Climbs 79
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 194m a.s.l
Faces N

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A good new find on Goddard's Wall © andybirtwistle

Crag features

This is the huge open quarry on the other side of the road from the main Stoney crag. A series of different walls provide reasonable spread of well bolted, short and long, sport climbs at different parts of the quarry. Rock quality in most sectors is good though care should be taken on the big 15 Steps wall and it's probably sensible to wear a helmet and don't stand directly under a climber while belaying.

Most of the walls are face northward and receive no sun until evening, the exception being the aptly named Sunshine Wall which faces south. Stoat Wall gets sun from mid-afternoon.

Most of the development is fairly recent and ongoing and currently only Crustacean Wall is covered by any guidebooks. However up to date route information and topos for the other sectors can be found at sportsclimbs.co.uk.

Thanks to sportsclimbs.co.uk for providing much of the information here.

Approach notes

Park at the main Stoney car park. Walk up the dale about 50m and cross over a stile opposite the garage. Walk up the track and the Crustacean Wall soon appears at the top of the track.

Access Advice

No permission has been granted by the landowner for climbing access to this quarry.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 9 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies to the Sunshine Wall area on the northern quarry edge.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Seems to be an access issue - asked to leave on June 10th. A company have a years contract to "renovate" the quarry. BMC informed and are looking into the matter
uphillnow - 11/Jun/15
Climbed at the 'sunshine' wall on a rather grey and windy day - however this wall seems quite sheltered. Good set of routes worth a visit once they ve cleaned up.
najki_2000 - 17/May/15
A great addition to Stoney bolted routes. The lower section 'Crustaceans Wall' has several excellent 2 * routes or at least they will be when it dries out a bit and cleans up. The plantation area further up still needs to be logged on UKC but is another great sector. There is a third sector at the top end of the quarry which I guess has still to be revealed, looks like a bunch of 6's on decent rock. All in all a great set of routes. The plantation area grades will probably get a bit of adjusting as we almost on-sited two 7A's which doesn't happen! Probably 6c/6c+.
sishaw - 19/Apr/15
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Crustacean Wall
2 Nematodes 6a+ 59
3 Crustacean 7a+ * 44
4 Brachiopods Bite Back 6b+ * 136
5 Pearls from the Shell 6a+ * 125
6 Red Mist 7a 67
7 Corner, it is 6b 34
8 Corner, is it not 6a 31
9 Ledges they are
-
5b 12
10 Crack it is
-
VS 4c 1
11 The Turn On
-
6a+ 1
12 The Turn Off
-
6b+ 2
13 Tuned In
-
7a  
  15 Steps Wall
15 By Goddard 6b 13
16 Sheffield Tape Archive 6a+ * 23
17 15 Steps 6c * 48
18 Neon Boneyard
-
6b+ 3
19 Testing the Fossil 7a  
20 Fossilized 6c 2
21 Crinoid Corner 6a+  
22 Amanitas 6c+  
23 New Facts Emerge
-
6b+ 2
24 Goddard's Corner 6a+ * 7
25 Oh My Goddard 7a+  
26 For Goddard's Sake
-
7a+  
27 Goddard's Left-hand HVS 5a  
28 Goddard's Direct VS 4c  
29 Your Future Our Clutter * 6b * 3
Climb name Grade
30 Tower of Pain * 6a 2
  Stoat Wall
32 Boy Better Know 6a * 1
33 Weasel Assassin 7a+ * 3
34 Psycho Squirrel 7b * 4
35 Stoately Obvious 6b+ 2
36 Weasily Identifiable 6b+  
  Bay Area
38 Chief 6a+ * 1
39 Skyfall
-
6b+ 1
40 Buzzards Banquet
-
6a 1
41 Billy Bunter
-
5b 1
42 Architects Glasses
-
6a 1
43 Bon Marche
-
6a 1
44 Niggestone
-
6a+ 1
45 Knuckle Fucker
-
6a 1
46 Mumeration
-
6a 1
47 Banana Boat
-
5c 1
48 Pleather Madonna
-
6c  
49 Taco Bell
-
6b 1
50 Unnamed
-
6a+ 1
51 Top Knots and Tats
-
6a 1
52 Orange Tower
-
6c+  
  Plantation
54 Crozzles Away 6b 63
55 Clastic Rock 6b * 12
56 Pebbles Away 6b 63
57 Right Away 5c 9
58 Unbroken 7a+ * 8
Climb name Grade
59 3D Magic 6c * 19
60 Careless Tooth 6b+ 21
61 Not to be Drunken Away 7a+ 4
62 Heir Pit
-
6c+ * 22
63 The Bit Man
-
7a 5
64 Big Hare
-
6c+ * 19
65 Debrilliant 6c * 32
66 Careless Talc
-
6b+ 35
67 Mup me 5a 9
68 Strong Like Horse 6a 10
69 Tree Twister 6a+ * 5
70 Dendrophilia 6b+ * 5
71 Eticlac 6b 13
72 Underclac 6b 18
73 Style Scott 6b 7
74 Flabba Holt
-
6a 1
75 Junjo Laws
-
6a+ 1
  Sunshine Wall
77 Sun of a Gun
-
7a * 13
78 Sunny Side Up
-
6c 21
79 Here Comes The Sun
-
6b 28
80 Good Day Sunshine
-
6a 30
81 Goddard's Crack VS 4c 2
82 Chuckles Wall 6a+ 2
83 Sunhoney * 6a 1
  Upper Tier
85 Scoob Wall HVS 5a 1
86 Goddard's Groove MVS 4b 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers stp and Chris Craggs