Rockfax Description
A true classic of its grade, which follows an almost unbelievable path into, and out of territory that looks as though it should be reserved for far more extreme climbs. Start on ledges level with an orange, lichen-covered ledge (this is the belay ledge at the end of the first pitch) as viewed from the easy, rocky-ground that runs down the right side of the zawn.
1) 13m. Traverse horizontally rightwards past a bay to a good stance on the orange ledge.
2) 4b, 22m. Continue the traverse rightwards for a further 12m, then descend the steep wall and corner to a point just above the high-water mark. Move right to a stance and belay. This pitch requires careful route-finding, and is much trickier if damp.
2a) 4b, 18m. An inferior variation on the second pitch continues the traverse, below a long, narrow overhang, all the way to meet the base of the corner above the cave, and a restricted stance. This variation is less affected by sea conditions.
3) 4a, 38m. Take the wall above the stance to meet the corner at the overhang. Follow the corner in a breathtaking position, all the way to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, Kernow, West Country Climbs, 50 Best HS Routes in the UK., Rockfax West Country top 50, UK Classic Corners, UK Lonely Leads, HS Climbs to do in Summer 2014, Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe, South West VDiff-HVS, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Paul's pre-Kendal Kernow ticklist, High Quality Adventure routes, CUC Climbing Club, Part 2: Hidden Gems, Adventures & Harder Offerings, Best Mid Grade Sea Cliff Traverses, Adventure ticklist 2018.

Reevinator 28/Aug/17 Lead O/S

3 pitch route, with middle pitch down climb. About right at HS, although plenty of gear is needed to protect the second on pitch 2 when performing the 10m downclimb. Excellent climb around 2-3 hours

with Walshyboy
KLPearson 27/Aug/17 2nd
with Joseph
Hidden 27/Aug/17 Lead O/S
rob.grafton 26/Aug/17 AltLd
with Alan Dovey
jshields 21/Aug/17 AltLd

First did this Sept."96, so nearly afresh onsite! Great to do this again, has to be one off the best HS in the country.

Hidden 21/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
tobydunford 10/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with Harry Martin
LoneDeranger 06/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

A mini-adventure. Led the traverse/downclimb pitch. Small wires for belay. Gave mid-HS 4b not in agreement with my other gradings but in respect of my inititiation into the "Cornish HS" grade

with Rob
G Weatherley 05/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Led P1, P3. Had to do a higher variation of lower P2 due to high splashes

with Ed Walker
vertical worm 08/Jul/17 Lead
Hidden 05/Jul/17 Lead O/S
jhobbs 05/Jul/17 2nd O/S

Pure Class

Hidden 22/Jun/17 AltLd
bryan61 22/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

classic, supurb climbing throughout

with sally
Jane Weir 19/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
with Adrian Paisey
perrys 18/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
with Tom Powell
Hidden 18/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/17 AltLd
ben1987 30/May/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/May/17 AltLd
Rib1356 22/May/17 AltLd O/S
Dizz 18/May/17 AltLd rpt
with Pradreg
leerybunny 14/May/17 Lead rpt

Took high level traverse due to sea state

with Odette
George_Surf 11/May/17 AltLd O/S

rachel p1, i led p2. nice climbing never too hard. p2 felt quite long

rachelpearce01 11/May/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Apr/17 AltLd O/S
suds_01 20/Apr/17 AltLd O/S
with Tom Horton
Flavio 19/Apr/17 AltLd O/S

In two pitches by headtorch.

JendeHoxar 19/Apr/17 AltLd O/S
with Flavio
JGriffiths 17/Apr/17 AltLd O/S

Pitch 2

Christina 16/Apr/17 AltLd

Thrilling climb. Unprepared for the exposure, I backed off leading the ungraded P1. Also seconded P2, which had to be harder than leading, right? Fortunately, Paul laced it with gear and I left a karabiner in the rusty peg as a tope-rope. Led P3.

with Paul Clarkson
cdpuk 15/Apr/17 AltLd O/S

Led the downclimb

with Rachel
RachelHC 15/Apr/17 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and P3

with Chris P
Hidden 14/Apr/17 Lead O/S
DanChad 10/Apr/17 AltLd O/S

I led pitches 1 and 3. The doenclimb on P2 was trickier than I was expecting.

Chris Murray 10/Apr/17 AltLd

Led P2. An amazing and atmospheric climb that I've wanted to do for years. The belay at the end of P2 is small nuts so make sure you take enough. I seemed to use loads on the pitch and could have done with a few more for the belay.

JC95Evans 02/Apr/17 AltLd O/S
Lizard Ollie 02/Apr/17 AltLd rpt

Took P2 this time with Jess crushing her first HS on P1 & 3. Ropes decided to go full pretzel and twist themselves up while belaying for P3 but miraculously unraveled after giving them a stern talking to and threatening to lower them into the sea.

