Climbs 193
Rocktype Grit (quarried)

Fiend, still under a Delusion but nearly there... © Fiend

Crag features

A lot of cleaning has been started on the Red Walls with rubbish being picked up, broken glass removed and brambles cleared from the base of the routes. A path has also been cleared along the base of the Empty Quarter Lower Tier. A lot of the old tat has also been replaced. The face between Grooved Wall and Red Wall has also seen a massive clean up opening up what looks like some easier grade routes. A big thanks to all involved with keeping this awesome quarry usable. Others can do there part just by coming and enjoying the vast amount of great routes on offer to keep them clear.

The Red Walls and Cherry Bomb areas are fast drying even in winter. So when Wilton 1 is wet or you need to escape the crowds or your just looking for somewhere different to climb head on over to the sharp unpolished rock of Egerton.

It looks like another crag clean up is to be organised by the BMC early 2016.(Dec 2015)

Approach notes

From the Egerton side, park in the bay opposite the "Rock Fold" sign. There are new houses built where the guidebook suggests you should park. Continue up the hill and over the bridge and find the access path immediately on your right, blocked off with boulders. It is probably better to follow the access as described from Darwen if the crag ever gets busier.

Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Lancashire Rock (2016)
Lancashire Bouldering (2014)
Lancashire Rock (1999)
July 2015 - Looking green and overgrown, take gloves, strimmer and a stiff brush... Oh and wellies
Stuart Wildman - 31/Jul/15
Overgrown, wet in the bottom and dirty / green routes. Needs a lot of gardening and then traffic to keep stuff in good nick - which I doubt it will get. Can't recommend a visit unfortunately!
JDC - 30/Jul/15
Lots of greenery on small ledges of many of the routes, and bushes at a lot of the bases of the routes. In short, needs a bit of gardening and a tidy up!
The Norris - 18/Jul/13
Aug 2012. Getting a bit overgrown again, and dusty. LAck of traffic seems to be showing, hardly suprisingy considering the crap summer.
bigglesbutcha - 31/Aug/12
aug 29th 2011 overgrown bog with loads slimey sandy walls pictures look far better than it really is .... not gping back there
philb - 29/Aug/11
Eleventh Hour, Guillotine and Phantom Zone climbed this eve. All good and significantly cleaner than earlier today.
Rich Kirby - 12/May/09
Really recommend Esmerelda and the E1 next to it. Both nice routes with no stars.
rpbostock - 12/Aug/08
Nature seems to have taken hold once again - a few of the classic lines are clean (such as Cherry Bomb), but in general its pretty overgrown.
ColinAus - 27/Jul/08
Bit of a Dive, VS routes are half-decent tho
Craigm411 - 26/Mar/07
Egerton's very fine climbing is gradually reappearing and being reappreciated!! Following a clean-up day in May 2004, some areas of the quarry are in considerably better condition. Seehttp://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=84761 andhttp://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=92210 for details. Wood Buttress is in particularly good condition and proving popular, as are various mid-grade routes around the quarry including of course the ever-popular Cherry Bomb area. And some good people are keeping cleaning more routes to expose their true quality. So if you like quarried grit climbing you don't have any excuse for avoiding it - visit the quarry, enjoy it's good, accessible, mid-grade routes, and thus help keep it in good condition for others to enjoy.
Fiend - 16/Jul/04
