Climbs 212
Rocktype Grit (quarried)

Fiend, still under a Delusion but nearly there... © Fiend

Crag features

A lot of cleaning has been started on the Red Walls with rubbish being picked up, broken glass removed and brambles cleared from the base of the routes. A path has also been cleared along the base of the Empty Quarter Lower Tier. A lot of the old tat has also been replaced. The face between Grooved Wall and Red Wall has also seen a massive clean up opening up what looks like some easier grade routes. A big thanks to all involved with keeping this awesome quarry usable. Others can do there part just by coming and enjoying the vast amount of great routes on offer to keep them clear.

The Red Walls and Cherry Bomb areas are fast drying even in winter. So when Wilton 1 is wet or you need to escape the crowds or your just looking for somewhere different to climb head on over to the sharp unpolished rock of Egerton.

It looks like another crag clean up is to be organised by the BMC early 2016.(Dec 2015)

Approach notes

From the Egerton side, park in the bay opposite the "Rock Fold" sign. There are new houses built where the guidebook suggests you should park. Continue up the hill and over the bridge and find the access path immediately on your right, blocked off with boulders. It is probably better to follow the access as described from Darwen if the crag ever gets busier.

Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Lancashire Rock (2016)
Lancashire Bouldering (2014)
Lancashire Rock (1999)
Climbed on Red Wall and Cherrybomb area. Both very clean rough rock. the bottom is also clear. Cannot believe I have not been here before, great quarry. thanks to those who have cleaned it up and put in the bolt belays.
sjbrook - 16/Aug/17
July 2015 - Looking green and overgrown, take gloves, strimmer and a stiff brush... Oh and wellies
Stuart Wildman - 31/Jul/15
Overgrown, wet in the bottom and dirty / green routes. Needs a lot of gardening and then traffic to keep stuff in good nick - which I doubt it will get. Can't recommend a visit unfortunately!
JDC - 30/Jul/15
Lots of greenery on small ledges of many of the routes, and bushes at a lot of the bases of the routes. In short, needs a bit of gardening and a tidy up!
The Norris - 18/Jul/13
Aug 2012. Getting a bit overgrown again, and dusty. LAck of traffic seems to be showing, hardly suprisingy considering the crap summer.
bigglesbutcha - 31/Aug/12
aug 29th 2011 overgrown bog with loads slimey sandy walls pictures look far better than it really is .... not gping back there
philb - 29/Aug/11
Eleventh Hour, Guillotine and Phantom Zone climbed this eve. All good and significantly cleaner than earlier today.
Rich Kirby - 12/May/09
Really recommend Esmerelda and the E1 next to it. Both nice routes with no stars.
rpbostock - 12/Aug/08
Nature seems to have taken hold once again - a few of the classic lines are clean (such as Cherry Bomb), but in general its pretty overgrown.
ColinAus - 27/Jul/08
Bit of a Dive, VS routes are half-decent tho
