Climbs 71
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 346m a.s.l
Faces S

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Lonny on Stubbins © andybirtwistle

Crag features

The quite extensive south face of this crag was first partially developed in 2008 by Swiss Climbers but never became popular. This was included in the 2010 guidebook but then mysteriously omitted from the 2015 edition despite much potential remaining here. A new sector, Milianos Cave higher up and clearly visible above the road was developed by Gary and Hazel Gibson and friends in October 2016. This sector faces east and becomes shady by 1pm. 

Approach notes

South Face (Crag) - Head through Arginonta and turn right onto the road that runs to Vathy. Drive up here to the high point then continue down the other side until the road starts to bend to the left. There are several tracks branching to the right here. Take the last of these (just before a small bridge), which runs up into the valley ahead. Drive up this to the clearing at its end or until your car won't go any further. Continue up and right on foot to reach the cliffs.

Cave - Head through Arginonta and turn right onto the road that runs to Vathy. Drive up here to the high point then continue down the other side until the road starts to bend to the left. There are several tracks branching to the right here. Take the last of these (just before a small bridge) which runs up into the valley ahead, then turn right again (before an old building), up a less good gravel track and park just short of another ruined building. A cairned path starts here and runs up the rough hillside, first direct and then trending away left to reach the left edge of the crag

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Guidebooks

Kalymnos

The latetst Rockfax print guidebook gives full coverage of the whole island. It is availabkle direct from the Rockfax web site. Also through the Rockfax app.
More info
More Guidebooks:

Out of print:
Kalymnos (2010)
Don't be put off by the comments in the Greek guide - the routes at Milianos Cave are on solid rock, are well bolted and are worth doing......
roger whetton - 20/Oct/18
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Milianos South Face
2 Pan Aroma 6a+ ** 1
3 Pan Orama 7a+ *  
4 Pan Dora 6b+ ** 1
5 Damoclese 6a  
6 Milonga 6a+ * 2
7 Madrugada 6a+ * 2
8 Karute 6a *  
9 Camille 6a ** 5
10 Claude 6b+ *  
11 Bronze Adonis 6c+ ** 1
12 Kung Fu International 6b+ *** 4
13 Beasley Street 6c+ ** 2
14 Mallorca 6c+ *** 1
15 I Don't Wanne be Nice 6b+ *** 2
16 Nothing 6c **  
17 Gimmix 6b *** 1
  Milianos Cave
19 One Off 4a  
20 Panty Flashyitis 4a 1
21 Whisp 5a * 5
22 That man and me 6a ** 16
23 752 5b ** 7
24 Pink Mist 5b ** 7
25 Jack's The Lad 6a *** 13
Climb name Grade
26 Tar That Man 6a ** 6
27 Scaphism 6a+ ** 6
28 Strappido
-
6b * 1
29 Ling Chi
-
6b * 2
30 Hang Man
-
6c *  
31 Teza 6c+ ** 3
32 Hornets a go-go 7a+ ** 7
33 Niko 7a+ *** 4
34 Battle Cry 7b **  
35 Mantis 7a+ ** 5
36 Korean Bodega 6c *** 11
37 Welcome to Poppy's 6c+ *** 8
38 Out of the Black 7a+ ** 5
39 Shoot at Will 6c+ *** 8
40 TPS 7a+ ** 2
41 Stubbins 6b ** 11
42 Polynesia 6b ** 8
43 Birty Bee 6c ** 4
44 Cheapside 6b ** 13
45 Duck Shoot 6a+ * 6
46 Shooting Gallery 6b ** 9
47 Always 6b+ ** 7
48 Sometimes 6c *** 27
49 Shotgun 7c * 2
50 Hunter killer 7b ** 4
Climb name Grade
51 Snap Shot 6b+ * 6
52 Tufa Shot 7a * 8
53 Sharp Shooter 6b+ *** 27
54 Run Rabbit, Run 6a ** 9
55 Calypso 6a+ *** 44
56 Calypso Extension 6c ** 14
57 Cocoa Nuts 6a *** 45
58 Purple Haze 6a *** 59
59 Five Tena Lady 6b+ ** 21
60 In Stealth She Is 6b+ ** 21
61 Bertie Baiting 6b+ ** 9
62 The Mercy Seat 6c ** 12
63 The Mersey Beat 7a ** 14
64 The Liver Bird 7a ** 18
65 Bang Bang 6c+ ** 16
66 BA Bonus 6c+ * 8
67 Dapper Dan 6a ** 26
68 Conquistadors of the Useless 5b ** 18
69 Ta GG 5b ** 9
70 Stiff V 5b ** 10
71 Anything 6a 3
72 Depends on Me 5a * 2
73 Always Everyday 5a * 3

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