Climbs 64
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 357m a.s.l
Faces SE

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White Streak © Tris

Crag features

An impressive, multi-faceted crag which dominates the skyline as it stands sentinel high above Dolrhedyn hamlet on the outskirts of Tan y Grisiau. Craig yr Wrysgan (Crag of the Bushes) is the closest Moelwynion crag to the car park and has several great routes - both single and multi-pitch - at a range of grades as well as an unusual, fun descent. Less popular, but no less worthy, than its near neighbour Craig yr Oen and probably all the better for it, as Craig yr Wrysgan doesn't suffer from the degredation and despoilation caused by centre and other organised groups who regularly monopolise and over use Craig yr Oen for training purposes.

As with virtually all Moelwynion cliffs, compared to Ogwen or the Llanberis Pass, this crag is a quiet backwater and is good choice of venue for escaping the crowds. Both the views and positions are quite spectacular. The rock, a rhyolitic tuff, is excellent, has many gas pocket holds, is very quartzy in places and can be climbed in the damp. Other than the obvious gutter lines, most routes dry quickly after any rain.

There are many fine routes here, although the excellent two star White Streak-Honeysuckle Corner combo (HS 4b) is probably the crag's must-do climb. Its memorably bold and gas pocket endowed slab offers a huge contrast to the final, steep, rather intimidating but very well-protected corner.Y Gelynen (VD) is also very good  and The Green Wall (E3/4 5c) would definitely be both classic and popular at the grade if it was transposed to the Pass or Tremadog.

Despite having some good and interesting climbing, the upper crag of Craig yr Wrysgan Uchaf is far less popular.

Descent:

A long, easy descent may be made well to the right of the crag, eventually via a short grassy gully to the right of Y Gilfach, although the most memorable and novel descent is to walk down to the uppermost level of the long-disused Wrysgan slate mine and then continue descending via the incline tunnel. From the warning sign next to the tunnel's lower portal, a straightforward climbers' path continues down to the base of the crag.

Approach notes

There are two possible approaches:

[1] From the car park above Dolrhedyn, immediately beneath the disused  Cwm Orthin slate quarry tips, follow the obvious path across the bridge over the stream which leads onto a private tarmac road. Walk up this for a short distance and then walk up the incline towards the tunnel until it is possible to traverse right towards the base of the crag.

[2] RECOMMENDED: Walk up the Cwm Orthin slate mine track, right of the stream, for a few minutes until a deep pool can be seen on the left just before the track levels out. Bear left and cross the stream just above the pool and follow the obvious grassy rake which leads up the craggy hillside to the base of the crag. There is a faint but discernible path to follow. This approach can be boggy in places (avoidable by keeping right), but is a far more pleasant approach than via the incline.

Approximately 15-20 minutes by either approach.

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Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
North Wales Rock (2006)
Meirionnydd (2002)
Tremadog and Cwm Silyn (1989) (1989)

Out of print:
Tremadog (1983)
The upper crag has now been added to the lower tier to stop duplications being added, also for conciseness.
Matt Smith - 19/Dec/14
What an amazing descent path down through the tunnel - go towards the light!
TraceyR - 18/Oct/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Y Taith HS 4b  
2 Y Drafel VD 5
3 Agog
-
VD 1
4 Agog (Tower Finish)
-
HS 4b 5
5 Daufaen S * 46
6 Honeysuckle Corner
-
HS 4b ** 258
7 The White Streak
-
HS 4a * 256
8 White Streak/Honeysuckle Corner HS 4b ** 107
9 Y Gelynen VD ** 316
10 Y Gelynen (Severe Finish) S 4a ** 82
11 Bad Reputation
-
VS 1
12 Condor E1 5b ** 81
13 Conrod
-
E3 5c  
14 Dorcon VS 4b * 92
15 Taith Y Pererin D 11
16 Grey Slab
-
S 17
17 Mistral
-
VS 4c * 21
18 Hot Pants VS 4b 2
19 Swallowed by Amazons
-
E4 5c *  
20 The Green Wall E3 5c ** 33
21 Nosferatu
-
E3 5c ** 25
22 Gethsemane HVS 5a  
Climb name Grade
23 Scallywag
-
E5 6a  
24 Bing the Budgie
-
E4 6a * 1
25 The Wanderer
-
HVS 5a  
26 Space Below My Feet HVS 5a * 75
27 Romulus
-
VD 1
28 Babylon
-
VD 14
29 Y Lloer
-
VS 4c 3
30 Y Gilfach VD ** 81
31 Stained Class
-
HVS 5b 1
32 Wry Smile HS 4a  
33 Transform VS 4a  
34 Red Steps VD 1
35 Whale of a Time VS 4c  
36 No Hands S 1
37 Twmpathau S  
  Craig yr Wrysgan Uchaf
39 D.Y.W.A.M
-
VD 4
40 Cave Arete
-
D * 9
41 Headcross
-
D 2
42 No Thanks VD 1
43 Cat Walk
-
S 4a * 3
44 Twelve Monkeys
-
E1 5b  
Climb name Grade
45 Yoghurt Miscellaneous
-
VD 1
46 Eat the Peach
-
E1 5b *  
47 Ecology of Fear
-
E5 6a  
48 Peachstone E4 6a ** 1
49 Peach Melba
-
E3 5c  
50 Ash Tree Slabs
-
VD  
51 Dentist's Debut
-
HS 1
52 Buzby
-
HVS 4
53 Hailing the Alien
-
E2 5c  
54 Kiss Kinky Boots Night Night
-
E1 5b  
55 The Ailing Alien
-
E2 5c  
56 Chim Chu Roo
-
HVS 4c  
57 Neusk Prospect E3 6a *  
58 Sasquatch
-
E3 5c  
59 The Thin Flim-Flan Man
-
E3 6a  
60 Dislocation
-
HVS 5b * 8
61 Cuchulainn
-
E4 6a * 1
62 Louis Wilder
-
E5 6a  
63 Wall of Ghouls
-
E3 6a  
64 Gremlin Groove
-
E1 5b 1
65 Elf Wall
-
E3 5b  

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