Climbs 228
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 99m a.s.l
Faces all

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Pitch 1, Crumble. © deepstar

Crag features

Leigh Woods is owned and managed by the National Trust which permits climbing on a conditional basis. Read the access notes carefully, this is a sensitive site for conservation.

Access Advice

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 20 April to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies to the whole of Quarry 5, where the peregrines that were previously nesting on Avon Gorge Main Wall have relocated to.

Guidebooks

Quarry 5 is massively vegetated. Walking to the upper tiers is a dirty adventure. Grey wall is bold, except for the a couple of routes at the left where there is protection but rock is loose. The main section would be nice to have it bolted. Maybe it does a few worthwhile routes. I think that going bold, putting shitty or no protection, until you find a couple of pitons for the crux, it is not what trad is about. It is just nonsense, unnecessary risk.
FerClimbs - 04/Jul/19
There are birds nesting in the far right section of quarry 3. Avoid climbing here for at least 8 weeks i.e. wait until mid june
jld579 - 27/Apr/18
Wow! I am really impressed by the shear volume of climbing here. :O
That Dude With The Beanie - 12/Apr/17
Hold your horses, it is almost definitely going in the new Avon guide. Theres a lot of rare plants and trees in the quarries so much surveying and negotiation is going on.
Mark Davies PK - 04/Aug/14
why is climbing discouraged here but tree climbing is encouraged and mountain biking celebrated? having just climbed a lovely little route here maybe its time to go public with the rest.
leland stamper - 03/Aug/14
The "secret" part of Leigh woods is going to be well worth several visits once all is revealed. Seriously can't wait!
Stanners - 16/May/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Burwalls Wood Cave
2 The Twilight Zone
-
E6 6b  
3 Far from the Madding Crowd
-
E2 5c  
  The Donkey Slide
5 A
-
V0+ 10
6 B
-
V3 6
7 C
-
V3 3
8 D
-
V1 3
9 E
-
V2 3
10 F
-
V2 2
11 G
-
V1 4
12 H
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V3 2
13 EMZwaves
-
E3 6a 1
14 Return of the Donkey
-
E4 5c 1
15 Fanfare for the Common Man
-
E5 6b 1
16 Tribute to Sir KB
-
E3 5b 1
17 Bonzai
-
E4 6a 1
18 On the Slide E4 6a * 1
19 Noisy & Nosey
-
E3 5c 1
20 Psilocybe Semilameata
-
E3 5c  
21 Put a Donk on it E4 6a 1
22 Lowest Level Traverse
-
V5 *** 6
23 Mid-level Traverse
-
V6  
  Stokeleigh Edge
25 Brunel or Bunuel?
-
E5 6b  
26 True Wheel
-
HVS 5a  
27 Black Sabbath
-
HVS 5a  
  Blockhouse Slope
29 A
-
none 5c  
30 B
-
none 6a *  
31 C
-
none 6a  
32 D
-
none 5a * 1
33 E
-
none 4c  
34 F
-
none 4c  
35 G
-
none 5b  
36 H
-
none 5b  
37 I - Diamonds are Forever
-
none 4c  
38 J
-
none 4b  
39 K
-
HVS 4c  
40 L
-
E1 5a  
41 M
-
E1 5c  
42 N
-
E1 5a  
43 O
-
VS 4b  
44 Hotrod
-
E2 5b  
