Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Robdog pulling round from the Crux on Seal © deejmonkey
A recently developed venue to be featured in a new Mid Wales guidebook.
An excellent location with a glorious outlook over cardigan bay. In fine weather expect to see plenty of dolphins and seals.
The jewel in the crown is undoubtedly Beaj Iskis HVS 5a***. Other great climbs include: The Day the Balloon Went Up S 4a**, Fate Loves the Fearless HVS 5a**, Round and Round Went the Great Big Wheel E2 5b***, Gorilla Warfare E3 5c**, Little Miss Sunshine E4 5c**, among many others.
Access to the island is via the path on the headland descending to sea level. This is shown in the interim guide. Care should be taken on this path if at all wet, as it will be tremendously slippery. There is also a stake on the end of the headland overlooking the gap between this and the island for an abseil.
*** The island is owned by the National Trust, and is NOT open access land. The island is also an SSSI.
East face of Lochtyn
A wonderful scenic location on the west Wales coast. The climbing is all traditional and quite adventurous. Climbing here is relatively new and while the owners (the National Trust) welcome climbing on these cliffs it's important to adhere to the agreed access restrictions and access advice to maintain the goodwill that exists. Locations and siting of belay stakes have been agreed between the BMC, local climbers and the National Trust - please do not add any more stakes here. Please contact the BMC if there is a need for addittional belay stakes.
Currently (January 2015) the only documented route information is in the Climbers's Club North Pembroke guidebook (Penbilis). For Ynys Lochtyn, a download is available from the Climber's Club website http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/shop/books/guidebook-downloads/
A new guidebook is anticipated in 2015.
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No guides found for this crag
|Stunning crag. Great setting, adventurous feel and brilliant rock. When climbing there we saw bottlenose dolphins and a killer whale!|
RyanOsborne - 25/May/15