Climbs 375
Rocktype Basalt

Faces NW

A very warm evening send of Physical Graffiti at Dumbarton Rock. © Jonathan Bean

Crag features

Glasgows best crag will test the strongest climbers with Chemin de Fer (E5) and Requiem (E8 6b) rated as Scotlands finest crack routes. Seven big boulders provide an excellent training ground. Scotland's first E9, Achemine, is here as well as Scotland's first Font 8a problem - Pongo (true sit start). [Stuart McNeil, Graham Foster]

Approach notes

From the car park a good path leads to the North Face and the Boulders.

Access Advice

Dumbarton Rock is a historic monument so do NOT climb into the castle grounds.

New resin bolts installed now installed "Bad Attitude" as well as "Half Breed" & "Unforgiven". The old rusty bolts will be chopped in due course.
JLS - 06/Oct/13
New resin bolts installed on Unforgiven and Halfbreed today. Treat with caution pending testing. Further bolt renewal on Halfbreed and Bad Attitude, as well as removal of the old bolts to follow.
JLS - 14/Sep/13
Online guide to Dumby with topos, gallery and videos can be found at: www.dumby.info
Jonathan Bean - 10/Jul/13
Dave Macleod's guide which was on scotlandonline (see above) has been moved to http://www.scottishoutdoors.co.uk/outdoors/dumbarton/intro.htm
gforce - 12/Jun/08
Bouldering with the giant imposing lines of Chemin de Fer (E5) and Requiem (E7) towering above is an experience not to be missed. You may find yourself spending a lot of time just gazing upwards at this sheer overhanging face. Longbow (E1) and Windjammer (HVS), just to the right, are great exercises in forced bridging, laybacking and jamming. Together with the graffiti, local kids, and River Clyde, Dumby is proper Glasgow hard stuff.
Paul Hutton - 31/Jul/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Main Crags 
2Beta
-
E1 5b 3
3AntigravE3 6a * 
4Monsoon Gully
-
S 4b *5
5Nameless Crack
-
VD 1
6Snowhite
-
E2 5b **7
7Route Three
-
HVS 5a *10
8Stonefall Crack
-
HVS 5a **71
9Stonefall Crack Direct
-
HVS 5a 28
10Payback Time!7b+  
11The Big Zipper
-
E3 5b **28
12WoopsE4 6a **4
13Omerta7c **25
14Chemin de FerE5 6a ***49
15AchemineE9 6c *** 
16Cop Out
-
5.13c r ** 
17RhapsodyE11 7a 19
18Direquiem
-
5.14a r ** 
19Unfinished Symphony8b+ **1
20Requiem
-
E8 6b ***2
21Requiem Direct StartE3 5b  
22Dumbarton Oaks (AKA La Dumby-Dumby Project)Project ***1
23Rock of Ages
-
E3 6a *4
24Dumb and DumberE7 6c ** 
25Persistence of Vision7a+ ***178
26First Movement6b+ **50
27Abstract Movement6b+ *4
28Abstract Art6c **122
29Cyclops
-
E5 6b *1
30Calm Before the StormE6 6c * 
31Dum Dum Boys
-
7c+ ***7
32Sufferance8a ***55
33Endurance8a **6
34Suffix8a **5
35Persistance8a *2
36Tarrier
-
8a **10
37Tolerance8b **2
38Fever PitchE4 5c **6
39FatsoE4 5c * 
40Negative Creep8b 1
