Climbs 376
Rocktype Basalt

Faces NW

A very warm evening send of Physical Graffiti at Dumbarton Rock. © Jonathan Bean

Crag features

Glasgows best crag will test the strongest climbers with Chemin de Fer (E5) and Requiem (E8 6b) rated as Scotlands finest crack routes. Seven big boulders provide an excellent training ground. Scotland's first E9, Achemine, is here as well as Scotland's first Font 8a problem - Pongo (true sit start). [Stuart McNeil, Graham Foster]

Approach notes

From the car park a good path leads to the North Face and the Boulders.

Access Advice

Dumbarton Rock is a historic monument so do NOT climb into the castle grounds.

New resin bolts installed now installed "Bad Attitude" as well as "Half Breed" & "Unforgiven". The old rusty bolts will be chopped in due course.
JLS - 06/Oct/13
New resin bolts installed on Unforgiven and Halfbreed today. Treat with caution pending testing. Further bolt renewal on Halfbreed and Bad Attitude, as well as removal of the old bolts to follow.
JLS - 14/Sep/13
Online guide to Dumby with topos, gallery and videos can be found at: www.dumby.info
Jonathan Bean - 10/Jul/13
Dave Macleod's guide which was on scotlandonline (see above) has been moved to http://www.scottishoutdoors.co.uk/outdoors/dumbarton/intro.htm
gforce - 12/Jun/08
Bouldering with the giant imposing lines of Chemin de Fer (E5) and Requiem (E7) towering above is an experience not to be missed. You may find yourself spending a lot of time just gazing upwards at this sheer overhanging face. Longbow (E1) and Windjammer (HVS), just to the right, are great exercises in forced bridging, laybacking and jamming. Together with the graffiti, local kids, and River Clyde, Dumby is proper Glasgow hard stuff.
Paul Hutton - 31/Jul/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 North Face 
2Angel's Pavementf5  
3Angel's Pavement Lowf6A  
4Beta
-
E1 5b 3
5AntigravE3 6a * 
6Monsoon Gully
-
S 4b *5
7Nameless Crack
-
VD 1
 Gully Wall 
9Snowhite
-
E2 5b **7
 North-West Face 
11Route Three
-
HVS 5a *10
12Stonefall Crack
-
HVS 5a **73
13Stonefall Crack Direct
-
HVS 5a 32
14Payback Time!7b+  
15The Big Zipper
-
E3 5b **28
16WoopsE4 6a **6
17Omerta7c **27
18Chemin de FerE5 6a ***49
19AchemineE9 6c *** 
20Cop Out
-
5.13c r ** 
21RhapsodyE11 7a 19
22Direquiem
-
5.14a r ** 
23Unfinished Symphony8b+ **1
24Requiem
-
E8 6b ***2
25Requiem Direct StartE3 5b  
26Dumbarton Oaks (AKA La Dumby-Dumby Project)Project ***1
27Rock of Ages
-
E3 6a *4
28Persistence of Vision7a+ ***187
29Dumb and DumberE7 6c ** 
30First Movement6b+ **56
31Abstract Movement6b+ *4
32Abstract Art6c **138
33Cyclops
-
E5 6b *1
34Calm Before the StormE6 6c * 
35Dum Dum Boys
-
7c+ ***7
36Sufferance8a ***60
37Endurance8a **10
38Suffix8a **10
39Persistance8a *2
40Tarrier
-
8a **10
41Tolerance8b **2
