Climbs 24
Rocktype Greenstone
Altitude 10m a.s.l
Faces W

Henry Castle on the classic Right Angle © mountaindavet

Crag features

Exposure and commitment are the bywords at this huge expanse of blackish stone. Best known for the three-pitch Right Angle (HS 4b), a contender for the best sub-HVS climb anywhere. Other worthwhile routes include Behemoth (E2), Mastodon (E3) and Art of the Slate (E6 6a) - a Mark Edwards route that has won its deserved status now its bolts are gone.

Approach notes

Tidal - base of routes on Right Angle Cliff accessible for two hours either side of low tide. Seriously affected by swells.

There is limited (tolerated) parking at and near the Gurnard's Head Hotel on the B3306 (St Ives-St Just), and in Treen (off the B3306).

Follow the lane leading seawards to a row of old coastguard houses. A right of way leads over a stile: follow this for half a mile (keep to edges of fields) to the neck of the headland.

Most routes require abseil access - be sure you have got the tides right and know where you're going.

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West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Behemoth will rarely come in to condition. You need low tide and very little swell (under 3ft)and if the sun is needed to dry it your ascent will be after 6pm.
Kafoozalem - 26/Mar/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Right Angle Zawn 
 Climbs starting up Right Angle 
3Right AngleHS 4b ***635
4Right Angle (VS 4b variation)VS 4b ***68
5Surf Wall
S 6
6Rota Guta
S 1
7The KrakenHVS 5a 6
8Pure JuiceE1 5b 2
 Climbs starting from the Cave 
10BehemothE2 5c **65
E4 6a **2
 Climbs reached from the region of Shark 
13MastodonE3 5c ***73
14Black MagicE2 5b **24
15SharkE1 5b *22
16Tropospheric ScatterE4 5c **7
17ProbeS 5
 Miscellaneous routes 
19No AngleVD 1
20If Blue Were BlueS 4a 1
21Left Angle
E2 5b 1
22Off Pat
E1 5b 1
23The Cheek
E4 5c 1

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