Climbs 150
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 58m a.s.l
Faces S

Dave Henderson on first ascent of 'Ossuary' E7 6c © Finn Clipson

Crag features

High-quality (but polished!) compact limestone with many fine routes, well-protected; up to 130ft single- and multi-pitch routes. Standard sandbags ... errr I mean intriguing technical delights include Sarcophagus (VS 4b) and Oesophagus (E1 5a), the latter a strenuous and technical jamming crack, the former a multidimensional chimney with significant speleological interest. Quality routes for all grades.

Approach notes

Take the S exit towards Chudleigh off the A38, follow the signs back to Chudleigh for about 600m (passing Rock House Garden Centre on the right - DO NOT PARK HERE) to a right turn at the police station into Rock Lane. Limited parking where the road widens by the entrance to Palace Quarry (please to not block the road, or park in the quarry entrance). Please note that the North Face is owned by The Rock Centre who have put in lower off for all the routes on the Eastern face - for North Face routes please call at the house to get permission to climb and park as above, not at the house. There are some routes in the quarry, but this is privately owned and access is not usually granted!

Take the footpath from a wrought-iron gate, follow a wall that follows the hillside. Where the path splits take the upper track, to a narrow neck of land. On your right is the begining of the North face. Follow a track that leads to the left, and with some scrambling you will arrive at Eeny, Meeny, Miney and Mo, further scrambling down right leads to the south face proper.

Commercial and educational groups wishing to climb on the South Face should contact Alexander Clifford for permission prior to using the site:

