UKC

Climbs 176
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 58m a.s.l
Faces S

Dave Henderson on first ascent of 'Ossuary' E7 6c © Finn Clipson

Crag features

High-quality (but polished!) compact limestone with many fine routes, well-protected; up to 130ft single- and multi-pitch routes. Standard sandbags ... errr I mean intriguing technical delights include Sarcophagus (VS 4b) and Oesophagus (E1 5a), the latter a strenuous and technical jamming crack, the former a multidimensional chimney with significant speleological interest. Quality routes for all grades.

Approach notes

Take the S exit towards Chudleigh off the A38, follow the signs back to Chudleigh for about 600m (passing Rock House Garden Centre on the right - DO NOT PARK HERE) to a right turn at the police station into Rock Lane. Limited parking where the road widens by the entrance to Palace Quarry (please to not block the road, or park in the quarry entrance). Please note that the North Face is owned by The Rock Centre who have put in lower off for all the routes on the Eastern face - for North Face routes please call at the house to get permission to climb and park as above, not at the house. There are some routes in the quarry, but this is privately owned and access is not usually granted!

Take the footpath from a wrought-iron gate, follow a wall that follows the hillside. Where the path splits take the upper track, to a narrow neck of land. On your right is the begining of the North face. Follow a track that leads to the left, and with some scrambling you will arrive at Eeny, Meeny, Miney and Mo, further scrambling down right leads to the south face proper.

Commercial and educational groups wishing to climb on the South Face should contact Alexander Clifford for permission prior to using the site:

Alexander Clifford
Ugbrooke Park
Chudleigh
South Devon
TQ13 OAD

Tel: 01626 852179

Access Advice

Climbing at Chudleigh Rock is an inherently dangerous activity and climbers should be aware of the risk of personal injury and death. The landowner (The Clifford Estate), is very supportive of climbing at the crag, but requires that all climbers using the crag have 3rd party liability insurance cover up to £10 million. This is an integral part of BMC or MCofS membership or can be obtained elsewhere providing it gives the same level of cover.

Fixed equipment on the crag has not been installed by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and is not the responsibility of The Clifford Estate Company Ltd. Please be aware that the fixed equipment is not checked or maintained by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and the Clifford Estate Company Ltd accepts no liability for the death or injury of any person involved in climbing arising from fixed equipment failure.

