UKC

Climbs 396
Rocktype Basalt

Faces NW

A very warm evening send of Physical Graffiti at Dumbarton Rock. © Jonathan Bean

Crag features

Glasgows best crag will test the strongest climbers with Chemin de Fer (E5) and Requiem (E8 6b) rated as Scotlands finest crack routes. Seven big boulders provide an excellent training ground. Scotland's first E9, Achemine, is here as well as Scotland's first Font 8a problem - Pongo (true sit start). [Stuart McNeil, Graham Foster]

Approach notes

From the car park a good path leads to the North Face and the Boulders.

Access Advice

Dumbarton Rock is a historic monument so do NOT climb into the castle grounds.

New resin bolts installed now installed "Bad Attitude" as well as "Half Breed" & "Unforgiven". The old rusty bolts will be chopped in due course.
JLS - 06/Oct/13
New resin bolts installed on Unforgiven and Halfbreed today. Treat with caution pending testing. Further bolt renewal on Halfbreed and Bad Attitude, as well as removal of the old bolts to follow.
JLS - 14/Sep/13
Online guide to Dumby with topos, gallery and videos can be found at: www.dumby.info
Jonathan Bean - 10/Jul/13
Dave Macleod's guide which was on scotlandonline (see above) has been moved to http://www.scottishoutdoors.co.uk/outdoors/dumbarton/intro.htm
gforce - 12/Jun/08
Bouldering with the giant imposing lines of Chemin de Fer (E5) and Requiem (E7) towering above is an experience not to be missed. You may find yourself spending a lot of time just gazing upwards at this sheer overhanging face. Longbow (E1) and Windjammer (HVS), just to the right, are great exercises in forced bridging, laybacking and jamming. Together with the graffiti, local kids, and River Clyde, Dumby is proper Glasgow hard stuff.
Paul Hutton - 31/Jul/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  North Face
2 Angel's Pavement f5  
3 Angel's Pavement Low f6A  
4 Beta
-
E1 5b 3
5 Antigrav E3 6a *  
6 Monsoon Gully
-
S 4b * 5
7 Nameless Crack
-
VD 1
  Gully Wall
9 Snowhite
-
E2 5b ** 8
  North-West Face
11 Route Three
-
HVS 5a * 13
12 Stonefall Crack
-
HVS 5a ** 83
13 Stonefall Crack Direct
-
HVS 5a 37
14 Payback Time! 7b+  
15 The Big Zipper
-
E3 5b ** 33
16 Woops E4 6a ** 5
17 Omerta 7c ** 22
18 Chemin de Fer E5 6a *** 33
19 Achemine E9 6c ***  
20 Cop Out
-
5.13c r **  
21 Rhapsody E11 7a 1
22 Direquiem
-
5.14a r **  
23 Unfinished Symphony 8b+ ** 1
24 Requiem
-
E8 6b *** 3
25 Requiem Direct Start E3 5b 1
26 Dumbarton Oaks (AKA La Dumby-Dumby Project) Project *** 2
27 Rock of Ages
-
E3 6a * 4
