Climbs 221
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 203m a.s.l

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Fiend, still under a Delusion but nearly there... © Fiend

Crag features

A lot of cleaning has been started on the Red Walls with rubbish being picked up, broken glass removed and brambles cleared from the base of the routes. A path has also been cleared along the base of the Empty Quarter Lower Tier. A lot of the old tat has also been replaced. The face between Grooved Wall and Red Wall has also seen a massive clean up opening up what looks like some easier grade routes. A big thanks to all involved with keeping this awesome quarry usable. Others can do there part just by coming and enjoying the vast amount of great routes on offer to keep them clear.

The Red Walls and Cherry Bomb areas are fast drying even in winter. So when Wilton 1 is wet or you need to escape the crowds or your just looking for somewhere different to climb head on over to the sharp unpolished rock of Egerton.

It looks like another crag clean up is to be organised by the BMC early 2016.(Dec 2015)

Approach notes

From the Egerton side, park in the bay opposite the "Rock Fold" sign. There are new houses built where the guidebook suggests you should park. Continue up the hill and over the bridge and find the access path immediately on your right, blocked off with boulders. It is probably better to follow the access as described from Darwen if the crag ever gets busier.

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Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Lancashire Rock (2016)
Lancashire Bouldering (2014)
Lancashire Rock (1999)
Climbed on Red Wall and Cherrybomb area. Both very clean rough rock. the bottom is also clear. Cannot believe I have not been here before, great quarry. thanks to those who have cleaned it up and put in the bolt belays.
sjbrook - 16/Aug/17
July 2015 - Looking green and overgrown, take gloves, strimmer and a stiff brush... Oh and wellies
Stuart Wildman - 31/Jul/15
Overgrown, wet in the bottom and dirty / green routes. Needs a lot of gardening and then traffic to keep stuff in good nick - which I doubt it will get. Can't recommend a visit unfortunately!
JDC - 30/Jul/15
Lots of greenery on small ledges of many of the routes, and bushes at a lot of the bases of the routes. In short, needs a bit of gardening and a tidy up!
The Norris - 18/Jul/13
Aug 2012. Getting a bit overgrown again, and dusty. LAck of traffic seems to be showing, hardly suprisingy considering the crap summer.
bigglesbutcha - 31/Aug/12
aug 29th 2011 overgrown bog with loads slimey sandy walls pictures look far better than it really is .... not gping back there
philb - 29/Aug/11
Eleventh Hour, Guillotine and Phantom Zone climbed this eve. All good and significantly cleaner than earlier today.
Rich Kirby - 12/May/09
Really recommend Esmerelda and the E1 next to it. Both nice routes with no stars.
rpbostock - 12/Aug/08
Nature seems to have taken hold once again - a few of the classic lines are clean (such as Cherry Bomb), but in general its pretty overgrown.
ColinAus - 27/Jul/08
