Climbs 189
Rocktype Limestone

Pitch 1, Crumble. © deepstar

Crag features

Leigh Woods is owned and managed by the National Trust which permits climbing on a conditional basis. Read the access notes carefully, this is a sensitve site for conservation.

Approach notes

The furthest north quarry can be accessed from the towpath by the river. The rest of the routes can only be accessed by coming down through Leigh Woods. Do not cross the railway line. 

Access Advice

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies to Quarry 4, where the peregrines that were previously nesting on Main Wall in the Avon Gorge have relocated to.

Guidebooks

Wow! I am really impressed by the shear volume of climbing here. :O
That Dude With The Beanie - 12/Apr/17
Hold your horses, it is almost definitely going in the new Avon guide. Theres a lot of rare plants and trees in the quarries so much surveying and negotiation is going on.
Mark Davies PK - 04/Aug/14
why is climbing discouraged here but tree climbing is encouraged and mountain biking celebrated? having just climbed a lovely little route here maybe its time to go public with the rest.
leland stamper - 03/Aug/14
The "secret" part of Leigh woods is going to be well worth several visits once all is revealed. Seriously can't wait!
Stanners - 16/May/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Donkey Slide
2 A
-
V0+ 5b 6
3 B
-
V3 6a 5
4 C
-
V3 6a 2
5 D
-
V1 5b/c 2
6 E
-
V2 5c 2
7 F
-
V2 5c 1
8 G
-
V1 5c 2
9 H
-
V3 6a 1
10 EMZwaves
-
E3 6a 1
11 Return of the Donkey
-
E4 5c 1
12 Fanfare for the Common Man
-
E5 6b 1
13 Tribute to Sir KB
-
E3 5b 1
14 Bonzai
-
E4 6a 1
15 On the Slide E4 6a * 1
16 Noisy & Nosey
-
E3 5c 1
17 Donkey Slide Traverse V5 *** 3
18 Put a Donk on it E4 6a 1
  Coffee House Crag
20 Black Slab
-
HS 4a 2
21 DoDo
-
S 1
22 Flamingo Wall
-
S 4a 3
23 Amaranth Rib
-
S 3
  Railway Tunnel Buttress
25 Girls on Top
-
E2 5b  
26 The Anderson Tapes
-
E2 5c  
  Quarry 5
28 Itmek
-
VS 4c  
29 No Time to Wobble
-
E3 5b  
30 Square Cut
-
S 1
31 Arête With Cave
-
HS 4a * 2
32 Golden Spectre
-
HVS 5a * 1
33 A Symptom of the Moral Decay
-
E4 6a *  
34 Disrespectful Youth
-
E5 6a ***  
35 How'ard Hughes
-
E5 6a  
36 It's Fun Finding Out
-
E3 6a * 1
37 Looking Good Houston
-
E5 6b  
38 Bristolland
-
VS 4a 2
39 Pteridophyte
-
VD 1
40 Sunlit Rib
-
VD 1
41 UCC
-
HVS 5a  
42 Cantata Crack
-
VS 4b  
43 Better the Doubt
-
E2 5c  
44 Robertson Reunited E5 6b * 1
45 Memory in Stuck Position
-
E5 6b  
46 Rustyback
-
E4 6a  
47 Fractured Crack HVS 5a * 8
48 Bristol Rebel City
-
E2 5c 2
49 Resurrection Crack E1 5a * 6
50 Walk on the Wild Side
-
E1 5b  
51 Hemp and Classic Abseils E2 5c 1
52 Stalactite Wall
-
VS 4c *  
53 Quartet for the End of Time
-
E5 6b  
54 The Long Ashton Peg Fiend E7 6c * 1
55 Plebgate
-
E5 6a  
56 Madiba
-
E3 5b  
57 Little Miss Dynamite
-
E5 6b  
58 Gravity
-
E6 6b  
59 Elizabethan Serenade
-
E3 5c  
60 Not to Be Taken When Nesting
-
E3 5c  
61 Tickin' Time Bomb
-
E6 6b  
62 Blacklash
-
E6 6a  
63 Yer Tiz
-
E5 6a *  
64 Lady of Satan
-
E3 5b ** 2
65 Red Planet
-
E5 6a  
66 Demogod E1 5a * 5
67 Cash for Questions
-
E3 6a  
68 Marven
-
E4 6a  
69 Passionate Obelisk/Heavenly Entry
-
E2 5b  
70 Is What It Is
-
E3 6a  
71 Rock the Seventies
-
E2 5b  
72 Once Upon a Time in the West
-
E4 6a  
73 Stalag Luft 111
-
E5 6c  
74 Scuff Missile
-
E4 6b  
75 Name's Slick
-
E3 5c  
76 erre es korakas!
-
E4 6a  
  Quarry 4
78 T'ole Bogger
-
VS 5a  
79 The Letcher
-
XS 6a  
80 Samson
-
HVS 5a  
81 Star of Africa
-
E5 6a 3
82 Countess of Caress
-
HVS 4c  
83 Her Crystal Touch
-
E3 5c  
84 Footloose
-
HS 4a  
85 Trick or Treat
-
E2 5c  
86 Artist on a Bike
-
E2 6b  
87 An Outbreak of Tree Labels
-