28 Persistence of Vision 7a+ *** 199
29 Eurovision 7a ** 17
30 Dumb and Dumber E7 6c **  
31 First Movement 6b+ ** 69
32 Abstract Movement 6b+ * 6
33 Abstract Art 6c ** 149
34 Cyclops
-
E5 6b * 1
35 Calm Before the Storm E6 6c *  
36 Dum Dum Boys
-
7c+ *** 7
37 Sufferance 8a *** 48
38 Endurance 8a ** 7
39 Suffix 8a ** 7
40 Persistance 8a * 2
41 Tarrier
-
8a ** 12
42 Tolerance 8b ** 2
43 Fever Pitch E4 5c ** 6
44 Fatso E4 5c *  
45 Negative Creep 8b 1
46 Appliance of Violence
-
7b+ ** 87
47 Gratuitous Violence 8a ** 1
48 Eh Gringo E4 5c *  
49 Desperado HVS 5a * 20
50 Blackout E6 6a ** 1
51 Windjammer
-
HVS 5a ** 121
52 Out on the Rigging HVS 5a 1
53 Bad Attitude
-
7b ** 46
54 Half Breed
-
7b ** 76
55 Unforgiven
-
7b *** 108
56 Friends in High Places E4 6a ** 2
57 Benny's Route Left-hand
-
7b 19
58 Benny's Route Right-hand
-
7c * 44
59 Natural Born Drillers 7a 84
  West Face
61 Dumbarton Chimney VS 4c 3
62 Easter Rib
-
S *** 16
63 Casanostra 6c+ * 10
64 Plunge
-
D *** 37
65 Sea Traverse/West Face Girdle f5+ 34
  Eagle Boulder
67 1920 Traverse VB 4a 25
68 Rankin's Bajin
-
VB 4a 84
69 Soixante Neuf
-
f3+ * 99
70 Pas Mal
-
f3 * 76
71 No.1 Route
-
f3+ * 107
72 Left Direct
-
f3 ** 98
73 Centre Direct
-
f4 * 102
74 Right Direct f3 51
75 No. 2 Route
-
VB 3a * 63
76 No. 2 Route SS f6B 11
77 Pullover
-
f5 * 147
78 No.2 Route Direct f4+ 55
79 Condor * V5 6c *  
80 Runs on Potato Power f7A * 14
81 Triple Bogey f6C 4
82 Double Bogey f6B * 14
83 Kev's Problem f7A * 20
84 John's Dyno f6B+ ** 11
85 Ramp Traverse f6C * 11
86 The Beastie f6A * 7
87 Bust My Chops LH f7A *** 31
88 Bust My Chops f7A ** 36
89 Bust My Chops RH f7A * 43
90 Bust Jeremy's Chops f7A ** 11
91 Treasure f7B * 12
92 Treasure Hunt f7B * 12
93 Fool's Gold f7A+ * 11
94 Old Faithful f5 * 9
95 Zig Zag f4 *** 150
96 Zig Zag SS f6C * 65
97 Zig Sit Start Super Low f6C+ ** 13
98 Zig Zag Variation f6A 15
99 Pullover Traverse f5+ 18
100 Jeremy's Problem f6C+ ** 18
101 Double Slopers f6A 27
102 Treasure Trail f7B+ ** 3
103 The Bampot Chop f6C+ * 6
104 Total Bamchop * f7A 1
105 Total Bampot f7A ** 4
106 Bampot Arete f6B+ * 37
107 Bampot Traverse f7A ** 26
108 Fouk Yee f7B * 4
109 Fouk Yer Chops Kev f7C 3
110 Tam's Route Sit Start f6A+ 8
111 Tam's Route f5+ 24
112 Tam's Route Original SS f7A 3
113 Shadow
-
f7A+ ** 2
114 The Story of the Hurricane f7A ** 1
115 Trick of the Vale f7B ** 2
116 High Flyer
-
f6C 8
117 Pressure
-
f8B 1
118 Firefight
-
f8B  
119 Smokescreen f7C * 6
120 Firestarter
-
f8A *** 4
121 Gorilla
-
f6B *** 135
122 Gorilla Warfare
-
f7A+ ** 21
