Climbs 109
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)

Faces W

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Robdog pulling round from the Crux on Seal © deejmonkey

Crag features

A recently developed venue to be featured in a new Mid Wales guidebook.
An excellent location with a glorious outlook over cardigan bay. In fine weather expect to see plenty of dolphins and seals.

The jewel in the crown is undoubtedly Beaj Iskis HVS 5a***. Other great climbs include: The Day the Balloon Went Up S 4a**, Fate Loves the Fearless HVS 5a**, Round and Round Went the Great Big Wheel E2 5b***, Gorilla Warfare E3 5c**, Little Miss Sunshine E4 5c**, among many others.

Approach notes

Access to the island is via the path on the headland descending to sea level. This is shown in the interim guide. Care should be taken on this path if at all wet, as it will be tremendously slippery. There is also a stake on the end of the headland overlooking the gap between this and the island for an abseil.

*** The island is owned by the National Trust, and is NOT open access land. The island is also an SSSI.

East face of Lochtyn

Stunning crag. Great setting, adventurous feel and brilliant rock. When climbing there we saw bottlenose dolphins and a killer whale!
RyanOsborne - 25/May/15
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Lava Tree Wall
2 Lochtyn The Lava Tree
-
VS 4b 1
  Topple Blocks
4 Insect Inside
-
VS 4c 1
5 Lucky Bag
-
VS 5a 1
6 Under Fire
-
E2 5b 3
7 Shooting Pains
-
VS 4b 6
  Stormborn Walls
9 Piano Tuna
-
VD 2
10 Black Caviar
-
HS 4b * 2
11 Salmon en Route
-
HVS 5a ** 2
12 Tuna Hash (Mr Tickle finish) E3 6a * 4
13 Tuna Hash
-
E1 5b *  
14 Fish Fingers
-
E1 5b *  
15 Salt Water Cure
-
S 4a  
16 Creative Whiting
-
S 4a 2
17 Fate Loves the Fearless HVS 5a ** 3
18 Lemon Soul
-
HVS 5b * 1
19 Can You Tell What it is Yet?
-
VS 4c * 2
20 Paint it, Black
-
VS 4b 1
21 Black Snapper
-
E2 5b **  
22 Big Guns
-
E3 5c ** 1
23 Little Miss Sunshine
-
E4 5c ** 3
24 Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Climb
-
E4 6a ** 2
25 Lochtyn Syndrome
-
VS 4c * 9
26 Dawnsio Ar y Dibyn
-
HS 4a 2
27 Born of a Broken Man
-
S 4a 1
  Undercover Wall
29 About Time
-
HS 4b 3
30 Full Time
-
S 4a 4
31 The Last Time
-
HS 4b 10
32 Come in, Your Time is Up
-
VD 4a 7
33 Time on My Hands
-
S 4a 10
34 Time of Your Life
-
HS 4b 11
35 Out of Time (left hand finish)
-
E1 5a * 1
36 Out of Time
-
E2 5b * 5
37 Crack in Time VS 4b 4
  Yellow Wall
39 Dyddiau Melyn
-
VD  
40 Storm in a Sea Cup
-
VD  
Climb name Grade
41 Sgyl 'N' Crosbons
-
D  
42 Cae Melyn
-
VD  
43 Disruptive Elements
-
HS 4a  
44 Spirit in Motion
-
S 4a 2
45 High Finance
-
S 4a 2
46 Room at the Bottom
-
D  
47 Cwyn y Gwynt
-
D  
  Quartz Wall
49 Heavy the Beat of Weary Waves
-
S 4a * 16
50 Heavy the Beat of Weary Waves (direct start)
-
S 4a * 1
51 The Icing on the Cake
-
HVD 4
52 Heulwen Cwarts
-
E1 5a * 2
53 Something Nasty in the Vault
-
VS 4c 5
  Recessed Wall
55 Hiraethu
-
VD * 3
56 We Know our Onions
-
S 4a 2
57 Boots, Boots, Boots
-
VD  
58 West Coast Life
-
VD 1
59 All is Safely Gathered in
-
S 3c * 5
60 The Day the Balloon Went Up
-
S 4a ** 18
61 Round and Round Went the Great Big Wheel
-
E2 5b *** 10
62 Beaj Iskis HVS 5a *** 8
  Ocean Wall
64 Faeroes
-
E1 5b *  
65 Fastnet
-
E1 5a  
66 Malin
-
E2 5c  
67 Ocean Wild
-
VS 4c  
  Hidden Wall
69 The Deep End
-
VD * 5
70 Alone in the Deep
-
S 3
71 Into the Deep
-
VD 3
72 Deep Dark Ocean
-
HS 4b * 9
73 In Too Deep
-
VS 4c 5
74 Lost in the Deep
-
HVS 5a 3
75 Deep Blue
-
E1 5b * 6
76 Deep Blue indirect start
-
HVS 5a 2
77 Asleep in the Deep
-
VS 4b * 10
78 Deeply Dippy
-
VS 4c * 10
79 Menace from the Deep
-
VS 5a * 22
80 Menace from the deep direct finish
-
HVS 5a 3
Climb name Grade
81 How Deep is Your Love (left-hand start)
-
E1 5b ** 4
82 How Deep is Your Love
-
E1 5c ** 2
83 Skipper's Permission
-
HVS 5a * 1
84 Flight of the Concrete Puffins
-
E3 6a * 2
85 Seal
-
VS 4c * 20
86 Call of the Concrete Puffins
-
HS 4b * 22
87 Crab
-
S * 51
88 Keep Young and Beautiful
-
HVS 5a 11
89 When you've Got to Go
-
HS 4b 22
90 You, Me and JD
-
HS 4a 25
91 Llenwad
-
HVS 4b * 3
92 The Test
-
HVS 4c * 19
93 Saudade
-
S 4a 15
94 Branded
-
E1 5a 7
95 Sons of the Sea
-
E1 5a * 6
96 The Deadly Attachment
-
E1 5a 6
97 Helda Ransome
-
HVS 5a * 3
98 Man Hunt
-
HVS 5a * 9
99 War Dance
-
E2 5c * 8
100 Gorilla Warfare E3 5c ** 13
101 New Dads Army
-
E4 5c 4
102 Dolphin
-
VD 25
103 Only 'Purpoise' in Life * VS 4b * 2
104 The Loneliness of the Long Distance Walker * VS 5a * 4
105 Mother of Pearl * f5 **  
106 Sponge *
-
f2+ 3
107 Bluett *
-
f5 * 1
108 Hodges *
-
f2+ 2
109 Farthing *
-
f2 1
110 Yeatman *
-
f2+ 1
111 Turkey Dinner *
-
VS 5a 4
  DWS Wall
113 All White on the Night 5a * 2
114 Whitey 4a * 2
115 Whiteout 3c * 2
116 Blanco Rib 3a 3
117 Segregation 2c 2
118 UV and Me 4c 3
119 Choss or Die * XS 4b  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Sy Finch