Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 28m a.s.l
The limestone tower situated in red wharf bay, Anglesey offers great bouldering on solid rock. It has the benefit of remaining dry (most) of the time when other venues are effected by seepage. Some classics at the crag are 'flowstoned' which goes around f6c , 'illinois enema bandit traverse' and 'herberts problem'. There are a couple of long link ups here that due to their length would better be suited to French sport grades.
All climbs are described from left to right. For identification purposes, the best location point is the obvious book corner of black smoke rising. The illinois wall is its lefthand side and left again round the arete is the smurf snogging wall. The right wall of the corner is traversed by Herbert's problem.
The link ups start from established problems and are self explanatory once familiar with the area.
To approach the crag , park at the obvious car park near 'the boathouse' cafe. Walk leftwards across the bay towards the limestone tower until you see a corroded muddy path on your left .pull onto the headland carefully, avoiding causing any further erosion to the old coastal path and follow a vague path up left to the first cave entrance. Go through and just further along is the open book corner of black smoke rising.
Nesting birds on the top so no routes. Bouldering is OK according to the land owner
No guides found for this crag
Thank you for your emails your lines sounded cool, they have been added and credited man, thanks again.
leewil86 - 18/Mar/19
|Please specify your FAs Ian....As there was not that much chalk when we returned , we have photos of 'your' chalk marks , we noticed a bit of chalk in the cave coming out and ending on a small pebble (that is no longer there) and on a crimp next to it we also noticed the first few moves of the right wall traverse called Herbert's problem but it went no further as there was still ivy along head wall. |
leewil86 - 18/Mar/19
|Wow, just spotted your photos, I was developing this venue In January, the chalk marks were mine! I did a lot of rubbish clearing, ivy clearing and climbed a few of the lines. Others were projects I was hoping to return to when I'm back fro working in Norway!! So some First Ascents hould read Ian Lloyd-Jones January 2019|
Sl@te Head - 18/Mar/19