45 Fast and Furious
-
E2 6a *  
46 Blockhouse Rock
-
E2 6b  
47 Barndoor Dance
-
E3 6b * 1
48 Calcite Wall Traverse none 6a  
  Coffee House Crag
50 Black Slab
-
HS 4a 2
51 DoDo
-
S 3
52 Flamingo Wall
-
S 4a 5
53 Amaranth Rib
-
S 3
  Railway Tunnel Buttress
55 Girls on Top
-
E2 5b  
56 The Anderson Tapes
-
E2 5c  
  Quarry 5
58 Tunnel of Love
-
VS 4c  
59 Puffin' Illy
-
S  
60 Vibrator
-
HS 4a  
61 Itmek
-
VS 4c  
62 No Time to Wobble
-
E3 5b  
63 Square Cut
-
S 2
64 ArĂȘte With Cave
-
HS 4a * 7
65 Golden Spectre
-
HVS 5a * 3
66 A Symptom of the Moral Decay
-
E4 6a *  
67 Disrespectful Youth
-
E5 6b ***  
68 How'ard Hughes
-
E5 6a  
69 It's Fun Finding Out
-
E3 6a * 1
70 Looking Good Houston
-
E5 6b  
71 Bristolland
-
VS 4a 2
72 Pteridophyte
-
VD 1
73 Sunlit Rib
-
VD 1
74 UCC
-
HVS 5a  
75 Cantata Crack
-
VS 4b  
76 Better the Doubt
-
E2 5c 3
77 Robertson Reunited E5 6b * 1
78 Memory in Stuck Position
-
E5 6b 1
79 Rustyback
-
E4 6a 1
80 Fractured Crack HVS 5a * 10
Climb name Grade
81 Bristol Rebel City
-
E2 5c 6
82 Resurrection Crack E1 5a * 14
83 Walk on the Wild Side
-
E1 5b 2
84 Hemp and Classic Abseils E2 5c 5
85 Stalactite Wall
-
VS 4c * 2
86 Quartet for the End of Time
-
E5 6b  
87 The Long Ashton Peg Fiend E7 6c * 1
88 Plebgate
-
E5 6a  
89 Madiba
-
E3 5b  
90 Little Miss Dynamite
-
E5 6b 2
91 Gravity
-
E6 6b  
92 Elizabethan Serenade
-
E3 5c  
93 Not to Be Taken When Nesting
-
E3 5c  
94 Tickin' Time Bomb E6 6b 1
95 Blacklash
-
E6 6a 1
96 Yer Tiz
-
E5 6a * 1
97 Lady of Satan
-
E3 5b ** 2
98 Red Planet
-
E5 6a  
99 Demogod E1 5a * 11
100 Finish for Atheists
-
E3 5b  
101 Cash for Questions
-
E3 6a  
102 Marven
-
E4 6a  
103 Passionate Obelisk/Heavenly Entry
-
E2 5b 2
104 Is What It Is
-
E3 6a 2
105 Think Global Climb Local E3 6a 2
106 Rock the Seventies
-
E2 5b 2
107 Once Upon a Time in the West
-
E4 6a  
108 Stalag Luft 111
-
E5 6c  
109 Scuff Missile
-
E4 6b  
110 Name's Slick
-
E3 5c 3
111 erre es korakas!
-
E4 6a  
  Quarry 4
113 T'ole Bogger
-
VS 5a  
114 The Letcher
-
XS 6a  
115 Samson
-
HVS 5a  
116 Perpetual Change
-
HVS  
117 Star of Africa
-
E5 6a 2
118 Countess of Caress
-
HVS 4c  
119 Her Crystal Touch
-
E3 5c  
120 Swarovski Slab E7 6c * 1
121 Footloose
-
HS 4a  
122 Trick or Treat
-
E2 5c  
123 Artist on a Bike
-
E2 6b  
124 An Outbreak of Tree Labels
-
E1 5b  
125 LHO
-
E2 5b  
126 Surprising Climb in Bagging Area E2 5b/c * 1
127 Legacy
-
V7 * 1
128 Cheese Rolling
-
VS 5a 2
129 Opening Ceremony
-
HVS 5b 1
130 Personal Best
-
E3 5b * 1
131 Wee Things
-
E3 6a 1
132 Fastest Looser
-
E1 5b 1
133 Death by Olympics
-
E2 5c  
134 Closing Ceremony
-
E2 5b 1
135 Little Olympia
-
V1 2
136 Leapfrog
-
V2 1
137 Quantum Leap
-
V3 1
138 Leapstick
-
V2 1
139 Wee Nessie
-
V0 2
140 Winters' Leap
-
V1 1
  Quarry 3
142 Another Name on the Wall
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4a * 78
143 See the Bigger Picture
-
6a 71
144 Bell Curve Beauty
-
6b 44
145 Another Day in the Office
