Climbs 4
Rocktype UNKNOWN
Altitude 283m a.s.l
Faces SE

Crag features

The crag has a sunny aspect & can be a bit of a sun trap, the rock is sound welsh grit, steep with excellent protection, there are four routes at present with scope for a few more, it may be worth mentioning there are good boulder walls to the left of the main face, n.b " an old peg indicates previous exploration".

Approach notes

From the A470 Dolgellau to Trawsfynydd road, turn off at Bronaber & go up through the holiday village, keep left & where the road forks keep r to reach a chapel on the left, go through the gate opposite the chapel up through the old firing range, through another gate to reach a small parking bay 2-3 cars.as for craig y penmaen. the track ( an old roman road ) becomes very rough from here so walk for 20 mins to where it drops down, the crag is over on the left, take a gap in the wall & faint path to the crag. The pleasant walk in offers panoramic views over the Rhinog Range. nb.click on comments for alternative approach.

Guidebooks

No guides found for this crag

By all means take the scenic route as described for the walk-in, but there is no need as the best way to get to the crag is to leave the A470 at OS Ref. SH 715 293, opposite Caeau Cochion. Follow the narrow tarmac road to its end just past Bwlch y Ffordd. Turn sharp left onto an unsurfaced council road, which can be legally driven, and after a few hundred metres a small parking bay is reached on the right just beyond a metal tank (OS Ref. SH 72232 29058). The crag is now directly in view. From here walk up the road to a gap in the wall, take a muddy track to a feint path which then descends to the crag. 10-15 mins from the car. Also there are *a lot* more climbs on this crag than just the 4 described climbs.
Dave Williams - 14/May/16
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Gain Groove S 4b 2
2 East of Eden S 4a 2
Climb name Grade
3 Myotis S 1
4 Arrow & Flake HVD 2

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