123 Gorilla Warfare Hanging Start f7A+ ** 1
124 Gorilla Hanging Start
-
f7A 31
125 Neil's Extension/Gorilla SS
-
f7B+ *** 23
126 Silver Back
-
f7C *** 18
127 Silverback Arete f7C+ *** 3
128 Silverware V9 ** 2
129 King Kong f8A 9
130 Cautious Lip f6B * 28
131 Mother Glasgow's Starlings f7B+ ***  
132 Shin Sekai
-
f6C+ * 15
133 Hoop f7C *** 6
134 Ladderman f7C ** 2
135 Bingham's Wall
-
f7B+ ** 1
136 Dressed for Success
-
f7B+ ** 5
137 Dressed into Ford
-
f7C+  
Climb name Grade
138 Dressed Reversed
-
f7B+  
139 Supinator
-
f6A+ * 29
140 Supinator XL f6B+ 1
141 The Legacy f6B+ 1
142 2HB
-
f6A *** 77
143 2HB SS f6B 5
144 A Ford Flash
-
f7B 1
145 Ford Capri f7A+  
146 Torino Sun f6B ** 28
147 Oceans
-
f7C 5
148 Sea Bed f8A *** 2
149 1990 Traverse f7B * 36
150 2016 Traverse f7B+ *  
151 Snappy f6B+ ** 13
152 Yappy f6B+ ** 13
153 The Blue Meanie f5 *** 172
154 Green Meanie f5 4
155 PTO
-
f5 * 154
156 PTO Right Hand f4+ 4
  Warm-up Wall
158 Left Edge
-
f3 * 258
159 Tuesday Wall f3+ 45
160 Fridays Fill f3 * 338
161 Friar's Mantle f4+ *** 416
162 Thursday Wall f5 57
163 Ungava f4+ 300
164 Warm Up Wall Dyno Eliminate f6A 5
165 Right Edge f3+ 228
166 Warmup Wall Low Traverse f5 178
  Home Rule
168 Orange Wall f6A 7
169 The Beast f3 56
170 The Brute f4 13
171 The Brute SS f5+ 4
172 Valkyrie f4+ 6
173 Encore Une Fois f7A * 7
174 Pas Encore f5 * 14
175 Crimp! f6B+ 9
176 More Chicken
-
f7A+ * 2
177 Head Butt f7A 18
178 More Malkstizo f7A ** 2
179 Chicken Butt f7A+ ** 1
180 Butt Head f7A+ 2
181 Malky Traverse f7B+ ** 16
182 Dagger f7B+ ** 9
183 Malky's Chicken f7B+ 4
184 Malkied f7C *** 11
185 Malky f7B+ * 49
186 Malky Sit Start f7C 1
187 Malky Schmalky f7C ** 8
188 Dweller f7B+ 1
189 Dweller (Mugsy jug finish) f7A 5
190 Set in Motion f7C+  
191 Hokku f8A * 1
192 Sosho f8A+ **  
193 Spam f7C * 18
194 Glasgow Kiss f7C+ *** 6
195 Spam Dagger f8A * 9
196 Mugsy Extension f7B+ ** 12
197 Mugsy Traverse f7B *** 57
198 Mugsy Sit Start f7B ** 20
199 Mugsy Static f7A+ *** 48
200 Mugsly f7B+ 2
201 Mugslife f7C 1
202 Mugsy (Ya Bass)
-
f7A *** 92
203 Houston We Have a Problem f7B  
204 Mestugso f7B ** 12
205 Malky's Sleazy Chicken f8A *** 2
206 Thoroughbred f7C+ 11
207 Nice and Sleazy f7C+ *** 17
208 Mugstizo f7B+ *** 12
209 Mugstizo High f7B ** 2
210 Mestizo Extension f7B+ ** 12
211 Mestizo Traverse f7B ** 57
212 Mestizo SS f7A+ ** 79
213 Mestizo f6A *** 149
214 Mestizo 'Direct'
-
f7A 3
215 Art Attack f7B 5
216 Power Relation f7B 1
217 Knowledge is Power f7B+ *** 4
218 Physical Graffiti f6B ** 72
219 Nice and Sleazier f7C+ ** 4
