UKC

Climbs 393
Rocktype Basalt

Faces NW

A very warm evening send of Physical Graffiti at Dumbarton Rock. © Jonathan Bean

Crag features

Glasgows best crag will test the strongest climbers with Chemin de Fer (E5) and Requiem (E8 6b) rated as Scotlands finest crack routes. Seven big boulders provide an excellent training ground. Scotland's first E9, Achemine, is here as well as Scotland's first Font 8a problem - Pongo (true sit start). [Stuart McNeil, Graham Foster]

Approach notes

From the car park a good path leads to the North Face and the Boulders.

Access Advice

Dumbarton Rock is a historic monument so do NOT climb into the castle grounds.

New resin bolts installed now installed "Bad Attitude" as well as "Half Breed" & "Unforgiven". The old rusty bolts will be chopped in due course.
JLS - 06/Oct/13
New resin bolts installed on Unforgiven and Halfbreed today. Treat with caution pending testing. Further bolt renewal on Halfbreed and Bad Attitude, as well as removal of the old bolts to follow.
JLS - 14/Sep/13
Online guide to Dumby with topos, gallery and videos can be found at: www.dumby.info
Jonathan Bean - 10/Jul/13
Dave Macleod's guide which was on scotlandonline (see above) has been moved to http://www.scottishoutdoors.co.uk/outdoors/dumbarton/intro.htm
gforce - 12/Jun/08
Bouldering with the giant imposing lines of Chemin de Fer (E5) and Requiem (E7) towering above is an experience not to be missed. You may find yourself spending a lot of time just gazing upwards at this sheer overhanging face. Longbow (E1) and Windjammer (HVS), just to the right, are great exercises in forced bridging, laybacking and jamming. Together with the graffiti, local kids, and River Clyde, Dumby is proper Glasgow hard stuff.
Paul Hutton - 31/Jul/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  North Face
2 Angel's Pavement f5  
3 Angel's Pavement Low f6A  
4 Beta
-
E1 5b 3
5 Antigrav E3 6a *  
6 Monsoon Gully
-
S 4b * 5
7 Nameless Crack
-
VD 1
  Gully Wall
9 Snowhite
-
E2 5b ** 8
  North-West Face
11 Route Three
-
HVS 5a * 13
12 Stonefall Crack
-
HVS 5a ** 82
13 Stonefall Crack Direct
-
HVS 5a 37
14 Payback Time! 7b+  
15 The Big Zipper
-
E3 5b ** 33
16 Woops E4 6a ** 5
17 Omerta 7c ** 22
18 Chemin de Fer E5 6a *** 25
19 Achemine E9 6c ***  
20 Cop Out
-
5.13c r **  
21 Rhapsody E11 7a 1
22 Direquiem
-
5.14a r **  
23 Unfinished Symphony 8b+ ** 1
24 Requiem
-
E8 6b *** 3
25 Requiem Direct Start E3 5b 1
26 Dumbarton Oaks (AKA La Dumby-Dumby Project) Project *** 2
27 Rock of Ages
-
E3 6a * 4
28 Persistence of Vision 7a+ *** 195
29 Eurovision 7a ** 16
30 Dumb and Dumber E7 6c **  
31 First Movement 6b+ ** 69
32 Abstract Movement 6b+ * 5
33 Abstract Art 6c ** 148
34 Cyclops
-
E5 6b * 1
35 Calm Before the Storm E6 6c *  
36 Dum Dum Boys
-
7c+ *** 7
37 Sufferance 8a *** 46
38 Endurance 8a ** 7
39 Suffix 8a ** 7
40 Persistance 8a * 2
41 Tarrier
-
8a ** 12
42 Tolerance 8b ** 2
43 Fever Pitch E4 5c ** 6
44 Fatso E4 5c *  
45 Negative Creep 8b 1
46 Appliance of Violence
-
7b+ ** 85
47 Gratuitous Violence 8a ** 1
48 Eh Gringo E4 5c *  
49 Desperado HVS 5a * 20
50 Blackout E6 6a ** 1
51 Windjammer
-
