UKC

Climbs 183
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 568m a.s.l
Faces W

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Natalie Berry climbing Bricolage (7c+) on Sector Tocayo at Busot. © Alan James

Crag features

The big cliffs at Busot are a major addition to the climbing in the area. They are easily accessible and offer a superb range of climbing across the grades. The crag is in two distinct sections - the higher sector Tocayo which is the best section of cliff, and the larger but slightly more rambling main section. The latter presents a huge face with six developed walls spread across it. There is room for new routes here but most of the easily accessible lines have gone. Its position just minutes from the A-7 motorway means you can get here quickly from afar. There are also a couple more area in the vicinity with Coves de Canalobre and Cabezon de Oro just up the road.

Approach notes

For Sector Tocayo - From the big Busot roundabout, take the Cuevas del Canalobre exit. Follow the road for 2.2 km to an easy-to-miss right turn (signed 'PARTIDA PLÀ CABEÇÓ SECTOR I'). Almost immediately turn left and drive up the road for 1.7km to a large parking area on the right. Continue on foot up the track for 900m to a col then take a narrow path on the right (cairns) that heads up then out right to reach the base of the cliff.

For the rest of the crag - From the big Busot roundabout, take the Cuevas del Canalobre exit. Follow the road for 2.2 km to an easy-to-miss right turn (signed 'PARTIDA PLÀ CABEÇÓ SECTOR I'). Continue straight on, then round a right-hand and left-hand bend for 1.4km to parking in an old gravel pit on the left. Walk up the track for 140m to a left-hand bend where a small path continues straight on. Follow this as it weaves up to the cliff.

Access Advice

The path between sectors Carriere  and Cantera Baja has been closed by the quarry. 

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