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6a+ * 70
146 'No Good Deed Goes Unpunished'
-
6b+ 29
147 The Wally Reflector
-
6b+ * 42
148 The Better 6b+ 4
149 Customer Care
-
5a 49
150 Ideas of F
-
6b+ 1
151 Push the Sky Away
-
6b+ *** 80
152 Loozaloopa
-
7a * 26
153 Catch a Thief
-
6c+ ** 13
154 Serious Monster Issues
-
7a+ 4
155 Thirty-nine Year War
-
6c 12
156 Fear No Evil 6b * 32
157 A Song for the Shadows
-
6b+ * 10
158 7/7
-
6c 4
159 Run for the Shadows
-
6c 3
160 Graffiti Rock
-
6c+ 1
Climb name Grade
161 Lure of Garrdevarre
-
6c+  
162 Passage to India 6a * 100
163 Mahatma Variant
-
E4 5c  
164 Save Me from This Rain!
-
6a 36
165 Ice Lake Night
-
6b+ * 31
166 Think outside of the Book
-
6c 21
167 The Carrick Roads
-
6a * 55
168 Bye Big Benn
-
E2 5b  
169 Big Girl's Blouse
-
6b+ * 22
170 Tea at the Ritz 6b+ 17
171 Blob Factor
-
E2 5c 1
172 Gonzo Reunited
-
E1 5b 3
173 Comedown Country
-
E3 6a  
  Quarry 2
175 Mosquitoes and Ticks
-
VS 4c 10
176 Curse of the French Biscuits
-
E1 5a 2
177 Lovely Bones
-
HVS 4c 2
178 Queen of Disco
-
E2 5c * 5
179 Child's Crown
-
VS 4c 4
180 Precious Little
-
E3 5c * 4
181 A Tick in the Scrotum is Worth Two in the Bush
-
HVS 5a 1
182 TickJob
-
HVS 4c 1
183 Boxing with Shadows
-
E2 6b 1
184 Croix de Guerre
-
E1 5b 1
185 Joie du Maquis
-
E5 6a  
186 Cotoneaster Holiday
-
E3 5b  
187 Fir Tree Grooves
-
S 4a  
188 Pottering
-
E1 5c 1
189 The Delightful Stain
-
E2 5b 1
190 A Good Day to Die
-
E3 5b  
191 Collywobbles
-
E3 6a  
192 Ripped Off
-
E3 6a *  
193 Swiss Steel
-
7a  
194 A Piece of the Sky
-
E4 5c  
195 Blood Sweat and Smears
-
E2 6a  
196 Spinning Wheel
-
E3 5b  
197 Hi-De-Ho
-
HVS 4c 1
198 Go Down Gamblin'
-
E4 6a 1
199 God Particle
-
E3 5c * 1
200 Poor Housekeeping
-
E3 5c 1
201 Schrödinger's Cat
-
E5 6b  
202 Paraphernalia E3 6a * 2
203 Club Chemistry
-
E5 6b  
204 Hangover
-
E2 5b 1
205 Now the Party's Over
-
E3 6a 1
206 Crashin' Out
-
E5 6a 1
207 Ceaselessly Stalking Crocker
-
E2 5c 2
208 The Dustbuster E2 5c 3
209 Hurricane Fly E3 5b 4
210 Are You Experienced?
-
E5 6a 3
211 Evil Edna E4 5c ** 17
212 Kapiche
-
E5 6a 4
213 Secret Art
-
E5 6a 5
214 Caroline Watches the Fun
-
E2 5c 19
215 Pump Factory
-
E5 6a  
216 Flying the B-52 6c 2
217 The Illusion of Complicity 7c+ ** 5
218 More Thrust Scotty!
-
E1 5c 12
219 Aye Captain!
-
E2 6a 1
  Quarry 1
221 How to Butcher a Wood Pigeon HS 3c 3
222 Flatliner
-
E4 6a  
223 Set Your Controls
-
E1 5b ** 10
224 Ides of March
-
E5 6b * 1
225 Ayes to the Right
-
E5 6a  
226 Domitian
-
E1 5b * 4
227 The Fathomless Aurora
-
E2 5b  
228 Black Sheep
-
7b+ 2
229 Black Sheet E5 6c *  
230 Brubeck Fingers
-
7c  
231 Hit in Five Time
-
7b  
232 Crumble HS 4b * 26
233 Crumble Integrale
-
HVS 5a * 11
234 Explosion Groove
-
HS 4a  
235 Exploration Groove Direct
-
E1 5b  
236 Crying Beasts
-
VS 4a  
237 West Side Story
-
S 4a  
238 En animato
-
6c  
239 Un poco mosso
-
6a 2

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