Hidden ?/Apr/17 AltLd
nicks ?/Apr/17 AltLd
markfromstoke 26/Mar/17 AltLd
with Luke, Steve N
Stanners 19/Mar/17 AltLd O/S

led Pitch 1 & 2. Big seas and waves so did the 'inferior' pitch which didn't seem that at all. Still close to getting a soaking on a few freak waves! Scary and fun action!

with Sam & Adam
ClimbingAlex 03/Dec/16 AltLd rpt

In the dark - incredible atmosphere. Awesome to complete the full route this time :) Led P1/P3

with Matt
Matt Magecha 03/Dec/16 AltLd
with Alex
Hidden 05/Nov/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
Will Mortimer 29/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
Lizard Ollie 14/Oct/16 AltLd O/S

Utterly spectacular. I took P1&3 and Jake P2. Awesome route, awesome location and big smiles all the way. While some may say this route requires big nuts, I would recommend lots of small ones, at least in terms of gear

joermann 30/Sep/16 AltLd
ChrisGard 25/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
with Chris Lucas
C May 11/Sep/16 AltLd

Pitch 2

with Rosie
rosiehawker 11/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
saz_b 10/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

P2 - with the traverse under the roof. Did the down climb but then backed out after the sea didn't relent! Moderate and low tide still leaves the bottom wet. Traverse was straightforward and still enjoyable. Great atmospheric stance! Superb route. First rusty peg is pretty finished now!

with daniel easton
danieleaston 10/Sep/16 AltLd β

With the high level traverse due to angry seas

with Saz
Rob Seymour 27/Aug/16 AltLd

Marking the 50th Anniversary of the first ascent with loads of other people. Great day.

Rob Seymour 27/Aug/16 Lead

Marking the 50th Anniversary of the first ascent with loads of other people. Great day.

with Dave Fisher
Bob Peters 27/Aug/16 AltLd rpt

Lots of traffic, bit worried about polish. Still alright I suppose.

with Dad
Avon Man 27/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

First ascent. Or at least the first of around 40 ascents that day to celebrate the fiftieth anniversary of the climb. A great sense of occasion - and a great route.

with Derek
hornbywill 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Part of the 50th anniversary.

bob johnson 12/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Rich Ball
bob johnson 11/Aug/16 Solo
with Rich Ball
Hidden 06/Aug/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/16 AltLd
Jim Malo 20/Jul/16 2nd O/S
with Stu
climbingisgreat 18/Jul/16 2nd O/S

Superbly exposed for the grade, great route!

with Adrian Moore, Ruth Moore
Hidden 16/Jul/16 2nd
Rob Moorcroft 16/Jul/16 Lead

Started rather late, so the last pitch was done in the dark. Exciting!

with TaraRose, Richard Ive
Callum Smith 15/Jul/16 Lead O/S

I loved it, Lucy hated the middle pitch.

with Lucy
shoulders 12/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

p2. amazing positions for the traverse

with pete lewis
Hidden 04/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
amccann 18/Jun/16 Solo O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
Rob Seymour 06/Jun/16 AltLd
with Andy Brellisford
littleduck 01/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Led 2nd and 3rd main pitches

with Tony Madden
ladempsey 29/May/16 Lead

Tried the second pitch but got confused, downclimbed the wrong (and far more difficult!) way, had to come back up and remove some gear before swapping with my partner again at the start of the pitch. He then fell trying to get to the small belay ledge at the end of the second pitch but we somehow managed it without getting soaked or hurt. I then did the third pitch on-sight, what a beautiful and sustained climb. Started to run out of gear to place, but the holds were great and the moves interesting so topped out without too much trouble. Overall took us five hours, phew!

Matt Magecha 24/May/16 AltLd
with Alex
ClimbingAlex 24/May/16 AltLd O/S

Stunning climbing in a dramatic atmosphere. Led P1/P3. Matt tried downclimbing to the belay at the end of P2 - got a soaking by a huge wave! Had to set up above the waves. Would love to come back & try the whole climb!

with Matt
JackM92 ?/May/16 -
Hidden 16/Apr/16 AltLd O/S
PeteMc 12/Mar/16 AltLd

Inferior variation due to sea conditions

Borden 12/Mar/16 AltLd
Hidden 12/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
petecallaghan 12/Mar/16 AltLd O/S

Impressive swell and lots of damp rock, so we did the shortcut, which had some exciting moments on slippery rock across the hand traverse into the corner. Big spray made it very atmospheric. We'll be back in the summer to do it properly

Mike Roger ??/2016 -
lankysod ??/2016 -
Darron ??/2016 -
JulesClimbs 29/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Paul P1 & P3,

with Paul
Ben1983 28/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/15 Lead rpt
Sophie Nunn 01/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
with Sue
garywong 31/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Led the down-climb pitch. A challenge working out what to do with the ropes and gear, but still ended up with horrendous rope drag! Great route with lots of variety and exciting positions.

Hidden 31/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/15 AltLd
rd20 27/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

RD P1 and 3 (high level as swell too great)

with Sally Guildford MC
Hidden 27/Aug/15 AltLd
cbonner 22/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Continued the traverse as lower ledge was wet. Quality climb on great rock.