42Fever PitchE4 5c **6
43FatsoE4 5c * 
44Negative Creep8b 1
45Appliance of Violence
-
7b+ **85
46Gratuitous Violence8a **1
47Eh GringoE4 5c * 
48DesperadoHVS 5a *16
49BlackoutE6 6a **1
50Windjammer
-
HVS 5a **125
51Out on the RiggingHVS 5a 1
52Bad Attitude
-
7b **39
53Half Breed
-
7b **67
54Unforgiven
-
7b ***103
55Friends in High PlacesE4 6a **1
56Benny's Route Left-hand
-
7b 17
57Benny's Route Right-hand
-
7c *34
58Natural Born Drillers7a 83
 West Face 
60Dumbarton ChimneyVS 4c 2
61Easter Rib
-
S ***22
62Casanostra6c+ *11
63Plunge
-
D ***42
64Sea Traverse/West Face Girdlef5+ 30
 Eagle Boulder 
661920 TraverseVB 21
67Rankin's Bajin
-
VB 75
68Soixante Neuf
-
f3+ *89
69Pas Mal
-
f3 *69
70No.1 Route
-
f3+ *100
71Left Direct
-
f3 **88
72Centre Direct
-
f4 *93
73Right Directf3 47
74No. 2 Route
-
VB *54
75No. 2 Route SSf6B 11
76Pullover
-
f5 *140
77No.2 Route Directf4+ 49
78Runs on Potato Powerf7A *14
79Triple Bogeyf6C 4
80Double Bogeyf6B *15
81Kev's Problemf7A *22
82John's Dynof6B+ **11
83Ramp Traversef6C *11
84The Beastief6A *7
85Bust My Chops LHf7A ***30
86Bust My Chopsf7A **33
87Bust My Chops RHf7A *38
88Bust Jeremy's Chopsf7A **12
89Treasuref7B *10
90Treasure Huntf7B *12
91Fool's Goldf7A+ *11
92Old Faithfulf5 *8
93Zig Zagf4 ***140
94Zig Zag SSf6C *60
95Zig Sit Start Super Lowf6C+ **13
96Zig Zag Variationf6A 15
97Pullover Traversef5+ 16
98Jeremy's Problemf6C+ **18
99Double Slopersf6A 24
100Treasure Trailf7B **3
101The Bampot Chopf6C+ *6
102Total Bampotf7A **5
103Bampot Aretef6B+ *35
104Bampot Traversef7A **25
105Fouk Yeef7B *3
106Fouk Yer Chops Kevf7C 3
107Tam's Route Sit Startf6A+ 6
108Tam's Routef5+ 20
109Tam's Route Original SSf7A 3
110Shadow
-
f7A+ **2
111The Story of the Hurricanef7A **1
112Trick of the Valef7B **2
113High Flyer
-
f6C 6
114Pressure
-
f8B  
115Firefight
-
f8B  
116Smokescreenf7C *4
117Firestarter
-
f8A ***16
118Gorilla
-
f6B ***125
119Gorilla Warfare
-
f7A+ **19
120Gorilla Hanging Start
-
f7A 32
121Neil's Extension/Gorilla SS
-
f7B+ ***27
122Silver Back
-
f7C ***27
123Silverback Aretef7C+ ***3
124King Kongf8A 13
125Cautious Lipf6B *27
126Mother Glasgow's Starlingsf7B+ *** 
127Shin Sekai
-
f6C+ *14
128Hoopf7C ***5
129Laddermanf7C **1
130Bingham's Wall
-
f7B+ **1
131Dressed for Success
-
f7B+ **5
132Dressed into Ford
-
f7C+  
133Dressed Reversed
-
f7B+  
134Supinator
-
f6A+ *24
135Supinator XLf6B+ 1
136The Legacyf6B+ 1
1372HB
-
f6A ***81
1382HB SSf6B 5
139A Ford Flash
-
f7B 1
140Ford Caprif7A+  
141Torino Sunf6B **27
142Oceans
-
f7C 5
143Sea Bedf8A ***2
1441990 Traversef7B *37
1452016 Traversef7B+ * 
146Snappyf6B+ **13
147Yappyf6B+ **9
148The Blue Meanief5 ***158
149PTO
-
f5 *140
 Warm-up Wall 
151Left Edge
-
f3 *231
152Tuesday Wallf3+ 34
153Fridays Fillf3 *308
154Friar's Mantlef4+ ***366
155Thursday Wallf5 46
156Ungavaf4+ 272
157Right Edgef3+ 205