41Appliance of Violence
-
7b+ **81
42Gratuitous Violence8a **1
43Eh GringoE4 5c * 
44DesperadoHVS 5a *16
45BlackoutE6 6a **1
46Windjammer
-
HVS 5a **119
47Out on the RiggingHVS 5a 1
48Bad Attitude
-
7b **36
49Half Breed
-
7b **65
50Unforgiven
-
7b ***96
51Friends in High PlacesE4 6a **1
52Benny's Route Left-hand
-
7b 17
53Benny's Route Right-hand
-
7c *32
54Natural Born Drillers7a 78
55Dumbarton ChimneyVS 4c 2
56Easter Rib
-
S ***22
57Casanostra6c+ *7
58Plunge
-
D ***39
 Eagle Boulder 
601920 TraverseVB 19
61Rankin's Bajin
-
VB 73
62Soixante Neuf
-
f3+ *87
63Pas Mal
-
f3 *69
64No.1 Route
-
f3+ *98
65Left Direct
-
f3 **88
66Centre Direct
-
f4 *93
67Right Directf3 46
68No. 2 Route
-
VB *54
69No. 2 Route SSf6B 12
70Pullover
-
f5 *139
71No.2 Route Directf4+ 48
72Runs on Potato Powerf7A *13
73Triple Bogeyf6C 4
74Double Bogeyf6B *13
75Kev's Problemf7A *21
76John's Dynof6B+ **11
77Ramp Traversef6C *11
78The Beastief6A *6
79Bust My Chops LHf7A ***30
80Bust My Chopsf7A **32
81Bust My Chops RHf7A *37
82Bust Jeremy's Chopsf7A **10
83Treasuref7B *10
84Treasure Huntf7B *12
85Fool's Goldf7A+ *11
86Old Faithfulf5 *8
87Zig Zagf4 ***137
88Zig Zag SSf6C *54
89Zig Sit Start Super Lowf6C+ **13
90Zig Zag Variationf6A 14
91Pullover Traversef5+ 15
92Jeremy's Problemf6C+ **16
93Double Slopersf6A 23
94Treasure Trailf7B **3
95The Bampot Chopf6C+ *5
96Total Bampotf7A **3
97Bampot Aretef6B+ *35
98Bampot Traversef7A **25
99Fouk Yeef7B *3
100Fouk Yer Chops Kevf7C 3
101Tam's Route Sit Startf6A+ 6
102Tam's Routef5+ 20
103Tam's Route Original SSf7A 3
104Shadow
-
f7A+ **2
105The Story of the Hurricanef7A **1
106Trick of the Valef7B **2
107High Flyer
-
f6C 6
108Pressure
-
f8B  
109Firefight
-
f8B  
110Smokescreenf7C *4
111Firestarter
-
f8A ***3
112Gorilla
-
f6B ***119
113Gorilla Warfare
-
f7A+ **19
114Gorilla Hanging Start
-
f7A 31
115Neil's Extension/Gorilla SS
-
f7B+ ***21
116Silver Back
-
f7C ***25
117Silverback Aretef7C+ ***3
118King Kongf8A 13
119Cautious Lipf6B *26
120Mother Glasgow's Starlingsf7B+ *** 
121Shin Sekai
-
f6C+ *13
122Hoopf7C ***5
123Laddermanf7C **1
124Bingham's Wall
-
f7B+ **1
125Dressed for Success
-
f7B+ **5
126Dressed into Ford
-
f7C+  
127Dressed Reversed
-
f7B+  
128Supinator
-
f6A+ *24
129Supinator XLf6B+ 1
130The Legacyf6B+ 1
1312HB
-
f6A ***69
1322HB SSf6B 5
133A Ford Flash
-
f7B 1
134Ford Caprif7A+  
135Torino Sunf6B **27
136Oceans
-
f7C 5
137Sea Bedf8A ***2
1381990 Traversef7B *34
1392016 Traversef7B+ * 
140Snappyf6B+ **13
141Yappyf6B+ **9
142The Blue Meanief5 ***154
143PTO
-
f5 *137
 Warm-up Wall 
145Left Edge
-
f3 *224
146Tuesday Wallf3+ 31
147Fridays Fillf3 *301
148Friar's Mantlef4+ ***356
149Thursday Wallf5 41
150Ungavaf4+ 264
151Right Edgef3+ 200
152Warmup Wall Low Traversef5 155
 Home Rule 
154Orange Wallf6A 6