Stickle Tarn 21/Jul/15 Lead O/S

@ high tide with waves crashing just bellow the belay for P3

jordana86 21/Jul/15 2nd

the down climb was slippery and scary!

arandall 18/Jul/15 AltLd rpt

P2 + 3

robgixer 18/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Wendy Watthews 18/Jul/15 AltLd rpt

Part of Alex's trad rehabilitation

hazeysunshine 08/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Ian Miller 21/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Dizz 21/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Ian F
Cheese Monkey 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Lovely. Got a bit soaked on p2 but all part of the fun. Whoever utterly caked this in chalk should be shot.

with Ian M
J.A.Thomson 20/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Dan
dominic lee 19/Jun/15 Solo
Hidden 16/Jun/15 AltLd
Hidden 16/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Jun/15 AltLd
K_Maywood 13/Jun/15 AltLd
Hidden 13/Jun/15 -
omaskrey 05/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

I lead first two pitches, Tom lead the 3rd

Rob Moorcroft 05/Jun/15 2nd
with Richard Ive
Hidden 05/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Matt Smith 25/May/15 Lead O/S

What's a classic climb without a slight epic... All went wrong after misreading guide. P1 went fine and is amazing. Downclimbed too early on P2 but got to position level with belay. Didn't realise you had to continue downclimbing and traversed across using a pocket and slot (probably 5a). Zoe quite understandably didn't like the look of it, especially with marginal gear. So backtracked up p2 and finished via high tide version. Red nut left at p2 belay and a gold 4cu cam left in p3 if anyone wants to return them :-) Overall route is great, amazing, superb... but read, read and re-read the route description...

Hidden 25/May/15 2nd dnf
Grant Fulton 20/May/15 2nd
with Aidan
Samuel Wainwright 16/May/15 AltLd O/S
with Edward Tonkin, Adam Bloch
Hidden 15/May/15 AltLd O/S
ad111 15/May/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/May/15 AltLd
jgordon75 17/Apr/15 AltLd

I lead corner pitch

with Tim Jepson
Hidden 05/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
kennythescot 21/Mar/15 AltLd O/S
with Luke Robinson
J.A.Thomson ?/Jan/15 AltLd
with Dan
J.A.Thomson ?/Jan/15 AltLd
with Dan
J.A.Thomson ?/Jan/15 AltLd
with Dan
J.A.Thomson ?/Jan/15 AltLd
with Dan
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 AltLd O/S
eel 08/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Ted
John Nuttall 04/Sep/14 Lead
with Sharon
dbm 03/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Tom P
TP 03/Sep/14 -
with Dave M
Paul423 28/Aug/14 Lead dnf

Did not complete route. Returned from belay stance of pitch 2 due to No2 needing to extract.

musgravet 23/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Olly combined P1 and 2, I had P3 up the corner

with Olly P
Hidden 23/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Subwaycups 06/Aug/14 Lead rpt
eastonator 06/Aug/14 2nd O/S
knighty 06/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Amazing climbing. Lead p1 & 3. Fun traverses and exciting down climbing then the awesome route out. Incredible.

Mark D 02/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Dave Duggan
StevieLee ?/Aug/14 Lead O/S
richiebongo 30/Jul/14 Solo O/S

A wonderful experience.

crimpylewis 30/Jul/14 2nd

most adventurous route yet.

1poundSOCKS 29/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Jon led P1 and P3, I led P2 (after Rich soloed it). P3 is fantastic, can't be many better at the grade. Awkward move on the downclimb of P2, and the belay wasn't the best, so I was hoping Jon wouldn't fall and pull us both into the sea. I also worked out that backclipping on downclimbs will better protect the second, and doesn't affect the leader. Note to self: be careful to pull the ropes gently on traverses, the gear does seem to fall out more easily.

Didymus 29/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Graham Baxter 27/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
jfletcher 27/Jul/14 AltLd

Calm seas this time, allowing the whole corner pitch.

with Graham Baxter
JoeCoxson 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Lead all three pitches.Definitely a more exposed climb for Luke than I, especially on the tricky downclimb. Third pitch is amazing, easier than it looks, and a long pitch.

Hidden 25/Jul/14 Solo O/S
Chubbs 25/Jul/14 AltLd
cornishben 20/Jul/14 Lead rpt

repeat ascent, 20 years after first did it. Strung P1/2 together.

with Rich Draisey
Hidden 17/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
oddtoast 09/Jul/14 AltLd

Led p2 - the right angle, learnt important lesson about trusting that the holds *will* be there after having a wobble! Top pitch long and brilliant too.

with Gav
Hidden 09/Jul/14 AltLd
andrea83 05/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Def felt like VS, both lead and second need to be competent in the HS/VS grade to do this route. We climbed it on a lovely sunny day in the summer and the crux of P2 got soaked with high waves. Thankfully things dried quite quickly. Would be incredibly committing in other conditions if the rock wasn't quick drying and the waves were higher. Lovely though and mostly straightforward climbing.

with Hamish
Hidden 05/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Hamish777 05/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Truly wonderful, probably the best route I have ever done. I lead P1 and P3. P1, although ungraded, is very intimidating. P2 is the crux one and it requires very careful ropework, it was made a little more exciting as the waves crashed over me and soaked all the key holds. P3 is a joy. Great memories!

with Andrea
Ben Snook ?/Jul/14 Lead O/S

An excellent couple of hours. Super easy for the leader, but requires constant thought about safety for the second. P1 was in some ways my favorite; a complete path heading out in to amazing territory. P2 was fine for the most part, but I forgot to downclimb far enough, and traversed at half height between the horizontal break and the belay ledge. This involved moves on a pocket and a slot, not much for feet, and a sweaty slither on to the stance; definitely not HS 4b. I did not envy the second, and despite their success at following, regret that I didn't do a better job of protecting them. Good belay anchors high up. P3 was pretty special; a 100ft ladder in an incredible setting. We started only about 2 hours after high tide in a lowish sea, and had no wave dramas. Go and do it!

tim newton 26/Jun/14 Solo O/S
Merlin 25/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Lead P1 & 3. Found seconding the down climb on P2 terrifying!

with Phil Chalkley
Binder 22/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

I led p2. Fantastic position and lovely climbing on a beautifully sunny day.

with Spike R
augustus trout 18/Jun/14 AltLd
with Dave Wylie
AndyMcCoy 13/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

It was high tide at the bottom so a bit splashy, especially for Alex who led P2

hotfeet 13/Jun/14 AltLd

The bottom of the descent pitch with no runners gave me some scary moments. An awesome route.

davetaylor 08/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Shawn Led P1, me P2 and P3. Glorious climb in fantastic position and very exciting. Gear everywhere.

