Climbs 67
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 240m a.s.l
Faces W

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Steve Long enjoying the Welsh winter sun © Mike Raine

Crag features

A nice, easily accessible little Rhinog Grit outcrop in a lovely setting near the eastern shore of Llyn Trawsfynydd, with some excellent bouldering and trad climbing. An updated Interim guidebook is now available (2019). Details below.

Trad Climbing: All the routes on the main crag are confusingly described from right to left in the current CC Meirionydd guidebook, but below they are correctly listed from left to right. Some recent grade revisions affecting a number of the older routes have been made by the area guidebook team in 2013 and again in 2019.

Bouldering: The bouldering area has been visited for a long period of time; probably in excess of 20 years. All well and good claiming FAs of 'new' boulder problems but, in reality, who knows..... For further information, see North Wales Bouldering (2nd ed. 2017) by Si Panton; published by Ground Up Productions Ltd.

The crag is wrongly named in both Meirionnydd and on OS maps; the correct name being Carreg yr Ogof

Be wary of adders in summer months.

 

Free Carreg yr Ogof Interim Guidebook (2019):

https://steepstoneclimbing.co.uk/pdf-files




 

Approach notes

The crag is on access land and is located just west of Trawsfynydd village, which is just off the A470. Trawsfynydd is some 20 minutes drive to the south of Tremadog. 

For detailed approach information, see either Steep Stone's Interim Carreg yr Ogof Guidebook 2019CC Meirionnydd 2002 or GU North Wales Bouldering 2017.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 First Fright
-
VD 28
2 Children of Lir VS 4c * 21
3 Alive Enough to Spawn
-
D 27
4 Toxic Texan
-
VD 33
5 Training Spotters E2 5c/6a * 10
6 First Flight HVS 5a ** 41
7 The Wrath of Cian E1 5b 15
8 And Goats Do Roam VS 4c * 20
9 Far for the Fledgling S * 51
10 One Move Wonder VS 5b 7
11 Rusty Chopper HVS 4c 6
12 Bloodscream
-
E2 6a * 9
13 Bloodsqueal V2 ** 10
14 The Slap of One Hand Sighing
-
HVS 5b 9
15 Spreading Mischief
-
HVS 5b 5
16 When the Rock Crows
-
E4 6a * 1
17 Armless Antics V0 8
18 Belly's Gonna Get Ya! V2 ** 3
19 Goldfish Delight V1 4
20 Smear Test V1 6
21 Celibacy V2 5
22 Pussy Out V1 5
23 Sam and Steve Go to Funky Town V3 3
Climb name Grade
47 Arabic Traverse f6B 2
48 Fontainfynydd f3  
49 Trawsnewid f6A ** 16
50 P9 (North Wales Bouldering 2nd edition) f4+ ** 9
51 Isgoed f4+ ** 10
52 P13 (North Wales Bouldering 2nd edition) f4+ ** 9
53 Ching Aling Aling f6C * 7
54 The subtle knife f5+ ** 8
55 5a f4 5a ** 6
56 Eliminate wall f6A 1
57 The other 5a f4 5a ** 8
58 The other 5a sds f6A 3
59 6b Link f6B * 2
60 Dafydds groove f5+ ** 9
61 Dafydds groove sds
-
f7A ** 5
62 Water water everywhere but not a drop to drink. f6B+ 1
63 Magos arete f6A ** 6
64 Mr stumpy f6B+ * 4
65 Su mai wa f6B+ * 3
66 Joshkin f6A 6
67 Magnox Arete SDS * f6B+ ** 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Dave Williams