I went there last night and we did Renaissance E5, Satin Sapphire E3, Phantom Zone E3 and Surfin Bird E3. Also this year we have done Third time lucky E3, Stolen goods E4, Lucky Heather E4, Alec trench E5 and Walking on glass E4 all these routes are prety good and there are plenty of other routes to go at. The trouble is some people can't see past their noses, or at least the brambles. A couple of hours work at the clean up, tommorow, requires virtually no effort and would be much appreciated so try and get down there to help made Egerton a veggie free venue.
Geoff Hibbert - 07/May/04
Went to have a gander and decided this "could" be the best in the area (bar houghton) if only it was cleared and people actually climbed there. Watch out when going to the bottom as we got lost and ended up on a golf course.
Neil - 04/Jul/03
Take a brush for harder routes. Cherry Bomb is one of the best VS routes on quarried grit, i.e. it won't fall on you and has great gear. Dizzy the Desert Snake (E1, easy if you're tall) and God Save The Queen (HVS, long and pumpy) are also highly recommended. Take a machete for the descents.
Duncan Irving - 15/May/03
Cherry bomb was hilarious - Jam, or layback - ergo Goliath's Groove Stanage. Watch out for evil brambles on descent.
lee - 31/Oct/02
There are some good routes here, although they are all VS and above. Cherry Bomb is worth doing. Egerton just needs a bit of traffic and it could become a very good venue.
James - 29/Aug/02
Visited the quarry on 14/07/02.No sign that anyone has been there for ages to climb.Why?
Paul Glover - 19/Jul/02
I went to this place to have a look. It is totally overgrown at the moment and the rock hasn\'t seen chalk for a while. Yuck!
GCW - 14/May/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Bridge Area - Blackburn side 
2Colgy
-
HS 4b 1
3The Arete
-
VS 5b  
4Wide Crack
-
VD 3
5Toots
-
E2 5c  
6The Nose
-
VS 4c *1
7Wiad
-
S 4a 1
8Hydrophobia
-
HVS 5a  
9Rabid
-
HVS 5a  
10No Screws in Skem
-
E1 5b 1
11Black Dog
-
E1 5c * 
12The Beauty of Poison
-
E1 5b  
13Ceremony
-
VS 4c **2
14Green Thoughts
-
HS 4b 1
 Grooved Wall 
16Trumpton
-
S 4a 1
17Aethelred
-
E2 5b * 
18Aethelred GrooveHS 4b *2
19The Creaking Fossil
-
HVS 4c  
20Letter-box
-
HVS 5b  
21Headspin Cleft
-
VS 5b  
22All in the Mind
-
E2 5b  
23Vlad the Implayer
-
S 4a 6
24Walking on Glass
-
E4 6b * 
25Cutting Edge
-
VS 4c 1
26Black Arm
-
S 4a 4
27New Groove
-
HS 4b 3
28Sparkin' Bush
-
VS 4b *5
29Blue Strawberry
-
VD 8
30Chopper Chimney
-
S 4a 6
31Guillotine
-
E3 5c ***3
32The Cutter
-
VS 4c  
33That's Life
-
VS 4c * 
34Shudabindun
-
E1 5b *4
35Sham '69
-
VS 4c *3
36Big Mouth
-
VS 4c 1
37Adam's Wall
-
HS 4a 1
 Red Wall 
39Needle Stick
-
HVS 4c 1
40Dicktrot II - The Movie
-
E2 5c 3
41Mumbled Prayer
-
E3 6a *4
42The Eleventh HourE4 6a **4
43Red Wall DirectE1 5b *36
44Esmeralda
-
HVS 5a 25
45By Hook or by Crook
-
HS 4b 5
46Variation FinishMVS 4b 2
47Three Pint Primer
-
VS 4b 2
 Higher Red Wall 
49Snooze you LoseHVS 4c  
50Why Climb Left?
-
VS 4c  
51Why Climb Right?
-
VS 4c 2
52Third Time Lucky
-
E3 5c *4
53Dizzy the Desert Snake
-
E1 5b *17
54Desert DustHS 4b 27
55Centre of Gravity
-
HS 4b 5
56Malvinas
-
HS 4b *24
57DodgerS 4a 23
58State of Awareness
-
HVS 5a 3
59Think Light
-
VS 4c 4
60Wormhole
-
HVS 4c 7
61CrackVD 8
62The Razor's Edge
-
HVS 4b  
63Not Exactly a ClassicVS 4c 1
 Cherry Bomb Area 
65Corner JamVS 4c *3
66Nocturnal CrackVS 4c **3
67Jammed Blocks CrackVS 4c  
68Silk Cut
-
E2 5c 23
69Satin SapphireE3 5c ***7
70Cherry Bomb
-
VS 4c ***110
71Brightside Revisited
-
E3 6a ** 
72Planet of the Apes
-
HVS 5a  
73Whitewater Rafting
-
VS 4b *24
74Proper Gander
-
VS 4b 3
75Red ShiftVS 4c 6
76RenaissanceE5 6a ***14
77Old CreakyVS 4c *2
78Spare RibVS 4c 1