Drew M ?/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18/May/14 AltLd
Neil D 17/May/14 Lead O/S
Wevcore 15/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Jen Gilbert
tumbling wizard ?/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
with andrew marshall
Tom Seccombe 11/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Louise Street
David Pye ??/2014 -
westong ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden 24/Nov/13 AltLd
Hidden 24/Nov/13 AltLd
minexplorer 23/Sep/13 AltLd

high crashing waves.only poss to do high traverse.sam led that and i finished to the top.

with sam
Rassapotimus 23/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch/high traverse due to tide and large swell leaving the lower section sopping. Had a few white horses tickle my heels. Great start to the weeks trip.

Hidden 27/Aug/13 AltLd
PilarMartinez 23/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Led the first and the last pitch, following the second pitch it is very interesting and requires of commitment if the leader doesn't put much gear on the way down. Amazing climb

benkelsey 21/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

P 1 and 3. really really good route.

with Chris Kelsey
John Roe 12/Aug/13 AltLd

Alec led the first and last pitches. An excellent route

with Alec Crombie
Ashley Hold 07/Aug/13 AltLd
with Tim Chamberlain
Neil McA 27/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with Stan
Hidden 21/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Sarah Welsh 21/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Sarah P1, P3. Em P2

Hidden 21/Jul/13 AltLd
Samuel P 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Gareth
Hidden 20/Jul/13 AltLd
francois 19/Jul/13 AltLd

Mega-classic. I led the main corner. Nice and easy but pretty long.

with Ben
gg4419 16/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Lead Pitch 2

nickstephens 16/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Alex Thomson 14/Jul/13 AltLd
Hidden 14/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
A Walker 13/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led first and last pitch

with Skip
steve.aisthorpe 13/Jul/13 AltLd
with Pete Greening
Skip 13/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Fantastic situation. Climbing not difficult, except for a couple of moves near the end of pitch 2, presuming i got the line right.

Psych ?/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Will Gordon 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Kevster 25/Jun/13 AltLd rpt
Gavdee1 25/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Led last pitch

with Kev
burto 09/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with hertha
rurp 31/May/13 TR

lowered ben down last pitch for first hs!

with ben rowland
perranman 30/May/13 AltLd

First time doing the full route rather than the high traverse. Swung on a ballnut following downwards on p2. There is a peg apparently at the top of the descent. Next time ill clip it and sacrifice a carabiner to protect the second.

with James berwick
jhb0510 30/May/13 AltLd O/S

Dave lead the first pitch, I lead the second and third. Thought the traverse from the corner to the second belay ledge was hard. Perhaps should have gone lower, the rockfax guide does say descend to the high tide mark. Dave took a small fall/swing at that point. The corner/slab is delightful, but I did not think as hard as the last pitch of the second route. The definitive guide and rockfax seem to disagree on the grades.

with Dave Webster
jakenichol 19/May/13 Lead rpt
Misha 17/May/13 AltLd O/S

Astral Stroll looked wet so decided to check out Gurnard's Head and got on this on the heels of another two IM teams, though they took the high traverse line. I led the middle pitch and took the low belay as the sea was fairly calm. The down climb is quite hard for a few moves. Mostly easy moves and generally good gear but should be VS really for the commitment. A brilliant line and a true classic. With Viktor from Sweden on the BMC international meet. Then went and did Astrall Stroll after all! Will be back for Behemoth and Mastadon (they were wet).

with Viktor
Sean Kelly 15/May/13 AltLd

On the BMC I.M. Really wild seas, which sounded like a cannon firing every time waves crashed into the zawn. Utterly amazing climb! Consequently did the traverse just below the overhang to reach the hanging belay at the start of the corner.

with Alberto Rampini
Ianhansen ??/2013 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2013 -
adie84 ??/2013 -
Chris Ellis ??/2013 AltLd
with Nige Shaw
Hidden ??/2013 Lead O/S
westong ??/2013 -
Norman_P_W 27/Oct/12 AltLd
JonHarvey 27/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
with Lauren
markfromstoke 27/Oct/12 AltLd
with Norman
BALD EAGLE 29/Sep/12 AltLd
Slick 29/Sep/12 AltLd

Traverse route due to time and tide! Led P1 & 3

with Kevin Vans-Colina
Poco Loco 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S

What a great position, climbing down to the bottom of the zawn and back to the top. Highly recommended. Belay at the end of P2 is not great, but something can be arrange with small wires.

with Lucy
Bobling 29/Sep/12 AltLd

Excellent, very good fun and only one or two testing moves. More could be desired from the belay at the bottom of the right angle though!