158Warmup Wall Low Traversef5 159
 Home Rule 
160Orange Wallf6A 6
161The Beastf3 51
162The Brute
-
f4 14
163The Brute SSf5+ 4
164Valkyrie
-
f4+ 5
165Encore Une Foisf7A *8
166Pas Encoref5 *13
167Crimp!f6B+ 8
168More Chicken
-
f7A+ *1
169Head Buttf7A 17
170More Malkstizof7A **2
171Chicken Buttf7A+ **1
172Butt Headf7A+ 2
173Malky Traversef7B+ **13
174Daggerf7B+ **6
175Malky's Chickenf7B+ 4
176Malkiedf7C ***10
177Malkyf7B+ *44
178Malky Schmalkyf7C **3
179Dwellerf7B+  
180Dweller (Mugsy jug finish)f7A 1
181Set in Motionf7C+  
182Hokkuf8A * 
183Soshof8A+ ** 
184Spamf7C *19
185Glasgow Kissf7C+ ***6
186Spam Daggerf8A *7
187Mugsy Extensionf7B+ **9
188Mugsy Traversef7B ***57
189Mugsy Sit Startf7B **17
190Mugsy Staticf7A+ ***40
191Mugsy (Ya Bass)
-
f7A ***91
192Houston We Have a Problemf7B  
193Mestugsof7B **11
194Malky's Sleazy Chickenf8A ***2
195Thoroughbredf7C+ 10
196Nice and Sleazyf7C+ ***16
197Mugstizof7B+ ***14
198Mestizo Extensionf7B+ **10
199Mestizo Traverse
-
f7B **55
200Mestizo SS
-
f7A+ **73
201Mestizof6A ***131
202Mestizo 'Direct'
-
f7A 3
203Art Attackf7B 5
204Knowledge is Powerf7B+ ***3
205Physical Graffitif6B **81
206Nice and Sleazierf7C+ **4
207Eazy Sleazyf7C+ **1
208Home Rule
-
f6A **159
209Devolutionf6C **18
210Devo Maxf6C *7
211Spray Onf7B * 
212Home Rule Low Traversef7A+ *27
213Home Rule High Traversef6B **40
214Bob's Problem
-
f6A 10
215Presencef5+ *25
216Royale Beautyf6B *1
217Route RoyaleE3 5c 17
218Chicken Royalef6C 1
219Royal Aretef6B 1
220The WhipE2 5b **34
221The Whip SSf6C *32
222The Whip SS Directf6A+ *5
223The Switchf5 4
224Einherjarf6B+ *2
225Skin Deepf6B+ *3
226Valhallaf4 11
227The Beauty
-
f4 8
 Suckers Boulder 
229P.S.
-
f3 16
230Cave Routef6A 4
231Cave Route RHf6A+ 10
232Unnamed Toto Gallagher Eliminatef7A 8
233Toto
-
f6A ***229
234Toto SSf7A 89
235Toto Right Handf6C **20
236Totalledf7B **5
237Totalityf7B+ 13
238Totality Direct Finishf7A+ *21
239Toto Traversef7A+ 6
240The Shield
-
f7B+ ***29
241The Shield SS
-
f7C **6
242The Shield Right Hand
-
f7A+ *8
243The Shield Right Hand SSf7B *1
244Redpath's Problemf7B  
245Power Pockets
-
f6C *23
246Power Pockets SS
-
f7C * 
247Off The Railsf7A+ **1
248Railing
-
f6B+ **146
249Railings Extensionf6B+ ** 
250Snooker Shelf
-
f4 40
251Kneebar
-
f6A+ *13
252Mosca
-
f3+ 15
253Antimatterf4 3
254Suckers Slab
-
f4+ 15
255Volpone
-
f3 *41
256Smear Testf3 5
 B.N.I Boulder 
258Chahala Easy SS
-
f6A 3
259Chahalaf5+ **83
260Chahala SS
-
f8A+ 4
261Perfect Crimef8A+ *** 
262Perfect Crime Extensionf8B  
263The Serum of Sisyphusf8A+ ***1
264The Grand Tourf8B  
265Sanctionf8B ***1
266Gut Busterf8B+ *** 
267B.N.I. Direct Startf7B+ ***13
268Le Tour De Techniquef7B+ **8
269La Saboteurf8A+ ***4
270Sabotagedf8A ***2
271Sabotagef8A ***28
272The Elbow Basher
-
f7B+ 5
273Very Ape
-
f6C 1
274Good Nicks
-
f6B **51
275Good Nicks SS