Do not light fires - in the past this has caused damage to plants and the local bat colony, and could gain climbers a poor reputation if it happens in future.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Updated the Chudleigh section to be in line with the new definitive South Devon guidebook (2018).
Kafoozalem - 31/Oct/18
Chudleigh has a strange proliferation of pegs and in-situ threads that are right next to bomber wires. I ain sayin all the fixed stuff is right next to bomber wires, but that which is - any reason it shouldn't come out?
Andy Moles - 05/Apr/15
Bees nest seen at the top of Barn Owl Crack yesterday (6th March), instead of following route line I just went to the right finishing up at probably the same grade.
Matt Smith - 07/Mar/15
Does anybody know if there is any seepage at the moment?
tomwheeler - 03/Dec/13
Combined Ops and Machete wall are no longer soft E2's since both have lost pegs. Co-Ops is strenuous and fiddly to protect the moves into the white groove. Machete has only one Cassin Ring Peg at the crux and these have been known to fail. It is vital to back this peg up with small wires before running it out to the next resting hold.
Kafoozalem - 23/Oct/13
Took the secateurs up Central Pillar today and left it in a much more enjoyable state. If more people yanked the ivy off, bashed the stinging nettles down and trimmed the brambles Chudleigh would be almost perfect :-)
Kafoozalem - 10/Aug/13
Probably the most polished crag i have ever been to!
Dean177 - 07/Apr/13
Didn't see any bees up Barn Owl Crack yesterday. Did see a rather vicious looking hornet at the bottom of salome though!
Richard Morgan - 23/Jun/09
Often considered as polished and rubbish, chudleigh is a lot better than you would be lead to believe. Major scope for great days out - beautiful valley location with great views and easily accessible by Bus (25mins) from Exeter. "The Spider" (E1 5b) is spectacular!
SCGale - 18/Jun/09
There are still bees towards the top of Barn Owl Crack (11/05/2009)
twm - 14/May/09
Hello folks - a reminder to follow the guidebook info for access. The Rock Centre has nothing to do with the south face of Chudleigh Rocks. It is owned and managed by the Clifford Estate and English Nature. Access is, as always, from Rock Road (park past the police station). Please do not lie to the staff in order to park at the Rock Centre and gain access! Legitimate North Face climbers are always welcome with permission, but parking off site still applies
ecowaller - 03/May/09
Beware bees nesting 3/4 way up Barn Owl Crack 4/5/08
Kafoozalem - 04/May/08
There is an up to date dowhloadable guide at http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/Chudleigh/index.shtml
Mark Kemball - 13/Feb/06
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Pixies Hole Area
2 Eeny D 162
3 Meeny VD 162
4 Miney VD 124
5 Mo D 145
6 One Foot in the Grave
-
HS 4a 83
7 Chainsaw Massacre HVS 5a 41
8 Jim's Folly S 93
9 Wamp VS 4b 2
10 Utterly Sputterly HS 4b 3
11 Albatross
-
E1 5b 1
12 A Farewell to Arms E3 6a ** 12
13 Big Bird
-
E5 6b * 12
14 Big Bird Direct
-
E4 6a *  
15 Seventh Seal
-
E5 6b *  
16 Chudleigh Overhang HVS 5a * 176
17 Phoenix on Fire E4 6b 1
18 Dripdry Indirect E4 6a * 2
19 Dripdry E4 6b ** 23
20 Dream on E1 5c/6a 1
21 Dream On Direct E5 6b * 2
  GAGOOL BUTTRESS
23 Logic
-
E1 5b * 157
24 Gagool E1 5b ** 185
25 Gagool Direct E3 6a * 30
26 Gagool Direct Direct E4 6a ** 6
27 Sly Boots McCall E4 6b * 15
28 Combined Ops E2 5b *** 255
  Combat Wall
30 Fluffy Handcuffs E3 5c 5
31 Combined Combat E2 5b ** 16
32 Combat E3 5c *** 87
33 Tendonitis E5 6a * 24
34 Obstreperous E6 6c 4
35 Oesophagus E1 5b *** 278
36 Before the storm E4 5c 27
37 Sarcophagus VS 4b *** 510
38 Sarcophagus (variation) VS 4a 14
39 Concerto
-
E3 5c * 14
40 Ossuary E7 6c * 3
41 Tossuary E8 7a * 1
42 Into The Groove
-
E7 6c 3
43 White Edge E1 5b * 22
44 White Edge - Concerto
-
E2 5c ** 20
45 Army Dreamers E2 5c * 10
  GREEN MANTLE AREA
47 Green Mantle D ** 340
