Climbs 144
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)

The cliffs at Yesnaby, Orkney © chris_s

Crag features

The most developed area in Mainland Orkney. Mostly trad with a couple of sport climbs in a quarried area. Beautiful surroundings. Yesnaby castle, a popular seastack is located in this area.

Approach notes

Easy access. Car park at HY 221161. From there take coastal path south to the climbs.

Visited the quarry for the first time. Impressed with the quality of the routes and variety there. A good, friendly crag which should become quite popular
partz - 07/Sep/15
A fair few debateable grades here but very good anyway. The best rock is on Point Wall.
Ian Jones - 18/Aug/15
Note: Sport the routes have no lower-offs. Taking some trad gear to rig belays at the top will greatly increase your chances of retrieving your quick draws. :)
JLS - 23/Mar/15
Ace crag with all sectors having fine and aesthetic climbing, even the shorter Qui Ayre point is good. Be warned that almost all areas are properly tidal except Spectator's Geo, so some mixing and matching is useful. Also take heed that Bleed It Dry is closer to E4 and Thing Of Dreams really is as hard as it looks and a solid E4 6a. Most of the others seem fine and fair at the grade.
Fiend - 28/Aug/13
Fantastic intro to Orkadian climbing. Needs an update on the routes - lots in the guide not on the web e.g Skull Splitter.
philhilo - 08/May/11
I climbed this stack in 1981 while spending about a month up in Orkney. One of us swam and the others still got wet on a poorly rigged tyrolean !! Great fun, and seemed about HVS 5A following the route first done by Joe Brown as a warm up for the Hoy TV extravaganza.
Chris Rowlands - 19/Sep/07
very nice sandstone
brixton climber - 03/Aug/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Black Dyke
2 Damp Wa
-
E4 5c *  
  Car Park Area
4 Old Mans Folly
-
VS 4b 1
5 The Numbtease Dance
-
VD  
6 Racing The Waves
-
E1 5b **  
7 The Beat Goes On
-
HS 4a  
8 Sloppy Seconds none 5b  
  Black Slabs
10 The First of Many
-
S 4a *  
11 Uninvited Guest
-
VS 4c **  
12 Pull Direct
-
VS 4b *  
13 The Fall of the Clarkes
-
S 4b *  
14 Slippery When Wet
-
S 4a *  
15 The Long Wait
-
VS 4b 1
16 Keep on Puffin
-
VS 5a **  
17 The Puffin Factory
-
HVS 5b **  
18 The Leg Jammer
-
E1 5c  
19 Fortitude in Distress
-
HVS 5b *  
  Peedie Inlet
21 Easy Rider
-
D  
22 Walk Alone
-
HS *  
23 Stand Alone
-
S **  
24 Lonesome Pine
-
VD *  
25 Sink or Swim
-
E1 5c *  
  Point Wall
27 The Half Buoy S 4a * 3
28 Bullet E2 5c * 1
29 Route 91 HVS 5a 3
30 Quoybank Crack E1 5b *  
31 The Fantastic Mr Fox E3 6a *  
32 Up tae High Doh E1 5b **  
33 Peedie Breeks E4 6b *  
34 The Cog E2 5c *  
35 Deep Blue E3 5c ** 3
36 Billy Bean's Dream E3 5c ** 1
37 The Bends E2 5c *  
38 Blue Crush
-
E1 5b *** 9
39 Birdman E1 5b * 4
40 Tuttie's Wall E2 5b ** 5
41 Tutties Crack E2 5b ** 6
42 Tuttie's Neuk HVS 5a ** 4
43 Tut Tut E1 5b  
  Tower Face
45 The Quarryman E2 5b *** 18
46 Standing Stone E3 5c  
47 The Big Swall E5 6b **  
48 Superlupo E7 6c **  
