UKC

Climbs 25
Rocktype Shale
Altitude 400m a.s.l
Faces W

Crag features

A large crag, comprised of several vegetated buttresses which is also a very long-established and regionally important peregrine and merlin nesting site - so the usual caveats/ restrictions apply during the nesting season. The cliff is of historic importance, with many single and multi-pitch trad routes dating from the early 1950s, most of which were climbed by the famous Irish mountaineer Joss Lynam and his wife Nora during the halcyon summer of 1952. Further development occured in 2016.

See the new Central Wales - Elenydd guidebook for further information.

Approach notes

The crag is on access land and consequently there are no access restrictions but STRICTLY NO CLIMBING DURING THE PEREGRINE AND MERLIN BREEDING/ NESTING SEASON - normally 1st Feb. - 31st July. Outside these dates, please apply common sense if birds are present and appear seriously alarmed by your presence. If you suspect that there is a peregrine or merlin nesting on the crag, then please climb elsewhere.

See the new guidebook for approach details.

Restricted Access

The crag is on access land and consequently there are no access restrictions but STRICTLY NO CLIMBING DURING THE PEREGRINE AND MERLIN BREEDING/ NESTING SEASON - normally 1st Feb. - 31st July. Outside these dates, please apply common sense if birds are present and appear seriously alarmed by your presence. If you suspect that there is a peregrine or merlin nesting on the crag, then please climb elsewhere.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Red Gully
2 Fandango
-
S 1
3 Pizzicato
-
S  
  North Buttress
5 Triumvirate
-
VS 4b  
6 Trigonometry
-
VD  
7 Larceny
-
D  
8 Orion's Belt
-
S  
  Second Side Wall
10 Clio's Eyebrow
-
E2 5b  
11 Totally Radnorshire Man
-
E1 5b  
12 Ne Touchez Pas le Bloc
-
VS 4b  
Climb name Grade
  The Tower
14 The Spirit of '52
-
VS 4c  
15 Climax S 4b * 1
16 The Vinegar Stroke
-
HVS 5a  
17 Still Black Water
-
E2 5b  
  Central Buttress
19 Pilaster
-
S  
20 The Larch Ascending
-
HVS 5a  
21 Citizen Caned
-
VS 5a  
22 Cain
-
VS 4c  
  South Buttress
24 Hawk's Nest Chimney
-
VD  
Climb name Grade
25 Diminuendo
-
D  
  Triptych Buttress
27 Adam
-
VS 4b *  
28 Eve
-
D  
29 The Serpent
-
D  
  Temple of Isis
31 Osiris
-
VD  
32 Eve's Girdle
-
VS  
  Great Gully
34 Concerto
-
VD  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Dave Williams