Bit of a Dive, VS routes are half-decent tho
Craigm411 - 26/Mar/07
Egerton's very fine climbing is gradually reappearing and being reappreciated!! Following a clean-up day in May 2004, some areas of the quarry are in considerably better condition. See http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=84761 and http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=92210 for details. Wood Buttress is in particularly good condition and proving popular, as are various mid-grade routes around the quarry including of course the ever-popular Cherry Bomb area. And some good people are keeping cleaning more routes to expose their true quality. So if you like quarried grit climbing you don't have any excuse for avoiding it - visit the quarry, enjoy it's good, accessible, mid-grade routes, and thus help keep it in good condition for others to enjoy.
Fiend - 16/Jul/04
I went there last night and we did Renaissance E5, Satin Sapphire E3, Phantom Zone E3 and Surfin Bird E3. Also this year we have done Third time lucky E3, Stolen goods E4, Lucky Heather E4, Alec trench E5 and Walking on glass E4 all these routes are prety good and there are plenty of other routes to go at. The trouble is some people can't see past their noses, or at least the brambles. A couple of hours work at the clean up, tommorow, requires virtually no effort and would be much appreciated so try and get down there to help made Egerton a veggie free venue.
Geoff Hibbert - 07/May/04
Went to have a gander and decided this "could" be the best in the area (bar houghton) if only it was cleared and people actually climbed there. Watch out when going to the bottom as we got lost and ended up on a golf course.
Neil - 04/Jul/03
Take a brush for harder routes. Cherry Bomb is one of the best VS routes on quarried grit, i.e. it won't fall on you and has great gear. Dizzy the Desert Snake (E1, easy if you're tall) and God Save The Queen (HVS, long and pumpy) are also highly recommended. Take a machete for the descents.
Duncan Irving - 15/May/03
Cherry bomb was hilarious - Jam, or layback - ergo Goliath's Groove Stanage. Watch out for evil brambles on descent.
lee - 31/Oct/02
There are some good routes here, although they are all VS and above. Cherry Bomb is worth doing. Egerton just needs a bit of traffic and it could become a very good venue.
James - 29/Aug/02
Visited the quarry on 14/07/02.No sign that anyone has been there for ages to climb.Why?
Paul Glover - 19/Jul/02
I went to this place to have a look. It is totally overgrown at the moment and the rock hasn\'t seen chalk for a while. Yuck!
GCW - 14/May/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Bridge Area - Blackburn side
2 Colgy
-
HS 4b 1
3 The Arete
-
VS 5b 1
4 Wide Crack
-
VD 2
5 Toots
-
E2 5c  
6 The Nose
-
VS 4c * 1
7 Wiad
-
S 4a 1
8 Hydrophobia
-
HVS 5a  
9 Rabid
-
HVS 5a  
10 No Screws in Skem
-
E1 5b 1
11 Black Dog
-
E1 5c *  
12 The Beauty of Poison
-
E1 5b  
13 Ceremony
-
VS 4c ** 2
14 Green Thoughts
-
HS 4b 1
  Grooved Wall
16 Trumpton
-
S 4a 1
17 Aethelred
-
E2 5b *  
18 Aethelred Groove HS 4b * 2
19 The Creaking Fossil
-
HVS 4c  
20 Letter-box
