UKC

Climbs 149
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 28m a.s.l
Faces NE

Red with Rage (7b) on the Sea Wall at Oxwich © Mark Glaister

Approach notes

For The Red wall (sea wall near the landslide), easiest access is along the beach, but this is often slippery when wet. For the secret Oxwich follow the costal path past the church, up the steps, along the flat path for around 1km then drop down another set of steps which comes down to overlook the quarry. Along the side of the quarry there is a wooden fence hiding the edge. To get down to the quarry, at the left hand side of the fence there is a steep path down. Alternatively you can walk around to the end of the path which comes out on the beach (at low tide) and you can cut back up though the trees to the crag.

Access Advice

There has been a major rockfall at this location (Dec 21st) and climbers are asked to avoid this venue until CCW have managed to make a full assement of the rockface. There are no access difficulties provided climbers do not exit the cliff tops, avoid excessive vegetation damage and do not encourage the general public into the quarry area. BMC are working with CCW on a local proposal to clean-up this crag - watch this space.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

South Wales Sport Climbs

South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Gower Rock (2012)
Gower & South-East Wales (2004)
Bouldering topo is almost done then we can put all of these blocs in order. Its very confusing at moment even if you know the spot
simon rawlinson - 08/Apr/14
Hey guys visiting in a couple of week, any chance of any topos? Cheers.
sideshow84 - 08/Apr/14
Any topo's for the bouldering knocking about? Thanks
lewisgadd - 02/Nov/13
Yes, go for it. Its open now - I wouldn't want to be moderator anymore given the crags overall instability! Cheers
goi.ashmore - 20/Jun/13
We are developing the boulders and there will be a topo soon. Can anyone with a problem f.a please upload soon so there is no confusion with f.a. Will be an amazing venue. Also goi if you don't mind can I have moderator as will help. Cheers
fyfee8a - 22/Mar/13
I tried to find this location, but failed, I was wondering if someone could update the "Access notes"?
hi2uppl - 05/Jun/11
I have finished adding all missing climbs at Secret Oxwich, here is a list, in order of the climbs. LEFT TO RIGHT Load Of bullocks Underneath The Larches Life's Too Short (listed as un-named[No4]) Snatched From The Cradle Cradle Snatcher Baby Boing Boing Laughing Boy Baby Bouncer Teenage Kicks Me Inheritance Ox-Over Moon (listed as Un-named [No 10]) Dynamo Kiev Grated Expectations Anonymous Flare Toxicology Hubble Rubble Soil And Shovel Anoek Clear Missile Dirt Box Cradle Of Dirt Filthy Snatch Cauldron Of Satyr Devil's Brew Hope this is helpful. Probably would be of use to have this crag seperate from the rest of the Oxwich climbs.
Craig Seaman - 17/Apr/11
Also, a lot of the climbs in this area are in the wrong order.
Craig Seaman - 16/Apr/11
The "new Oxwich" or "secret Oxwich" part of the crag is well out of date on here, A lot has been rebolted (April 2011) will try and update as well as possible.
Craig Seaman - 16/Apr/11
Following the pre-Xmas landslide, it looks like the routes from (and including) Red Leicester to Sweet September are now gone.
nikgoile - 28/Dec/09
There has been a recent massive landslide here which has obliterated quite a few routes. Will post another comment when I've worked out what is gone.
nikgoile - 22/Dec/09
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  In the Woods
2 Mortuary Crack
-
D 2
3 Captain Stabbing Visits Uranus
-
HVS 4c 1
4 Hide The Sausage
-
E1 5b 1
5 South West Corner
-
HS 2
6 Load of Bullocks 6a+ 3
7 Underneath The Larches 6b+ 3
8 Cradle Snatcher 6a * 28
9 Baby Going Boing Boing 6b+ * 1
10 Laughing Boy 7b+ *  
11 Baby Bouncer 6c+ *  
12 Teenage Kicks 6c+ * 1
13 My Inheritance 6b * 4
14 Ox-Over Moon 6a+ * 13
15 Dynamo Kiev 7b+ * 1
16 Grated Expectations 7a *  
