Climbs 50
Rocktype UNKNOWN
Altitude 20m a.s.l
Faces S

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Double Overhang © Chad123

Crag features

Bouldering can be found at either end of Balaphuil Bay. We stayed at Mackay's Cottage at the East end and were amazed to find such good bouldering on our doorstep in the two bays below the cottage. Best rock quality is where the waves have given the cliffs a good scouring and the pinnacles are particularly good. Very varied with overhangs, glassy slabs and technical walls. Amazed it's not been written up before as we thought it was ace. Update, returned two years later in 2016 and still really impressed with quality of bouldering here, not much has changed since last visit. Did a couple of new problems similar to these ones. Pinnacle nearer beach now has bad landings and lots of rock pools. 2018 update, most problems still good, beach level has dropped slightly so some sit starts now standing starts. Also found a new sector 300m further east on most obvious big blocks. Last ten routes or so. Perfect rock but sadly landings not as good as original bay, either man eating trenches or a big pool under the best looking route, fishhook Arete which must be about 6B? No shortage of rock if you want to explore and nice break from the surfing or windsurfing!

Approach notes

Parking may be an issue as these are all private properties, if you park at the loch and access the beach that it's not much further to walk or alternatively stay at one of the lovely cottages and enjoy the 30s walk in!

Guidebooks

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Escalator V0- * 1
2 Mucky Chimney V0- * 1
3 Slabby Prow SS V1 ** 3
4 Slabby Prow V0 * 3
5 Lock and Load V3 * 1
6 Slippy Feet V2 3
7 Steep Prow SS V4 *** 4
8 Fingery Wall V4 ** 2
9 Fingery Wall RHS SS V2 * 3
10 Overhang SS V4 * 2
11 Double Overhang V1 ** 4
12 Chasm LHS SS V3 *** 2
13 Chasm RHS V1 * 3
14 Slabby Side Groove V0 * 3
15 Slabby Side Crack
-
V0- 1
16 Slabby Side Thin Groove SS
-
V0 * 1
17 Slabby Side main slab SS
-
V1 * 2
Climb name Grade
35 Pinnacle Right arete V0 * 2
36 Directissima V3 *** 2
37 Mental mantel V2 * 1
38 slippy groove and arete V2 * 1
39 crack and slab SS V1 ** 2
40 the prow SS V3 *** 2
41 Balancing Rock f5 * 1
42 Project f? **  
43 Leaning Block RH f5 * 1
44 Fishhook Arete f? ***  
45 Pool Wall f5 * 1
46 Pool Wall RH arete f4 1
47 Ship’s Prow f5 * 1
48 Crow’s Nest f5+ ** 1
49 Walk the plank f6A ** 1
50 Flipper f5+ * 1

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