with Dave L
lucyh 29/Sep/12 2nd

Brilliant Climb. Found the moves onto the 2nd belay quite interesting

Hidden 17/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
NancyJones 13/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Joined the high traverse and finishing corner to make a wonderful extenders were very useful! Good belay at start of high traverse - can't understande why the guide book tells you to belay at the other end. Great route!

with Dad
Pete Jones 13/Sep/12 2nd
neilstubbs 08/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

I led P2 - I traversed across to the top of the little corner and then did the whole downclimb vertically, next to no holds in places so smeared my way down. Definitely easier to downclimb as far as possible BEFORE entering the bottom of the corner and finishing the downclimb below it. I started on P3 just after sundown, cracking route!

with Stefan Parkin
Bex_M 20/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
with Duncan Dunbar
Stone Muppet 18/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with am
Graeme James Cook 11/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
with Maz
2602steve 10/Aug/12 -
MazElden ?/Aug/12 AltLd
with Graeme
Mark Kemball 28/Jul/12 Lead
Hidden 23/Jul/12 Lead
leerybunny 22/Jul/12 Lead RP

4th Attempt.. Sun.. Check. Tides.. Check. Sea State.. Check. A great adventure for a Sunny Sunday

with Stan
pete87abs 14/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Rosie Crossley
Hidden 30/Jun/12 AltLd
shouter 27/Jun/12 AltLd
Carter 23/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/12 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/12 AltLd
gingerking 30/May/12 2nd
with Hadley
Hidden 30/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May/12 AltLd O/S
Graham Westbrook 21/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
windle 05/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

started it too far left and did the first 2 pitches too low, going across the slabs was good fun though.

with Alistair Palmer
mattkemp70 ?/Apr/12 AltLd
with Westy
arandall 14/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

I did first and last pitch. really good fun, but between wendy doing the crux and me there was a big wave so it was dripping wet, quite interesting. 3 stars

Wendy Watthews 14/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

got hit by a wave on 2nd belay ledge :)

Stone Idle ??/2012 -
PAJames ??/2012 -
MazElden ??/2012 AltLd O/S
with Graeme
alan moore ??/2012 -


Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
Graeme James Cook ??/2012 AltLd
with Maz
Stone Idle ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Lead
Al Evans ??/2012 Lead
jag ??/2012 AltLd

super sunny , not a bteath of wind. perfect conditions for a unique climb for a HS - committing and very atmospheric: the situation makes the grade feel much higher. crossed too early onto what i thought was the second belay ledge - very thin moves and desperate smearing above sheer smmoth rock. exhilarating

with steveo
JonG ??/2012 -
neilstubbs 20/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

Awesome! Led pitch 3 in the dark!

with Stefan Parkin
royal 26/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Climbed with Rob.

with rob
Reds 23/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
althesin 23/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Lead second pitch, ran out of gear, bunch of nuts on a cam sling left for belay. Most excellent route.

with Reds
royal 23/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Absolute quality climb in an amazing setting. Technically pretty easy but feels very committing and pretty intimidating before you set off.

with ed
Simon Caldwell 01/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Utterly brilliant. I led pitch 1 which is easy but massively exposed, and the final long corner. Carmen led the descent pitch so in effect I was "leading" it, and duly threw a wobbler near the bottom where it gets hard and you can't see any more footholds. Somewhere near the top of my "all time favourites".

with Carmen
Hidden ?/Sep/11 AltLd
soph ?/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
with Helena Robinson
J5Kay 28/Aug/11 AltLd O/S


jbulger 28/Aug/11 AltLd
Becky E 22/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Exciting stuff seconding P2 - down climbing on soaking holds. Enjoyed P3.

Graeme Hammond 22/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Exciting stuff at the grade. I led pitch 2 as Becky decided she would rather down climb 4b with the rope below her than above, and the final section looked particularly hard after a large wave soaked everything!! Great 3rd pitch. Thought the first pitch deserved a grade, and was excellent too.

with Becky E
AJH 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Very good climb. The last bit of the second pitch in the rain was interesting!

with Crispin
ronmcdonald 10/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Dad
Alastair Watts 29/Jul/11 2nd
with Dad, Chris
Country_Boy 27/Jul/11 2nd dog
with Stu Bradbury
Hidden 09/Jul/11 2nd O/S
BelayBunney 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Exposed and a bit different from the norm! Found the down climb over the bulge on P2 a little tricky in the wet. P3 is just awesome!

John Tanner 07/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Fantastic climb! Actually quite easy to access. Had to do the higher variation on pitch 2 as the swell was up, but still getting a bit of spray! So much atmosphere

mrstarwarsman 07/Jul/11 AltLd
Macca_7 02/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Another superb route there cannot be many routes of this grade that take you into such atmospheric positions. Amazing. Led the crux pitch and found the steep onto the belay ledge pretty tricky. The rest of the climbing is just superb jug pulling which lets you enjoy every move and every minute of it!

with Si O'Hora
Freddie 1 02/Jul/11 2nd O/S

with my double hernia!

with Jim, Andyh83
Hidden 02/Jul/11 Lead
stuaart 01/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Belay quite thin for a HS---managed to get a rock 2, microcam and peenut in. Quite a remarkable and preposterous route, scary and committing even though all the moves are easy.

thomasaneurinsmith 01/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Brilliant! Quite an exciting adventure.

