UKC

Climbs 156
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 58m a.s.l
Faces S

Dave Henderson on first ascent of 'Ossuary' E7 6c © Finn Clipson

Crag features

High-quality (but polished!) compact limestone with many fine routes, well-protected; up to 130ft single- and multi-pitch routes. Standard sandbags ... errr I mean intriguing technical delights include Sarcophagus (VS 4b) and Oesophagus (E1 5a), the latter a strenuous and technical jamming crack, the former a multidimensional chimney with significant speleological interest. Quality routes for all grades.

Approach notes

Take the S exit towards Chudleigh off the A38, follow the signs back to Chudleigh for about 600m (passing Rock House Garden Centre on the right - DO NOT PARK HERE) to a right turn at the police station into Rock Lane. Limited parking where the road widens by the entrance to Palace Quarry (please to not block the road, or park in the quarry entrance). Please note that the North Face is owned by The Rock Centre who have put in lower off for all the routes on the Eastern face - for North Face routes please call at the house to get permission to climb and park as above, not at the house. There are some routes in the quarry, but this is privately owned and access is not usually granted!

Take the footpath from a wrought-iron gate, follow a wall that follows the hillside. Where the path splits take the upper track, to a narrow neck of land. On your right is the begining of the North face. Follow a track that leads to the left, and with some scrambling you will arrive at Eeny, Meeny, Miney and Mo, further scrambling down right leads to the south face proper.

Commercial and educational groups wishing to climb on the South Face should contact Alexander Clifford for permission prior to using the site:

Alexander Clifford
Ugbrooke Park
Chudleigh
South Devon
TQ13 OAD

Tel: 01626 852179

Access Advice

Climbing at Chudleigh Rock is an inherently dangerous activity and climbers should be aware of the risk of personal injury and death. The landowner (The Clifford Estate), is very supportive of climbing at the crag, but requires that all climbers using the crag have 3rd party liability insurance cover up to £10 million. This is an integral part of BMC or MCofS membership or can be obtained elsewhere providing it gives the same level of cover.

Fixed equipment on the crag has not been installed by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and is not the responsibility of The Clifford Estate Company Ltd. Please be aware that the fixed equipment is not checked or maintained by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and the Clifford Estate Company Ltd accepts no liability for the death or injury of any person involved in climbing arising from fixed equipment failure.

Do not light fires - in the past this has caused damage to plants and the local bat colony, and could gain climbers a poor reputation if it happens in future.

Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Chudleigh has a strange proliferation of pegs and in-situ threads that are right next to bomber wires. I ain sayin all the fixed stuff is right next to bomber wires, but that which is - any reason it shouldn't come out?
Andy Moles - 05/Apr/15
Bees nest seen at the top of Barn Owl Crack yesterday (6th March), instead of following route line I just went to the right finishing up at probably the same grade.
Matt Smith - 07/Mar/15
Does anybody know if there is any seepage at the moment?
tomwheeler - 03/Dec/13
Combined Ops and Machete wall are no longer soft E2's since both have lost pegs. Co-Ops is strenuous and fiddly to protect the moves into the white groove. Machete has only one Cassin Ring Peg at the crux and these have been known to fail. It is vital to back this peg up with small wires before running it out to the next resting hold.
Kafoozalem - 23/Oct/13
Took the secateurs up Central Pillar today and left it in a much more enjoyable state. If more people yanked the ivy off, bashed the stinging nettles down and trimmed the brambles Chudleigh would be almost perfect :-)
Kafoozalem - 10/Aug/13
Probably the most polished crag i have ever been to!
Dean177 - 07/Apr/13
Didn't see any bees up Barn Owl Crack yesterday. Did see a rather vicious looking hornet at the bottom of salome though!
Richard Morgan - 23/Jun/09
Often considered as polished and rubbish, chudleigh is a lot better than you would be lead to believe. Major scope for great days out - beautiful valley location with great views and easily accessible by Bus (25mins) from Exeter. "The Spider" (E1 5b) is spectacular!
SCGale - 18/Jun/09
There are still bees towards the top of Barn Owl Crack (11/05/2009)
twm - 14/May/09
Hello folks - a reminder to follow the guidebook info for access. The Rock Centre has nothing to do with the south face of Chudleigh Rocks. It is owned and managed by the Clifford Estate and English Nature. Access is, as always, from Rock Road (park past the police station). Please do not lie to the staff in order to park at the Rock Centre and gain access! Legitimate North Face climbers are always welcome with permission, but parking off site still applies
ecowaller - 03/May/09
Beware bees nesting 3/4 way up Barn Owl Crack 4/5/08
Kafoozalem - 04/May/08
There is an up to date dowhloadable guide at http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/Chudleigh/index.shtml
Mark Kemball - 13/Feb/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Pixies Hole Area
2 Eeny D 162
3 Meeny D 160
4 Miney D 123
5 Mo D 145
6 One Foot in the Grave
-
HS 4a 83
7 Chainsaw Massacre HVS 5b 41
8 Jim's Folly S 93
9 Wamp VS 4b 2
10 Utterly Sputterly HS 4b 3
11 Albatross
-
E1 5b 1
12 A Farewell to Arms E3 6a ** 12
13 Big Bird
-
E5 6b ** 12
14 Seventh Seal
-
E5 6b *  
15 Chudleigh Overhang HVS 5a * 175
16 Phoenix on Fire E4 6b 1
17 Dripdry Indirect E4 6a * 2
18 Dripdry E4 6b ** 23
19 Dream On Direct E5 6b * 2
  GAGOOL BUTTRESS
21 Logic
-
E1 5b ** 155
22 Gagool E1 5b ** 185
23 Gagool Direct E3 5c * 30
24 Gagool Direct Direct E4 6a ** 6
25 Sly Boots McCall E4 6b ** 15
26 Combined Ops E2 5b *** 253
  Combat Wall
28 Fluffy Handcuffs E3 5c * 5
29 Combined Combat E2 5b ** 16
30 Combat E3 5c *** 86
31 Tendonitis E5 6a 24
32 Obstreperous E6 6c 4
33 Oesophagus E1 5b *** 274
34 Before the storm E3 5c 27
35 Sarcophagus VS 4b *** 505
36 Sarcophagus (variation) VS 4a 13
37 Concerto
-
E3 5c * 14
38 Ossuary E7 6c * 3
39 Tossuary E8 7a * 1
40 Into The Groove
-
E7 6c 3
41 White Edge E1 5b 21
42 White Edge - Concerto
-
E3 5c ** 20