HVS 5a ** 121
52 Out on the Rigging HVS 5a 1
53 Bad Attitude
-
7b ** 46
54 Half Breed
-
7b ** 75
55 Unforgiven
-
7b *** 106
56 Friends in High Places E4 6a ** 2
57 Benny's Route Left-hand
-
7b 19
58 Benny's Route Right-hand
-
7c * 44
59 Natural Born Drillers 7a 84
  West Face
61 Dumbarton Chimney VS 4c 3
62 Easter Rib
-
S *** 16
63 Casanostra 6c+ * 10
64 Plunge
-
D *** 36
65 Sea Traverse/West Face Girdle f5+ 34
  Eagle Boulder
67 1920 Traverse VB 4a 25
68 Rankin's Bajin
-
VB 4a 83
69 Soixante Neuf
-
f3+ * 98
70 Pas Mal
-
f3 * 76
71 No.1 Route
-
f3+ * 106
72 Left Direct
-
f3 ** 97
73 Centre Direct
-
f4 * 101
74 Right Direct f3 51
75 No. 2 Route
-
VB 3a * 62
76 No. 2 Route SS f6B 11
77 Pullover
-
f5 * 146
78 No.2 Route Direct f4+ 52
79 Condor * V5 6c *  
80 Runs on Potato Power f7A * 14
81 Triple Bogey f6C 4
82 Double Bogey f6B * 14
83 Kev's Problem f7A * 20
84 John's Dyno f6B+ ** 11
85 Ramp Traverse f6C * 11
86 The Beastie f6A * 7
87 Bust My Chops LH f7A *** 28
88 Bust My Chops f7A ** 34
89 Bust My Chops RH f7A * 38
90 Bust Jeremy's Chops f7A ** 11
91 Treasure f7B * 12
92 Treasure Hunt f7B * 12
93 Fool's Gold f7A+ * 11
94 Old Faithful f5 * 9
95 Zig Zag f4 *** 150
96 Zig Zag SS f6C * 63
97 Zig Sit Start Super Low f6C+ ** 13
98 Zig Zag Variation f6A 15
99 Pullover Traverse f5+ 17
100 Jeremy's Problem f6C+ ** 18
101 Double Slopers f6A 26
102 Treasure Trail f7B+ ** 3
103 The Bampot Chop f6C+ * 6
104 Total Bampot f7A ** 4
105 Bampot Arete f6B+ * 37
106 Bampot Traverse f7A ** 26
107 Fouk Yee f7B * 4
108 Fouk Yer Chops Kev f7C 3
109 Tam's Route Sit Start f6A+ 8
110 Tam's Route f5+ 24
111 Tam's Route Original SS f7A 3
112 Shadow
-
f7A+ ** 2
113 The Story of the Hurricane f7A ** 1
114 Trick of the Vale f7B ** 2
115 High Flyer
-
f6C 8
116 Pressure
-
f8B 1
117 Firefight
-
f8B  
118 Smokescreen f7C * 6
119 Firestarter
-
f8A *** 4
120 Gorilla
-
f6B *** 133
121 Gorilla Warfare
-
f7A+ ** 21
122 Gorilla Warfare Hanging Start f7A+ ** 1
123 Gorilla Hanging Start
-
f7A 31
124 Neil's Extension/Gorilla SS
-
f7B+ *** 23
125 Silver Back
-
f7C *** 18
126 Silverback Arete f7C+ *** 3
127 Silverware V9 ** 2
128 King Kong f8A 9
129 Cautious Lip f6B * 27
130 Mother Glasgow's Starlings f7B+ ***  
131 Shin Sekai
-
f6C+ * 15
132 Hoop f7C *** 6
133 Ladderman f7C ** 2
134 Bingham's Wall
-
f7B+ ** 1
135 Dressed for Success
-
f7B+ ** 5
136 Dressed into Ford
-
f7C+  
Climb name Grade
137 Dressed Reversed
-
f7B+  
138 Supinator
-
f6A+ * 29
139 Supinator XL f6B+ 1
140 The Legacy f6B+ 1
141 2HB
-
f6A *** 77
142 2HB SS f6B 5
143 A Ford Flash
-
f7B 1
144 Ford Capri f7A+  
145 Torino Sun f6B ** 28
146 Oceans
-
f7C 5
147 Sea Bed f8A *** 2
148 1990 Traverse f7B * 35
149 2016 Traverse f7B+ *  
150 Snappy f6B+ ** 13
151 Yappy f6B+ ** 13
152 The Blue Meanie f5 *** 169
153 PTO
-
f5 * 152
  Warm-up Wall
155 Left Edge
-
f3 * 254
156 Tuesday Wall f3+ 44
157 Fridays Fill f3 * 334
158 Friar's Mantle f4+ *** 408
159 Thursday Wall f5 57
160 Ungava f4+ 296
161 Warm Up Wall Dyno Eliminate f6A 5
162 Right Edge f3+ 227
163 Warmup Wall Low Traverse f5 175
  Home Rule
165 Orange Wall f6A 6
166 The Beast f3 56
167 The Brute f4 13
168 The Brute SS f5+ 4