with Stuart Reeves
Subwaycups 30/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
solenostomus 18/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Steve lead the traverse pitches 1 and 2. On approaching the last belay I got completely washed over by a massive wave. We swapped gear, and I led the 3rd pitch (straight up) to the finish. Massively atmospheric climb - a setting sun behind us, a wonderful oceanic soundtrack and an inquisitive seal below us. An exhilarating adventure!

with Steve P
Dave Mason 11/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with Darren Belfield
oliver.ghill91 10/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/11 AltLd
Hidden 04/Jun/11 2nd dog
highfivekrissy 04/Jun/11 AltLd
Dave Heaton 04/Jun/11 AltLd
with Jon Bassinder
Em66 04/Jun/11 AltLd
with Mat
Ian JL 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
The Ivanator 03/Jun/11 AltLd

Wow! Intimidating situation with a lively sea. I led P1, Rich then led P2 didn't like the downclimb with the waves and set an intermediate belay. I braved the rest of the pitch and got royally soaked by a big wave just before reaching the belay! Last moves to the belay ledge on suddenly gopping wet holds were "fun". I led P3 as well. Brilliant, technically straightforward but this takes you places other HS's just don't reach!

with Rich
Hidden 03/Jun/11 AltLd
peter myers ?/Jun/11 -
hamish2016 ?/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with Oliver Hill
manbat 05/May/11 2nd O/S
with Zach Lawlor
Chris Manasseh 02/May/11 AltLd

Led pitches 1 + 3. Committing and utterly magnificent.

with Andy Gee
Hidden ?/May/11 AltLd
Martin Stevens 29/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Mervyn L.
dan gibson 27/Apr/11 2nd rpt
with helen gibson
petegruf 26/Apr/11 Lead O/S

The few metres of the traverse before the last belay seemed quite hard for a 4b. More like 5a. Bertie fell off. Luckily he could climb back up. Great atmosphere.

with bertie
mark20 24/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Led high varation on P2. Amazing route, jugfest in wild position

Hidden 24/Apr/11 AltLd
jeffb 22/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Calder 22/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Started raining during p2, and traverse to the bottom ledge was gopping wet. Awesome!

Elaine Budden 18/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

split te last pitch as worried my gear would run out and as tom was getting wet on the belay.

El3ctroFuzz 18/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Led P3, but i think took the wrong down climb route, felt way harder than grade suggested! Lots of swell, and got quite wet as Elaine got half way up the corner! So split the pitch in 2, and i led the second half of the corner!

with Elaine Budden
Hidden ?/Apr/11 AltLd
mattshort ??/2011 AltLd O/S
Neil Henson ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Chris Nash ??/2011 2nd
callum brown ??/2011 AltLd O/S
Frostie 21/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Roy Harris
minexplorer 17/Oct/10 AltLd

led 1st pitch steve led rest he managed to set a 3 point belay on the bottom ledge after finding a nut placement tucked around to the right id missed last 2 nuts (not great)where the broken peg was.incidently i found a bommer belay below and before belay ledge on 2 good small ledges far better than proper one.

minexplorer 09/Oct/10 Lead

the bottom belay ledge had stub of broken peg and looked like only places for a no.1 nut an also a zero cam which i didnt have.decided as mate v nervous about the down climb to go back up an do vs variation traverse into corner to belay.what a great adventure u cld solo this v grippy rock an jugs all way from start to finish.

with grant newcombe
Jacob k-d 26/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
erinbastian 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with jacob
Hidden 19/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
spragglerocks 02/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Lumbering Oaf 02/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Very atmospheric climb if there's even a touch of swell. Papping my pants a little as wave spray reaching upper belay point at low tide. Noise of waves intimidating. Climbing fun and simple in the end!

Keenb 29/Aug/10 2nd O/S

Seconding the 2nd pitch is harder than leading it!

Dinger 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Led P2 and P3.

Hidden 28/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Norman_P_W 28/Aug/10 AltLd
with Bob M
Bobby Gilbert 08/Aug/10 AltLd rpt
katherinesydney 08/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

yay! led 1st pitch

Mike W 16/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Rampikino 05/Jun/10 Lead
with Cat
Steve Lenartowicz ?/Jun/10 -
Hidden 22/May/10 Lead
Different Steve 14/May/10 AltLd rpt

Led corner pitch in the sunshine - fantastic!

with Mick Walsh
Different Steve 12/May/10 AltLd O/S

Led 1st 2 traverse pitches to lower stance

with Luis Silva
pezzerrr 10/May/10 AltLd O/S
3kidsandanorton 12/Apr/10 Lead
with Kay
ollie1 11/Apr/10 AltLd
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
JerryD ??/2010 -
Hidden 16/Dec/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Sep/09 AltLd
Dilwat 10/Sep/09 AltLd O/S


SurferStan 10/Sep/09 Lead O/S

P1 and P3

with Dilwat
Batt 19/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

P1 - me, P2 - Si, P3 - James. Awesome, fun traversing, sunny day, nice climbing with nothing too taxing in brilliant setting.

craig h 24/Jul/09 AltLd rpt
with Janet Hannah
jgclimb 20/Jul/09 2nd

repeat #2. moe's b'day treat!

with moe tom
DanLear 26/Jun/09 AltLd
with Al McPhierson
Hidden 26/Jun/09 AltLd
mattparratt 25/Jun/09 AltLd

Led the big traverse and the descent (pitches 1 and 2). Awesome exposed traverse, fun descent. All round superb 3 stars fully deserved!

hembug 09/Jun/09 2nd O/S

Took the HVS 5a variation to the last belay

ASchwirtz 09/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Excellent route on nice rock with good gear

with Stephan (UBMC)
Hidden ?/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/May/09 AltLd O/S
crobinson 30/May/09 AltLd

Fantastic climb in an amazing setting, third pitch is worth the trip.

