335 Slant
-
f3 40
336 Shothole SS f6A+ 11
337 Steak At Lunch * V3 6a+  
338 The Groove f4+ 9
339 Nemesis Left
-
f4+ 5
340 Nemesis f5 * 111
341 Nemesis SS f6B ** 22
342 Nemesis SS Right
-
f6B+ 6
343 Narcosis f5 * 50
344 Narcosis SS f6A * 21
345 Lunik f4+ * 57
346 Lunik SS f6A+ 11
347 Rosie and Jim f5+ * 18
348 Cheddar Direct f4+ *** 191
349 Cheddar Direct SS f6A 21
350 Hard Cheddar Direct f6A+ * 13
351 Hard Cheddar
-
f5+ *** 253
352 Hard Cheddar SS f6A 66
353 Big Cheese
-
f7C+ ** 3
354 Le Rustique f7A ** 9
355 Cheese-bored f7A * 6
356 The Jugs Don't Work f6B+ ** 17
357 Juggie
-
f4 *** 85
358 The Ramp (Juggie Right)
-
f5 14
359 Jugs are for Mugs f6B * 6
360 Phoenix f7A 10
361 Consolidated f7B+ *** 52
362 Consolidated Extension f7C *** 27
363 Babybel f6C+ * 6
364 'Consoled' f7A+ 3
365 Solid f6C 5
366 ...Dated f7A+ 3
  Sea Boulder
368 The Crack f3 21
369 Short Wall f4+ 20
370 White Streak f6B ** 100
371 Steptoe f3+ * 173
372 Red Streak
-
f6A 102
373 Chowbok
-
f3+ ** 198
374 Erewhon f4+ 196
375 Tuesday Treat/Commercialism f6A 26
376 Commercial Route
-
f4 ** 167
377 Wednesday Wall f4 98
378 Silver's Route
-
f3+ * 154
379 Silver's Route SS f6C+ ** 12
380 Silver Rib f3+ 12
381 Silver Arete f6B 5
382 Gardner's Girdle f4 *** 75
  Triplets
384 Short Sight
-
f3+ 19
385 Honesty f7A 11
386 Reducer Arete Left
-
f5+ 11
387 Reducer Arete
-
f6A 22
388 Reducer
-
f7B 6
389 Long Reach
-
f5+ 15
390 Short Notice
-
f4+ 16
391 Ivy Rib f5+ 5
392 Ivy Traverse f5 6
  Black Wall
394 The Niche Left f5+ 9
395 The Niche
-
f6A 8
396 Black Wall Crack f5+ 26
397 Black Wall Circuit f6A * 23
398 Easy Crack f3+ 10
399 Mick T f4+ 9
400 Mick T SS f6A 8
  Everdry Wall
402 Longbow
-
E1 5b ** 100
403 Longbow SS
-
f5+ 11
404 The Slopers f7A 3
405 Old Man's Corner f6A 9
406 The Match f6B 4
407 This Place is Shit f6A 15
408 Liddell, Ha and Crombie f6A+ 3
409 Shattered Traverse High f6C 99
410 Shattered Traverse Low f7B ** 20
  Circuits
412 JLS training circuit f6A 6a 67
413 Stone Country Yellow Circuit f5+ ** 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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