Climbs 34
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 213m a.s.l
Faces SE

Barmouth Slabs © Keri Murphy

Crag features

The nicely positioned LLECHAU'R GARN - aka ''Barmouth Slabs'' - are blessed with very easy access and good belays. The crag has 2 slabby tiers, with the best climbing found on the Lower Slab where a few of the routes are bold at the grade. Beyond the Upper Slab is the much smaller Gorllwyn Slab which has a few obvious lines but can be climbed anywhere at about Diff. The small North Crag is to the right of the slabs and is approached over scree. There is also some good bouldering potential on some of the outcrops above the crag as well as on the north side of the hill.

'New' routes are regularly claimed on these slabs, but the chances of finding virgin rock are pretty slim, particularly as the slabs have been climbed on since at least the early 1960s. What doesn't help matters is that the supposedly definitive CC Meirionnydd guide only lists a selection of climbs on the Lower Slab.

The crag is on access land and there are no climbing restrictions. Unfortunately the ease of access and the large number of easy routes mean that the crag suffers from considerable overuse by centre and other organised groups. At very busy times, it can be quite difficult to find 'free' routes as group leaders tend to selfishly rig whole sections for toproping. Best to get there early, or be patient, although a polite request to climb a specific route usually works too.





















 

Approach notes

As you drive into Barmouth from Dolgellau, the A496 takes a sharp left just before the harbour. On the apex of the bend, there is a road leading off right, signposted 'Bae Abermaw Hotel'. Follow this uphill past the hotel to a parking area on the right about 3/4 mile further on. Park here. Then, on foot, follow the steep gated road opposite the parking area up the hill to the crag; about 500m and 10-15 minutes.

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Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Meirionnydd (2002)
Climbed quite a few of these routes Easter 2011 found the crag easily -there are good solid metal stakes for top rope anchors and terrific views from the base of the crag over the estuary. Great rock can make the climbs easy or hard as you like. Good for family groups with limited gear..Had agreat day!
sajrf123 - 25/Apr/11
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Lower (Main) Slab
2 Trem y Gadair HS 4a 5
3 Slabotomy E1 5a 9
4 Crack 1 S 4a ** 192
5 Xebec E1 5a * 142
6 Crack 2 D * 243
7 Backlash E1 5c 6
8 Zig Zag VD ** 208
9 Sugar Lumps S 14
10 Sunny Delight MS 26
11 Main Slab S 4a ** 200
12 Crack 3 D ** 283
13 Crack 4 D ** 216
14 Crack 5 D 111
  Upper Slab
16 Gregg's Kettle VD 26
17 Overlap Slab VD * 8
18 Cracked Slab
-
D 6
19 Twin Cracks VD * 50
20 Thin Crack HS 4b * 5
21 Rattly Block Climb
-
D 5
22 Wide Crack D 6
23 Wide Crack RH
-
M 6
24 Block Crack
-
D 7
25 Jagged Crack
-
D 7
26 No Cracks MVS 4b * 3
27 Right Crack D 35
28 Upper Tier Slab Girdle HVD 16
29 White wind V5 *** 1
30 White slab V6 ** 5
  North Crag
32 Dream Rodent HVS 5a 3
33 The Jamming Crack S 21
34 Agnes' Pillar Inner VD 7
35 Agnes' Pillar - Outer S 11
36 Brilliant with Biscuits f5 ***  
37 Large Onions V4 ** 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers sgl0jd and Dave Williams