220 Eazy Sleazy f7C+ ** 2
221 Home Rule
-
f6A ** 171
222 Devolution f6C ** 18
223 Devo Max f6C * 7
224 Spray On f7B * 1
225 Home Rule Low Traverse f7A+ * 31
226 Home Rule High Traverse f6B ** 43
227 Bob's Problem
-
f6A 10
228 Presence f5+ * 28
229 Royale Beauty f6B * 1
230 Route Royale E3 5c 18
231 Chicken Royale f6C 2
232 Royal Arete f6B 2
233 The Whip E2 5b ** 37
234 The Whip SS f6C * 30
235 The Whip SS Direct f6A+ * 5
236 The Switch f5 4
237 Einherjar f6B+ * 2
238 Skin Deep f6B+ * 4
239 Valhalla f4 11
240 The Beauty f4 10
  Suckers Boulder
242 P.S.
-
f3 5a 19
243 Cave Route f6A 4
244 Cave Route RH f6A+ 11
245 Unnamed Toto Gallagher Eliminate f7A 9
246 Toto f6A *** 251
247 Toto SS f7A 86
248 Toto Right Hand f6C ** 18
249 Totalled f7B ** 6
250 Totality f7B+ 16
251 Totality Direct Finish f7A+ * 21
252 Toto Traverse f7A+ 6
253 The Shield f7B+ *** 28
254 The Shield SS f7C ** 6
255 The Shield Right Hand
-
f7A+ * 10
256 The Shield Right Hand SS f7B * 2
257 Redpath's Problem f7B  
258 Power Pockets
-
f6C * 25
259 Power Pockets SS
-
f7C *  
260 Off The Rails f7A+ ** 1
261 Railing
-
f6B+ ** 149
262 Railings Extension f6B+ **  
263 Snooker Shelf
-
f4 41
264 Kneebar
-
f6A+ * 14
265 Mosca f3+ 16
266 Antimatter f4 3
267 Suckers Slab f4+ 14
268 Volpone f3 * 48
269 Smear Test f3 6
  B.N.I Boulder
271 Chahala Easy SS
-
f6A 4
272 Chahala f5+ ** 96
273 Chahala SS
-
f8A+ 1
274 Perfect Crime f8A+ ***  
Climb name Grade
275 Perfect Crime Extension f8B  
276 The Serum of Sisyphus f8A+ *** 1
277 The Grand Tour f8B  
278 Sanction f8B *** 2
279 Gut Buster f8B+ ***  
280 B.N.I. Direct Start f7B+ *** 15
281 Le Tour De Technique f7B+ ** 10
282 La Saboteur f8A+ *** 4
283 Sabotaged f8A *** 2
284 Sabotage f8A *** 23
285 The Elbow Basher
-
f7B+ 6
286 Very Ape
-
f6C 1
287 Good Nicks
-
f6B ** 54
288 Good Nicks SS
-
f6C ** 17
289 You're Nicked f7B 2
290 HP f6B+ 4
291 Pendulum
-
f4 *** 33
292 Revelation E4 6a 1
293 Nadjilation E6 6b **  
294 Sugar Rush
-
f7B  
295 Harvester of Eyes
-
f3 21
296 Astronomy VB 33
297 Gratis Rib f3+ 3
298 Deo Gratis f4+ * 23
299 Imposter Arete f3+ *** 72
300 B.N.I. Direct f5+ 8
301 B.N.I.
-
f5 *** 15
  Pongo Boulder
303 Skint Cave Traverse f6B+ 9
304 Skint Knuckles
-
f4 * 71
305 Skint Sitter
-
f6C+ 6
306 Slap Happy SS f7A 9
307 Slap Happy f7A ** 175
308 Hap Slappy f7B+ 45
309 Slap Happy Dyno f7C *** 4
310 Happy Slap f7C+ * 9
311 Paedo Bikini f7C * 3
312 In Bloom f7C+ *** 16
313 In Bloom Arete f8A ** 1
314 Mr Tickle Extension f8A+ ** 1
315 Mr Tickle f8A ** 1
316 Pongo f6C+ *** 72