Bobby Gilbert 29/May/09 AltLd O/S
with Tom Larkam, Nicole Gilbert, Roger Larkam
climbergg 03/May/09 AltLd
Tim M 03/May/09 AltLd O/S
with Emma
JGW ?/May/09 AltLd
with Matt Tilley
Hidden 19/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/09 AltLd
Hidden 05/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
Tim Milford 21/Mar/09 2nd O/S

First multi pitch climb, excellent, despite not being stretching my abilities very far. Would recommend to any one.

with Simon Young
craig.potter ?/Feb/09 AltLd O/S

With ash s

andybenham ??/2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/08 Lead
sinbad 28/Aug/08 AltLd
eddy-on-the-rocks 28/Aug/08 Lead O/S

In the rain! With plastic jacket on - I've never sweated so much in my life.

with Sinbad
centurion05 25/Aug/08 Lead O/S
CMCM 22/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Chris Lewis
Hidden ?/Aug/08 Lead
Peter Reynolds ?/Aug/08 Lead
matthewjc 14/Jul/08 Lead
with Nigel
Fenwick ?/Jul/08 -
MoWalker3 14/Jun/08 AltLd
with Cormac, Quiet Ian
Martin Bennett 10/Jun/08 -
with RA
Hidden 09/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
david morse 09/Jun/08 AltLd

Hard severes on the coast dont and cant get much better than this

with chris todd
cmsg 07/Jun/08 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1 and 3; descended pitch 2 after partner. That's the trickiest part by a long way.

with Duc Le
ducle 07/Jun/08 2nd O/S
cayteye 05/Jun/08 2nd
with Paul Highams
Master Chief 31/May/08 Lead O/S
with Moe
ed_1973 06/May/08 AltLd
tradguy 06/May/08 AltLd O/S
Bobby Pearson 03/May/08 2nd
with Guy Buckingham
Bob M 27/Mar/08 AltLd
deeave ??/2008 2nd dog
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd
Master Chief 06/Nov/07 2nd O/S
with Jeremy
jgclimb 06/Nov/07 Lead
with tom
Hidden 05/Sep/07 AltLd
liz77 31/Aug/07 AltLd

Led P1&3

with Cokie
Zoomer 29/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Intimidating climbing but brilliant! Got jammed ropes, tears and finishing the 2nd pitch off belay. All good fun. Last pitch is 4a but the descending corner is polished and, if you cross to the stance to early, is high end 4b. Stay on the outside when descending and go low, the rest can then be enjoyed.

Jules 210681 29/Aug/07 2nd
minaturechris 27/Aug/07 AltLd

Nice traverse. Down-climbing the crack was interesting with the sea below. Delightful second pitch.

with Barra
Hidden 27/Aug/07 2nd
Hidden 27/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/07 Lead
Geoffers ?/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
with Tim
Hidden ??/2007 AltLd O/S
Pippa ??/2007 AltLd O/S
with Jon
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden 26/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Aug/06 Lead O/S
featuresforfeet 03/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
with Liz
Huntlyfiddler 25/Jul/06 2nd
bpmclimb 25/Jul/06 Lead O/S

Wasn't completely sure of the best line for pitch 3 - ended up exiting the descending corner and making a descending traverse of the wall on small holds.

with Clare
nigel pearson ?/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

fantastic climb. Done in worsening weather and waves crashing over Yoko as I led the corner pitch.

with Yoko
jfletcher 20/May/06 AltLd

Big sea, very high traverse variation!

runestone 28/Apr/06 AltLd

Great Route

with J
Hidden 17/Apr/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/06 Lead O/S
mikelaing ??/2006 -
Mickdenali ??/2006 Lead
with Clare Girling
crossdressingrodney 22/Jun/05 AltLd O/S
victim of mathematics 22/Jun/05 AltLd O/S
Rob Oram 16/Jun/05 AltLd O/S

Fantastic climb, the sea was a bit rough so it was a bit hair raising. Really atmospheric, I led the first and third pitch.

with James Booth
Si dH 14/Jun/05 AltLd O/S
with Andy Morris
Hidden ?/Jun/05 AltLd O/S
AJM ?/Jun/05 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/May/05 AltLd rpt
Hidden ?/Apr/05 Lead
rockjedi12345 ?/Mar/05 Lead O/S

Big, VERY Big seas. I was scared, i think i made a little brown fish!!!!!!!!!!!!

with Pete Sanderson
Raggar 20/Oct/04 AltLd


with Ian M, Andy J
Hidden ?/Sep/04 Lead
Hidden 22/Aug/04 Lead O/S
PaulTanton ?/Jun/04 AltLd O/S

Nice route. Did it while waiting for Behemoth to dry out

with Dave Taylor
five 30/May/04 Lead O/S
with PW
Neil Henson ??/2004 2nd

The climbing wasn't too bad but the belays scared me senseless. Feels (and is) very committing for both leader and second.

with Mark Collins
Adrian Daniels 20/Sep/03 AltLd
with John Parrott
Hidden ?/Sep/03 AltLd
nickdonohue 08/Jul/03 Lead
with Simon Reynolds
EllieWoods 24/Apr/03 AltLd O/S
with Ian Denton
Antoine1 18/Mar/03 Lead