79Groovy Mantle BabyE2 5c *1
80Battle of the Bulge
-
HVS 5b *3
81Short Sharp ShockE2 5c * 
82Edgelet
-
E1 5c * 
 Empty Quarter - Upper Tier 
84Spreadeagle
-
S 4a 3
85Lost in Egerton
-
VS 4c  
86Dribbles
-
HVS 5b  
87Cancer
-
VS 4c  
88Step into the Groove
-
E2 5c * 
 Phantom Wall 
90Phantom Zone Left-hand
-
E3 5c *** 
91Phantom Zone
-
E2 5c **1
92Tasty
-
E4 6b  
93Return of the Native
-
E1 5c  
 Streaked Wall 
95Street Legal
-
E1 5c  
96Double of Quits
-
HVS 5b  
97Vulture
-
HVS 5a  
 Empty Quarter - Lower Tier 
99Monkey Trick
-
VS 5a 4
100Organ Grinder
-
HVS 5b  
101Empty Arete
-
HVS 5a  
102Space Between my Ears
-
HS 4a 1
103Swamp Dog
-
S 4a *4
104Alvin's Wild West Rodeo Show
-
S 4a 3
105Precious Cargo
-
E1 5b ** 
106Kamikaze CoconutHS 4b *7
107Lazy Bones
-
S 4a 3
108Bone Shaker
-
VS 4c 1
109Just for the Finger Jam
-
S 4a 1
 Cholera Area 
111Cholera
-
HVS 5a **4
112Cracker
-
HVS 5a  
113Summer Lightning
-
E4 6b ** 
114Alchemy
-
VS 4c  
115The Open Book
-
E1 5b *3
 Lonely Wall 
117Lucky Heather
-
E4 5c ** 
118Welcome to the Jungle
-
E4 5c ** 
119Running on Empty
-
E5 6a ** 
120Nasty Little Lonely
-
HVS 4b  
121Mental Mantel
-
E2 5b * 
122The Water Margin
-
HVS 5a *2
123Surfin' Bird
-
E3 5b *2
124Changing of the Guards
-
E3 5c * 
125Long Distance Runner
-
E3 5c * 
126Initiation
-
E2 5c *1
 Hidden Wall 
128Bombing Basil
-
E1 5b  
 Red Prow 
130Red Prow Original
-
VS 4b  
131Stringbiff
-
VS 4c  
132The Field of DreamsVS 5a 2
133Acme Surplus Overhang
-
E2 5a 1
134Rhythm of the Heat
-
E1 5c  
135Omelette
-
VS 4c  
136Falling off the Edge of the World
-
E3 5c ** 
137Gnat Attack
-
VS 4c 2
138Roadrunner Pinnacle
-
HVS 4c * 
139Don't Stop Believing
-
E2 5c * 
140Chalk Lightning Crack
-
E2 5b **7
141Nobody Wept for Alec TrenchE5 6a ***6
142Ice Cool Acid Test
-
E4 6a ***4
143White OutHS 4b **5
144Specific Gravity
-
E3 5c  
 Alcove Wall 
146Dust at Dusk
-
S 4a 1
147Vortex
-
E8 6c ** 
148Each Way Nudger
-
E3 6b * 
 The Amphitheatre 
150Brittle-Fingers
-
E1 5b  
151Fathomathon
-
E2 5b  
152Bob Bandits
-
HVS 5b  
153Amphitheatre Direct
-
VS 4c ** 
154Life During Wartime
-
HVS 5b  
155Peace Dividend
-
VS 4c ** 
156Amphitheatre Terrace
-
VD 1
157Saffron
-
E1 5b  
158Spindrift
-
E1 4c  
159Windchill
-
HS 4b 1
160Spin
-
VS 4b ** 
161Zoot Chute
-
VS 4b **13
162The Reaper
-
E6 6c ***1
 Wood Buttress Area 
164I Shot Jason KingE5 6a **4
165Confusion
-
E3 5c  
166Lubalin
-
E2 5b *6
167Ten Minutes Before the WormVS 4c *7
168DelusionE3 6a * 
169God Save the QueenHVS 5a *56
170Gallows PoleHVS 5a **55
171Niff-Niff the Guinea PigE2 5b 5
172Naff-Naff (The Route)
-
E2 5b 1
173Bag of Bones
-
HVS 4c  
174The Disappearing Chip Buttie TraverseE1 5b **6
175Wednesday CornerVS 4b *9
176One Minute to Midnight
-
E3 5c * 
177InspidityVS 4c *4
178Field of Screams
-
E2 5b  
179Dickie's MeadowHS 4b *3
180Temptation
-
E2 6b  
181Money ShotE5 6b **1
182The Lamb Lies Down on Broadway
-
E4 6a  
183DicktrotE1 5c 1
184Shaky Flakes
-
S 4a 1
185Neighbourhood Threat
-
HVS 5a  
186Gallows Humour *E4 5c  
 Bridge Area - Bolton side 
188Dipper
-
E2 5c  
189Natural Victim
-
VS 4c  
190Ludwig
-
S 4a 1
191Feeding the Rat
-
HVS 5a * 
192Rat Trap
-
S *1
193Just Out
-
S 4a *1
194Twilight Crack
-
S 4a 3
195Bridge Crack
-
VS 5a *1
196Cleft Climb
-
VS 4c  
197Markova
-
S 4a 1
198Thin Crack
-
HS 4b 1
199Broken Toe
-
HVS 5a 1
200Broken Jokesf7B ** 
201Beneath the Bridge
-
f5 1
202Spandex
-
f6A 1
203Broken Toe
-
f4 1
204Tiny Teets
-
f6C *1
205Hit the Buzzer
-
f6B *1
206The Nose
-
f5 1
207Jugula *VS 5a *1
208Like a Rolling Stone *E3 5c *1
209New Order *VD *1
210Left Cheek *VS 5a *1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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