Climbs 24
Rocktype Greenstone
Altitude Tidal
Faces W

Henry Castle on the classic Right Angle © mountaindavet

Crag features

Exposure and commitment are the bywords at this huge expanse of blackish stone. Best known for the three-pitch Right Angle (HS 4b), a contender for the best sub-HVS climb anywhere. Other worthwhile routes include Behemoth (E2), Mastodon (E3) and Art of the Slate (E6 6a) - a Mark Edwards route that has won its deserved status now its bolts are gone.

Approach notes

Tidal - base of routes on Right Angle Cliff accessible for two hours either side of low tide. Seriously affected by swells.

There is limited (tolerated) parking at and near the Gurnard's Head Hotel on the B3306 (St Ives-St Just), and in Treen (off the B3306).

Follow the lane leading seawards to a row of old coastguard houses. A right of way leads over a stile: follow this for half a mile (keep to edges of fields) to the neck of the headland.

Most routes require abseil access - be sure you have got the tides right and know where you're going.

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Behemoth will rarely come in to condition. You need low tide and very little swell (under 3ft)and if the sun is needed to dry it your ascent will be after 6pm.
Kafoozalem - 26/Mar/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Right Angle Zawn
  Climbs starting up Right Angle
3 Right Angle HS 4b *** 675
4 Right Angle (VS 4b variation) VS 4b *** 73
5 Surf Wall
-
S 6
6 Rota Guta
-
S 1
7 The Kraken HVS 5a 13
8 Pure Juice E1 5b 2
  Climbs starting from the Cave
10 Behemoth E2 5c ** 67
11 Leviathan
-
E4 6a ** 2
  Climbs reached from the region of Shark
13 Mastodon E3 5c *** 80
14 Black Magic E2 5b ** 26
15 Shark E1 5b * 23
16 Tropospheric Scatter E4 5c ** 7
17 Probe S 5
  Miscellaneous routes
19 No Angle VD 1
20 If Blue Were Blue S 4a 1
21 Left Angle
-
E2 5b 1
22 Off Pat
-
E1 5b 1
23 The Cheek
-
E4 5c 1

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