43 Army Dreamers E2 5c 10
  GREEN MANTLE AREA
45 Green Mantle D ** 336
46 Green Mantle Variation 1a
-
HS 4b 40
47 Space Invader VS 4c * 1
48 Tar Baby
-
S 4a 492
49 Brer Fox S 4a 108
50 Brer Rabbit HS 4a 132
  SPACE BUTTRESS
52 Red Dwarf E2 5c 7
53 Starman E1 5b 5
54 Saturn Five E2 5b * 179
55 Major Tom E3 6a ** 57
56 Squirrel
-
HS 4a 78
Climb name Grade
57 Ground Control E1 5c * 10
58 Devils Elbow VS 4c 8
59 Space Odyssey E3 5c 3
  SALOME AREA
61 White Rasta E2 6a 4
62 Schweinhund E4 6c *  
63 Pigs Might Fly E3 5c ** 3
64 Christmas Corner VS 4b 47
65 Biko E2 5c 10
66 Salome S 4a * 613
67 Seventh Veil VS 4c 228
68 Seventh Veil Direct E2 5a/b * 147
69 Pigs on the Wing E2 5b 10
70 Flinger's Sleight Return E3 6a 8
71 Hot Ice E4 6a * 80
72 Kush E5 6b/c * 3
  COW CAVE AREA
74 Bang VS 7
75 Monty Python's Flying Circus VS 3
76 TNT VS 5a 159
77 Crimp me a Pasty E1 5c * 10
78 Guy Fawkes Crack VS 4c * 116
79 Smoke Gets In Your Eyes E3 6a * 33
80 Smokey Joe E3 6a * 17
81 Charlie Chaplin Walks On Air E3 6b 10
82 Loot HVS 5b ** 123
83 The Main Man
-
E4 6c **  
84 Thu'n'ell
-
E3 6a 2
85 Twang E1 5b ** 243
86 Highly Strung E4 6b 6
87 Reek HS 4b * 492
88 Spearhead
-
HS 4b 86
89 Leek
-
HS 4b 158
90 Barn Owl Crack HVD ** 562
91 Barn Owl Variant VS 4b 62
92 Ashtree Buttress VD * 117
93 The Slot HVS 5a ** 97
94 Panga E3 6a * 21
95 Island Racer
-
E4 6b  
96 Napalm HVS 5a 8
97 South Face E4 6a * 6
98 ...king Hell
-
E4 6b  
  MACHETE WALL AREA
100 South Face/ Machete Wall/ Penny Lane Combo
-
E4 6a ** 7
101 Machete Wall E2 5c ** 252
102 Mortality Crisis E4 6a ** 79
103 Mortality Crisis Direct E5 6a *** 4
104 Penny Lane E3 6b * 33
105 Penny Lane Direct E5 6b/c ** 3
106 Inkerman Groove VS 4c *** 816
107 Inkerman Groove Direct
-
HVS 5a ** 132
108 Black Death E4 6a *** 83
109 White Life E5 6b *** 26
110 Musical Women No2
-
E5 6b **  
111 Wogs HVD *** 975
112 Sisyphus
-
VS 4b 26
Climb name Grade
113 Central Pillar HVS 5a 52
114 Tantalus E1 5b 24
115 Bat Country E3 5c * 4
  NEVER ON A SUNDAY AREA
117 Scar VS 4b * 216
118 Never On Sunday HS 4b ** 542
119 Never on Sunday Variation 2a
-
VS 4c 23
120 Never on Sunday Variation 2b
-
VS 5a 20
121 Leap Year Finish HVS 5a * 60
122 Stepping Out E3 5c * 7
  WESTERN TOWER
124 The Fly
-
HVS 5a ** 112
125 The Spy E3 5c ** 46
126 The Spider E1 5b *** 340
127 Great Western VS 5a *** 444
128 Arachnophobia E2 5b 5
129 Arachnophobia into The Web (Right Hand) E2 5c ** 2
130 The Web E4 6a 3
131 Espionage E4 6a 4
132 Pigs Ear
-
E4 6b  
133 The Red Baron E6 6b * 5
  STALACTITE WALL
135 Stalactite VS 4b 62
136 Stalactite Direct HVS 5a * 225
137 Aching Arms HVS 5a * 12
138 Grim Reaper E3 5c * 101
139 Harvestman E5 6a * 20
140 Whoremoans Erect E5 6a ** 6
141 Whoremoans E6 6b ** 7
142 Atropos E3 5b * 7
143 Orpheus
-
E6 6a 2
144 West End
-
HS 8
145 Stuff the E5s M 10
  Girdle Traverses/Bouldering
147 Rubble Trouble
-
VD 6
148 Eastern Girdle E1 5b 6
149 The Equation
-
E3 6a ** 4
150 South face Girdle E1 5b 7
151 Western Traverse f4+ ** 19
152 Arachnophobic f5 * 4
153 Cow Cave traverse f5+ 2
154 Cow Cave Traverse Low f5+ 2
155 Gully Wall with Top Out (aka Saturn Five Direct Start) f6A *** 15
156 Gully Wall with Sloper top out f6A+ 3
157 Gully Wall Low Traverse f5 ** 4
158 Robbie's Route f6A+ * 3
159 Limbo Groove f6B+ * 4
160 Simon's Problem V9 ** 2
161 Simon's Problem Sit V10 ***  
162 Dream On to Chudleigh Overhang f6A 11
163 Big Bird Arete Start f5+ 5
164 Farewell to Big Bird f5 * 5
165 Jammy f4+ * 4
166 Wall right of Jammy f5+ 3
167 Dreamboat f6A ** 1
168 Pixies Cave Wall f6B * 2

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