-
HVS 5b 1
21 Headspin Cleft
-
VS 5b  
22 All in the Mind
-
E2 5b  
23 Vlad the Implayer
-
S 4a 6
24 Walking on Glass
-
E4 6b *  
25 Cutting Edge
-
VS 4c 1
26 Black Arm
-
S 4a 4
27 New Groove
-
HS 4b 3
28 Sparkin' Bush
-
VS 4b * 10
29 Blue Strawberry
-
VD 9
30 Chopper Chimney
-
S 4a 6
31 Guillotine
-
E3 5c *** 8
32 The Cutter
-
VS 4c  
33 That's Life
-
VS 4c *  
34 Shudabindun
-
E1 5b * 10
35 Sham '69
-
VS 4c * 10
36 Big Mouth
-
VS 4c 2
37 Adam's Wall
-
HS 4a 2
38 16 Jugs of Love
-
D 1
39 Open Groove
-
HS 4a 5
40 Lucky Louise
-
HS 4c 5
41 Viagra
-
VS 4c 3
42 Cialis
-
VS 4c 3
43 Open Arete * E2 5b 1
44 Little Wing * E1 5b 1
45 Three Niche Climb * HVS 5a 1
  Red Wall
47 Needle Stick
-
HVS 4c 1
48 Dicktrot II - The Movie
-
E2 5c 7
49 Mumbled Prayer E3 6a ** 13
50 The Eleventh Hour E4 6a ** 5
51 Small Tree Traverse E2 5a ** 2
52 Red Wall Direct E1 5b * 53
53 Esmeralda
-
HVS 5a 32
54 By Hook or by Crook
-
HS 4b 5
55 Variation Finish MVS 4b 2
56 Three Pint Primer
-
VS 4b 2
  Higher Red Wall
58 Snooze you Lose HVS 4c  
59 Why Climb Left?
-
VS 4c  
60 Why Climb Right?
-
VS 4c 4
61 Third Time Lucky
-
E3 5c * 6
62 Dizzy the Desert Snake
-
E1 5b * 21
63 Desert Dust HS 4b 65
64 Centre of Gravity
-
HS 4b 8
65 Malvinas
-
HS 4b * 58
66 Dodger S 4a 45
67 State of Awareness
-
HVS 5a 8
68 Think Light
-
VS 4c 12
69 Wormhole
-
HVS 4c 12
70 Crack VD 9
71 The Razor's Edge
-
HVS 4b  
72 Not Exactly a Classic VS 4c 5
  Cherry Bomb Area
74 Corner Jam VS 4c * 11
75 Nocturnal Crack VS 4c ** 21
76 Jammed Blocks Crack VS 4c  
77 Silk Cut
-
E2 5c 26
78 Satin Sapphire E3 5c ** 15
79 Cherry Bomb VS 4c *** 128
80 Boomerang E8 6c *** 1
Climb name Grade
81 Brightside Revisited
-
E3 6a **  
82 Planet of the Apes
-
HVS 5a 1
83 Whitewater Rafting
-
VS 4b * 40
84 Proper Gander
-
VS 4b 4
85 Red Shift VS 4c 6
86 Renaissance E5 6a *** 25
87 Old Creaky VS 4c * 4
88 Spare Rib VS 4c 2
89 Groovy Mantle Baby E2 5c * 3
90 Battle of the Bulge
-
HVS 5b * 10
91 Short Sharp Shock E2 5c *  
92 Edgelet
-
E1 5c * 1
  Empty Quarter - Upper Tier
94 Spreadeagle
-
S 4a 4
95 Lost in Egerton
-
VS 4c 1
96 Dribbles
-
HVS 5b 1
97 Cancer
-
VS 4c  
98 Step into the Groove
-
E2 5c *  
  Phantom Wall
100 Phantom Zone Left-hand
-
E3 5c ***  
101 Phantom Zone
-
E2 5c ** 1
102 Tasty
-
E4 6b  
103 Return of the Native
-
E1 5c  
  Streaked Wall
105 Street Legal
-
E1 5c  
106 Double of Quits
-
HVS 5b  
107 Vulture
-
HVS 5a  
  Empty Quarter - Lower Tier
109 Monkey Trick
-
VS 5a 4
110 Organ Grinder
-
HVS 5b  
111 Empty Arete
-
HVS 5a  
112 Space Between my Ears
-
HS 4a 5
113 Swamp Dog
-
S 4a * 6
114 Alvin's Wild West Rodeo Show
-
S 4a 4
115 Precious Cargo
-
E1 5b **  
116 Kamikaze Coconut HS 4b * 10
117 Lazy Bones
-
S 4a 3
118 Bone Shaker
-
VS 4c 1
119 Just for the Finger Jam
-
S 4a 1
120 Crack and Jugs HS 4b ** 2
  Cholera Area
122 Cholera
-
HVS 5a ** 4
123 Cracker
-
HVS 5a  
124 Summer Lightning
-
E4 6b **  
125 Alchemy
-
VS 4c  
126 The Open Book
-
E1 5b * 3
  Lonely Wall
128 Lucky Heather
-
E4 5c **  
129 Welcome to the Jungle
-
E4 5c **  
130 Running on Empty
-
E5 6a **  
131 Nasty Little Lonely
-
HVS 4b  
132 Mental Mantel
-
E2 5b *  