Alexander Clifford
Ugbrooke Park
Chudleigh
South Devon
TQ13 OAD

Tel: 01626 852179

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Chudleigh has a strange proliferation of pegs and in-situ threads that are right next to bomber wires. I ain sayin all the fixed stuff is right next to bomber wires, but that which is - any reason it shouldn't come out?
Andy Moles - 05/Apr/15
Bees nest seen at the top of Barn Owl Crack yesterday (6th March), instead of following route line I just went to the right finishing up at probably the same grade.
Matt Smith - 07/Mar/15
Does anybody know if there is any seepage at the moment?
tomwheeler - 03/Dec/13
Combined Ops and Machete wall are no longer soft E2's since both have lost pegs. Co-Ops is strenuous and fiddly to protect the moves into the white groove. Machete has only one Cassin Ring Peg at the crux and these have been known to fail. It is vital to back this peg up with small wires before running it out to the next resting hold.
Kafoozalem - 23/Oct/13
Took the secateurs up Central Pillar today and left it in a much more enjoyable state. If more people yanked the ivy off, bashed the stinging nettles down and trimmed the brambles Chudleigh would be almost perfect :-)
Kafoozalem - 10/Aug/13
Probably the most polished crag i have ever been to!
Dean177 - 07/Apr/13
Didn't see any bees up Barn Owl Crack yesterday. Did see a rather vicious looking hornet at the bottom of salome though!
Richard Morgan - 23/Jun/09
Often considered as polished and rubbish, chudleigh is a lot better than you would be lead to believe. Major scope for great days out - beautiful valley location with great views and easily accessible by Bus (25mins) from Exeter. "The Spider" (E1 5b) is spectacular!
SCGale - 18/Jun/09
There are still bees towards the top of Barn Owl Crack (11/05/2009)
tom169 - 14/May/09
Hello folks - a reminder to follow the guidebook info for access. The Rock Centre has nothing to do with the south face of Chudleigh Rocks. It is owned and managed by the Clifford Estate and English Nature. Access is, as always, from Rock Road (park past the police station). Please do not lie to the staff in order to park at the Rock Centre and gain access! Legitimate North Face climbers are always welcome with permission, but parking off site still applies
ecowaller - 03/May/09
Beware bees nesting 3/4 way up Barn Owl Crack 4/5/08
Kafoozalem - 04/May/08
There is an up to date dowhloadable guide at http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/Chudleigh/index.shtml
Mark Kemball - 13/Feb/06
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Pixies Hole Area
2 Eeny D 155
3 Meeny D 154
4 Miney D 119
5 Mo D 140
6 Jim's Folly S 87
7 Chainsaw Massacre HVS 5b 39
8 One Foot in the Grave
-
HS 4a 79
9 Albatross
-
E1 5b 1
10 A Farewell to Arms E3 6a ** 10
11 Big Bird
-
E5 6b ** 12
12 Seventh Seal
-
E5 6b *  
13 Chudleigh Overhang HVS 5a * 168
14 Phoenix on Fire E4 6b 1
15 Dripdry Indirect E4 6a * 2
16 Dripdry E4 6b ** 22
17 Dream On Direct E5 6b * 2
  GAGOOL BUTTRESS
19 Logic
-
E1 5b ** 145
20 Gagool E1 5b ** 188
21 Gagool Direct E3 5c * 30
22 Gagool Direct Direct E4 6a ** 6
23 Sly Boots McCall E4 6b ** 15
24 Combined Ops E2 5b *** 255
  Combat Wall
26 Fluffy Handcuffs E3 5c * 5
27 Combined Combat E2 5b ** 14
28 Combat E3 5c *** 81
29 Tendonitis E4 6a 24
30 Obstreperous E6 6c 4
31 Oesophagus E1 5b *** 271
32 Before the storm E3 5c 27
33 Sarcophagus VS 4b *** 497
34 Sarcophagus (variation) VS 4a 13
35 Concerto
-
E3 5c * 14
36 Ossuary E7 6c * 3
37 Tossuary E8 7a * 1
38 Into The Groove
-
E7 6c 3
39 White Edge E1 5b 20
40 White Edge - Concerto
-
E3 5c ** 18
41 Army Dreamers E2 5c 9
  GREEN MANTLE AREA
43 Green Mantle D ** 319
44 Green Mantle Variation 1a
-
HS 4b 34
45 Space Invader VS 4c * 1
46 Tar Baby
-
S 4a 464
47 Brer Fox S 4a 107
48 Brer Rabbit HS 4a 121
  SPACE BUTTRESS
50 Red Dwarf E2 5c 7
51 Starman E1 5b 5
52 Saturn Five E2 5b * 187
53 Major Tom E3 6a ** 53
54 Squirrel
-
HS 4a 76
55 Ground Control E1 5c * 10
56 Devils Elbow VS 4c 8
57 Space Odyssey E3 5c 3
  SALOME AREA
59 White Rasta E2 6a 4
60 Schweinhund E4 6c *  
61 Pigs Might Fly E3 5c ** 3
62 Christmas Corner VS 4b 47
63 Biko E2 5c 10
64 Salome S 4a * 568
65 Seventh Veil VS 4c 217
66 Seventh Veil Direct E2 5a/b * 139
67 Pigs on the Wing E2 5b 9
68 Flinger's Sleight Return E3 6a 7
69 Hot Ice E4 6a * 78
70 Kush E5 6b/c * 3
  COW CAVE AREA
72 Bang VS 6
73 Monty Python's Flying Circus VS 3
74 TNT VS 5a 153
75 Crimp me a Pasty E1 5c * 10
76 Guy Fawkes Crack VS 4c * 114
77 Smoke Gets In Your Eyes E3 6a * 33
78 Smokey Joe E3 6a * 17
79 Charlie Chaplin Walks On Air E3 6b 10
80 Loot HVS 5b ** 130
81 The Main Man
-
E4 6c **  
82 Thu'n'ell
-
E3 6a 2
83 Twang E1 5b ** 243
84 Highly Strung E4 6b 6
85 Reek HS 4b * 463
86 Spearhead
-
HS 4b 82
87 Leek
-
HS 4b 141
88 Barn Owl Crack HVD ** 524
89 Barn Owl Variant VS 4b 55
90 Ashtree Buttress VD * 109
91 The Slot HVS 5a ** 96
92 Panga E3 6a * 19
93 Island Racer
-
E4 6b  
94 Napalm HVS 5a 7
95 South Face E4 6a * 6
96 ...king Hell
-
E4 6b  
  MACHETE WALL AREA
98 South Face/ Machete Wall/ Penny Lane Combo
-
E4 6a ** 7
99 Machete Wall E2 5c ** 242
100 Mortality Crisis E4 6a ** 70
101 Mortality Crisis Direct E5 6a *** 4
102 Penny Lane E3 6b * 32
103 Penny Lane Direct E5 6b/c ** 3
104 Inkerman Groove VS 4c *** 787
105 Inkerman Groove Direct
-
HVS 5a ** 122
106 Black Death E4 6a *** 82
107 Wall right of Jammy f5+ 2
108 White Life E5 6b *** 32
109 Musical Women No2
-
E5 6b **  
110 Wogs HVD *** 916
111 Sisyphus
-
VS 4b 25
112 Central Pillar HVS 5a 43
113 Tantalus E1 5b 22
114 Bat Country E3 5c * 4
  NEVER ON A SUNDAY AREA
116 Scar VS 4b * 197
117 Never On Sunday HS 4b ** 502
118 Never on Sunday Variation 2a
-
VS 4c 21
119 Never on Sunday Variation 2b
-
VS 5a 19
120 Leap Year Finish HVS 5a * 54
121 Stepping Out E3 5c * 7
  WESTERN TOWER
123 The Fly
-
HVS 5a ** 110
124 The Spy E3 5c ** 45
125 The Spider E1 5b *** 344
126 Great Western VS 5a *** 432
127 Arachnophobia E2 5b 5
128 Arachnophobia into The Web (Right Hand) E2 5c ** 2
129 The Web E4 6a 3
130 Espionage E4 6a 4
131 Pigs Ear
-
E4 6b  
132 The Red Baron E6 6b * 5
  STALACTITE WALL
134 Stalactite VS 4b 55
135 Stalactite Direct HVS 5a * 194
136 Aching Arms HVS 5a * 8
137 Grim Reaper E3 5c * 89
138 Harvestman E5 6a * 18
139 Whoremoans Erect E5 6a ** 6
140 Whoremoans E6 6b ** 8
141 Atropos E3 5b * 7
142 Orpheus
-
E6 6a 2
143 West End
-
HS 8
144 Stuff the E5s M 9
  Girdle Traverses/Bouldering
146 Rubble Trouble
-
VD 6
147 Eastern Girdle E1 5b 6
148 The Equation
-
E3 6a ** 4
149 South face Girdle E1 5b 6
150 Western Traverse f4+ ** 14
151 Arachnophobic f5 * 4
152 Gully Wall with Top Out (aka Saturn Five Direct Start) f6A *** 14
153 Gully Wall with Sloper top out f6A+ 3
154 Gully Wall Low Traverse f5 ** 4
155 Robbie's Route f6A+ * 3
156 Limbo Groove f6B+ * 3
157 Simon's Problem V9 ** 2
158 Simon's Problem Sit V10 ***  
159 Dream On to Chudleigh Overhang f6A 6
160 Big Bird Arete Start f5+ 4
161 Farewell to Big Bird f5 * 4
162 Jammy f4+ * 4

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Kafoozalem