317 Pongo True SS f8A *** 13
318 Pongo Jump f7B 4
319 Pongo Static f7B+ 5
320 Pongo Knuckle f7C 4
321 Supersize Me f8B  
322 Rock Around the Bloc (Low) f6C * 5
323 Rock Around the Bloc (High) f6B * 5
324 Pongo Arete f7A+ ** 56
325 The Dumbartoner f7B+ **  
326 Andy's Arete f7A ** 31
327 Buzz Saw f7A+ 9
328 Sorcerer's Slab
-
f3 66
329 Magic Wand
-
f3+ 36
330 Slant
-
f3 40
331 Shothole SS f6A+ 11
332 The Groove f4+ 9
333 Nemesis Left
-
f4+ 5
334 Nemesis f5 * 111
335 Nemesis SS f6B ** 22
336 Nemesis SS Right
-
f6B+ 6
337 Narcosis f5 * 50
338 Narcosis SS f6A * 21
339 Lunik f4+ * 57
340 Lunik SS f6A+ 11
341 Rosie and Jim f5+ * 18
342 Cheddar Direct f4+ *** 188
343 Cheddar Direct SS f6A 21
344 Hard Cheddar Direct f6A+ * 13
345 Hard Cheddar
-
f5+ *** 250
346 Hard Cheddar SS f6A 66
347 Big Cheese
-
f7C+ ** 3
348 Le Rustique f7A ** 9
349 Cheese-bored f7A * 6
350 The Jugs Don't Work f6B+ ** 17
351 Juggie
-
f4 *** 85
352 The Ramp (Juggie Right)
-
f5 14
353 Jugs are for Mugs f6B * 6
354 Phoenix f7A 10
355 Consolidated f7B+ *** 52
356 Consolidated Extension f7C *** 27
357 Babybel f6C+ * 6
358 'Consoled' f7A+ 3
359 Solid f6C 5
360 ...Dated f7A+ 3
361 Embrace The Rock * V7 7a+ **  
362 Steak At Lunch * V3 6a+  
363 Amalgamated * f7C  
  Sea Boulder
365 The Crack f3 21
366 Short Wall f4+ 18
367 White Streak f6B ** 100
368 Steptoe f3+ * 171
369 Red Streak
-
f6A 102
370 Chowbok
-
f3+ ** 198
371 Erewhon f4+ 196
372 Tuesday Treat/Commercialism f6A 26
373 Commercial Route
-
f4 ** 167
374 Wednesday Wall f4 98
375 Silver's Route
-
f3+ * 154
376 Silver's Route SS f6C+ ** 12
377 Silver Rib f3+ 12
378 Silver Arete f6B 5
379 Gardner's Girdle f4 *** 75
  Triplets
381 Short Sight
-
f3+ 19
382 Honesty f7A 13
383 Reducer Arete Left
-
f5+ 11
384 Reducer Arete
-
f6A 22
385 Reducer
-
f7B 5
386 Long Reach
-
f5+ 15
387 Short Notice
-
f4+ 16
388 Ivy Rib f5+ 5
389 Ivy Traverse f5 6
  Black Wall
391 The Niche Left f5+ 8
392 The Niche
-
f6A 8
393 Black Wall Crack f5+ 24
394 Black Wall Circuit f6A * 20
395 Easy Crack f3+ 10
396 Mick T f4+ 9
397 Mick T SS f6A 8
  Everdry Wall
399 Longbow
-
E1 5b ** 100
400 Longbow SS
-
f5+ 11
401 The Slopers f7A 3
402 Old Man's Corner f6A 9
403 The Match f6B 4
404 This Place is Shit f6A 15
405 Liddell, Ha and Crombie f6A+ 3
406 Shattered Traverse High f6C 98
407 Shattered Traverse Low f7B ** 20
  Circuits
409 JLS training circuit f6A 6a 67
410 Stone Country Yellow Circuit f5+ ** 1
411 Steak *
-
VE  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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