155The Beastf3 48
156Beasted
-
f6B  
157The Brute
-
f4 12
158The Brute SSf5+ 4
159Valkyrie
-
f4+ 5
160Encore Une Foisf7A *6
161Pas Encoref5 *13
162Crimp!f6B+ 7
163More Chicken
-
f7A+ *1
164Head Buttf7A 14
165More Malkstizof7A **2
166Chicken Buttf7A+ **1
167Butt Headf7A+ 2
168Malky Traversef7B+ **13
169Daggerf7B+ **5
170Malky's Chickenf7B+ 4
171Malkiedf7C ***10
172Malkyf7B+ *42
173Dwellerf7B+  
174Dweller (Mugsy jug finish)f7A 1
175Set in Motionf7C+  
176Hokkuf8A * 
177Soshof8A+ ** 
178Spamf7C *19
179Glasgow Kissf7C+ ***6
180Spam Daggerf8A *7
181Mugsy Extensionf7B+ **9
182Mugsy Traversef7B ***55
183Mugsy Sit Startf7B **16
184Mugsy Staticf7A+ ***34
185Mugsy (Ya Bass)
-
f7A ***82
186Houston We Have a Problemf7B  
187Mestugsof7B **11
188Malky's Sleazy Chickenf8A ***2
189Thoroughbredf7C+ 9
190Nice and Sleazyf7C+ ***16
191Mugstizof7B+ ***14
192Mestizo Extensionf7B+ **9
193Mestizo Traverse
-
f7B **54
194Mestizo SS
-
f7A+ **71
195Mestizof6A ***128
196Mestizo 'Direct'
-
f7A 3
197Art Attackf7B 4
198Knowledge is Powerf7B+ ***3
199Physical Graffitif6B **77
200Nice and Sleazierf7C+ **4
201Eazy Sleazyf7C+ **1
202Home Rule
-
f6A **155
203Devolutionf6C **16
204Devo Maxf6C *7
205Spray Onf7B * 
206Home Rule Low Traversef7A+ *27
207Home Rule High Traversef6B **40
208Bob's Problem
-
f6A 9
209Presencef5+ *24
210Royale Beautyf6B *1
211Route RoyaleE3 5c 15
212Chicken Royalef6C 1
213Royal Aretef6B 1
214The WhipE2 5b **29
215The Whip SSf6C *30
216The Whip SS Directf6A+ *5
217The Switchf5 4
218Einherjarf6B+ *2
219Skin Deepf6B+ *3
220Valhallaf4 11
221The Beauty
-
f4 8
 Suckers Boulder 
223P.S.
-
f3 16
224Cave Routef6A 4
225Cave Route RHf6A+ 10
226Unnamedf7A 8
227Toto
-
f6A ***224
228Toto SSf7A 86
229Toto Right Handf6C **17
230Totalledf7B **4
231Totalityf7B+ 13
232Totality Direct Finishf7A+ *20
233Toto Traversef7A+ 5
234The Shield
-
f7B+ ***29
235The Shield SS
-
f7C **4
236The Shield Right Hand
-
f7A+ *8
237The Shield Right Hand SSf7B *1
238Redpath's Problemf7B  
239Power Pockets
-
f6C *21
240Power Pockets SS
-
f7C * 
241Off The Railsf7A+ **1
242Railing
-
f6B+ **143
243Railings Extensionf6B+ ** 
244Snooker Shelf
-
f4 40
245Kneebar
-
f6A+ *13
246Mosca
-
f3+ 13
247Antimatterf4 2
248Suckers Slab
-
f4+ 13
249Volpone
-
f3 *40
250Smear Testf3 4
 B.N.I Boulder 
252Chahala Easy SS
-
f6A 3
253Chahalaf5+ **82
254Chahala SS
-
f8A+  
255Perfect Crimef8A+ *** 
256Perfect Crime Extensionf8B  
257The Serum of Sisyphusf8A+ ***1
258The Grand Tourf8B  
259Sanctionf8B ***1
260Gut Busterf8B+ *** 
261B.N.I. Direct Startf7B+ ***13
262Le Tour De Techniquef7B+ **8
263La Saboteurf8A+ ***4
264Sabotagedf8A ***2
265Sabotagef8A ***26
266The Elbow Basher
-
f7B+ 5
267Very Ape
-
f6C 1
268Good Nicks
-
f6B **50
269Good Nicks SS
-
f6C **17
270You're Nicked
-
f7B 2
271HPf6B+ 4
272Pendulum
-