48 Green Mantle Variation 1a
-
HS 4b 40
49 Space Invader VS 4c * 1
50 Tar Baby
-
S 4a 493
51 Brer Fox S 4a 108
52 Brer Rabbit HS 4a 132
  SPACE BUTTRESS
54 Red Dwarf E2 5c 7
55 Starman E1 5b 5
56 Saturn Jive E1 5b  
57 Saturn Five E2 5b * 179
58 Major Tom E3 6a ** 57
59 Squirrel
-
HS 4a 78
60 Ground Control E1 5c * 10
61 Devils Elbow VS 4c 8
62 Space Odyssey E3 5c 3
Climb name Grade
  SALOME AREA
64 White Rasta E3 5c 4
65 Schweinhund E5 6c *  
66 Pigs Might Fly E3 6a ** 3
67 Christmas Corner VS 4b 47
68 Biko E2 5c 10
69 Salome S 4a * 614
70 Seventh Veil VS 4c 228
71 Seventh Veil Direct E2 5a/b * 147
72 Pigs on the Wing E2 5b 10
73 Flinger's Sleight Return E3 6a 8
74 Hot Ice E4 6a * 80
75 Kush E5 6b * 3
  COW CAVE AREA
77 Bang VS 7
78 Monty Python's Flying Circus VS 3
79 TNT VS 5a 159
80 Crimp me a Pasty E1 5c * 10
81 Guy Fawkes Crack VS 4c * 116
82 Smoke Gets In Your Eyes E3 6a * 33
83 Smokey Joe E3 6a * 17
84 Charlie Chaplin Walks On Air E4 6b 10
85 The Great Dictator E5 6b  
86 Loot HVS 5b ** 123
87 The Main Man
-
E4 6c **  
88 Thu'n'ell
-
E3 6a 2
89 Twang E1 5b ** 244
90 Highly Strung E5 6b 6
91 Reek HS 4b * 494
92 Spearhead
-
HS 4b 86
93 Leek
-
HS 4b 160
94 Barn Owl Crack HVD ** 563
95 Barn Owl Variant VS 4b 62
96 Ashtree Buttress VD * 117
97 The Family Sandwich
-
E5 6a  
98 The Slot HVS 5a ** 98
99 Panga E3 6a * 21
100 Island Racer
-
E4 6b  
  MACHETE WALL AREA
102 Napalm HVS 5a 8
103 South Face E4 6a * 6
104 South Face/ Machete Wall/ Penny Lane Combo
-
E4 6a ** 7
105 ...king Hell
-
E5 6b  
106 Machete Wall E2 5c ** 254
107 Mortality Crisis E4 6a ** 79
108 Mortality Crisis Direct E5 6a *** 4
109 Penny Lane E3 6b ** 33
110 Penny Lane Direct E5 6b/c ** 3
111 Inkerman Groove VS 4c *** 822
112 Inkerman Groove Direct
-
HVS 5a ** 132
113 Black Death E4 6a *** 83
114 White Life E5 6b *** 26
115 Musical Women No2
-
E5 6b **  
116 Wogs HVD *** 981
117 Sisyphus
-
HS 4b 26
118 Central Pillar HVS 5a 52
119 Tantalus E1 5b 25
120 Bat Country E3 5c * 4
  NEVER ON A SUNDAY AREA
122 Scar VS 4b * 219
123 Never On Sunday HS 4b ** 543
124 Never on Sunday Variation 2a
-
VS 4c 23
125 Never on Sunday Variation 2b
-
VS 5a 20
Climb name Grade
126 Leap Year Finish HVS 5a * 62
127 Stepping Out E4 6a * 7
  WESTERN TOWER
129 The Fly
-
HVS 5a ** 113
130 The Spy E3 5c ** 46
131 The Spider E1 5b *** 342
132 Great Western VS 5a *** 447
133 Arachnophobia E2 5b 5
134 Arachno-Web E2 5c ** 2
135 The Web E4 6a 3
136 The Web Right-Hand E2 5c 1
137 Espionage E4 6a 4
138 Pigs Ear
-
E4 6b  
139 The Red Baron E6 6b * 5
  STALACTITE WALL
141 Stalactite VS 4b 64
142 Stalactite Direct HVS 5a * 225
143 Aching Arms HVS 5a * 13
144 Grim Reaper E3 5c * 104
145 Harvestman E5 6a * 20
146 Whoremoans Erect E5 6a ** 6
147 Whoremoans E6 6b ** 7
148 Atropos E2 5b * 7
149 Orpheus
-
E6 6a 2
150 West End
-
HS 8
151 Stuff the E5s M 10
  Girdle Traverses/Bouldering
153 Rubble Trouble
-
VD 6
154 Eastern Girdle E1 5b 6
155 The Equation
-
E3 6a ** 4
156 South face Girdle E1 5b 7
157 Western Traverse f4+ ** 20
158 Arachnophobic f5 * 4
159 Kin f5+ 1
160 Cow Cave traverse f5+ 2
161 Cow Cave Traverse Low f5+ 2
162 Cow Cave Roof Problem
-
f6B  
163 Gully Wall with Top Out (aka Saturn Five Direct Start) f6A *** 15
164 Gully Wall with Sloper top out f6A+ 3
165 Gully Wall Low Traverse f5 ** 4
166 Robbie's Route f6A+ * 3
167 Limbo Groove f6B+ * 4
168 Simon's Problem V9 ** 2
169 Simon's Problem Sit V10 ***  
170 Dream On to Chudleigh Overhang f6A 11
171 Big Bird Arete Start f5+ 5
172 Pixie's Wall Direct
-
f7A+  
173 Pixie's Traverse
-
f6C 1
174 Pixie's Low Traverse
-
f7A  
175 Pixie's Loop
-
f7A+  
176 Pixie's Figure of Eight Circuit
-
f7A+  
177 Pixie's Cave Wall Campus
-
f7A  
178 Pixies Cave Wall f6B * 2
179 Old School
-
f6A  
180 Farewell to Big Bird f5 * 5
181 Jammy f4+ * 4
182 Wally f5+ 3
183 Dreamboat f6A ** 1
184 Wall
-
f6A+  
185 Parker
-
f6B+ *  
186 Rib
-
f6A  
187 Groove
-
f5+ *  
188 Nosey
-
f6B *  

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Kafoozalem