Amazingly atmospheric climb

with Andy Platell
leadmat ??/2003 Solo
1202alarm ??/2003 -
BALD EAGLE 25/Aug/02 Lead
with Liz
Hidden 13/Aug/02 Lead O/S
Mark Collins 05/May/02 Lead O/S
with Neil Henson
timreynolds 03/May/02 AltLd
with John Burnip
Hidden 31/Aug/01 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/01 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/01 AltLd
Dave Musgrove Jnr 27/Jul/01 Lead O/S
with Richard Dibley
Hidden 28/May/01 AltLd
Hidden ??/2001 Lead O/S
lost.arrow 08/Oct/00 -
Wharncliffebabe ?/Aug/00 2nd O/S

Seals aaahh

with Cragspud
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Aug/00 Lead O/S
with Naomi Walker
stuart100 19/Jul/00 AltLd rpt
with Ian Brown
nickdonohue ??/2000 AltLd
with Mark McCarthy
NickP ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
Roget 20/Aug/99 Solo O/S
with jim
Rich Malcolm 24/Jul/99 Lead β
with Emma Pilkington
Hidden 02/Jun/99 AltLd O/S
Bob M 02/May/99 AltLd
with Jill Stevens
belay bunny turned bad ??/1999 -
nigehughes ?/Aug/98 AltLd
with Andy Hack
Rich Malcolm 23/Jul/98 2nd O/S
with Kevin Simmons, Rich Hewitt
andy gittins ??/1998 Lead
with Annette
Hidden 02/Aug/97 Lead O/S
Rog Wilko ?/Apr/97 AltLd

Variation 2a. No harder than the rest of the route.

with Debbie Wilkinson
Kevster ??/1997 -
mikej 14/Sep/96 AltLd

Via 2a variation

with Nick Salmon
Hidden 11/Sep/96 Lead O/S
timreynolds 08/Sep/96 AltLd
craig h 25/Jun/96 AltLd O/S
with Janet Hannah
bencole ?/May/96 AltLd
with Dad
Hidden ?/May/96 AltLd
colin milton 28/Apr/96 AltLd
with eric milton
Hidden 08/Apr/96 AltLd
Hidden ?/Apr/96 -
jmr 22/Mar/96 AltLd
with Dave Walker
andy_pemberton ??/1996 AltLd
with Noel
mike fenwick ?/Sep/95 Lead
with Ben Pearce
Budge ?/Aug/95 AltLd O/S
with Adrian Fox
cragspud ?/Jun/95 Lead O/S
babymoac 10/Dec/94 AltLd
with MTW
Hidden 02/May/94 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Apr/94 AltLd
GAtkins 09/Oct/93 Lead O/S
with Tim Noble
daprince ?/Jun/93 -
Raggar 18/Apr/93 AltLd

led P2 - superb

with Clare M, Jon B
Hidden 24/May/92 Lead O/S
crater 18/Apr/92 AltLd O/S

finished in poor light

with Dave M
GAtkins 01/Apr/92 2nd O/S
with Tim Noble, Andy Russell, Nick Stenning
auld al ?/Apr/92 AltLd O/S
Budge ?/Apr/92 AltLd O/S
with Richard Teed
kennylind ??/1992 AltLd O/S
Marti999 ??/1992 Lead
with john
Hidden 05/Oct/91 Lead O/S
biggianthead ?/Jun/91 -
with G
RichardMc 30/Mar/91 AltLd
with Jon Clifford-Smith
George Ormerod 18/Aug/90 AltLd O/S
with Roger and Mat
GuyC 13/May/90 Lead O/S

Used up every bit of gear I had on traverse pitch, including prussiks, to protect 2nd

with Clare
TonyF ?/May/90 AltLd O/S
with Pete Scott
Hidden 01/Apr/90 Lead
Paul Clarke ??/1990 -
Bullybones ??/1990 -
ChesterChris ??/1990 -

nice stance before the vertical pitches start.

Chris Ebbutt ??/1990 AltLd
tapley 22/Oct/89 Lead
with Alison Tapley
keefe ??/1989 -
BigHairyIan 30/Dec/88 Lead O/S
with Alan Lilley (Thug)
Tony Buckley ?/Sep/87 AltLd

Finished in the dark!

Hidden ??/1984 -
Hidden 08/Aug/83 Lead O/S
The Reaper 03/Apr/83 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jan/83 Lead dnf
Nigel Bond 27/Jul/82 Lead
with Ben Foord
Nigel Bond 24/Aug/81 Lead
with Glyn Jones
Will Webb ?/Aug/81 -
with Nick Watkins
Mark Kemball 22/Apr/81 Solo
rogerskews 09/Aug/80 AltLd
with Keith Jenkins
Hidden ?/Jul/80 -
Chris Terrey ?/May/80 2nd
with Mike O'Brien, Mike Morrison
Nic Robinson 11/Apr/80 Solo O/S
Mike C 03/Nov/79 2nd
with Brian Wilderspin, Dave Winter
Brian Wilderspin 03/Nov/79 AltLd O/S
with Mike C, Dave Winter
duncan ?/Aug/79 AltLd
with Simon Reed
Hidden ?/Dec/78 Lead
Steve Woollard ??/1978 Lead
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