Climbs 96
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)

Faces W

Robdog pulling round from the Crux on Seal © deejmonkey

Crag features

A recently developed venue to be featured in a new Mid Wales guidebook.
An excellent location with a glorious outlook over cardigan bay. In fine weather expect to see plenty of dolphins and seals.

The jewel in the crown is undoubtedly Beaj Iskis HVS 5a***. Other great climbs include: The Day the Balloon Went Up S 4a**, Fate Loves the Fearless HVS 5a**, Round and Round Went the Great Big Wheel E2 5b***, Gorilla Warfare E3 5c**, Little Miss Sunshine E4 5c**, among many others.

Approach notes

Access to the island is via the path on the headland descending to sea level. This is shown in the interim guide. Care should be taken on this path if at all wet, as it will be tremendously slippery. There is also a stake on the end of the headland overlooking the gap between this and the island for an abseil.

*** The island is owned by the National Trust, and is NOT open access land. The island is also an SSSI.

East face of Lochtyn

Restricted Access

A wonderful scenic location on the west Wales coast. The climbing is all traditional and quite adventurous. Climbing here is relatively new and while the owners (the National Trust) welcome climbing on these cliffs it's important to adhere to the agreed access restrictions and access advice to maintain the goodwill that exists. Locations and siting of  belay stakes have been agreed between the BMC, local climbers and the National Trust - please do not add any more stakes here. Please contact the BMC if there is a need for addittional belay stakes.

Currently (January 2015) the only documented route information is in the Climbers's Club North Pembroke guidebook (Penbilis). For Ynys Lochtyn, a download is available from the Climber's Club website http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/shop/books/guidebook-downloads/

A new guidebook is anticipated in 2015.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

  1. Narayan Ghale Buttress:   No climbing on the extreme southern end of the buttress between March 1st to July 31st inclusive due to nesting herring gulls. Principally this affects the following rock climbs only: Sherry Party, Bargain Hunt and Bica Ridge. All other climbs further north on Narayan Ghale Buttress - from and including Dead Man Walking - are unaffected by this seasonal restriction.
  2. Ynys Lochtyn: No climbing on thecliffs south of the Topple Blocks Area on the east side of the island between March 1st to July 31st inclusive due to nesting birds. Additionally, climbers are strongly advised to avoid climbing in the Topple Blocks Area itself during this period if their presence causes any unnecessary disturbance to nesting birds on the seasonally restricted cliffs 100 metres to the south.
  3. Pentrwyn Lochtyn: No climbing on thecliffs between the Ynys Lochtyn low tide scramble descent path and Traeth yr Ynys on the East side of the headland between March 1st to July 31st inclusive due to nesting choughs. (To date, this area has not been developed for climbing due to loose rock and cliff instability and for this reason, future development is extremely unlikely. This seasonal restriction is therefore for precautionary purposes only.