-
f6C **17
276You're Nicked
-
f7B 2
277HPf6B+ 4
278Pendulum
-
f4 ***30
279RevelationE4 6a  
280NadjilationE6 6b ** 
281Sugar Rush
-
f7B  
282Harvester of Eyes
-
f3 19
283Astronomy
-
VB 26
284Gratis Ribf3+ 1
285Deo Gratis
-
f4+ *20
286Imposter Aretef3+ ***60
287B.N.I. Directf5+ 8
288B.N.I.
-
f5 ***13
 Pongo Boulder 
290Skint Cave Traversef6B+ 8
291Skint Knuckles
-
f4 *67
292Skint Sitter
-
f6C+ 4
293Slap Happy SSf7A 8
294Slap Happy
-
f7A **168
295Hap Slappy
-
f7B+ 39
296Slap Happy Dynof7C ***3
297Happy Slapf7C+ *7
298Paedo Bikinif7C *1
299In Bloom
-
f7C+ ***22
300In Bloom Aretef8A **1
301Mr Tickle Extensionf8A+ **1
302Mr Ticklef8A **1
303Pongo
-
f6C+ ***75
304Pongo True SSf8A ***22
305Pongo Jumpf7B 4
306Pongo Staticf7B+ 5
307Pongo Knucklef7C 4
308Supersize Mef8B  
309Rock Around the Bloc (Low)f6C *5
310Rock Around the Bloc (High)f6B *5
311Pongo Aretef7A+ **55
312The Dumbartonerf7B+ ** 
313Andy's Aretef7A **33
314Buzz Sawf7A+ 9
315Sorcerer's Slab
-
f3 59
316Magic Wand
-
f3+ 33
317Slant
-
f3 38
318Shothole SSf6A+ 10
319The Groovef4+ 6
320Nemesis Left
-
f4+ 3
321Nemesisf5 *99
322Nemesis SSf6B **21
323Nemesis SS Right
-
f6B+ 6
324Narcosisf5 *46
325Narcosis SSf6A *20
326Lunikf4+ *53
327Lunik SSf6A+ 10
328Rosie and Jimf5+ *16
329Cheddar Direct
-
f4+ ***169
330Cheddar Direct SSf6A 16
331Hard Cheddar Directf6A+ *9
332Hard Cheddar
-
f5+ ***224
333Hard Cheddar SSf6A 60
334Big Cheese
-
f7C+ **3
335Le Rustiquef7A **6
336Cheese-boredf7A *5
337The Jugs Don't Workf6B+ **15
338Juggie
-
f4 ***75
339The Ramp (Juggie Right)
-
f5 11
340Jugs are for Mugsf6B *3
341Phoenixf7A 7
342Consolidatedf7B+ ***53
343Consolidated Extensionf7C ***26
344Babybelf6C+ *6
 Sea Boulder 
346The Crackf3 13
347Short Wallf4+ 11
348White Streakf6B **90
349Steptoef3+ *156
350Red Streak
-
f6A 96
351Chowbok
-
f3+ **181
352Erewhonf4+ 180
353Tuesday Treat/Commercialismf6A 23
354Commercial Route
-
f4 **156
355Wednesday Wall
-
f4 90
356Silver's Route
-
f3+ *145
357Silver's Route SSf6C+ **10
358Silver Ribf3+ 8
359Silver Aretef6B 4
360Gardner's Girdlef4 ***71
 Triplets 
362Short Sight
-
f3+ 18
363Honestyf7A 10
364Reducer Arete Left
-
f5+ 9
365Reducer Arete
-
f6A 18
366Reducer
-
f7B 4
367Long Reach
-
f5+ 13
368Short Notice
-
f4+ 14
369Ivy Ribf5+ 4
370Ivy Traversef5 4
 Black Wall 
372The Niche Leftf5+ 7
373The Niche
-
f6A 6
374Black Wall Crackf5+ 23
375Black Wall Circuitf6A *16
376Easy Crackf3+ 8
377Mick Tf4+ 8
378Mick T SSf6A 7
 Everdry Wall 
380Longbow
-
E1 5b **99
381Longbow SS
-
f5+ 8
382The Slopersf7A 3
383Old Man's Cornerf6A 8
384The Matchf6B 4
385This Place is Shitf6A 13
386Liddell, Ha and Crombief6A+ 3
387Shattered Traverse Highf6C 87
388Shattered Traverse Lowf7B **19
 Circuits 
390JLS training circuitf6A 64
391Stone Country Yellow Circuitf5+ **1

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