Craigm411 - 26/Mar/07
Egerton's very fine climbing is gradually reappearing and being reappreciated!! Following a clean-up day in May 2004, some areas of the quarry are in considerably better condition. See http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=84761 and http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=92210 for details. Wood Buttress is in particularly good condition and proving popular, as are various mid-grade routes around the quarry including of course the ever-popular Cherry Bomb area. And some good people are keeping cleaning more routes to expose their true quality. So if you like quarried grit climbing you don't have any excuse for avoiding it - visit the quarry, enjoy it's good, accessible, mid-grade routes, and thus help keep it in good condition for others to enjoy.
Fiend - 16/Jul/04
I went there last night and we did Renaissance E5, Satin Sapphire E3, Phantom Zone E3 and Surfin Bird E3. Also this year we have done Third time lucky E3, Stolen goods E4, Lucky Heather E4, Alec trench E5 and Walking on glass E4 all these routes are prety good and there are plenty of other routes to go at. The trouble is some people can't see past their noses, or at least the brambles. A couple of hours work at the clean up, tommorow, requires virtually no effort and would be much appreciated so try and get down there to help made Egerton a veggie free venue.
Geoff Hibbert - 07/May/04
Went to have a gander and decided this "could" be the best in the area (bar houghton) if only it was cleared and people actually climbed there. Watch out when going to the bottom as we got lost and ended up on a golf course.
Neil - 04/Jul/03
Take a brush for harder routes. Cherry Bomb is one of the best VS routes on quarried grit, i.e. it won't fall on you and has great gear. Dizzy the Desert Snake (E1, easy if you're tall) and God Save The Queen (HVS, long and pumpy) are also highly recommended. Take a machete for the descents.
Duncan Irving - 15/May/03
Cherry bomb was hilarious - Jam, or layback - ergo Goliath's Groove Stanage. Watch out for evil brambles on descent.
lee - 31/Oct/02
There are some good routes here, although they are all VS and above. Cherry Bomb is worth doing. Egerton just needs a bit of traffic and it could become a very good venue.
James - 29/Aug/02
Visited the quarry on 14/07/02.No sign that anyone has been there for ages to climb.Why?
Paul Glover - 19/Jul/02
I went to this place to have a look. It is totally overgrown at the moment and the rock hasn\'t seen chalk for a while. Yuck!
GCW - 14/May/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Bridge Area - Blackburn side
2 Colgy
-
HS 4b 1
3 The Arete
-
VS 5b  
4 Wide Crack
-
VD 3
5 Toots
-
E2 5c  
6 The Nose
-
VS 4c * 1
7 Wiad
-
S 4a 1
8 Hydrophobia
-
HVS 5a  
9 Rabid
-
HVS 5a  
10 No Screws in Skem
-
E1 5b 1
11 Black Dog
-
E1 5c *  
12 The Beauty of Poison
-
E1 5b  
13 Ceremony
-
VS 4c ** 2
14 Green Thoughts
-
HS 4b 1
  Grooved Wall
16 Trumpton
-
S 4a 1
17 Aethelred
