A big long lead for a young lad. © ian Ll-J
Dominating the Meuse, the 'Rochers de Freyr' is the most important climbing area in Belgium. The 120m high 'kalk' limestone site counts of 7 main crags and 8 secondary crags, with over 600 routes in all varieties. The routes are in all difficulties, from 3 to 8c. It is generally well bolted as the BRT regularly replaces bolts.
Freyr is very popular with Belgian, Dutch, and southern England climbers who hone their skills here on weekends before heading to Chamonix to tackle the Aiguilles. It's a great stop over point if driving through Europe. A 60m rope and 10-12 draws are all you need though some bring small wires to avoid the runouts.
The Freyr topo guidebook is available at climbing shops in Belgium or at the 'Bar Chamonix' located just above the crag. The topo is in French but the locals are pretty friendly and willing to provide beta. Don't miss the great Belgian beer over at the Cafe Chamonix. A good pint or two of Grimbergen Dubbel will quench the thirst of a thirsty climber!
Also worth checking out is the Falcon Guide, Rock Climbing Europe by Stewart M. Green, which offers a nice section on Freyr. Best of all it is in English with YDS ratings - very helpful.
Important! The crags are managed by the CABBAC. Access to the Colébi is strictly forbidden! Technically you must belong to an Alpine Club to climb there (AAC, BMC, DAV, BMC, CC etc). There is also a small camp ground and hut (hot shower at back!) at the top of the crag that can be used for 2 Euros per night. The crag guardian will come around to collect payment.
Belgian Alpine Club: http://www.clubalpin.be
Online climbing Guide (In French): http://www.ping.be/~ping1122/freyr/escalade.htm
Located 90 minutes SE of Brussels, this collection of towers and buttresses host a heap of steep routes on fine pocketed limestone. From Dinant, drive in direction of Beauring, via Anseremme. Continue up to the Plateau de Freyr and park the car opposite the Chamonix bar. All crags are situated on the west side of the road that overlooks the river.
Other Nearby Belgian Crags:
~Marche Les Dames - along the Meuse river east of Namur. A nice collection of one pitch wonders in the shade. The trade routes are slick but its worth a look. Hundreds of routes and crowded on weekends.
~Dave - south of Namur along the Meuse. A nice roadside crag with an equal portion of 2-3 pitch beginner routes and overhanging routes in the 6-7 range. Nice location if rain is expected.
~Yvoir (Rocher Paradou). A few minutes south of Dave lies this nice slab along the Meuse. 20-25 routes on quality rock (and a porta-john installed by the local alpine club). Camping nearby in Yvoir.
|Sadly, Cafe Le Chamonix burnt down a couple of months ago - just a shell remains. Hopefully the owners will restore it soon, since it was one of the best 'climber's' bars in Europe...|
Ben1983 - 22/Jul/13
|NOTE - according to the guide book "the grades are based on the french scale, only they have been revisited a la blege and are therefore slightly more severe". As some of the other comments have mentioned. if you're new to Freyr start off climbing the easier stuff to get a feel for the grading shift (i.e. a Blege 5c is more like a French 6c)|
Rob Hirst - 14/May/12