133 The Water Margin
-
HVS 5a * 2
134 Surfin' Bird
-
E3 5b * 2
135 Changing of the Guards
-
E3 5c *  
136 Long Distance Runner
-
E3 5c *  
137 Initiation
-
E2 5c * 1
  Hidden Wall
139 Bombing Basil
-
E1 5b  
  Red Prow
141 Red Prow Original
-
VS 4b  
142 Stringbiff
-
VS 4c  
143 The Field of Dreams VS 5a * 2
144 Acme Surplus Overhang
-
E2 5a 1
145 Rhythm of the Heat
-
E1 5c  
146 Omelette
-
VS 4c  
147 Falling off the Edge of the World
-
E3 5c **  
148 Gnat Attack
-
VS 4c 2
149 Roadrunner Pinnacle
-
HVS 4c *  
150 Don't Stop Believing E2 5c *  
151 Chalk Lightning Crack E2 5b ** 7
152 Nobody Wept for Alec Trench E5 6a *** 7
153 Ice Cool Acid Test E4 6a ** 5
154 White Out HS 4b * 8
155 Specific Gravity
-
E3 5c  
  Alcove Wall
157 Dust at Dusk
-
S 4a 1
158 Vortex E8 6c **  
159 Each Way Nudger
-
E3 6b *  
Climb name Grade
  The Amphitheatre
161 Brittle-Fingers
-
E1 5b  
162 Fathomathon
-
E2 5b  
163 Bob Bandits
-
HVS 5b  
164 Amphitheatre Direct
-
VS 4c **  
165 Life During Wartime
-
HVS 5b  
166 Peace Dividend
-
VS 4c **  
167 Amphitheatre Terrace
-
VD 1
168 Saffron
-
E1 5b  
169 Spindrift
-
E1 4c  
170 Windchill
-
HS 4b 1
171 Spin
-
VS 4b **  
172 Zoot Chute
-
VS 4b ** 15
173 The Reaper
-
E6 6c *** 1
  Wood Buttress Area
175 I Shot Jason King E5 6a ** 4
176 Confusion
-
E3 5c  
177 Lubalin
-
E2 5b * 9
178 Ten Minutes Before the Worm VS 4c * 9
179 Delusion E3 6a *  
180 God Save the Queen HVS 5a * 65
181 Gallows Pole HVS 5a ** 65
182 Niff-Niff the Guinea Pig E2 5b 9
183 Naff-Naff (The Route)
-
E2 5b 1
184 Bag of Bones
-
HVS 4c  
185 The Disappearing Chip Buttie Traverse E1 5b ** 5
186 Wednesday Corner VS 4b * 9
187 One Minute to Midnight
-
E3 5c *  
188 Inspidity VS 4b * 5
189 Field of Screams
-
E2 5b  
190 Dickie's Meadow HS 4b * 6
191 Temptation
-
E2 6b  
192 Money Shot E5 6b ** 1
193 The Lamb Lies Down on Broadway
-
E4 6a  
194 Dicktrot E1 5c 1
195 Shaky Flakes
-
S 4a 1
196 Neighbourhood Threat
-
HVS 5a  
197 Gallows Humour E4 5c  
  Bridge Area - Bolton side
199 Dipper
-
E2 5c  
200 Natural Victim
-
VS 4c  
201 Ludwig
-
S 4a 1
202 Feeding the Rat
-
HVS 5a *  
203 Rat Trap
-
S * 1
204 Just Out
-
S 4a * 1
205 Twilight Crack
-
S 4a 3
206 Bridge Crack
-
VS 5a * 1
207 Cleft Climb
-
VS 4c  
208 Markova
-
S 4a 1
209 Thin Crack
-
HS 4b 1
210 Broken Toe
-
HVS 5a 1
211 Broken Jokes f7B **  
212 Beneath the Bridge
-
f5 1
213 Spandex
-
f6A 1
214 Broken Toe
-
f4 1
215 Tiny Teets
-
f6C * 1
216 Hit the Buzzer
-
f6B * 1
217 The Nose
-
f5 1
218 Contorted Filbert f6A 1
219 Dribbles f4+ 1
220 Competition Horror Show f6B+ 1
221 Dingle f5 1
222 Bringing the Bear f6A+ 1
  The Pinnacle
224 Baby Bouncer
-
f6A *  
225 Gold Rush
-
f6A **  
226 Twister
-
f3  
227 Jugula VS 5a * 1
228 Short Wall
-
VS 4c *  
229 Swastika Wall
-
HVS 5b *  
230 Faithhealer
-
E3 6a **  
231 Like a Rolling Stone E3 5c * 1
232 Natural Grit
-
E2 5b  
233 Pile of Grit
-
VD  
234 Stepped Arete
-
VD  
235 Left Cheek VS 5a * 1
236 Creature from the Black Lagoon
-
VS 5a **  
237 New Order VD * 1
238 Childs Play
-
D  
239 Veeline
-
VD  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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