Climbs 376
Rocktype Basalt

Faces NW

A very warm evening send of Physical Graffiti at Dumbarton Rock. © Jonathan Bean

Crag features

Glasgows best crag will test the strongest climbers with Chemin de Fer (E5) and Requiem (E8 6b) rated as Scotlands finest crack routes. Seven big boulders provide an excellent training ground. Scotland's first E9, Achemine, is here as well as Scotland's first Font 8a problem - Pongo (true sit start). [Stuart McNeil, Graham Foster]

Approach notes

From the car park a good path leads to the North Face and the Boulders.

Access Advice

Dumbarton Rock is a historic monument so do NOT climb into the castle grounds.

New resin bolts installed now installed "Bad Attitude" as well as "Half Breed" & "Unforgiven". The old rusty bolts will be chopped in due course.
JLS - 06/Oct/13
New resin bolts installed on Unforgiven and Halfbreed today. Treat with caution pending testing. Further bolt renewal on Halfbreed and Bad Attitude, as well as removal of the old bolts to follow.
JLS - 14/Sep/13
Online guide to Dumby with topos, gallery and videos can be found at: www.dumby.info
Jonathan Bean - 10/Jul/13
Dave Macleod's guide which was on scotlandonline (see above) has been moved to http://www.scottishoutdoors.co.uk/outdoors/dumbarton/intro.htm
gforce - 12/Jun/08
Bouldering with the giant imposing lines of Chemin de Fer (E5) and Requiem (E7) towering above is an experience not to be missed. You may find yourself spending a lot of time just gazing upwards at this sheer overhanging face. Longbow (E1) and Windjammer (HVS), just to the right, are great exercises in forced bridging, laybacking and jamming. Together with the graffiti, local kids, and River Clyde, Dumby is proper Glasgow hard stuff.
Paul Hutton - 31/Jul/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  North Face
2 Angel's Pavement f5  
3 Angel's Pavement Low f6A  
4 Beta
-
E1 5b 3
5 Antigrav E3 6a *  
6 Monsoon Gully
-
S 4b * 5
7 Nameless Crack
-
VD 1
  Gully Wall
9 Snowhite
-
E2 5b ** 7
  North-West Face
11 Route Three
-
HVS 5a * 10
12 Stonefall Crack
-
HVS 5a ** 78
13 Stonefall Crack Direct
-
HVS 5a 31
14 Payback Time! 7b+  
15 The Big Zipper
-
E3 5b ** 38
16 Woops E4 6a ** 5
17 Omerta 7c ** 28
18 Chemin de Fer E5 6a *** 51
19 Achemine E9 6c ***  
20 Cop Out
-
5.13c r **  
21 Rhapsody E11 7a 1
22 Direquiem
-
5.14a r **  
23 Unfinished Symphony 8b+ ** 1
24 Requiem
-
E8 6b *** 2
25 Requiem Direct Start E3 5b  
26 Dumbarton Oaks (AKA La Dumby-Dumby Project) Project *** 1
27 Rock of Ages
-
E3 6a * 4
28 Persistence of Vision 7a+ *** 200
29 Dumb and Dumber E7 6c **  
30 First Movement 6b+ ** 64
31 Abstract Movement 6b+ * 8
32 Abstract Art 6c ** 152
33 Cyclops
-
E5 6b * 1
34 Calm Before the Storm E6 6c *  
35 Dum Dum Boys
-
7c+ *** 7
36 Sufferance 8a *** 62
37 Endurance 8a ** 7
38 Suffix 8a ** 11
39 Persistance 8a * 2
40 Tarrier
-
8a ** 15
41 Tolerance 8b ** 2
42 Fever Pitch E4 5c ** 6
43 Fatso E4 5c *  
44 Negative Creep 8b 1
45 Appliance of Violence
-
7b+ ** 90
46 Gratuitous Violence 8a ** 1