17 Anonymous Flare 6c * 1
18 Suppose I Try 6a * 16
19 Anal Gesia 6b * 7
20 Nice Groove 6a+ * 10
21 Toxicology 6c+  
22 Hubble, Rubble 6b * 1
23 Soil and Shuvel 6a+ * 8
24 Anoek Clear Missile 6b * 5
25 Dirt Box 6b+ * 5
26 Filthy Snatch 6b * 6
27 Cauldron Of Satyr 6b * 2
28 Devil's Brew 6a+ 5
29 Snatched From The Cradle 6b * 11
30 The Last Arete (easy start)
-
6a+ 3
31 The Last Arete 6c 1
32 Open Verdict 6b 2
33 Swift Justice HVS 5b 2
34 Before The Beak 7a+ * 2
35 Jury's Out 7a * 2
36 Teasing The Zits 6c 1
37 Pip Squeak 6b 2
38 Treading The Grapes 6b 2
39 Squeezing The Pips VS 4c 1
40 Stoned Dates 6c+ * 2
41 Figura 7b  
42 Picking Berries 7a 2
43 No Resin, Why? E2 5b 2
44 The Oxwich Bobby 7a 2
45 The Oxwich Blobby 7b+ 1
46 Resin Hate E2 5b 2
47 Resination 7a 1
48 Say Cheese Please 7a+ * 1
49 Plum Duff 7b * 3
50 Tump Jumper 7a * 4
51 Blight In August E3 5c 2
52 Red October 7a 4
53 Sniff That 6c 4
54 Sika This 7a 3
Climb name Grade
  Collapsed Cliff
56 Red Leicester 6a 3
57 Root Grabbing E4 5b  
58 For Sportsmen Of The Epoxy Clips 6c+ *** 8
59 Whey It Up 7c 1
60 Sweet September 7a * 2
61 Epoxy Clips Now 7a 1
62 Big Cheese 7a ** 3
63 Extra Ordinary Little Cough/Nike E1 5a * 3
64 Ambrosia Mountain 7b+ 1
65 The Route Of All Evil 8b+ *  
66 Sansarete 8a *  
67 Inferno 8a+ *  
  Sea Wall, AKA Red Wall
69 Little Cracker HVS 5a 2
70 Beyond All Resin 6c * 12
71 Resin D'Etre 7a+ ** 10
72 Two Of A Perfect Pair 7b+ 2
73 Red River Rock 7b ** 18
74 The Milkier Way 7c * 1
75 Mars Attacks 7a+ ** 4
76 Red With Rage 7b *** 28
77 Red Letter Day 7b+ ** 7
78 Written In Red 7b ** 4
79 Red Snapper 7b+ * 1
80 Starkly Nameless 7c+ **  
81 Bitchin 7c *** 21
82 The Morgue The Merrier 7b+ ** 5
83 Missin' The Drink 7b 1
84 Kissin' the Pink 6c *** 114
85 Pissin' the Sink 7b * 3
86 Foamin' at the Gusset 7a+ 4
87 Inspector Glueseau 7a * 24
88 Glue Year 7a ** 14
89 Settin' Stone 7b * 1
90 Steel Yourself 6b * 40
91 Steel Yourself Direct 6c+ 4
92 Far South West Corner
-
VD 1
93 Groovy Chick 6a+ * 1
94 Cradle Of Dirt HVS 5a *  
  Oxwich Point
96 Milkin' the Link 6b * 14
  bouldering
98 Terry's Chocolate Testpiece * f7A+ ** 3
99 Gupta's Arete * f7B ** 3
100 Brown Trousers * f6C+ *** 1
101 Melting Point * f6B+ ** 1
  The Great Escape bloc
103 The Great Escape f7B *** 13
104 Immersion f7C *** 9
105 Immersion Extension f7C+ *** 4
106 Round The World f7C ** 5
107 Death By Chocolate * f7C *** 2
108 Razor Clam Royale * f7C *** 2
109 Lighter Than Air * f7A+ *** 1
Climb name Grade
110 Short Arse * f7B+ ** 1
111 Half Arsed * V9 ** 1
  Lost Bouys bloc
113 Lost Buoys f6C+ *** 14
114 Message In A Bottle f7B+ *** 2
115 Spike f6C+ ** 8
116 Goonies Parade Rh f5+ * 3
117 Goonies Parade f6C+ ** 3
118 Goonies Parade Direct f6B * 3
119 Off The Block f6A+ * 1
120 Project Purity f6C+ *** 3
121 Wigout Wall f6A+ * 2
122 Big Trouble Arete VB ** 3
123 Dayman * f6B ** 1
124 Nightman * f6C+ ** 1
  The Box bloc
126 The Box V5 * 1
127 The slip arete V2 * 3
128 Real swell f7A+ ** 1
129 Swell arĂȘte f6B ** 3
130 Jack in a box V0 1
  Hurt Locker Bloc
132 Bomb Squad f6A * 5
133 Hurt Locker f6B+ 8
134 Tour of Duty f6C+ * 5
135 Snow Leopard f7A+ ** 7
136 The Grasshopper f7A * 3
137 Sausage Groove f5 ** 3
138 Worse things happen at sea! f5+ * 1
139 Leeky Sausage f7A ** 8
140 The Crafty Sausage f6C * 3
141 Slap Stick f6B+ * 2
  Full Moon ledge
143 Total eclipse f6B 5
144 Coup De Tat f6C+ 3
145 Half Moon f6C ** 10
146 Full Moon f7B+ ** 5
  High Wall Bloc
148 High Wall f6C ** 5
149 The Guppa King f6B+ 4
  The Corridor
151 Crystal f4+ *** 3
152 Crystal Traverse f6C ** 4
153 Bridge The Gap f7B ** 1
154 Mind The Gap f7C+ ** 2
  The Grand Swan Bloc
156 Black Swan f6B ** 3
  Awaiting moderation
158 Life's too short 6c * 1
159 Unnamed (Sportsclimbs Route Number 4) 5a  
160 Un-named 6a+ 1
161 Fyfes Arete f6C * 1
162 Dusty dirt box f6C+ 1
  Routes Added from Rockfax Book
164 Mabinogion * f8B ** 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers simon rawlinson and Mark Glaister - Assistant Editor