169 Valkyrie f4+ 6
170 Encore Une Fois f7A * 7
171 Pas Encore f5 * 14
172 Crimp! f6B+ 9
173 More Chicken
-
f7A+ * 2
174 Head Butt f7A 18
175 More Malkstizo f7A ** 2
176 Chicken Butt f7A+ ** 1
177 Butt Head f7A+ 2
178 Malky Traverse f7B+ ** 15
179 Dagger f7B+ ** 8
180 Malky's Chicken f7B+ 4
181 Malkied f7C *** 11
182 Malky f7B+ * 49
183 Malky Sit Start f7C 1
184 Malky Schmalky f7C ** 8
185 Dweller f7B+ 1
186 Dweller (Mugsy jug finish) f7A 5
187 Set in Motion f7C+  
188 Hokku f8A * 1
189 Sosho f8A+ **  
190 Spam f7C * 16
191 Glasgow Kiss f7C+ *** 6
192 Spam Dagger f8A * 9
193 Mugsy Extension f7B+ ** 12
194 Mugsy Traverse f7B *** 57
195 Mugsy Sit Start f7B ** 20
196 Mugsy Static f7A+ *** 43
197 Mugsly f7B+ 2
198 Mugslife f7C 1
199 Mugsy (Ya Bass)
-
f7A *** 92
200 Houston We Have a Problem f7B  
201 Mestugso f7B ** 12
202 Malky's Sleazy Chicken f8A *** 2
203 Thoroughbred f7C+ 11
204 Nice and Sleazy f7C+ *** 17
205 Mugstizo f7B+ *** 12
206 Mugstizo High f7B ** 1
207 Mestizo Extension f7B+ ** 12
208 Mestizo Traverse f7B ** 57
209 Mestizo SS f7A+ ** 74
210 Mestizo f6A *** 142
211 Mestizo 'Direct'
-
f7A 3
212 Art Attack f7B 5
213 Power Relation f7B 1
214 Knowledge is Power f7B+ *** 4
215 Physical Graffiti f6B ** 72
216 Nice and Sleazier f7C+ ** 4
217 Eazy Sleazy f7C+ ** 2
218 Home Rule
-
f6A ** 170
219 Devolution f6C ** 18
220 Devo Max f6C * 7
221 Spray On f7B *  
222 Home Rule Low Traverse f7A+ * 30
223 Home Rule High Traverse f6B ** 42
224 Bob's Problem
-
f6A 10
225 Presence f5+ * 28
226 Royale Beauty f6B * 1
227 Route Royale E3 5c 18
228 Chicken Royale f6C 2
229 Royal Arete f6B 2
230 The Whip E2 5b ** 37
231 The Whip SS f6C * 30
232 The Whip SS Direct f6A+ * 5
233 The Switch f5 4
234 Einherjar f6B+ * 2
235 Skin Deep f6B+ * 4
236 Valhalla f4 10
237 The Beauty f4 9
  Suckers Boulder
239 P.S.
-
f3 5a 19
240 Cave Route f6A 4
241 Cave Route RH f6A+ 11
242 Unnamed Toto Gallagher Eliminate f7A 9
243 Toto f6A *** 244
244 Toto SS f7A 84
245 Toto Right Hand f6C ** 18
246 Totalled f7B ** 6
247 Totality f7B+ 16
248 Totality Direct Finish f7A+ * 21
249 Toto Traverse f7A+ 6
250 The Shield f7B+ *** 28
251 The Shield SS f7C ** 6
252 The Shield Right Hand
-
f7A+ * 8
253 The Shield Right Hand SS f7B * 1
254 Redpath's Problem f7B  
255 Power Pockets
-
f6C * 24
256 Power Pockets SS
-
f7C *  
257 Off The Rails f7A+ ** 1
258 Railing
-
f6B+ ** 149
259 Railings Extension f6B+ **  
260 Snooker Shelf
-
f4 41
261 Kneebar
-
f6A+ * 14
262 Mosca f3+ 16
263 Antimatter f4 3
264 Suckers Slab f4+ 14
265 Volpone f3 * 48
266 Smear Test f3 6
  B.N.I Boulder
268 Chahala Easy SS
-
f6A 4
269 Chahala f5+ ** 94
270 Chahala SS
-
f8A+ 1
271 Perfect Crime f8A+ ***  
272 Perfect Crime Extension f8B  
Climb name Grade
273 The Serum of Sisyphus f8A+ *** 1
274 The Grand Tour f8B  
275 Sanction f8B *** 2
276 Gut Buster f8B+ ***  
277 B.N.I. Direct Start f7B+ *** 15
278 Le Tour De Technique f7B+ ** 9
279 La Saboteur f8A+ *** 4
280 Sabotaged f8A *** 2
281 Sabotage f8A *** 22
282 The Elbow Basher
-
f7B+ 6
283 Very Ape
-
f6C 1
284 Good Nicks
-
f6B ** 54
285 Good Nicks SS
-
f6C ** 17
286 You're Nicked f7B 2
287 HP f6B+ 4
288 Pendulum
-
f4 *** 33