47 Eh Gringo E4 5c *  
48 Desperado HVS 5a * 16
49 Blackout E6 6a ** 1
50 Windjammer
-
HVS 5a ** 127
51 Out on the Rigging HVS 5a 1
52 Bad Attitude
-
7b ** 42
53 Half Breed
-
7b ** 70
54 Unforgiven
-
7b *** 110
55 Friends in High Places E4 6a ** 2
56 Benny's Route Left-hand
-
7b 16
57 Benny's Route Right-hand
-
7c * 38
58 Natural Born Drillers 7a 89
  West Face
60 Dumbarton Chimney VS 4c 2
61 Easter Rib
-
S *** 16
62 Casanostra 6c+ * 12
63 Plunge
-
D *** 36
64 Sea Traverse/West Face Girdle f5+ 34
  Eagle Boulder
66 1920 Traverse VB 4a 22
67 Rankin's Bajin
-
VB 4a 77
68 Soixante Neuf
-
f3+ * 90
69 Pas Mal
-
f3 * 72
70 No.1 Route
-
f3+ * 102
71 Left Direct
-
f3 ** 89
72 Centre Direct
-
f4 * 95
73 Right Direct f3 49
74 No. 2 Route
-
VB 3a * 56
75 No. 2 Route SS f6B 11
76 Pullover
-
f5 * 142
77 No.2 Route Direct f4+ 50
78 Runs on Potato Power f7A * 13
79 Triple Bogey f6C 4
80 Double Bogey f6B * 14
81 Kev's Problem f7A * 20
82 John's Dyno f6B+ ** 11
83 Ramp Traverse f6C * 11
84 The Beastie f6A * 7
85 Bust My Chops LH f7A *** 26
86 Bust My Chops f7A ** 31
87 Bust My Chops RH f7A * 38
88 Bust Jeremy's Chops f7A ** 12
89 Treasure f7B * 11
90 Treasure Hunt f7B * 13
91 Fool's Gold f7A+ * 11
92 Old Faithful f5 * 8
93 Zig Zag f4 *** 143
94 Zig Zag SS f6C * 62
95 Zig Sit Start Super Low f6C+ ** 13
96 Zig Zag Variation f6A 15
97 Pullover Traverse f5+ 16
98 Jeremy's Problem f6C+ ** 18
99 Double Slopers f6A 25
100 Treasure Trail f7B+ ** 3
101 The Bampot Chop f6C+ * 6
102 Total Bampot f7A ** 4
103 Bampot Arete f6B+ * 37
104 Bampot Traverse f7A ** 27
105 Fouk Yee f7B * 2
106 Fouk Yer Chops Kev f7C 3
107 Tam's Route Sit Start f6A+ 7
108 Tam's Route f5+ 22
109 Tam's Route Original SS f7A 3
110 Shadow
-
f7A+ ** 2
111 The Story of the Hurricane f7A ** 1
112 Trick of the Vale f7B ** 2
113 High Flyer
-
f6C 8
114 Pressure
-
f8B  
115 Firefight
-
f8B  
116 Smokescreen f7C * 5
117 Firestarter
-
f8A *** 12
118 Gorilla
-
f6B *** 135
119 Gorilla Warfare
-
f7A+ ** 19
120 Gorilla Hanging Start
-
f7A 32
121 Neil's Extension/Gorilla SS
-
f7B+ *** 28
122 Silver Back
-
f7C *** 18
123 Silverback Arete f7C+ *** 3
124 King Kong f8A 9
125 Cautious Lip f6B * 27
126 Mother Glasgow's Starlings f7B+ ***  
127 Shin Sekai
-
f6C+ * 14
128 Hoop f7C *** 5
129 Ladderman f7C ** 1
130 Bingham's Wall
-
f7B+ ** 1
131 Dressed for Success
-
f7B+ ** 5
132 Dressed into Ford
-
f7C+  
133 Dressed Reversed
-
f7B+  
134 Supinator
-
f6A+ * 26
135 Supinator XL f6B+ 1
136 The Legacy f6B+ 1
137 2HB
-
f6A *** 84
138 2HB SS f6B 5
139 A Ford Flash
-
f7B 1
140 Ford Capri f7A+  
141 Torino Sun f6B ** 27
142 Oceans
-
f7C 5
143 Sea Bed f8A *** 2
144 1990 Traverse f7B * 32
145 2016 Traverse f7B+ *  
146 Snappy f6B+ ** 13
147 Yappy f6B+ ** 9
148 The Blue Meanie f5 *** 160
149 PTO
-
f5 * 141
  Warm-up Wall
151 Left Edge
-
f3 * 236
152 Tuesday Wall f3+ 37
153 Fridays Fill f3 * 315
154 Friar's Mantle f4+ *** 373
155 Thursday Wall f5 50
156 Ungava f4+ 276
157 Right Edge f3+ 211
158 Warmup Wall Low Traverse f5 162
  Home Rule
160 Orange Wall f6A 6
