Climbs 39
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces E

Olly finishing at Sheeps Tor © Matt Walters

Crag features

Excellent climbing for the lower-grade climber with routes up to 35ft. Eminently worthwhile routes despite the lack of height. Recommendations include Mushroom Wall (VS 4c) and Wind Wall (HVS 5a). Also Sheltered Crack (VD).

South Devon Mountaineering Club Topo can be found at: http://api.ning.com/files/3e*IS6iJr3KAg3bOnj3MZ1hCUvWDi94PmzRfoGuRWlNhBrdP10Qvhp-ojRwLUzzLNp3-YcKAtL729j5X6abusFeqNbg8*pXE/sheepstor_1_.pdf

Approach notes

From the village of Sheepstor, head N to another road (signposted The Kennels). This goes to within a few hundred metres of the tor.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Dartmoor (2017)
South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)
Plymouth University's Climbing Club (named Adventure and Expo) will be setting up top ropes here on the 10th and 11th of October in an effort to get more people into climbing! Just a heads up that the crag will be busy on those days
miltonwakefield - 22/Sep/15
ruined by top rope scum
Stanners - 27/Sep/14
Max it looks like Barking Variation VDiff. See the link above from the South Devon Mountaineering Club and it seems to be illustrated on their topo.
andrea83 - 12/May/13
Between Dandelion and Barking crack there is a leftward slanting flake. I would say about Severe grade. It is not on UKC or in the Cordee guide book. Anybody know if it has a name? Seems to obvious a feature not to.
Max Streeton - 03/Dec/12
The 'Windgather' of Devon, Polished.....
SGD - 18/Sep/11
Seems to be significantly more polished then when I first climbed here (2004ish), not surprising really considering its popularity.
Phil79 - 08/Jun/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Play Crack D 417
2 Long Route VD 91
3 Workers Wall HS 4a * 536
4 Fingerin'
-
HVS 5b 63
5 Crack & Chimney S 4a ** 759
6 Wind Wall HVS 5a * 496
7 Slab Route D ** 705
8 Slanting Crack S 4a 569
9 Mushroom Wall VS 5a * 684
10 Mushroom Wall Arete HS 5c * 35
11 Omega Crack HVD * 586
12 Burdock HS 4a * 619
13 Overhang Crack S 4a * 610
14 Dandelion S 4a * 644
15 Barking Crack HVD * 607
16 Sheltered Arete
-
E1 5b * 164
17 Sheltered Wall E1 5c 142
18 Sheltered Crack D 669
19 Flake Wall VD 39
20 Girdle Traverse
-
VS 4c 13
21 bracket wall
-
VD 56
22 Arete right of Sheltered Crack D 81
23 Snapdragon VD 58
24 Yogi Wall VD 42
25 The Mantleshelf D 36
26 Amanda V8 ** 2
27 Sherpa and Sherpe f6B ** 3
28 Early Topout Copout f6A 5
29 7up8Down f6A * 2
30 Like Kindred Spirits f7A+ *** 1
31 Crystal Showers f5+  
32 Grumpy Bitch f5+  
33 Shallow Corner VD * 54
34 Sit start to Mushroom Wall V2 5c 3
35 Thrutch HS 4c 12
36 Ivy Bend VD 4
37 Windy Corner *
-
M 10
38 Dandelion Variation HS 4b 7
39 Widow Maker * S 4a 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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