Guidebooks

No guides found for this crag

Stunning crag. Great setting, adventurous feel and brilliant rock. When climbing there we saw bottlenose dolphins and a killer whale!
RyanOsborne - 25/May/15
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Lava Tree Wall
2 Lochtyn The Lava Tree
-
VS 4b 1
  Topple Blocks
4 Insect Inside
-
VS 4c 1
5 Lucky Bag
-
VS 5a 1
6 Under Fire
-
E2 5b 3
7 Shooting Pains
-
VS 4b 6
  Stormborn Walls
9 Piano Tuna
-
VD 2
10 Black Caviar
-
HS 4b * 1
11 Salmon en Route
-
HVS 5a ** 2
12 Tuna Hash (Mr Tickle finish) E3 6a * 4
13 Tuna Hash
-
E1 5b *  
14 Fish Fingers
-
E1 5b *  
15 Salt Water Cure
-
S 4a  
16 Creative Whiting
-
S 4a 2
17 Fate Loves the Fearless HVS 5a ** 3
18 Lemon Soul
-
HVS 5b * 1
19 Can You Tell What it is Yet?
-
VS 4c * 2
20 Paint it, Black
-
VS 4b 1
21 Black Snapper
-
E2 5b **  
22 Big Guns
-
E3 5c ** 1
23 Little Miss Sunshine
-
E4 5c ** 3
24 Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Climb
-
E4 6a ** 2
25 Lochtyn Syndrome
-
VS 4c * 9
26 Dawnsio Ar y Dibyn
-
HS 4a 2
27 Born of a Broken Man
-
S 4a  
  Undercover Wall
29 About Time
-
HS 4b 3
30 Full Time
-
S 4a 4
31 The Last Time
-
HS 4b 9
32 Come in, Your Time is Up
-
VD 4a 7
33 Time on My Hands
-
S 4a 8
34 Time of Your Life
-
HS 4b 10
35 Out of Time (left hand finish)
-
E1 5a * 1
36 Out of Time
-
E2 5b * 5
37 Crack in Time VS 4b 4
  Yellow Wall
39 Dyddiau Melyn
-
VD  
40 Storm in a Sea Cup
-
VD  
41 Sgyl 'N' Crosbons
-
D  
42 Cae Melyn
-
VD  
43 Disruptive Elements
-
HS 4a  
44 Spirit in Motion
-
S 4a  
45 High Finance
-
S 4a  
46 Room at the Bottom
-
D  
47 Cwyn y Gwynt
-
D  
  Quartz Wall
49 Heavy the Beat of Weary Waves
-
S 4a * 11
50 Heavy the Beat of Weary Waves (direct start)
-
S 4a * 1
51 The Icing on the Cake
-
HVD 5
52 Heulwen Cwarts
-
E1 5a * 1
53 Something Nasty in the Vault
-
VS 4c 5
  Recessed Wall
55 Hiraethu
-
VD * 2
56 We Know our Onions
-
S 4a 2
57 Boots, Boots, Boots
-
VD  
58 West Coast Life
-
VD 1
59 All is Safely Gathered in
-
S 3c * 5
60 The Day the Balloon Went Up
-
S 4a ** 12
61 Round and Round Went the Great Big Wheel
-
E2 5b *** 6
62 Beaj Iskis HVS 5a *** 7
  Ocean Wall
64 Faeroes
-
E1 5b *  
65 Fastnet
-
E1 5a  
66 Malin
-
E2 5c  
67 Ocean Wild
-
VS 4c  
  Hidden Wall
69 The Deep End
-
VD * 5
70 Alone in the Deep
-
S  
71 Into the Deep
-
VD 3
72 Deep Dark Ocean
-
HS 4b * 8
73 In Too Deep
-
VS 4c 5
74 Lost in the Deep
-
HVS 5a 3
75 Deep Blue
-
E1 5b * 3
76 Asleep in the Deep
-
VS 4b * 4
77 Deeply Dippy
-
VS 4c * 5
78 Menace from the Deep
-
VS 5a * 16
79 How Deep is Your Love (left-hand start)
-
E1 5b ** 3
80 How Deep is Your Love
-
E1 5c ** 2
81 Skipper's Permission
-
HVS 5a * 1
82 Flight of the Concrete Puffins
-
E3 6a * 2
83 Seal
-
VS 4c * 11
84 Call of the Concrete Puffins
-
HS 4b * 10
85 Crab
-
S * 30
86 Keep Young and Beautiful
-
HVS 5a 9
87 When you've Got to Go
-
HS 4b 11
88 You, Me and JD
-
HS 4a 16
89 The Test
-
HVS 4c * 15
90 Saudade
-
S 4a 5
91 Branded
-
E1 5a 7
92 Sons of the Sea
-
E1 5a * 5
93 The Deadly Attachment
-
E1 5a 5
94 Man Hunt
-
HVS 5a * 10
95 War Dance
-
E2 5c * 9
96 Gorilla Warfare E3 5c ** 12
97 New Dads Army
-
E4 5c 4
98 Dolphin
-
VD 14
  DWS Wall
100 All White on the Night 5a * 2
101 Whitey 4a * 2
102 Whiteout 3+ * 2
103 Blanco Rib 3 3
104 Segregation 2+ 2
105 UV and Me 4c 2

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