161 The Beast f3 53
162 The Brute
-
f4 13
163 The Brute SS f5+ 4
164 Valkyrie
-
f4+ 5
165 Encore Une Fois f7A * 7
166 Pas Encore f5 * 13
167 Crimp! f6B+ 9
168 More Chicken
-
f7A+ * 1
169 Head Butt f7A 18
170 More Malkstizo f7A ** 2
171 Chicken Butt f7A+ ** 1
172 Butt Head f7A+ 2
173 Malky Traverse f7B+ ** 13
174 Dagger f7B+ ** 6
175 Malky's Chicken f7B+ 4
176 Malkied f7C *** 12
177 Malky f7B+ * 46
178 Malky Schmalky f7C ** 6
179 Dweller f7B+  
180 Dweller (Mugsy jug finish) f7A 1
181 Set in Motion f7C+  
182 Hokku f8A *  
183 Sosho f8A+ **  
184 Spam f7C * 15
185 Glasgow Kiss f7C+ *** 6
186 Spam Dagger f8A * 7
187 Mugsy Extension f7B+ ** 10
188 Mugsy Traverse f7B *** 58
189 Mugsy Sit Start f7B ** 17
190 Mugsy Static f7A+ *** 37
191 Mugsy (Ya Bass)
-
f7A *** 96
192 Houston We Have a Problem f7B  
193 Mestugso f7B ** 10
194 Malky's Sleazy Chicken f8A *** 2
195 Thoroughbred f7C+ 10
196 Nice and Sleazy f7C+ *** 16
197 Mugstizo f7B+ *** 10
198 Mestizo Extension f7B+ ** 11
199 Mestizo Traverse
-
f7B ** 60
200 Mestizo SS
-
f7A+ ** 75
201 Mestizo f6A *** 138
202 Mestizo 'Direct'
-
f7A 3
203 Art Attack f7B 5
204 Knowledge is Power f7B+ *** 3
205 Physical Graffiti f6B ** 84
206 Nice and Sleazier f7C+ ** 4
207 Eazy Sleazy f7C+ ** 2
208 Home Rule
-
f6A ** 162
209 Devolution f6C ** 18
210 Devo Max f6C * 7
211 Spray On f7B *  
212 Home Rule Low Traverse f7A+ * 30
213 Home Rule High Traverse f6B ** 42
214 Bob's Problem
-
f6A 10
215 Presence f5+ * 26
216 Royale Beauty f6B * 1
217 Route Royale E3 5c 18
218 Chicken Royale f6C 1
219 Royal Arete f6B 1
220 The Whip E2 5b ** 36
221 The Whip SS f6C * 30
222 The Whip SS Direct f6A+ * 5
223 The Switch f5 4
224 Einherjar f6B+ * 2
225 Skin Deep f6B+ * 3
226 Valhalla f4 10
227 The Beauty
-
f4 8
  Suckers Boulder
229 P.S.
-
f3 5a 16
230 Cave Route f6A 4
231 Cave Route RH f6A+ 10
232 Unnamed Toto Gallagher Eliminate f7A 8
233 Toto
-
f6A *** 236
234 Toto SS f7A 90
235 Toto Right Hand f6C ** 18
236 Totalled f7B ** 4
237 Totality f7B+ 17
238 Totality Direct Finish f7A+ * 21
239 Toto Traverse f7A+ 6
240 The Shield
-
f7B+ *** 24
241 The Shield SS
-
f7C ** 5
242 The Shield Right Hand
-
f7A+ * 8
243 The Shield Right Hand SS f7B * 1
244 Redpath's Problem f7B  
245 Power Pockets
-
f6C * 22
246 Power Pockets SS
-
f7C *  
247 Off The Rails f7A+ ** 1
248 Railing
-
f6B+ ** 149
249 Railings Extension f6B+ **  
250 Snooker Shelf
-
f4 37
251 Kneebar
-
f6A+ * 13
252 Mosca
-
f3+ 14
253 Antimatter f4 3
254 Suckers Slab
-
f4+ 14
255 Volpone
-
f3 * 43
256 Smear Test f3 5
  B.N.I Boulder
258 Chahala Easy SS
-
f6A 4
259 Chahala f5+ ** 86
260 Chahala SS
-
f8A+ 1
261 Perfect Crime f8A+ ***  
262 Perfect Crime Extension f8B  
263 The Serum of Sisyphus f8A+ *** 1
264 The Grand Tour f8B  
265 Sanction f8B *** 1
266 Gut Buster f8B+ ***  
267 B.N.I. Direct Start f7B+ *** 15
268 Le Tour De Technique f7B+ ** 8
269 La Saboteur f8A+ *** 4
270 Sabotaged f8A *** 2
271 Sabotage f8A *** 33
272 The Elbow Basher
-
f7B+ 5
273 Very Ape
-
f6C 1
274 Good Nicks
-
f6B ** 51
275 Good Nicks SS
-
f6C ** 17