-
E2 5b *  
18 Aethelred Groove HS 4b * 2
19 The Creaking Fossil
-
HVS 4c  
20 Letter-box
-
HVS 5b 1
21 Headspin Cleft
-
VS 5b  
22 All in the Mind
-
E2 5b  
23 Vlad the Implayer
-
S 4a 6
24 Walking on Glass
-
E4 6b *  
25 Cutting Edge
-
VS 4c 1
26 Black Arm
-
S 4a 4
27 New Groove
-
HS 4b 3
28 Sparkin' Bush
-
VS 4b * 7
29 Blue Strawberry
-
VD 8
30 Chopper Chimney
-
S 4a 6
31 Guillotine
-
E3 5c *** 8
32 The Cutter
-
VS 4c  
33 That's Life
-
VS 4c *  
34 Shudabindun
-
E1 5b * 8
35 Sham '69
-
VS 4c * 10
36 Big Mouth
-
VS 4c 2
37 Adam's Wall
-
HS 4a 1
  Red Wall
39 Needle Stick
-
HVS 4c 1
40 Dicktrot II - The Movie
-
E2 5c 6
41 Mumbled Prayer E3 6a ** 4
42 The Eleventh Hour E4 6a ** 4
43 Red Wall Direct E1 5b * 35
44 Esmeralda
-
HVS 5a 24
45 By Hook or by Crook
-
HS 4b 5
46 Variation Finish MVS 4b 2
47 Three Pint Primer
-
VS 4b 2
  Higher Red Wall
49 Snooze you Lose HVS 4c  
50 Why Climb Left?
-
VS 4c  
51 Why Climb Right?
-
VS 4c 2
52 Third Time Lucky
-
E3 5c * 6
53 Dizzy the Desert Snake
-
E1 5b * 23
54 Desert Dust HS 4b 38
55 Centre of Gravity
-
HS 4b 5
56 Malvinas
-
HS 4b * 36
57 Dodger S 4a 32
58 State of Awareness
-
HVS 5a 3
59 Think Light
-
VS 4c 4
60 Wormhole
-
HVS 4c 7
61 Crack VD 8
62 The Razor's Edge
-
HVS 4b  
63 Not Exactly a Classic VS 4c 3
  Cherry Bomb Area
65 Corner Jam VS 4c * 3
66 Nocturnal Crack VS 4c ** 13
67 Jammed Blocks Crack VS 4c  
68 Silk Cut
-
E2 5c 25
69 Satin Sapphire E3 5c ** 8
70 Cherry Bomb VS 4c *** 122
71 Boomerang E8 6c ***  
72 Brightside Revisited
-
E3 6a **  
73 Planet of the Apes
-
HVS 5a  
74 Whitewater Rafting
-
VS 4b * 29
75 Proper Gander
-
VS 4b 3
76 Red Shift VS 4c 6
77 Renaissance E5 6a *** 19
78 Old Creaky VS 4c * 3
79 Spare Rib VS 4c 1
80 Groovy Mantle Baby E2 5c * 2
81 Battle of the Bulge
-
HVS 5b * 7
82 Short Sharp Shock E2 5c *  
83 Edgelet
-
E1 5c *  
  Empty Quarter - Upper Tier
85 Spreadeagle
-
S 4a 3
86 Lost in Egerton
-
VS 4c  
87 Dribbles
-
HVS 5b  
88 Cancer
-
VS 4c  
89 Step into the Groove
-
E2 5c *  
  Phantom Wall
91 Phantom Zone Left-hand
-
E3 5c ***  
92 Phantom Zone
-
E2 5c ** 1
93 Tasty
-
E4 6b  
94 Return of the Native
-
E1 5c  
  Streaked Wall
96 Street Legal
-
E1 5c  
97 Double of Quits
-
HVS 5b  
98 Vulture
-
HVS 5a  
  Empty Quarter - Lower Tier
100 Monkey Trick
-
VS 5a 4
101 Organ Grinder
-
HVS 5b  
102 Empty Arete
-
HVS 5a  
103 Space Between my Ears
-
HS 4a 3
104 Swamp Dog
-
S 4a * 7
105 Alvin's Wild West Rodeo Show
-
S 4a 3
106 Precious Cargo
-
E1 5b **  
107 Kamikaze Coconut HS 4b * 10
108 Lazy Bones
-
S 4a 3
109 Bone Shaker
-
VS 4c 1
110 Just for the Finger Jam
-
S 4a 1
111 Crack and Jugs HS 4b ** 2
  Cholera Area
113 Cholera
-
HVS 5a ** 4
114 Cracker
-
HVS 5a  
115 Summer Lightning
-
E4 6b **  
116 Alchemy
-
VS 4c  
117 The Open Book
-
E1 5b * 3
  Lonely Wall
119 Lucky Heather
-
E4 5c **  
120 Welcome to the Jungle
-
E4 5c **  
121 Running on Empty
-
E5 6a **  
122 Nasty Little Lonely
-
HVS 4b  
123 Mental Mantel
-
E2 5b *  
124 The Water Margin
-
HVS 5a * 2
125 Surfin' Bird
-
E3 5b * 2