49 No Maybes E3 6a ** 7
50 Definitely Maybe
-
E2 5c 2
51 Deceptively Groovy E2 5c ** 16
52 The Forgotten
-
E1 5b 7
53 Bobbins Groove E1 5a 7
54 Ebb and Flo
-
VS 4c 15
55 Time tae go VS 4c *  
  Arch Wall
57 Crab Crawl
-
HVS 5a ** 10
58 The Lunge E1 5c * 4
59 Velvets
-
VS 4c  
60 Taustie Wall E3 6a * 3
61 Bleed it Dry E4 6a ** 2
62 Nuckelavee E4 6a *** 4
63 Uberwolfe E6 6b *  
64 Long Hard Winter E3 5c *** 13
65 Ronnie the Axe E5 6a ** 1
66 Mally The Mallet E6 6b *  
67 Mack the Knife E5 6a **  
68 Hajj E5 6a ** 1
69 Summer Pilgrim E4 6a *  
70 Nyook Waa
-
VS 5a 4
71 Sunset Crack HS 4b * 7
72 Orkney Blast E5 6b *  
73 Northern Light E3 6a  
74 The Lang Huddauf
-
VD 5
75 The Langer Huddauf VD * 3
76 The Langer Huddauf Direct Start
-
S 4a  
77 Vision Quest none 5c *  
78 Wee Lum HVS 5a ** 12
79 Lum Crack E2 5c ** 4
  Gardyloo Wall
81 Dragonhead E6 6b *** 1
82 Yellowhammer E7 6c ***  
83 Skullsplitter E2 5c ** 1
84 Freeloader E1 5b ** 2
85 Wander Wall E1 5b * 1
86 Ebb Tide E2 5c * 1
87 The Orkney Sessions E5 6b *  
88 Gardyloo Gold E4 6a *** 4
89 Thing of Dreams E4 6a *** 6
90 Sea of Dreams E2 5c ** 2
91 Dreamcatcher E3 5c **  
92 Dreamweaver E3 5c **  
93 Yesnaby 500 E4 6a **  
94 Dream Tipper E3 6a ***  
95 Home Alone
-
S * 5
96 Watchers Lunge VS 4b * 2
97 Cut and Thrust VS 4b * 2
98 Stolen Property HVS 5b * 3
99 Thrutch VS 5a 2
  The False Stack
101 Moss Ghyll Groove
-
S  
102 Hayfield Skinhead
-
HVS 5a  
103 Video Show
-
S ** 7
104 Wriggle and Grin
-
HVS 5a *  
105 Ironstone Cowboy LH E4 6a *  
106 Ironstone Cowboy RH E4 6a *  
107 Dark Island E3 6a *** 6
108 Summer's End E2 5b *** 17
109 OJRW E1 5a * 2
110 Mist, Rain and Sunshine E1 5b  
111 The Crow's Nest VS 4c ** 11
112 Southside E2 5c ** 2
113 Storming the Bridge E5 6a ***  
114 Ain't No Strange As Folk E2 5b *  
115 Three Wise Idiots E1 5b  
116 Benton 747 E2 5c * 2
117 Variety Show
-
HVS 5a *** 6
118 Double Act HVS 5a  
  Castle of Yesnaby Area
120 Diagonal E1 5b ** 6
121 Howard's End VS 4c 1
122 Howard's Way
-
VS 4c * 8
  Spectators Geo
124 One Winter's Day LH E1 5b  
125 One Winter's Day HS 4b * 1
126 The Blue Baron E2 5b * 5
127 The Loved One
-
E4 5c ** 3
128 New Sensation
-
E3 5c *** 7
129 Guns in the Sky
-
E5 6a *** 4
130 Elegantly Wasted
-
E5 6a ***  
131 Devil Inside
-
E5 6b **  
132 Tiny Daggers
-
E6 6b **  
  The Loose Headland
134 Last o' the Summer
-
VS 4c *  
135 The Castle Escape
-
D  
136 Muckle Thrutch Crack
-
E4 6a **  
137 Mostly Harmless
-
VS 4a  
138 Nemesis E3 5c * 2
  The Quarry - Right-Hand Wall
140 Mr Tim
-
5c 19
141 Mr Chris
-
6a 23
142 High Tide Alternative
-
6a+ 15
143 Unnamed 7a+ 3
144 Splashing Out 7a 10
  The Quarry - Upper Left-Hand Wall
146 Quarryman
-
5c 14
147 Up the Middle
-
6a 12
148 The Stretch
-
6a+ 9
  The Quarry - Lower Left-Hand Wall
150 The Prow
-
4c 20
151 Wet Feet 5c 8
152 Rib Wall 6b * 2
153 Daddy Long Legs 6a 14
154 Sunset Slab 5c 15
155 Olive Oil 6b 4
156 Iron Stone
-
E2 5c *  
157 Secret Pocket
-
E2 5c *  
  Unlocated
159 Mr Joshua 4c *  
160 Culture Katy
-
HVS 5a 3

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