Climbs 79
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 28m a.s.l
Faces E

Crag features

The limestone tower situated in red wharf bay, Anglesey offers great bouldering on solid rock. It has the benefit of remaining dry (most) of the time when other venues are effected by seepage. Some classics at the crag are 'flowstoned' which goes around  f6c , 'illinois enema bandit traverse' and 'herberts problem'. There are a couple of long link ups here that due to their length would better be suited to French sport grades.

All climbs are described from left to right. For identification purposes, the best location point is the obvious book corner of black smoke rising. The illinois wall is its lefthand side and left again round the arete is the smurf snogging wall. The right wall of the corner is traversed by Herbert's problem.

The link ups start from established problems and are self explanatory once familiar with the area.

Approach notes

To approach the crag ,  park at the obvious car park near 'the boathouse' cafe. Walk leftwards across the bay towards the limestone tower until you see a corroded muddy path on your left .pull onto the headland carefully, avoiding causing any further erosion to the old coastal path and follow a vague path up left to the first cave entrance. Go through and just further along is the open book corner of black smoke rising.

Restricted Access

Nesting birds on the top so no routes. Bouldering is OK according to the land owner

Guidebooks

No guides found for this crag

Hi Ian Thank you for your emails your lines sounded cool, they have been added and credited man, thanks again. Lee
leewil86 - 18/Mar/19
Please specify your FAs Ian....As there was not that much chalk when we returned , we have photos of 'your' chalk marks , we noticed a bit of chalk in the cave coming out and ending on a small pebble (that is no longer there) and on a crimp next to it we also noticed the first few moves of the right wall traverse called Herbert's problem but it went no further as there was still ivy along head wall.
leewil86 - 18/Mar/19
Wow, just spotted your photos, I was developing this venue In January, the chalk marks were mine! I did a lot of rubbish clearing, ivy clearing and climbed a few of the lines. Others were projects I was hoping to return to when I'm back fro working in Norway!! So some First Ascents hould read Ian Lloyd-Jones January 2019
Sl@te Head - 18/Mar/19
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The rampart
2 Portcullis f4 * 1
3 Portcullis direct. f4+ * 1
4 Trebuchet f5 5a * 1
5 Seige tactics f5 5a * 1
6 Rampart rabbit f5+ 1
  Castell central
8 Smurf snogging f5 2
9 Dont go all flakey on me f5+ * 2
10 Dont go all flakey on me sds f6A+ * 1
11 Skyball f3 * 2
12 The highball experience entrance exam f2+ * 2
13 Pete's extension traverse f7A+ 1
14 Dive bomber f6A+ 1
15 Flowstoned f6C ** 4
16 Extreme ways f7A+  
17 Illinois Enema Bandit Traverse f6B * 3
18 Illinos Enema Bandit Sit Start f6B+ 1
19 Enema enigma variations f6C * 1
20 black smoke rising f5 2
21 Cooler shaper f6A+ ** 1
22 Pete's original traverse f7A * 1
23 Herberts problem f6A ** 4
24 Herbert's sds f6C 1
25 Your Mums (crack) f5+ 1
26 Flake Problem f5 1
27 Out of bounds. f5 1
28 Naths wall f6A 1
29 Phils wall f6C 1
Climb name Grade
59 Elasticband f7A+ ** 1
60 The cooler link up 1 f7A ** 1
61 The cooler link up 2 f7A+ ** 1
62 King of the castell f7B *** 1
  Bay of pygs
64 Peppa pyg f5+ * 1
  Fluted wall
66 Drop knees not bombs f5 * 2
67 Drop dead f6A * 1
68 Reach further for the pie f5 * 1
69 Reach for the pie f4 * 3
70 The drop knee traverse f5 * 4
71 Moby dick f4+ 3
72 The ladder of glory f4 * 2
73 The fluted wall eliminate f6A ** 2
74 The north wales crushers 2020 calender. f6B ** 1
75 Butter knife f6A+ ** 2
76 Butter knife eliminate f6B+ * 1
77 Pillar front f3 1
  The Fluted wall link ups
79 Drop knife f6B+ ** 1
80 Flick knife f6B * 1
81 Drop for glory f5 * 2
82 Drop knee pillar f5 * 1
  Jon's wall
84 Tweeker f6B * 1
85 Jon's route 1 f5 5b ** 1
86 Jon's route 2 f6B+ * 1

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