289 Revelation E4 6a 1
290 Nadjilation E6 6b **  
291 Sugar Rush
-
f7B  
292 Harvester of Eyes
-
f3 21
293 Astronomy VB 32
294 Gratis Rib f3+ 3
295 Deo Gratis f4+ * 22
296 Imposter Arete f3+ *** 71
297 B.N.I. Direct f5+ 8
298 B.N.I.
-
f5 *** 14
  Pongo Boulder
300 Skint Cave Traverse f6B+ 9
301 Skint Knuckles
-
f4 * 71
302 Skint Sitter
-
f6C+ 6
303 Slap Happy SS f7A 9
304 Slap Happy f7A ** 171
305 Hap Slappy f7B+ 45
306 Slap Happy Dyno f7C *** 4
307 Happy Slap f7C+ * 9
308 Paedo Bikini f7C * 3
309 In Bloom f7C+ *** 16
310 In Bloom Arete f8A ** 1
311 Mr Tickle Extension f8A+ ** 1
312 Mr Tickle f8A ** 1
313 Pongo f6C+ *** 71
314 Pongo True SS f8A *** 13
315 Pongo Jump f7B 4
316 Pongo Static f7B+ 5
317 Pongo Knuckle f7C 4
318 Supersize Me f8B  
319 Rock Around the Bloc (Low) f6C * 5
320 Rock Around the Bloc (High) f6B * 5
321 Pongo Arete f7A+ ** 56
322 The Dumbartoner f7B+ **  
323 Andy's Arete f7A ** 31
324 Buzz Saw f7A+ 9
325 Sorcerer's Slab
-
f3 66
326 Magic Wand
-
f3+ 36
327 Slant
-
f3 40
328 Shothole SS f6A+ 11
329 The Groove f4+ 9
330 Nemesis Left
-
f4+ 5
331 Nemesis f5 * 111
332 Nemesis SS f6B ** 22
333 Nemesis SS Right
-
f6B+ 6
334 Narcosis f5 * 50
335 Narcosis SS f6A * 21
336 Lunik f4+ * 57
337 Lunik SS f6A+ 11
338 Rosie and Jim f5+ * 18
339 Cheddar Direct f4+ *** 188
340 Cheddar Direct SS f6A 21
341 Hard Cheddar Direct f6A+ * 13
342 Hard Cheddar
-
f5+ *** 245
343 Hard Cheddar SS f6A 65
344 Big Cheese
-
f7C+ ** 3
345 Le Rustique f7A ** 9
346 Cheese-bored f7A * 6
347 The Jugs Don't Work f6B+ ** 17
348 Juggie
-
f4 *** 83
349 The Ramp (Juggie Right)
-
f5 14
350 Jugs are for Mugs f6B * 6
351 Phoenix f7A 9
352 Consolidated f7B+ *** 50
353 Consolidated Extension f7C *** 27
354 Babybel f6C+ * 6
355 'Consoled' f7A+ 1
356 Solid f6C 2
357 ...Dated f7A+ 1
358 Embrace The Rock * V7 7a+ **  
359 Steak At Lunch * V3 6a+  
360 Amalgamated * f7C  
  Sea Boulder
362 The Crack f3 21
363 Short Wall f4+ 18
364 White Streak f6B ** 100
365 Steptoe f3+ * 170
366 Red Streak
-
f6A 102
367 Chowbok
-
f3+ ** 196
368 Erewhon f4+ 193
369 Tuesday Treat/Commercialism f6A 26
370 Commercial Route
-
f4 ** 165
371 Wednesday Wall f4 98
372 Silver's Route
-
f3+ * 153
373 Silver's Route SS f6C+ ** 11
374 Silver Rib f3+ 12
375 Silver Arete f6B 5
376 Gardner's Girdle f4 *** 75
  Triplets
378 Short Sight
-
f3+ 19
379 Honesty f7A 13
380 Reducer Arete Left
-
f5+ 11
381 Reducer Arete
-
f6A 22
382 Reducer
-
f7B 5
383 Long Reach
-
f5+ 15
384 Short Notice
-
f4+ 16
385 Ivy Rib f5+ 5
386 Ivy Traverse f5 6
  Black Wall
388 The Niche Left f5+ 8
389 The Niche
-
f6A 8
390 Black Wall Crack f5+ 23
391 Black Wall Circuit f6A * 20
392 Easy Crack f3+ 10
393 Mick T f4+ 9
394 Mick T SS f6A 8
  Everdry Wall
396 Longbow
-
E1 5b ** 100
397 Longbow SS
-
f5+ 10
398 The Slopers f7A 3
399 Old Man's Corner f6A 9
400 The Match f6B 4
401 This Place is Shit f6A 15
402 Liddell, Ha and Crombie f6A+ 3
403 Shattered Traverse High f6C 98
404 Shattered Traverse Low f7B ** 19
  Circuits
406 JLS training circuit f6A 6a 67
407 Stone Country Yellow Circuit f5+ ** 1
408 Steak *
-
VE  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers punkpunk and gurumed