E1 5b  
88 LHO
-
E2 5b  
89 Surprising climb in bagging area E2 5b/c * 1
90 Legacy
-
V7 * 1
91 Cheese Rolling
-
VS 5a 2
92 Opening Ceremony
-
HVS 5b 1
93 Personal Best
-
E3 5b * 1
94 Wee Things
-
E3 6a 1
95 Fastest Looser
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E1 5b 1
96 Closing Ceremony
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E2 5b 1
97 Little Olympia
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V1 1
98 Leapfrog
-
V2 1
99 Quantum Leap
-
V3 1
100 Leapstick
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V2 1
101 Wee Nessie
-
V0 1
102 Winters' Leap
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V1 1
  Quarry 3
104 Another Name on the Wall 4a * 38
105 See the Bigger Picture
-
6a 43
106 Bell Curve Beauty
-
6b 19
107 Another Day in the Office
-
6a+ * 34
108 'No Good Deed Goes Unpunished'
-
6b+ 12
109 The Wally Reflector
-
6b+ * 23
110 Customer Care 5a 28
111 Ideas of F
-
6b+  
112 Push The Sky Away
-
6b+ *** 46
113 Loozaloopa
-
7a * 17
114 Catch a Thief
-
6c+ ** 12
115 Serious Monster Issues
-
7a+ 3
116 Thirty-nine Year War
-
6c 5
117 Fear No Evil 6b * 23
118 A Song For the Shadows
-
6b+ * 3
119 7/7
-
6c 2
120 Run for the Shadows
-
6c 1
121 Graffiti Rock
-
6c+ 1
122 Lure of Garrdevarre
-
6c+  
123 Passage to India 6a * 46
124 Save Me from This Rain!
-
6a 21
125 Ice Lake Night
-
6b+ * 15
126 Think outside of the Book
-
6c 8
127 The Carrick Roads
-
6a * 33
128 Bye Big Benn
-
E2 5b  
129 Big Girl's Blouse
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6b+ * 8
130 Tea at the Ritz 6b+ 11
131 Blob Factor
-
E2 5c 1
132 Gonzo Reunited
-
E1 5b 1
133 Comedown Country
-
E3 6a  
  Quarry 2
135 Mosquitoes and Ticks
-
VS 4c 4
136 Curse of the French Biscuits
-
E1 5a 2
137 Lovely Bones
-
HVS 4c 2
138 Queen of Disco
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E2 5c * 3
139 Child's Crown
-
VS 4c 2
140 Precious Little
-
E3 5c * 4
141 A Tick in the Scrotum is Worth Two in the Bush
-
HVS 5a 1
142 TickJob
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HVS 4c 1
143 Boxing With Shadows
-
E2 6b 1
144 Croix de Guerre
-
E1 5b 1
145 Joie du Maquis
-
E5 6a  
146 Cotoneaster Holiday
-
E3 5b  
147 Fir Tree Grooves
-
S 4a  
148 Pottering
-
E1 5c 1
149 The Delightful Stain
-
E2 5b 1
150 A Good Day to Die
-
E3 5b  
151 Collywobbles
-
E3 6a  
152 Ripped Off
-
E3 6a *  
153 Swiss Steel
-
7a  
154 A Piece of the Sky
-
E4 5c  
155 Blood Sweat and Smears
-
E2 6a  
156 Spinning Wheel
-
E3 5b  
157 Hi-De-Ho
-
HVS 4c 1
158 Go Down Gamblin'
-
E4 6a 1
159 God Particle
-
E3 5c * 1
160 Poor Housekeeping
-
E3 5c 1
161 Schrödinger's Cat
-
E5 6b  
162 Paraphernalia E3 6a * 2
163 Club Chemistry
-
E5 6b  
164 Hangover
-
E2 5b 1
165 Now the Party's Over
-
E3 6a 1
166 Crashin' Out
-
E5 6a 1
167 Ceaselessly Stalking Crocker
-
E2 5c 2
168 The Dustbuster E2 5c 3
169 Hurricane Fly E3 5b 5
170 Are You Experienced?
-
E5 6a 3
171 Evil Edna E4 5c ** 9
172 Kapiche
-
E5 6a 4
173 Secret Art
-
E5 6a 3
174 Caroline Watches the Fun
-
E2 5c 8
175 Pump Factory
-
E5 6a  
176 Flying the B-52 6c 2
177 The Illusion of Complicity 7c+ ** 7
178 More Thrust Scotty!
-
E1 5c 10
179 Aye Captain!
-
E2 6a 1
  Quarry 1
181 How to Butcher a Wood Pigeon HS 3c 3
182 Flatliner
-
E4 6a  
183 Set Your Controls
-
E1 5b ** 3
184 Ides Of March
-
E5 6b *  
185 Ayes to the Right
-
E5 6a  
186 Domitian
-
E1 5b * 1
187 The Fathomless Aurora
-
E2 5b  
188 Black Sheep
-
7b+ 3
189 Black Sheet
-
E5 6c *  
190 Brubeck Fingers
-
7c  
191 Crumble HS 4b * 19
192 Crumble Integrale
-
HVS 5a * 1
193 Explosion Groove
-
HS 4a  
194 Crying Beasts
-
VS 4a  
195 West Side Story
-
S 4a  
196 En animato
-
6c  
197 Un poco mosso
-
6a  

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