126 Changing of the Guards
-
E3 5c *  
127 Long Distance Runner
-
E3 5c *  
128 Initiation
-
E2 5c * 1
  Hidden Wall
130 Bombing Basil
-
E1 5b  
  Red Prow
132 Red Prow Original
-
VS 4b  
133 Stringbiff
-
VS 4c  
134 The Field of Dreams VS 5a * 2
135 Acme Surplus Overhang
-
E2 5a 1
136 Rhythm of the Heat
-
E1 5c  
137 Omelette
-
VS 4c  
138 Falling off the Edge of the World
-
E3 5c **  
139 Gnat Attack
-
VS 4c 2
140 Roadrunner Pinnacle
-
HVS 4c *  
141 Don't Stop Believing E2 5c *  
142 Chalk Lightning Crack E2 5b ** 6
143 Nobody Wept for Alec Trench E5 6a *** 11
144 Ice Cool Acid Test E4 6a ** 8
145 White Out HS 4b * 10
146 Specific Gravity
-
E3 5c  
  Alcove Wall
148 Dust at Dusk
-
S 4a 1
149 Vortex E8 6c **  
150 Each Way Nudger
-
E3 6b *  
  The Amphitheatre
152 Brittle-Fingers
-
E1 5b  
153 Fathomathon
-
E2 5b  
154 Bob Bandits
-
HVS 5b  
155 Amphitheatre Direct
-
VS 4c **  
156 Life During Wartime
-
HVS 5b  
157 Peace Dividend
-
VS 4c **  
158 Amphitheatre Terrace
-
VD 1
159 Saffron
-
E1 5b  
160 Spindrift
-
E1 4c  
161 Windchill
-
HS 4b 1
162 Spin
-
VS 4b **  
163 Zoot Chute
-
VS 4b ** 14
164 The Reaper
-
E6 6c *** 1
  Wood Buttress Area
166 I Shot Jason King E5 6a ** 4
167 Confusion
-
E3 5c  
168 Lubalin
-
E2 5b * 9
169 Ten Minutes Before the Worm VS 4c * 8
170 Delusion E3 6a *  
171 God Save the Queen HVS 5a * 62
172 Gallows Pole HVS 5a ** 55
173 Niff-Niff the Guinea Pig E2 5b 9
174 Naff-Naff (The Route)
-
E2 5b 1
175 Bag of Bones
-
HVS 4c  
176 The Disappearing Chip Buttie Traverse E1 5b ** 5
177 Wednesday Corner VS 4b * 9
178 One Minute to Midnight
-
E3 5c *  
179 Inspidity VS 4b * 4
180 Field of Screams
-
E2 5b  
181 Dickie's Meadow HS 4b * 3
182 Temptation
-
E2 6b  
183 Money Shot E5 6b ** 1
184 The Lamb Lies Down on Broadway
-
E4 6a  
185 Dicktrot E1 5c 1
186 Shaky Flakes
-
S 4a 1
187 Neighbourhood Threat
-
HVS 5a  
188 Gallows Humour E4 5c  
  Bridge Area - Bolton side
190 Dipper
-
E2 5c  
191 Natural Victim
-
VS 4c  
192 Ludwig
-
S 4a 1
193 Feeding the Rat
-
HVS 5a *  
194 Rat Trap
-
S * 1
195 Just Out
-
S 4a * 1
196 Twilight Crack
-
S 4a 3
197 Bridge Crack
-
VS 5a * 1
198 Cleft Climb
-
VS 4c  
199 Markova
-
S 4a 1
200 Thin Crack
-
HS 4b 1
201 Broken Toe
-
HVS 5a 1
202 Broken Jokes f7B **  
203 Beneath the Bridge
-
f5 1
204 Spandex
-
f6A 1
205 Broken Toe
-
f4 1
206 Tiny Teets
-
f6C * 1
207 Hit the Buzzer
-
f6B * 1
208 The Nose
-
f5 1
209 Contorted Filbert f6A 1
210 Dribbles f4+ 1
211 Competition Horror Show f6B+ 1
212 Dingle f5 1
213 Bringing the Bear f6A+ 1
  The Pinnacle
215 Baby Bouncer
-
f6A *  
216 Gold Rush
-
f6A **  
217 Twister
-
f3  
218 Jugula VS 5a * 1
219 Short Wall
-
VS 4c *  
220 Swastika Wall
-
HVS 5b *  
221 Faithhealer
-
E3 6a **  
222 Like a Rolling Stone E3 5c * 1
223 Natural Grit
-
E2 5b  
224 Pile of Grit
-
VD  
225 Stepped Arete
-
VD  
226 Left Cheek VS 5a * 1
227 Creature from the Black Lagoon
-
VS 5a **  
228 New Order VD * 1
229 Childs Play
-
D  
230 Veeline
-
VD  

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