f4 ***28
273RevelationE4 6a  
274NadjilationE6 6b ** 
275Sugar Rush
-
f7B  
276Harvester of Eyes
-
f3 19
277Astronomy
-
VB 26
278Gratis Ribf3+  
279Deo Gratis
-
f4+ *20
280Imposter Aretef3+ ***60
281B.N.I. Directf5+ 5
282B.N.I.
-
f5 ***13
 Pongo Boulder 
284Skint Cave Traversef6B+ 8
285Skint Knuckles
-
f4 *64
286Skint Sitter
-
f6C+ 4
287Slap Happy SSf7A 8
288Slap Happy
-
f7A **159
289Hap Slappy
-
f7B+ 32
290Slap Happy Dynof7C ***3
291Happy Slapf7C+ *6
292Paedo Bikinif7C *1
293In Bloom
-
f7C+ ***22
294In Bloom Aretef8A **1
295Mr Tickle Extensionf8A+ **1
296Mr Ticklef8A **1
297Pongo
-
f6C+ ***62
298Pongo True SSf8A ***20
299Pongo Jumpf7B 4
300Pongo Staticf7B+ 5
301Pongo Knucklef7C 4
302Supersize Mef8B  
303Rock Around the Bloc (Low)f6C *4
304Rock Around the Bloc (High)f6B *5
305Pongo Aretef7A+ **53
306The Dumbartonerf7A ** 
307Andy's Aretef7A **33
308Buzz Sawf7A+ 9
309Sorcerer's Slab
-
f3 59
310Magic Wand
-
f3+ 33
311Slant
-
f3 37
312Shothole SSf6A+ 9
313The Groovef4+ 6
314Nemesis Left
-
f4+ 3
315Nemesisf5 *95
316Nemesis SSf6B **21
317Nemesis SS Right
-
f6B+ 6
318Narcosisf5 *45
319Narcosis SSf6A *20
320Lunikf4+ *53
321Lunik SSf6A+ 10
322Rosie and Jimf5+ *15
323Cheddar Direct
-
f4+ ***165
324Cheddar Direct SSf6A 16
325Hard Cheddar Directf6A+ *9
326Hard Cheddar
-
f5+ ***218
327Hard Cheddar SSf6A 59
328Big Cheese
-
f7C+ **3
329Le Rustiquef7A **6
330Cheese-boredf7A *5
331The Jugs Don't Workf6B+ **15
332Juggie
-
f4 ***72
333The Ramp (Juggie Right)
-
f5 11
334Jugs are for Mugsf6B *3
335Phoenixf7A 6
336Consolidatedf7B+ ***51
337Consolidated Extensionf7C ***22
338Babybelf6C+ *6
 Sea Boulder 
340The Crackf3 13
341Short Wallf4+ 11
342White Streakf6B **86
343Steptoef3+ *151
344Red Streak
-
f6A 96
345Chowbok
-
f3+ **173
346Erewhonf4+ 174
347Tuesday Treat/Commercialismf6A 23
348Commercial Route
-
f4 **152
349Wednesday Wall
-
f4 88
350Silver's Route
-
f3+ *141
351Silver's Route SSf6C+ **9
352Silver Ribf3+ 8
353Silver Aretef6B 4
354Gardner's Girdlef4 ***70
 Triplets 
356Short Sight
-
f3+ 18
357Honestyf7A 10
358Reducer Arete Left
-
f5+ 9
359Reducer Arete
-
f6A 18
360Reducer
-
f7B 4
361Long Reach
-
f5+ 12
362Short Notice
-
f4+ 13
363Ivy Ribf5+ 4
364Ivy Traversef5 4
365Sea Traverse/West Face Girdlef5+ 30
 Black Wall 
367The Niche Leftf5+ 6
368The Niche
-
f6A 5
369Black Wall Crackf5+ 22
370Black Wall Circuitf6A *15
371Easy Crackf3+ 7
372Mick Tf4+ 7
373Mick T SSf6A 6
 everdry wall 
375Longbow
-
E1 5b **98
376Longbow SS
-
f5+ 7
377The Slopersf7A 3
378Old Man's Cornerf6A 6
379The Matchf6B 3
380This Place is Shitf6A 11
381Liddell, Ha and Crombief6A+ 1
382Shattered Traverse Highf6C 78
383Shattered Traverse Lowf7B **19
 Circuits 
385JLS training circuitf6A 64
386Stone Country Yellow Circuitf5+ **1

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