276 You're Nicked
-
f7B 2
277 HP f6B+ 4
278 Pendulum
-
f4 *** 31
279 Revelation E4 6a  
280 Nadjilation E6 6b **  
281 Sugar Rush
-
f7B  
282 Harvester of Eyes
-
f3 19
283 Astronomy
-
VB 3a 26
284 Gratis Rib f3+ 2
285 Deo Gratis
-
f4+ * 20
286 Imposter Arete f3+ *** 62
287 B.N.I. Direct f5+ 9
288 B.N.I.
-
f5 *** 15
  Pongo Boulder
290 Skint Cave Traverse f6B+ 8
291 Skint Knuckles
-
f4 * 70
292 Skint Sitter
-
f6C+ 7
293 Slap Happy SS f7A 8
294 Slap Happy
-
f7A ** 173
295 Hap Slappy
-
f7B+ 41
296 Slap Happy Dyno f7C *** 3
297 Happy Slap f7C+ * 8
298 Paedo Bikini f7C * 1
299 In Bloom
-
f7C+ *** 16
300 In Bloom Arete f8A ** 1
301 Mr Tickle Extension f8A+ ** 1
302 Mr Tickle f8A ** 1
303 Pongo
-
f6C+ *** 79
304 Pongo True SS f8A *** 23
305 Pongo Jump f7B 4
306 Pongo Static f7B+ 5
307 Pongo Knuckle f7C 4
308 Supersize Me f8B  
309 Rock Around the Bloc (Low) f6C * 5
310 Rock Around the Bloc (High) f6B * 5
311 Pongo Arete f7A+ ** 57
312 The Dumbartoner f7B+ **  
313 Andy's Arete f7A ** 30
314 Buzz Saw f7A+ 9
315 Sorcerer's Slab
-
f3 61
316 Magic Wand
-
f3+ 36
317 Slant
-
f3 40
318 Shothole SS f6A+ 10
319 The Groove f4+ 6
320 Nemesis Left
-
f4+ 5
321 Nemesis f5 * 103
322 Nemesis SS f6B ** 21
323 Nemesis SS Right
-
f6B+ 6
324 Narcosis f5 * 50
325 Narcosis SS f6A * 20
326 Lunik f4+ * 55
327 Lunik SS f6A+ 10
328 Rosie and Jim f5+ * 16
329 Cheddar Direct
-
f4+ *** 175
330 Cheddar Direct SS f6A 16
331 Hard Cheddar Direct f6A+ * 9
332 Hard Cheddar
-
f5+ *** 229
333 Hard Cheddar SS f6A 62
334 Big Cheese
-
f7C+ ** 3
335 Le Rustique f7A ** 6
336 Cheese-bored f7A * 5
337 The Jugs Don't Work f6B+ ** 15
338 Juggie
-
f4 *** 75
339 The Ramp (Juggie Right)
-
f5 11
340 Jugs are for Mugs f6B * 4
341 Phoenix f7A 8
342 Consolidated f7B+ *** 54
343 Consolidated Extension f7C *** 23
344 Babybel f6C+ * 6
  Sea Boulder
346 The Crack f3 15
347 Short Wall f4+ 13
348 White Streak f6B ** 93
349 Steptoe f3+ * 158
350 Red Streak
-
f6A 100
351 Chowbok
-
f3+ ** 183
352 Erewhon f4+ 182
353 Tuesday Treat/Commercialism f6A 24
354 Commercial Route
-
f4 ** 159
355 Wednesday Wall
-
f4 92
356 Silver's Route
-
f3+ * 147
357 Silver's Route SS f6C+ ** 10
358 Silver Rib f3+ 10
359 Silver Arete f6B 4
360 Gardner's Girdle f4 *** 71
  Triplets
362 Short Sight
-
f3+ 17
363 Honesty f7A 11
364 Reducer Arete Left
-
f5+ 9
365 Reducer Arete
-
f6A 18
366 Reducer
-
f7B 6
367 Long Reach
-
f5+ 14
368 Short Notice
-
f4+ 14
369 Ivy Rib f5+ 4
370 Ivy Traverse f5 4
  Black Wall
372 The Niche Left f5+ 7
373 The Niche
-
f6A 6
374 Black Wall Crack f5+ 23
375 Black Wall Circuit f6A * 19
376 Easy Crack f3+ 8
377 Mick T f4+ 8
378 Mick T SS f6A 9
  Everdry Wall
380 Longbow
-
E1 5b ** 103
381 Longbow SS
-
f5+ 8
382 The Slopers f7A 3
383 Old Man's Corner f6A 8
384 The Match f6B 4
385 This Place is Shit f6A 13
386 Liddell, Ha and Crombie f6A+ 3
387 Shattered Traverse High f6C 88
388 Shattered Traverse Low f7B ** 18
  Circuits
390 JLS training circuit f6A 6a 64
391 Stone Country Yellow Circuit f5+ ** 1

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