Climbs 75
Rocktype Basalt
Altitude 264m a.s.l
Faces W

Dissapearing into the cave © Badam

Crag features

A unique outcrop with inspirational views down Loch Lomond.

It Catches the sun on all outward facing buttresses from midday which dries them quickly. Some routes are loose and most are steep. Belays can be difficult as can reaching them which makes top-roping difficult.

Approach notes

From the Queens View car park a 40 minute walk following a muddy track past a rocky step leads to the crag.

Guidebooks

Great views, mediocre climbing. Not bad if you're leading HS but not worth the walk otherwise.
Fiend - 02/Aug/12
Rock fall on cave crack
Owain - 23/Apr/11
Very Very Nice venue, amazing views down loch lomond and gets the sun on pretty much every face from just after Midday. Really surprised to see no other climbers there. Loads of family though so care needed not to take them out with falling climbers(we gave them a good show and hopefully insperation), ropes, or the wee bit of lose at the top of the crags.
andymoin - 18/Apr/11
The climbs above don't seem to be in the right order according to Lowland Outcrops (2004).
Mr G - 06/Jan/11
Just visited the whangiwe for first time and would disagree about the low protection for beginners. Some routes are bad yes, but there is classic climbs there which are very safe, Ivy crack and backstep chimney are very stable climbs with great gear placements possible in evey section aswell as easy grove and easy chimney. Any beginner climber who feels competent enough with gear placement should visit for these climbs alone.
colinerees - 14/Sep/09
first time there and i broke backstep chimney,and it broke me a wee bit too see the photos,but climed a few pitches before lack of blood forced me back to the car park ( beware of loose rock by the way )
anderson405 - 26/Aug/07
In contrast to the above comments, I would not recommend the Whangie for beginners. There is not much gear on the easier routes (or the hard routes for that matter!), there is much loose rock and recommended routes like the Vampire (VS) are actually hard for the grade. Ivy crack is brilliant but had for the grade I think, though the pro is superb. If attempting Vampire, ensure you can hand and fist jamb 1st! Beginners are better served at places such as Rosyth Quarry or Aberdour.
Doughboy - 25/Jul/05
Been about 3 times to the Whangie, very exposed (except passage between rocks!) Decent for bouldering BUT much of the climbs have loose crumbly rock! Good place for beginers & experienced climbers, good climbing possiblities, about a 40 minute walk form car park, its worth a visit!
Jay Jay - 23/Jan/03
Found myself stranded atop several pinnacles and outcrops after some rather enthusiastic \'bouldering\'. A few hairy moments when some of the rock felt no more substantial than a hardended piece of polysterene. That said, limitless possibilities and exciting climbs.
Grant - 22/Jul/02
Found myself stranded atop several pinnacles and outcrops after some rather enthusiastic \'bouldering\'. A few hairy moments when some of the rock feels no more substantial than a hardended piece of polysterene. That said, limitless possibilities and exciting climbs.
Grant - 22/Jul/02
Excellent routes for those starting out climbing are Vampire Crack (VS), Ivy Crack (HS) and Backstep chimney (HS). these routes plus the fantastic outlook over Loch Lomond and the S. Highlands make it worthwhile to go to this crag. Beware, you are taking your life in your hands with many of the chossier lines though.
wee Davie - 22/Mar/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Gendarme
2 Spider slab S 4a 14
3 Blaeberry Crack
-
VD 20
4 Mossy Slab, Left
-
D 11
5 Mossy Slab, Right
-
S * 14
6 Staircase Crack
-
M 33
7 The Bulge HS 4b * 9
8 Bird's Nest
-
VD *** 52
9 Red Crack
-
VD 24
10 Windswept wall S 4a 7
11 Upturned Flake HVS 5a * 2
12 Angel Direct HVS 5a * 1
13 Heartbreak Corner E1 5b ** 24
14 Knife Edge E2 5b 10
15 Hangover Overhang
-
VS 4b 12
16 Trench wall VD * 36
17 Barrowland Bulge S 4a 15
18 Backsnapper crack VD 17
19 Gendarmerie S 4a 1
  Number One Face
21 Triangle VS 4c * 26
22 Recess Route
-
VS 4c 13
23 Cave Crack
-
VS 4c 12
24 Sou' west rib VD 5
25 Snowy Traverse
-
HS 4a 4
26 Cave Chimney
-
VD * 89
27 Easy Chimney
-
D 39
28 Easy Wall
-
VD 23
29 Easy Groove
-
D 77
30 Vampire Crack
-
VS 4c ** 101
31 Ivy Crack HS 4b *** 169
32 Backstep Chimney
-
HS 4b ** 157
33 Hedgehog E2 5c * 5
34 Curving Crack HVS 5a *** 42
35 Sloping Ledge HS 4b * 19
36 Overhanging Cleft
-
HVS 5a * 14
37 Rowan Rib
-
VS 4c ** 8
38 Sunshine Crack
-
VS 4c * 9
  Number Two Face
40 Militant Tendency E1 5a 1
41 Ruth's Route
-
VS 4c ** 12
42 Whippenwoof Wall
-
S 4a * 7
43 Fallen Tree Groove S 4a * 5
44 Young's Route
-
S 4a * 7
45 Needle Route
-
M 5
46 Novice Overhang
-
D 4
  Boulder Problems
48 Andy Bloc f5+ * 2
49 Fingaripper f6B 1
50 Mano A Guano f5+  
51 Angel Wall f6A ** 1
52 Andy's Lip f6A+ * 2
53 Rune Wall f6A+ * 2
54 The Crack f6B+ * 1
55 Whangie Traverse f6C+ *** 3

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