UKC

Climbs 28
Rocktype Quartzite
Altitude 340m a.s.l
Faces S

Crag features

First climbed on extensively in the 1950s and recently further developed, this fine little single-pitch gritstone outcrop has routes ranging from D - E1. The best climbing is on the Lower Tier, which has good friction and protection. The crag has been neglected for many years and is in need of more traffic. Full details of all climbs are in the new Central Wales - Elenydd guidebook.

Approach notes

Not approachable from directly below. The complex approach is fully described in the new guidebook.
 

Access Advice

The crag is NOT on CROW (open access) land and there are NO public rights of way leading to the crag. Access is via a long-disused quarry. The quarry is also not on open access land and there are no public rights of way either leading to, or within, the quarry; access is therefore entirely at the discretion of the landowner. There is no access agreement but, to date, occasional visits by climbers appear to be tolerated.

It should be appreciated that this status quo can change at any time and the crag’s inclusion on this database does not infer that climbers have any right whatsoever to climb on it. If challenged, climbers must take heed of any instructions to leave the area, remain respectful and avoid any confrontation with the landowner, their agent or representative. It goes without saying that climbers must also ensure that they avoid damaging fences, gates or any other structures.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Upper Tier
2 Y Saeth
-
VD  
3 Arrow Buttress
-
VD  
4 Arrow Chimney
-
M  
5 I'm Free!
-
HVS 4c 1
6 Mrs Slocombe's Prickly Thicket
-
VS 4b  
7 Has Anyone Seen my Pussy?
-
S 4a  
8 Kite Wall
-
S 4a  
9 Buzzard Wall
-
S 4a  
10 Sparrow Wall
-
S 4a  
Climb name Grade
11 Grace and Favour
-
VD  
12 Shirley's Brahms
-
S 4a  
  Lower Tier
14 The Prickly Captain Peacock
-
VD  
15 Wall Climb Route 1
-
S 4a  
16 Wall Climb Route 2
-
S 4a  
17 Traverse of the Yobs
-
VS 4c  
18 Thirty Three Tears
-
HVS 5a 1
19 Are You Being Served?
-
E1 5b * 1
20 Bramble Buttress
-
VS 4c  
Climb name Grade
21 Gwyn dy Fyd
-
VS 4c ** 3
22 Crych Du Crack
-
E1 5b  
23 Dead Flowers
-
E1 5b ** 1
24 The Ginger Scrubber
-
E1 5b  
25 Tower Face
-
VS 4c  
26 Tower Chimney
-
VS 4c * 1
27 Tower Crack
-
S 4b 1
28 Prickles
-
S  
29 Fledgling Wall
-
D  
30 Somersault
-
VD  

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